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Mammoth 2.50-Inch Front Leveling Kit (04-14 2WD F-150; 04-08 4WD F-150)

Item T527670
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Ship to: Ashburn - 20149
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      Product Videos

      Hey, guys. It's Sara with americantrucks.com, and today we have a review and install of the Mammoth 2.5-Inch Front Leveling Kit, fitting your '04 to '14 two-wheel-drive and '04 to '08 four-wheel-drive F150. This is perfect for the F150 owner who wants one of the simplest and most budget-friendly ways to give their truck a more level appearance and make some more room for wheels and tires. This kit provides 2.5 inches of front lift, evening out that factory rake and making some more room for wheels and tires. Now, I did wanna point out the spacers themselves measure in at just under 2 inches. You'll get that extra half-inch of lift from the change in suspension geometry achieved by installing this kit. Also, stock tire sizes may vary. Stock on our truck is a 31 which is what you will see in this video. And with this kit installed the manufacturer notes you can fit up to a 33-inch tire comfortably. Now, just for reference, we did install a 35 but we saw a ton of rubbing so it's safe to say a 33 is the largest you can go with this kit.These spacers feature a steel construction with a hammer-toned silver powder-coated finish and include all necessary mounting hardware to install this kit. So, as far as price goes, this kit comes in at around $150, making it one of the most budget-friendly ways to get a more level appearance to your truck and make some more room for those wheels and tires. And as far as the install goes, I'm giving this one a three out of three wrenches on the difficulty meter. It does feature a direct bolt-up install with no modification required and can be completed within two hours. So, with that said, let's go ahead and check out that install. For this install, we used an impact gun but a regular hand ratchet will work just fine. You'll also need 13-millimeter, 15-millimeter, 18-millimeter, 21-millimeter, 24-millimeter, and 30-millimeter sockets. You may want a swivel extension. You'll need 27-millimeter and 15-millimeter wrenches, flathead screwdriver, pop clip removal tool, caliper hanger or similar tool, pry bar, hammer, rubber mallet, and a vacuum pump.All right, so the first step in our uninstall with your truck in the air and the wheel removed, we're gonna grab a 21-millimeter socket and remove the nut holding on the outer tie rod to the knuckle. And once the nut is removed, remove it from your knuckle. Now, this is hung up, you can tap on the side of the knuckle with a hammer in order to release that ball joint. Next up, you're gonna remove the caliper off the knuckle. Grab an 18-millimeter socket and remove the 2 caliper bolts. And once those bolts are removed, you can remove the caliper. You can wiggle it off, but if it's not wanting to come off easily, you can use a pry bar or a large flathead. And once your caliper is off, grab a caliper hanger or a similar tool, or even a bungee cord, and hang it off to the side. Make sure there's no tension on the brake line. And now you can remove the rotor. I placed a lug nut on one of the studs while we're taking the caliper off just for safety so it didn't come loose. And now that it is off, we can remove it. And if for some reason yours is hung up, you can hit right back here with a rubber mallet to release it.Next up, we're gonna disconnect these two lines that go to the knuckle. We're gonna start with this sensor here. Just go ahead and follow that line up, you'll see a long back behind the brake line right up to that pop clip there. And using a pop clip removal tool, go ahead and get that removed out of this little bracket. Continuing to follow it up, you'll see it attached to the wheel well liner. Go ahead and pop that out. And again, you can use your trim tool if you need. And once that's popped out, it may be hard to see but there is a black connector there. Go ahead and press down and disconnect this line. Then once this line is disconnected, follow it back down and pop it out of both of these plastic brackets. Make sure you're also disconnecting it from the air line. Then moving to the back of the knuckle you'll see that air lines, vacuum line here, just pull up to remove this. Next up, we're moving to the upper ball joint here. I have a 21-millimeter socket and a swivel extension. Go ahead and get this removed. I'm gonna thread this back on just slightly so that we can have this in place when we release our upper ball joint.Now, we have that nut on to protect the threads and in order to release this upper ball joint, you're gonna hit the top of the knuckle right on the side with your hammer. Now, once that ball joint is released, grab a pry bar, and we're gonna pry down on that upper control arm, so that we can remove the nut and release the upper control arm from the knuckle. Now, what we're gonna do is pull suction on the back of the knuckle where that vacuum line went to. Grab your vacuum pump and place the line over the larger port. Now you can pull vacuum. I'm gonna pull between 15 and 20 pounds and this will allow the 4-wheel-drive to disengage so we can remove the axle. Now, to remove the knuckle you do need to remove the nut off the axle, and to get to that you need to remove this dust boot. I'm going behind it with a flathead screwdriver. Now, if this does not work, you can also use a hammer but you should be able to pry it off. Then once the dust cover is removed, grab a 13-millimeter socket and remove this nut.Make sure that your vacuum is still pulled as we'll now start to remove the axle. Now, to remove the lower ball joint, we're gonna remove this knot with a 24-millimeter socket. We're gonna thread the nut back onto hold it in place. And keep in mind this is the last thing holding the knuckle on the truck, so be very careful. And now we're gonna release the lower ball joint in the same method we released the upper. Now, again this nut is in place to both catch this knuckle and also protect the threads. So, grab your mallet and tap the very back of the knuckle. And now with the ball joint released, remove the nut on the bottom and remove the knuckle off of your truck. Now, we're underneath our control arm here. You can remove the entire end link itself or we can just remove the nut that's holding it to the lower control arm so that we can get our strut out. With an 18-millimeter socket go ahead and get this removed. Now we can remove the large throughbolt through the bottom of our strut assembly. With a 30-millimeter socket, we are on the nut side and we have a 27-millimeter wrench on the bolt side. Go ahead and get this removed.And then if the bolt does not wanna remove by hand, you can slide a pry bar just right in the bottom and sort of wiggle it until you find the sweet spot and remove it. Now, with a 15-millimeter ratcheting wrench or socket, we're gonna remove the nuts on the top of the strut assembly. I'm gonna leave this nut threaded on a bit just to hold it in place while I remove the rest of them. And then you may need a ratchet and socket for the backline just to be able to clear the top of the strut. And you can remove that last nut. And then once all of the bolts are removed, you can remove the strut assembly. I'm gonna press down on the lower control arm. Slide it out and down and remove it off the truck. Now that we have our strut assembly off of the truck, we can install our spacer. Go ahead and align it up to each of the studs and keep in mind this only goes on one way. Then once it's in place, we're gonna loosely install each of the gold nuts included with the kit. You may have to move this space around a bit in order to get them each in place. Then repeat that for your other two studs. Then with your 15-millimeter wrench, go ahead and tighten it down. Repeat that with your other two nuts.And now that the spacer is fully installed, we can line it back up on our truck. Get each of the studs lined up in the top and press down on your lower control arm to start to line up the strut. I'm gonna loosely install the nuts up top to hold it in place while we get the bottom lined up. Now, in order to line up the lower part of the strut with the lower control arm using that pry bar prying down on the lower control arm, we're gonna use that to line up the bolt through the bottom of the strut. Once the bolt is through, go ahead and re-install that large 30-mil nut. And with your 30-mil socket and 27-millimeter wrench go ahead and tighten this down. Now, with that 15-millimeter ratcheting wrench go ahead and tighten down the nuts on top of the strut assembly. And again, we're gonna use a 15-millimeter socket for the one in the back. Now, before we get the knuckle back on, I wanted to point out one of the reasons why we take it off in the first place. One is it's kind of nice to get it out of the way. But the second is that so we don't damage this gear on the inside which is on a diaphragm. When you pull pressure and vacuum it disengages, and then once we release it, if you look very closely on this inner ring here, you can see it reengage.So, if you're not pulling vacuum when you pull this knuckle, you risk damaging that gear which will then damage your four-wheel-drive. Then once your strut is fully secured, go ahead and reinstall your knuckle. Make sure that you are pulling pressure. And start to install it over top of that lower ball joint as well as the axle simultaneously. Once it's in place, grab that larger 27-millimeter nut and thread it on. Next up, make sure your axle is lined up and all the way through the knuckle. You'll know it's all the way through if you can see every thread and there's a bit of a shoulder on the back there as well. Thread on your factory nut, grab your 13-millimeter socket and tighten it down. Then you can replace the metal cover over top of that axle nut, and with a rubber mallet, lightly tap it into place. Make sure you tighten up the nut on your lower ball joint with a 24-millimeter socket. Now, we have the truck on the ground, and we have a floor jack underneath it. And what we're gonna do is just go ahead and jack up on that lower control arm so we can close the distance between the upper control arm and the knuckle.Now that we have it jacked up a little bit closer, we can use a pry bar and pry down on the upper control arm till it goes all the way through that knuckle. And then install the nut on the bottom of that ball joint. Now, while you're prying down the upper control arm, using that 21-millimeter socket and swivel extension, tighten it down. At this point now that your upper and lower ball joints are attached, you can release vacuum and go ahead and pull the vacuum pump off of the truck. And now you can re-install the vacuum line on the back of the knuckle. Now you can reconnect the sensor cable. Make sure you're reinstalling it through the wheel well liner. Reinstall the pop clip into the metal bracket and clip your line back into the clamps on the back of the brake line. And now we can reinstall the brake rotor, slide it over top of the wheel studs, and then I always like to put a lug nut on to hold that rotor in place while we install the caliper. Now you can grab your caliper off of the hanger and slide it back over top of the rotor. And then once you have it in place, go ahead and install the bolts in the back of the knuckle. And once both of your bolts are installed, grab an 18-millimeter socket and tighten it down.Now we're back on the floor with our floor jack underneath our lower control arm, we're just pushing up on it just a little bit so we can get our outer tie rod into its spot in the knuckle a little bit easier. Go ahead and slide it in. Thread your nut on top, and with your 21-millimeter socket, tighten it down. Now with your lower control arm still jacked up, it should be a little bit easier to get the sway bar end link reinstalled. Now, if you're doing both sides simultaneously, I suggest you leave these both fully disconnected until you're all finished and then put them both back on at the same time. Now, I'm prying down a little bit on the sway bar in order to get this fully lined up. And once it is and you're ready to re-install, grab an 18-millimeter socket and tighten it down. All right, and once you have your kit fully installed on your truck, make sure everything is torqued to spec and you will want a professional alignment afterwards. But that is gonna do it for the review and install of this leveling kit. And remember for all things F150, keep it at americantrucks.com.

      Product Information

      Features, Description, Reviews, Q&A, Specs & Installation

      Features & Specs

      • 2.5 in. Leveling Kit
      • Increased Ground Clearance
      • Removes Factory Rake
      • Hammertone Powdercoated Finish
      • Provides Clearance Up To 35 in. Tires
      • Bolt-On Installation
      • Made in the USA
      • Fits 2004-2014 2WD and 2004-2008 4WD F-150s

      Description

      Removes Factory Rake. If you are looking to raise the front of your F-150 to eliminate the factory rake, while adding a more rugged appearance, then look no further than the Mammoth 4x4 2.5 in. Leveling Kit. This Leveling Kit not only raises the front of your truck by 2.5 inches, but it increases the ground clearance to provide enough room to clear up to a 35 in. tall tire, with no other modifications, making it suitable for both on and off road use.

      High Quality Construction. Proudly Made in the USA, this Leveling Kit is constructed from laser cut steel for strength and durability. The spacers are completed in a hammertone powdercoat finish for superior styling and long lasting resistance against corrosion.

      Bolt-On Installation. Mammoth includes all of the necessary hardware to install the kit on your F-150 without any cutting or modifications. The Strut Extensions are a straight forward bolt-on install, since disassembly of the existing struts is not necessary.

      Application. This Mammoth 4x4 2.5 in. Front Leveling Kit is specifically designed to fit on the 2004-2014 2WD and 2004-2008 4WD F-150s.

      Mammoth 4x4

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      Details

      Mammoth T527670

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      Installation & What's in the Box

      Installation Info

      What's in the Box

      • (2) Strut Spacers
      • Hardware
      4.7

      Customer Reviews (500+)

        Questions & Answers

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