(approx) 3 Hours
Mechanical expertise or professional installation required.
Hey, guys. Adam here with americanmuscle.com and today, we have a really, really cool review and install for you. We're taking a close detailed look at the Air Lift Performance 3H Height and Pressure Adjustable Air Suspension System available for all 2005 to 2014 Mustangs. Now, the Air Lift 3H/3P system is a great choice for those of you who wanna step outside the box, straying away from the traditional spring setup to upgrade to a full air suspension. Now, there are a number of benefits that come along with upgrading to your bagged setup and this height end pressure kit from Air Lift is one of the most innovative and advanced technology systems on the market. It includes height adjustable shocks and struts with 30-way adjustable dampening that can easily be dialed in to whatever firmness or softness fits your preference, and it can be done extremely easily with the twist of a knob. It also includes a 4-gallon tank, a Viair 444C Compressor, and the Advanced Air Lift Manifold and ECU with built-in Bluetooth.Now, the new and improved height sensors take the kit to the next level, which I'll explain in detail in just a little bit. The air lines we're working with today in this particular kit are the 1/4-inch option, but there is also the 3/8-inch option to help you air out even quicker. When it comes to picking your next upgrade, you ultimately have three options, lowering springs, coilovers, and air suspension. Now, lowering springs, of course, work well for someone looking for a more affordable solution to your fixed ride height and a small change in performance handling. Coilovers, on the other hand, have their adjustable dampening, and in some cases, ride height to give you some room to play with how they look and how they feel.Now, the air suspension has the benefit of all of the above, plus extreme versatility that can't be compared to any other suspension upgrade on the market. With this kit, you'll have a drop of 4.7 inches in the front and up to 4.9 inches in the rear. Now, that's a much bigger range than any coilover kit could provide. You can completely adjust the ride height on the fly anywhere from one inch above stock ride height to completely slammed with your tires tucked nicely under your fenders. All of this can be done using the controller right in the driver's seat. Now, you might be thinking, "Can this kit really withstand extreme driving conditions like taking a few passes on the drag strip or performing on an autocross course?" Well, Air Lift's engineers have torture-tested all the parts, have made countless passes with this kit to ensure that it performs up to par every single time no matter the terrain.Now, the stiff dampening progressive [inaudible 00:02:27] springs and adjustable camber plates help prove that this kit is track ready and able to take on those tough courses. On the flip side, it makes for an extremely comfortable daily driver and it's something to show off every single time you drive it. There's even a few small things that really make the Air Lift 3H Kit stand out from some of the others. They made one fully-integrated harness that runs connected to your manifold through your trunk to all four corners of the vehicle without having to run individual lines. That's a really good option to have that makes the install a ton easier. No need to run those several individual harnesses, you just run that one big harness along with all of your air lines to the four corners in an all-in-one type of deal and I'll show you all of that in the install in just a bit.Now, I thought a few fun facts about the Air Lift Kit were pretty interesting. The height sensors, manifold, and controller have undergone 3 million cycles on a test rig simulating 300,000 miles on the vehicle. The components have been hydro-tested to ensure water resistance. Fried at 167 degrees Fahrenheit and frozen at a negative 40 degrees. They're absolutely built to last in any climate. The kit also won the 2015 SEMA Global Media Award. Big achievement for the Air Lift Kit. Now, if this is something that interests you, then you can expect to pick the entire kit up for about 3500 to 3700 bucks depending on some of your selected optional parts. Like I said, we've got the 1/4-inch lines in this particular kit, instead of the 3/8 lines which do affect the pricing. This has the premium 444C compressor from Viair. It's got the tank options varying from 2.5 gallons to 5 gallons, and again, this one here is the 4-gallon option.All of these factors affect the amount of time it takes for your compressor to fill the air tank and how long it takes for your bags to air up and down. Now, the 3/8 lines, again, will air up a little bit faster than the 1/4-inch options, but they might be a little bit harder to run to each corner considering the larger diameter and harder to fit through some of the spaces. Some guys will decide to run two compressors to double the speed of filling the tank. It's worth noting that while this video is a good guideline for the install of everything I'm mentioning, there is a lot of custom work that needs to be done. There isn't an exact science when it comes to mounting the tank, manifold, and compressor in your trunk. It's completely up to you to decide what fits to your personal preference.There's an endless number of ways to do it which you can see from just a quick search online. The same goes for the height sensors. You may need to fabricate your own brackets to get them aligned 100% properly. Full disclosure here, guys, it's 100% going to be a trial and error process. We even had to go back and make modifications to our sensor bracket rods to get them calibrated properly. That might be something you have to do. Be expecting to put your wheels on and off a bunch of times to make sure you have it done 100% correct throughout the entire process. With all that said, expect the full three out of three wrenches on our difficulty meter here with the better part of a weekend getting everything done from start to finish and getting it dialed in it to your liking.Expect to have the entire toolbox on deck for this one, guys. I'm not joking. Full ratchet and socket set, cordless impact, a drill and drill bits, torque wrench, breaker bar helps as well. Thread tape is definitely recommended for the fittings along with a lift or a jack and several jack stands. I'd recommend having a helping hand throughout this process as well, and if you don't feel comfortable tackling it yourself, there's no shame handing it over to a professional. Just keep in mind that all tacks onto the final cost. Now, I'll be stopping down to highlight some of the really important parts of the kit throughout the install. So, what do you say I stop talking and we just show you how it's done?First step here, I got my air tools out here. I'm gonna remove all four of these wheels to get us access to the suspension and then we'll be able to get to work. Now, when you're doing this, we, obviously, are using that lift, but if you don't have one, make sure you are fully secure on jacks and jack stands before you get started on this. Definitely be on the more cautious side. You don't want anything to go wrong, so get your Mustang secured first and then get to work on the wheels.All right, so the first step of our install after we get our wheels off, we lowered our car back down a little bit. We're under the hood here. Before we get to the suspension, I'm gonna pop off our strut tower brace here by the two 13-millimeter bolts, then I'm gonna pop off the other two that are holding on the top of our strut tower. Once those are off on each side, we'll be able to get the car back up in the air and get to work underneath.I'm actually gonna leave one of these a little bit loosened up but still on that stud, that way when we're done taking off the strut from the bottom, it won't fall straight through, that'll be holding it up from the top. Car back up in the air, we're gonna put a pole jack under our hub assembly for support. Get to work removing our sway bar end link from our strut. Now, as you can see here, this car does have some work done to it. It is rocking the Eibach Pro-Street-S coilovers. Our customer here does wanna remove those and get some bags put on this car, which is a huge upgrade. So, that's gonna be really exciting, but I did wanna let you guys know we're not working with a completely stock suspension here. The Eibachs are gonna come out on both sides then we're gonna uninstall the rear and get to work on the assembly of our new Air Lift system. So support the hub, disconnect the end link here, and then we're gonna work on the two strut bolts on the bottom.All right. Next, we're gonna use our wire cutters here to snip off the zip tie holding our brake lines to the strut assembly. And I'm gonna take my 10-millimeter socket and remove the bolt holding on that bracket for the brake line assembly. Once that's dropped down out of the way, we can work on our sway bar end link. Those are dropped down out of the way. All right, so next we've got our 18-millimeter socket here and our 18-millimeter wrench. We're gonna hold the middle of that nut and disconnect it from our strut assembly. Swing that down out of the way. All right, now we're gonna tackle that bottom strut bolt on the hub assembly. Got our 18-millimeter socket. Now, there is a retaining pin at the bottom so we don't have to hold this one from the other side with a wrench. All right, next up, we're gonna use a 15-millimeter socket to remove the top strut bolt here, and we're also using an 18-millimeter wrench on the opposite side to hold that nut in place.So, now that we have everything disconnected from our hub assembly on our driver's side strut here, all we have to do now is we're going up top under the hood to remove the last nut on the top of the strut tower. Once we have that removed, our entire strut is gonna be able to come out. Make sure that you have a pole jack supporting underneath of that hub assembly just because you don't wanna put tension on the brake lines now that everything is disconnected. Same thing opposite side here on the front end to uninstall our factory parts. What we're gonna do is remove the brake line bracket, support your hub assembly, snip the zip tie holding on those brake lines. We're gonna remove or disconnect the top end of the sway bar end link, then the two bottom strut bolts, and remove that coilover assembly as one piece.We're finished up with the front end, so we're back here at the rear. Like I said in the beginning, I wanna uninstall all of the factory suspension pieces before we move on to the Air Lift system, just so we can get all of the uninstall out of the way. Now, the rear end is gonna be a little bit different and like I said, this car does have a lot of work done to it, so as you'll see, there is a Watts link here in place of a Panhard bar, that's probably not the setup that you're particularly working with, so if you do have a Panhard bar, you can skip all the steps that we're doing with the Watts link, just a quick disclaimer. And moving on from there, what we're gonna have to do is disconnect our sway bar brackets, drop that down to have access to the bolt. We would be able to get to it but it won't be able to back all the way out with the sway bar as is, so we'll disconnect that, drop it down, work on the bottom bolt for our shock. I'm actually gonna put the car on the ground before we do that, work up in the trunk to remove the top nut of the shock. Once that top nut is loosened up, we'll be able to come back down here and tackle all the things I just mentioned. At that point, we'll have the pole jack underneath of our rear axle. We'll work it down to decompress the springs on both sides, remove all of that, and then we'll be good to move on to Air Lift.All right, so now that we've got the car lowered down and our trunk is open, to access the top of your shock tower, what you're gonna have to do is peel back the trunk liner. That gives you access to that top nut. Now, that's a 17-millimeter nut that we're gonna use our deep socket for and a cordless impact. Now, if you're using a regular ratchet, it might be a little bit tough because once you start turning that nut, the entire shock assembly is going to twist with it. Using a cordless impact or even some air tools would be a little bit easier because it's got a little bit more torque. All right, now, we can do that same thing for our driver's side.I'm gonna use my 19-millimeter socket and wrench to disconnect and remove the top bolt holding on our sway bar bracket and swing it down. We'll do the same thing on both sides. Guys, it's worth noting here that you wanna have pole jack support on both sides underneath your rear axle before you go any further. Once you have those in place and you're ready to start disconnecting those sway bar brackets, keep in mind that the rear end isn't much like the front, you would definitely have to be doing them both simultaneously on each side. So, when you do one thing on one side, repeat that for the opposite side so that everything is matching up as you go along. Thanks to the solid rear axle, that's something that you have to do for the back end. Again, we're here with a 19-millimeter socket and wrench. We're backing up the last bolt on our sway bar bracket. We'll swing this down and then move forward with the rest of the shock assembly.If you do not have a Watts link instead of a factory or aftermarket Panhard bar, you can skip this step. If you do have a Watts link, however, you will have to remove the bolts holding it to the frame on each side. Now, on your driver's side, they're vertical bolts. On the passenger's side, those are horizontal bolts going sideways. I'm gonna use my 16-millimeter socket and extension to pop those off.All right, next step here we're gonna remove the bottom shock bolt. Now, when you do this, obviously, make sure that those pole jacks are in place under your rear axle and make sure that you're holding on to the shock itself. Since we did already remove the top nut, it will, in fact, drop out. So what we're gonna do, put that sleeve back up there. Use our 15-millimeter socket and back this out. Hold on to that shock, back that bolt out. You can just wiggle that free. Set your stock shock aside. Same thing here for the opposite side. All right, at this point, I'm gonna slowly lower down our pole jack on one side to decompress that spring and pull it out of place. I definitely stress doing this slowly. You don't wanna do it too fast and decompress it too quickly because then it can get pretty dangerous. So, slowly back that spring down and then we'll be able to pull it out and that'll be our last step for both sides.So, we're just about done uninstalling all of our factory parts. Well, in Tony's case, a lot of aftermarket parts but the uninstall process will be about the same for almost every single piece that you'll be uninstalling. Now, it's time to get to work on the Air Lift system, it's the exciting stuff. I got pretty dirty, but it's gonna pay off once we start with this management system. So, we're gonna start with the tank and everything, run our lines where we need them to be, then we'll install the bags in the rear, we'll do the front, we'll finish everything off, and see how it looks.All right, guys, the uninstall on my buddy, Tony's, Mustang behind me is complete and it's time to move on to actually mounting our air management system in our trunk. Now, this is going to be something that is very custom and very specific to your situation. The way that we're doing it today, I think, is really clean and professional-looking, but, again, it's all opinionated and you can do it a number of different ways. There really is no right or wrong way. Now, since we're working with a Track Pack Mustang that does not come with a spare tire from the factory, we have an open spare tire carrier that we really wanna take advantage of. The way that we're gonna do that here is we've actually cut a custom piece of wood that fits perfectly in that spare tire carrier, painted it black to make it look a little nicer and a little bit more stealthy, and we're gonna mount our compressor, manifold, and a little bit of our wiring harness to this piece of wood and hide that under our bottom trunk mat.Now, again, like I said, there's a number of ways to do this. If you do not have a Track Pack Mustang, you do have a spare tire in that carrier and you might not be interested in losing it. If that is the case, you can mount the compressor and the manifold in the trunk itself, which, of course, does take up a little bit of space, but there are ways to make that look really clean. There's a number of other options to take care of and you can obviously do some research on your own to see what fits best with you. We personally like this route.Now, with that in mind, I wanna talk about some of the things that we're actually gonna be mounting in that spare tire carrier. One of those things is going to be our Viair 444C air compressor, which is an absolute beast. This thing boasts a combined flow rate at 0 PSI of 3.53, and 3.5 CFM is actually pretty impressive. This is a very high-quality air compressor from Viair, which, again, really contributes to why this kit from Air Lift is such a high ticket item. But with that in mind, this has the capability of filling a 5-gallon air tank at 150 PSI in 1 minute and 54 seconds.The air tank that we're working with in this particular kit comes with a four-gallon tank, so, actually, you can expect a quicker recovery time. Now, the other thing included in the management system here is the Air Lift Performance manifold. Now, this is really the brains of the operation. The way the whole management system is going to work is essentially, that air compressor is going to feed into the air tank, the air tank to the manifold, and the manifold's got these fittings, as you can see on the front here, that are gonna go right to all four corners of your suspension, filling those bags. Now, it sounds pretty complicated, but when you lay it out and install it, you'll be able to understand a little more how this is gonna work and I'm gonna take you through step by step.Now, there's a couple of things I wanna touch on before we get going here. The air compressor gets extremely hot, so if you are mounting this in that spare tire carrier, you wanna make sure that there are space between whatever you're mounting it on in that carrier and the bottom of that trunk liner. Now, this actually typically mounts upward like that. The brackets are normally on the bottom. We've actually rotated that to the side to give ourselves a little bit more clearance when mounting it to our custom piece of wood here. That's a good idea to give yourself a little bit more space between the top of this and the bottom of something that could actually potentially burn. Since it does get very hot, we're gonna be laying down some heat shield underneath that trunk liner to make sure that we're taking all the precautions necessary. The manifold is also going to get mounted on this piece of wood here, which is gonna hide under that trunk liner. All those lines will run up to the tank and then from there, it's gonna run straight to all four corners of your suspension.The harness you see to my right is going to be for the controller. Now, we've got the relay that we're gonna mount on the wood. We've got some power and ground wires we'll be able to splice in a little bit later on to what you see here and then the other end of that goes straight to the controller that's gonna be in your hand in the driver's seat. For now, I wanna start mounting everything to this piece of wood outside the car, which makes life a whole lot easier, then we're gonna move it into the spare tire carrier and get to work on that management system. So it's about that time to mount our compressor and our manifold to our custom cut piece of wood. And, again, it's not gonna be the same for you guys if you are using a different mounting method, this is just something that we like to go with here.So, I've got my drill and my drill bits out. I've got the templates included in the kit actually taped down to our wood here, so it makes like a little bit easier. We don't have to play the guessing game. We've already got that laid out where we want it to be. What I'm gonna do is drill into our wood for our compressor system, bolt that down, do the same thing for our manifold, and we'll cap it off by putting our air filter on the side of that compressor. So, step one, get our drill bit set up and get to work.We're finding that removing the brackets from the compressor is gonna make life a little easier. We'll bolt the brackets down to the holes that we're drilling through the template then we'll bolt the compressor back down to those brackets. We have our compressor and manifold bolted down. I'm gonna put our filter onto our compressor, which goes on this end here. I'm gonna remove that plug in just a second. In order to do that, we've got our Phillips head screwdriver. We have to remove this plastic cover piece, that'll come off and allow us to screw it into the compressor.All right, so, next step here is we have to do a little bit of splicing. Now, it sounds pretty scary, but honestly, it is extremely simple if you have the right tools. Right now, we have a wire stripper wire cutter kind of combo tool here. So, what we're gonna do is actually cut off the ends of the compressor wires. As you can see, we've got the power and ground. It's got the ring and the female plug. We don't need either of those since we're gonna take the live wires and throw them right into our heat shrink splice connector here. So I've got my tool, I'm gonna snip off the ends. I don't wanna snip off too much, just right at the end of that connector.All right, same thing for the black. From there, we're gonna put each end into our stripper. Next up, we're gonna take the end of our harness here. Now, you wanna make sure you're grabbing the right side. This is the side here with our relay, our plug going into our manifold, and then the power and ground wiring. We don't need the harnesses just yet. We just need the power and ground. Do the same thing here. At this point, we wanna make sure we're going power to power, ground to ground. All right, those blue connectors were a little small, so I'm gonna switch over to our larger connectors, twist those wiring just to get them a little nicer. We're gonna go compressor side in one end, harness side in the other, crimp them down, heat shrink them together, make sure it gets an airtight seal.Make sure there's a tie, give them a nice tug. Do the same thing for the black one, and then we're gonna shrink them. We got our heat gun plugged in. Let's shrink the splice connectors. All right, now that we have our wiring harness all spliced into the compressor, what do you say we drop this in the car and start running our wires? Of course, we wanna disconnect the negative terminal on our battery. Make sure we're disconnecting that power so we can be safe about it. So we've got our 8-millimeter socket here. I'm just gonna pop this terminal off then we'll get started on feeding that wiring through.All right, guys. Things are moving along. We disconnected to the negative cable on our battery. We already ran our power, ground, and fuse harness all the way inside of the vehicle. We didn't line it anywhere yet, we just kinda tossed it inside near the passenger seat. What we're gonna do next is start running our air lines themselves. We have our 1/4-inch air lines that we're gonna run from our trunk at our manifold all the way up to where we're gonna be in the wheel well of our passenger side front. So, in order to do that, we're gonna take this 1/4-inch line, go back down to this manifold. Now, as you can see, there are a ton of connections on the front of that manifold, each one is extremely specific to which side it is going to.The second one in from the left is your passenger's side front bag connector. That's where we're gonna put this air line because that's where we're starting first. The reason we're starting there is because we want to run our power, ground, and fuse harness to the battery. In order to do that, you wanna run that with your passenger's side front air line. We wanna do it all together. So, since it's a quick plug connector, all you have to do, push in and it locks itself in. As you can see, I'm tugging on it, it is not coming out. If you need to remove it for any reason, you push in on that gray connector and pull it straight back and it comes out. It's a really quick connection. So, we're gonna tighten that back in. Now that we have that, I'm gonna feed all of the air line here that we have precut into our passenger side of inside of the vehicle.Now, it's a worth note here, we cut our lines already to the exact same length all the way around. In all four corners, you wanna make sure you're cutting the same length of the cable to all four corners. That way, it airs up and down in the front and the rear at the same speed. If you have shorter rear cables and longer front cables, the rear is gonna air up significantly faster, so we want all of our lines to be the same length and if there's excess for the rear, which there will be, we'll be able to tuck it in under our spare tire carrier where we have everything mounted. Again, it's a personal preference. It all depends on your particular setup. That's how we're gonna take care of it on our end. Now that we have this plugged into our manifold, I'm gonna start running this air line up with the rest of our harness here and we'll be able to start feeding it into the front end.All right, guys, so in my hand here, we have our power harness, which is these two right here, the power and ground that'll run to the battery. This one is gonna go to our fuse box under the hood, and then finally, a really important one here is our airl ine. These three are gonna go together only on our passenger's side simply because the air line is gonna run with the fuse wires all the way through the passenger's side kick panel through a grommet going into the wheel well. Now, I'll show you guys that in just a second. Before we get that far, I've already fed it through this plastic trim here by our rear seats. Pop those bottom seat cushions out, feed that wire through this trim panel, and it comes out right next to your door sill plate. Very, very simple stuff. But what I'm gonna do here is I've already peeled off some of this door sill plate. All you have to do for that is just pull up on the corners, go straight across, and get that out of place. Now, we don't really need to remove the entire thing, it's still wired in here, so we don't wanna completely disconnect everything. But I'm gonna lift up our carpet. Now, this is gonna give our air line a little bit more protection from the outside elements, just having it run inside the car and under the carpet there. Same goes for the wiring harness. So, we've got all three of those running along the inside of this carpet.From here, I'm gonna take all three of these wiring harnesses and feed it under our black trim panel here, going into our passenger's side kick panel. Now, that's not too hard to lift up just enough to get those wires tucked. Once it's underneath there, we'll be able to close off the door trim panel. So, with our line underneath the carpet tucked in, clip our carpet back into place, snap our door sill panel down, and that's back to OEM. It doesn't look like anything was done to it, it's back to factory. Same thing here, we're gonna tuck that in, get that to snap down.All right, so now that we have our lines run to our passenger's side kick panel, all three of these wires are actually gonna go straight through this grommet which comes out on the inside of our passenger's side front wheel well. Now, we'll have to remove our inner wheel liner just to get to the access of this grommet. Once we do, we'll be able to feed that through and it will take us up into the engine bay. So, on the other side of this, let's remove the wheel well liner. We're gonna cut a little piece of that knob out of the grommet and we're gonna feed our wires.All right, so we're in the wheel well here on our front passenger side. I've got my Phillips head screwdriver. I'm gonna back out these push pin clips. With that out of place, we just go...follow this up to the top and it splits into two pieces here. So we have two more. With those two out of place, we're able to peel back this wheel well liner. With the liner peeled back, this is the rubber grommet that is feeding under our passenger's side kick panel under our dashboard. Now, this little nipple here on the rubber grommet doesn't actually hold anything in there, so we're gonna cut that off and feed our lines straight through that hole. Now that we have that perfect hole, we can feed all three of our wires straight through there and up through our firewall into our engine bay.So, we ran that battery cable, the power, and ground along with the fuse cable through our wheel well, up through the fender, and into our engine bay. Now, the red and black cables are going directly to the battery. That pink cable, again, is going to the fuse box. We'll come back to this pink cable in just a second. We wanna take care of what we need to do for the battery. That's gonna give power to our compressor. So, what we're gonna do is take our inline fuse harness and we're going to splice that into our power and our ground. Now, that ground wire is gonna go directly to the negative cable on the battery. The positive cable is gonna splice into this inline fuse and go over to the positive cable on the battery. So, what I'm gonna do here is I'm actually gonna cut some of this excess off of the inline fuse, we're gonna splice that into a heat shrink butt connector, then we're gonna input that fuse into our inline fuse connector, and, of course, get everything situated on the battery.We're gonna crimp that inline positive fuse to our heat shrink connector on one end. I'm gonna strip back some of the wire on our harness cable and we'll splice that together into that heat shrink. And we're gonna crimp these together. Give it a little tug. At this point, we can take our heat gun, shrink this little shrink wrap. We'll be able to move on to our negative cable and get everything situated with the positive as well. All right, now on the other side here, we're gonna pull off this precut wire and we're gonna splice in our O-ring. Now, this O-ring is what's gonna connect it directly to our positive terminal and our negative terminal. So, I'm gonna slide this into the back of the splice connector and that, we'll be able to crimp down together. We'll do the same thing for our ground cable here.At this point, we can take the fuse provided for us in the kit, pop that into the inline fuse, make sure that's connected properly, and close that cap. Now that our power and ground wires from our harness are good to go, we don't wanna connect our battery just yet. We have a couple more things we need to do before we come back to reconnect that battery. This might actually be one of the last steps in our process. Next, we're gonna be able to tackle our fuse line going straight to fuse box under the hood. Now, for the fuse wire part of the harness, it's a good idea to run this to a part in your fuse box under the hood that is gonna turn on with your ignition or with your accessories and turn off when the key is not in the car. That is a really big key when setting up the wiring harness for your compressor and all the accessories in the trunk.So that's what we're gonna figure it out next. We're gonna run this wire to the fuse box here. We got some of the hardware included in the kit that will help us. Now, we decided to run this into the pre-drilled hole in our strut tower here in the front, so it's coming through our wheel well like I said before, and feeding directly where we need it to be for the fuse line. Now, again, there's a number of different ways you can do this. Some of the guys will actually run it through the door and the fender to the fuse box. We decided to go through that grommet in our wheel well, makes life a little easier. It's a little cleaner-looking. We can tuck at behind the wheel liner. So we'll get to that in just a second. We just wanna tackle that fuse box.All right, guys. Next, is our fuse line. Now what we're gonna do is use anothe
Subscribe to our YouTube Channel
Features, Description, Reviews, Q&A, Specs & Installation
CA Residents: WARNING: Cancer and Reproductive Harm - www.P65Warnings.ca.gov
September 10, 2018
Air Lift Performance 3H Height
Started with a "14 GT with Track Pack. Was never happy with that package and went to HandR street performance coil over kit. That package handled like a dream but I was hitting the bump stops in the back quit regularly on the poorly maintained streets. My wife simply hated it. Air Lift Performance has solved all my problems. I have her set at 50 for normal driving and its actually a little stiffer than the coil overs but doesn't beat the bump stops. I have a 2" window with the front that doesn't throw the alignment out of wack. I can lower it and drive "aggressively" and then take the wife to dinner with it raised up with the push of a button. Every one is happy and I like seeing people pulling over to check it out when she's parked and aired out. I wish I would have started with the air ride set up. So much better than the track pack ford joke and now even handles better than the HandR kit. Well worth the expence.Helpful (4)
May 09, 2018
Really something else...
One of the things you may not realize when purchasing a side exhaust system is that you cannot lower your ride. This solve my problem of having a side exhaust system and a lowered configuration. You can put it very low on good roads and put it up when clearing stop bumps or one bad roads. You need to create your how brackets for the sensors and position them in a way that clears your rim in all positions specially the rear ones. The sensors really make the difference so saving few bucks omitting them is not a good deal. You will end up with an uneven ride despite your best efforts. Highly recommended. There are few challenging installation issues but overall I installed this over a weekend by myself in my garage. I will post some more detail photos soon. The ride quality is really something else and having your mustang lowered or raised at will is something else.Helpful (7)
February 02, 2017
I just finish installing it on my brother mustang and the results were awesome. The system works perfect, it needed barley any modification, which was only needed for the rear airbags, the front airbags was more like plug and play. The air lines were very easy to assemble and route through the vehicle. Nice kit the car looks killer.Helpful (11)
What is the difference between this and the air-lift-performance-3p-air-suspension?
The Air Lift Performance 3H Height & Pressure Adjustable Air Suspension System includes actual suspension components while the 3P Kits are just Air Management Systems.
Does this kit come with the compressor mount for vibration reduction? Also, is this kit compatible with a 2011 Roush Mustang 5XR? Thanks for your time.
The Air Lift Performance 3H Height & Pressure Adjustable Air Suspension System will work on a Roush 5XR. The compressor will have vibration mounts.
Will this fit a 2005 saleen
The Air Lift Performance 3H Height and Pressure Adjustable Air Suspension System will be compatible with a 2005 Saleen Mustang.
It says this kit WILL raise car 1 inch over stock oem ride height. Which I need for my driveway. But in your answer you say it WILL NOT. What gives? Will it or won't it raise my car 1 inch above oem stock ride height?
TheAir Lift Performance 3H Height & Pressure Adjustable Air Suspension System will allow you to raise the suspension about 1" above stock OEM ride height.
What’s the difference between V2 3P and 3H they work the same height because I got this front bumper from cervini’s and my car is 2 1/2 to the ground I would like to lift a couple 2” . Can those two lift do it...
The Air Lift Performance 3H and Air Lift Performance 3P Adjustable Air Suspension Systems would be unable to provide 2" of lift to the front. The 3H is height and pressure adjustable, whereas the 3P is only pressure adjustable.
The Air Lift Performance 3H Height & Pressure Adjustable Air Suspension System is a full kit. You will receive Front & Rear suspension kit and the Air Lift Performance 3H Air Management System.
Hello! As the description states, this is an all-inclusive air suspension setup. I apologize for any confusion you are having, please give us a call at 1-888-327-2339 and we would be more than happy to help explain everything to you!
The Air Lift Performance 3H Height & Pressure Adjustable Air Suspension System is a complete kit. It will come with the Front & Rear suspension kit and the Air Lift Performance 3H Air Management System.
(approx) 3 Hours
Mechanical expertise or professional installation required.
What's in the Box