This Mustang Parts Installation Guide Works For
Installation Time: (approx) 4 hours
Read all instructions before beginning work. Following instructions in the proper sequence will ensure the best and easiest installation.
Thank you for purchasing Maximum Motorsports’ Caster/ Camber Plates. Our Caster/Camber Plates are designed to maximize the performance of your Mustang’s front suspension. You will find many features that set our Caster/Camber Plates apart from the rest:
IMPORTANT: The bearing used in our Caster/Camber Plates is swaged together with Teflon® in between the race and ball. This provides a very tight tolerance fit that prevents dirt from entering the bearing. The Teflon® reduces friction and minimizes wear over the lifespan of the bearing. The tight tolerances will not allow easy movement of the bearing center by hand. If the center of the bearing must be rotated, use the strut shaft as a lever to facilitate movement. DO NOT ATTEMPT TO LUBRICATE THE BEARING. Any oil or grease will attract dirt and damage the Teflon®, voiding your warranty.
NOTE: It may be easier to initially loosen the nut with air tools.
NOTE: The factory dust boot and MM bumpstops are NOT used in coil-over applications. If using Bilstein struts, the MM bumpstops and the factory dust boots are not used. Bilstein struts have internal bumpstops and their own dust boots. For replacement dust boots for Bilstein struts, you can order a Service-6 kit from MM for conventional spring applications, or a Service-7 kit for coil over applications.
TIP: It may be helpful to use silicone adhesive to stick the bottom plate to the underside of the strut tower.
NOTE: The orientation of the Bearing Plate can be either ‘positive’ or ‘negative’. Use the following illustration to properly position the Bearing Plates on the Main Plates. Use the table as a guide to determine the orientation of the Bearing Plates for your alignment needs. The majority of street cars will have the Bearing Plates installed in the ‘positive’ orientation. The majority of race cars will have the Bearing Plates installed in the ‘negative’ orientation. To change the Bearing Plates between positive and negative orientation, swap the Bearing Plates to the opposite sides of the car. For example, a bearing plate on the driver’s side in the positive orientation will be in the negative orientation on the passenger side.
NOTE: For MM Coil Over applications, consult your Coil-Over Instructions for correct spacer arrangement.
Important - At least one spacer above the caster camber plate spherical bearing is required to allow proper movement. Failure to do so will result in limited bearing articulation and possible damage to the bearing and/or the strut!
For cars at stock ride height:
For lowered cars:
Carefully close the hood to check for interference between the top of the strut shaft and the hood. You can check hood clearance by carefully closing the hood with putty or Play Dough on top of the strut shaft. The thickness of the smashed putty will indicate exactly how much hood clearance there is. If hood clearance is less than 1/8”, reposition the strut shaft spacers to lower the strut shaft relative to the spherical bearing. If the hood hits the strut shaft, rearrange the spacers to lower the strut shaft. This can be accomplished by moving a spacer from above the bearing to below the bearing, thus making the spacer stack below the bearing taller. Repeat this process until there is adequate hood to strut shaft clearance. Remember that the hood to strut shaft clearance will change after the alignment is set. Re-check this hood clearance after your Mustang is aligned!
NOTE: Because camber and caster can be adjusted independently with the MM plates, you can adjust one, lock it down, and then adjust the other. Always double check all camber and caster measurements after an adjustment of even one parameter. Remember that any time you make any change in camber, caster, or ride height, you must re-adjust the toe setting.
If you wish, you can simply have your car aligned to Ford’s specifications:
We recommend that caster be set to 4.5 degrees positive for street cars - but do not adjust the plate beyond the halfway point without special attention to bumpsteer detailed below. For race cars we recommend that the caster be set to 6.5 degrees positive, or at the limit of adjustment on the plate - with mandatory attention to bumpsteer. The Mustang responds favorably to increased positive caster. The reason: The more positive the caster setting, the more negative camber the loaded tire will gain while cornering.
We recommend that camber be set to .5 degree negative for street cars, never positive as Ford allows. For race cars we recommend 1.5 to 2.5 degrees negative camber. Some cars/drivers need more negative camber for optimum handling and tire wear. Keep an eye on your own tire wear and make adjustments as necessary. We recommend setting the toe to the factory spec of .5 degree toe-in for street use. For race cars we recommend .5 degree toe-out.
Bumpsteer is the toe setting of a wheel changing as the suspension moves up and down over bumps, or with body roll while cornering.
There is a myth that the tie rod should be kept parallel to the ground to avoid bumpsteer. THIS IS NOT TRUE! What IS required, is that the tie rod be kept parallel to the lower control arm so that as the suspension moves, the arc of the ball joint and the arc of the tie rod end do not cause any steering input to the spindle. As you lower your car, the tie rod end and the lower control arm move together, staying parallel. If you install offset rack bushings on a stock geometry K-member, you are making the tie rod end and the lower control arm NOT parallel. You will actually CREATE bumpsteer by installing offset rack bushings on a stock K-member.
Ford engineers have actually done a very good job at designing a low level of bumpsteer for daily driven cars. Specifically, Ford has designed the bumpsteer to toe out the front wheels under bump. This is a roll understeer condition; the outside loaded tire will turn to the outside of a corner as the body rolls. This condition is designed by Ford by positioning the tie rod end slightly low relative to the steering rack. Increasing caster raises the tie rod end relative to the steering rack. Increasing caster up to half of the adjustment range with our Caster/Camber Plates will actually HELP bumpsteer and help performance by reducing roll understeer. If you increase caster beyond half of the adjustment range, the bumpsteer curve will shift toward toe IN under bump, or a roll-oversteer condition. In this case, it is beneficial to raise the rack, but only by about 1/10 of an inch. Offset rack bushings raise the rack far too much. The best solution is to lower the tie rod end using a bumpsteer kit (MMTR-3,-4). See our test results in the July 1993 issue of Super Ford for details.
Competition cars using stock K-member geometry will also benefit from an adjustable tie rod end kit (MMTR- 3,-4). These kits provide an assortment of spacers in .015" increments to best position a rod end at exactly the correct height; thus taking into account suspension geometry tolerances.
Offset rack bushings DO have a purpose and may be beneficial if you have raised your inner control arm pivots using an aftermarket K-member. In this case, raising the rack will help match the geometry of the raised inner control arm pivots. If you do use offset rack bushings, be sure to only use aluminum bushings - polyurethane offset bushings do not work. The urethane has too much “give”, and therefore it is impossible to get the rack mounting bolts tight enough to prevent the bushings from rotating during hard cornering.
This kit includes:
2 Bottom Plates
2 Main Plates
2 Bearing Assemblies
8 3/8 X 1/4 thick Washers
24 3/8 G8 Washers
16 3/8 Hex Nuts
2 Polyurethane Bumpstops
2 14” UV Resistant Black Zip Ties
4 16mm ID Strut Shaft Spacers - Short
4 16mm ID Strut Shaft Spacers - Long
1 Instruction Set