27. Before putting the new pads in, you’ll need to compress/retract the piston. This requires a special tool which you’ll either need to buy, borrow OR see if your local auto parts store will loan you. This is required on both rear brakes.
28. Before putting anything back together, make sure your rear rotors are still in good condition. You MAY wish to replace your rotors now too, but if they still have lots of life on them, just leave them.
29. Next, install your new pads and slide the caliper assembly back over the rotor.
30. Reinstall the (2) 10mm bolts on the back (one on the top, one on the bottom).
31. Now, it’s time to replace the rear brake line. At the bottom of the rear caliper assembly, remove the bolt attaching the brake line to the caliper assembly. Brake fluid will spill out, so be prepared with a bucket or rag.
32. The rest of the replacement is identical to the process on the front: Steps 17-20. By the time you’ve done both lines on the front, you should be able to do it in your sleep.
33. Before reinstalling your wheels and testing out your brakes, read the final notes below.
FINAL NOTES (IMPORTANT):
- You’re going to need to bleed your brakes before reinstalling your wheels. Since you’re bleeding the brakes anyway, you should consider replacing your brake fluid at the same time. Bleed RR, LR, RF, LF.
- Note that unlike your stock front calipers, these have TWO bleeding screws on each side. One that you should see right in front of you on the top of the caliper and another on the back side. You’ll need to bleed both of these. Start with the inside, then the outside.
- When reinstalling your wheel, do it CAREFULLY. You may find that there is not enough clearance (even if you have 18” rims) as the new calipers stick out almost an inch farther than the stock ones. If you find yourself in this situation, then you’ll either need to get new wheels or invest in wheel spacers (like I had to). American Muscle sells a variety of wheel spacers that work well.