1. Raise and support the vehicle on jack stands or a lift. Remember to block or chock the rear tires.
2. Disconnect the negative (-) cable from the battery.
3. Label and remove the spark plug wires. Be careful as the rubber boot may have seized to the spark plug itself. Gently twist the boot until it breaks free.
4. Make sure to remove any debris which may have gathered near the exhaust ports.
5. Soak all necessary bolts with penetrating oil to allow for easy removal. Be careful, old and rusty manifold bolts break easily. Removing them from the head is no walk in the park.
6. Unbolt the motor mounts as jacking or lifting of the engine may be necessary.
7. Removal of the front rim/tire may help gain access to lower header bolts.
8. Dip stick tube removal may be necessary on some applications
9. Unbolt the factory h-pipe from the factory manifold and the factory cat-back. Disconnect the O2 sensor wiring and remove the h-pipe.
10. Unbolt and remove the driver and passenger side factory manifolds. Removal of AIR or EGR accessories may be necessary on some applications.
11. Clean and prep the gasket mounting surface for the new headers.
12. When installing your new headers, snug the bolts starting from the center working your way to each end in a crisscross pattern. Finish by tightening all the bolts using the same method. It’s always good to use anti-seize compound when installing header bolts.
13. EGR removal is necessary on the driver side.
14. Dipstick stick removal is necessary.
15. An “E7” female torx socket will be necessary to remove the manifold studs.
16. If you choose, you can reuse your original studs and nuts
17. Removal of the coil pack will also be necessary.
18. Make sure to reconnect and tighten any EGR, dip stick, battery cables, motor mounts, steering racks, steering shaft, intake tubes, or strut tower braces.
19. Make sure all hoses and wiring is clear from the header tubes.
20. Reinstall your Y-pipe. Properly seat the ball and sockets and tighten.
Installation instructions provided by Pypes