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Borla S-Type Dual Exhaust System with Polished Tips; Rear Exit (11-14 3.5L EcoBoost F-150)

Item T527326-B
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Ship to: Ashburn - 20149
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      Product Videos

      Hey, guys, Adam here with americantrucks.com. And today, we're taking a closer look at listening to and installing the Borla Stinger S-Type dual rear exit cat-back exhaust for the '11 to '14, 3.5-liter EcoBoost F-150. You should be checking this out, not if you're looking for the most aggressive exhaust in the world, but more so one that has a super aggressive exit styling, switching it up from your factory dump that comes out the passenger side behind the rear tire to something that has dual exhausts coming out of the rear end, one on each side with 4-inch polished stainless steel tips. On the other hand, you should be looking for the best upgrade as far as quality of materials going from your factory exhaust to 304 stainless steel. Now, as you just heard from our sound clips, I'm gonna give this one two out of five on our loudness meter for the sound. It's not a huge difference from stock. It is a little bit deeper, maybe a little bit louder, but really all that much hasn't changed. It does have a slightly different muffler going from the factory one to the Borla Stinger S-Type, which is typically known to be the middle of the road option from Borla, but I will say on our 3.5, it's not gonna be super aggressive, and it's not gonna be super loud in volume. There is a small tone change, though. So, at idle, expect something very mellow and at wide-open throttle, expect something that does have a little bit of noise to it, but really not too much. With that said, however, this is perfect for the guy looking for the better quality and the better rear exit style, which, of course, is personal preference. But the guy looking to be able to have a conversation inside the car, take their family on a long road trip and listen to music comfortably without any drone whatsoever inside the vehicle, and without really any noise that would disrupt the interior cabin. That's gonna be the perfect fit for you if you're looking for that kind of exhaust. I will say the dual rear exit is a really big focal point for this particular option. If you're looking for sound, if you're looking for a loud volume, if you're looking for a deep, aggressive tone, there's a ton of other options in the category, this one isn't gonna be the one for you. Look at this particular one if you like the dual rear exit, and you're not looking for a big change in sound but more so quality and appearance.Now, 3-inch inlet, 2.25-inch outlet for the diameter of the piping, mandrel-bent tubing all around with 304 stainless steel, highest quality materials on the market, which is what we expect from Borla. They're one of the more premium brands in the category. Four-inch polished 304 stainless 4-inch tips, slash-cut, looks really good, blends in really well with the chrome accents we have on this truck. Now, if you're not really into the chrome, there are black tip options in the category, if you're looking to go a more stealthy route. That, of course, is personal preference as well.The whole kit comes in right around 1000 bucks, which really isn't too overwhelming. It's a pretty general price tag for something in the category, especially something with a dual rear exit. Now, the install I'm giving two out of three wrenches on our difficulty meter and not because it requires any drilling. There's no welding, there's no cutting, none of that nonsense. It is a direct bolt-on, and it's easy enough for anybody with simple hand tools and maybe about two hours in the driveway at home. Now, you do have an extra step, I will say, on both sides because it is that dual rear exit. So you're extending back, which means you'll have to install these hangers into the bolt, holding on your leaf springs here. It's not a huge job at all, but it is something worth noting going into it. I'm gonna take you guys through every step of the process. So, let's get started.Tools used in this install include an impact gun, a ratchet, extension, 13, 15, and 18-millimeter deep sockets, 21-millimeter ratcheting wrench, and a mallet. Now, the first step here for the uninstall is to grab a 13-millimeter swivel socket, I find to be the easiest solution. If you do have a short socket, a 13-millimeter short socket, that will also do the trick. I think this just makes life a little bit easier. What we're gonna do is remove the two 13-millimeter bolts holding on this factory flange right behind our resonator. Now, once we have those to removed, we'll basically remove one other bracket holding an isolator to the frame. And from there, we'll be able to pop everything out with our hanger removal tool. So, step number one, let's get these two bolts out.So, now I've got my 10-millimeter swivel socket, I'm gonna remove these two bolts. You wanna keep in mind that this is gonna start to lose some of its weight. So, you want to have a hand on it, so it doesn't drop down on top of you, but there are still a lot of points of connection. The next step, I'm gonna use a hanger removal tool just to make life a whole lot easier to just pinch and pop out all these hangers from the isolators on the frame. I got my buddy, Andrew, here to help me out because it will come down all in one piece. Now, if you're working on the ground, it's not too big of a problem, you just have it fall right on the cement, but we have it up in the air, I don't wanna get bonked in the head, so I'm gonna use this and my buddy to help me out here. So, we're gonna pinch this out, pull it out in one piece.So, it seems like all of our hangers are pretty rusted. They're giving me a lot of trouble. So, what I'm gonna do is treat them just like we treated our first bracket, just use my 10-millimeter socket. I'll remove all the bolts holding them from the frame and bring them down and remove them off the truck, might make lives a little bit easier. If yours are coming out of the hanger isolators, that's great. But for us, giving us a little trouble, so we'll just pop them all off of the frame.Now, we finally got our factory exhaust off of our 2011 3.5 F-150 on the ground here next to our Borla Stinger S-Type. A lot of very clear differences between the two and some similarities. So, I wanted to take you through just a couple of those things, starting from the front, working our way back. Now, up front, you'll notice that the biggest difference here is gonna be the lack of a resonator. Our factory exhaust has this resonator right here, right behind where it connects to your downpipe. On our new Borla, it does not. What that's gonna do is eliminate some of the air restriction, giving you access to a little bit more power and torque, but it'll also stop minimizing the volume and tone that this could otherwise produce. So, you'll expect a different tone without that resonator and a little bit more power. Other than that, though, this inlet pipe is going to have a 3-inch diameter. With that said, it leads right up to our Borla Stinger S-Type muffler, a lot smaller than our factory one, has factory locations for the hangers, and otherwise, it's gonna be the cause of all of that sound we heard in our sound clip earlier on. The Borla Stinger is that middle of the line option. There's the Borla Touring, the Stinger, and the ATAK. So, being the middle of the line option, it's something that gets a little bit more aggressive than stock without going too overboard. I really like the Stinger S-Type, I've had it on some of my personal cars. I'm a big fan of Borla's work here. And the whole thing is a 304 stainless steel exhaust, mandrel-bent, so, you know, you're not getting some of those kink air restrictions you get from your factory exhaust. And it's worth noting that with the 3-inch inlet, and they split off into 2.25-inch outlet pipes for our dual exit, which in itself is our biggest change here. So, instead of the single side exit dumping right behind your rear passenger side tire, they're gonna go straight out the back under the tailgate on both the passenger and driver side, both with a 3.5 to 4-inch polished stainless steel tip, all, again, 304 stainless steel. So, a lot of the high-quality materials, exactly what we'd expect from Borla. And I'm a big fan of the dual rear exit, I think it's a lot more aggressive. So, what we're gonna do is install this piece by piece. It's not a big one-piece design, like our factory option. But if you remember, ours were giving us a little bit of trouble. So, I'm gonna pop those hangers off-car and put them right back on, and we'll bolt them up to the frame. So, that's step number one. Step number two is our inlet pipe.First step in the install here, once we transfer over the bracket to the frame, which we have done already, is to install our inlet pipe. Now, we're basically gonna use our factory 13-millimeter bolts and reconnect it to this stock flange. Now, when you tighten these down, you wanna make sure you're tightening one side at a time, just do a little bit, and then a little bit back and forth. You don't want one side to be lopsided. You want to do them both evenly. So, grab your 13 socket, my case I'm gonna use the swivel again and tighten these down. All right. So, a little bit on that side, a little bit on this side. Just wanna make sure it's getting nice and even. Next step is our adapter pipe. Now, this is gonna go right into our factory hanger that we reinstalled onto our frame here. Slide the hanger in first, prop this up. You wanna make sure you have a clamp on one end here. Once you have this in, keep clamping it down, shuffle it all the way back. Once it's seated all the way back, rotate this up, grab a 15-millimeter deep socket and tighten that down.Next up is our muffler and our over axle pipe. So, you wanna make sure you're putting that hanger right into the isolator on our subframe, right above our rear diff. You also wanna make sure you have a clamp on the inlet side. All right, once you have the muffler hung up, make sure you have a clamp on the inlet side. Let's connect it to our pipe. All right, now we can tighten down our clamp. The next step is gonna be to install our 2.25-inch pipe that's gonna extend over to our driver side. Make sure you have the 2.25-inch clamp on the inlet side, gonna just pop this on. You don't need it to go all the way up. What we're gonna do also is grab a 15 socket and just get this clamp nice and snug while still leaving enough room to, you know, adjust it and to adapt to our tailpipe. So, first, let's grab our socket. We'll get this nice and snug.Now, the next step here is to remove the nut holding the leaf spring to the frame. Now, this bolt goes straight through and has the 21-millimeter nut on this side. Now, we wanna leave the bolt through. We're gonna take this nut out, and we're gonna install a bracket. Now that bracket we're installing is gonna house a isolator, which is gonna connect to the hanger on our exhaust tailpipe. I know that sounds confusing, but it's actually very, very simple. We're gonna take this nut off, put the bracket on the stud and then put the nut right back on, really simple stuff. Grab a 21-millimeter wrench and an 18 socket, and we're gonna take the nut off. Remember, leave the bolt through, just take that nut off. All right. So, now we can take that hanger, put it right over the stud and just reinstall that nut. Tighten it all the way down by hand. All right. Grab those socket and wrench again and tighten that back down. Now we can torque the bolt down once it's under load, but once you get it nice and tight, we can install the isolator over that hanger. All right. So, here's that isolator. We're gonna slide that right over the end. Now, it might make your life a little easier if you hit the inside of that isolator with some PB B'laster or WD-40, slides right on, just like it did for me. Now, repeat this for the other side.All right. There's really only two steps left. We're gonna install our driver side tailpipe, and then we're gonna install our passenger side. Just make sure you're installing the clamps before you go any further. I'm gonna slide that over that pipe there, set it into place on the over axle pipe, and then we'll reattach the hanger to the isolator. Now, if you need to, of course, use that PB B'laster or WD-40 to make it a little easier on yourself. All right. Once you have the isolator and hanger installed on your passenger side, just repeat that with the tailpipe. All right. Grab your 15 socket and tighten down the clamp.That's gonna wrap up my review, install and sound clip for the Borla Stinger S-Type dual rear exit cat-back exhaust for '11 to '14, 3.5 F-150s. If you want to get this for 1000 bucks, you can do so right here at americantrucks.com.

      Product Information

      Features, Description, Reviews, Q&A, Specs & Installation

      Features & Specs

      • Aggressive Exhaust Note
      • Stinger "S-Type" Muffler
      • Durable Stainless Steel Construction
      • 3 in. Inlet, Dual 2.25 in. Outlet Mandrel-Bent Steel Tubing
      • 4 in. Polished 304 Stainless Steel Tips
      • Exits at the Rear of the Truck
      • Fits 2011-2014 3.5L EcoBoost F-150s
      • Designed for SuperCabs with a 6.5 ft. Bed & SuperCrews with a 5.5 ft. Bed

      Description

      Intimidating Tone. The Borla Stinger S-Type Split Rear Exit Dual Exhaust System is designed to give your 3.5L EcoBoost F-150 an increase in exhaust tone compared to the factory exhaust system. Borla, includes their signature Stinger "S-Type" Muffler to filter sounds. This allows you to rev your engine and hear the growl you want without losing your hearing while you sit in the cab.

      With Power to Match. Of course, sound is important but the power of your Ford F-150 has to at least match. With this system, you won't have to worry about a lack of torque or horsepower behind your back wheels. In fact, you can even depend on the fact that your fuel consumption will decrease.

      Constructed with Stainless Steel. The use of stainless steel in this system is more than just classy looking. In fact, it is one of the best decisions for a system like this. Unlike other options, it is rust and corrosion resistant, making it well and able to stand up to any abuse that an exhaust system regularly undergoes.

      Easy Replacement. To install this, all you will need is some basic hand tools and time - everything else comes included with your new exhaust system. You don't even need to trim or weld the system - it should fit your truck perfectly! It only takes a total of 2 hours to install as well.

      Application. This Borla Stinger S-Type Split Rear Exit Cat-Back Exhaust System is designed to fit on the 2011-2014 3.5L EcoBoost F-150s with the following cab and bed sizes.

      • SuperCab with the 6.5 ft. Bed
      • SuperCrew with the 5.5 ft. Bed

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      Fitment:

      Details

      Borla 140466

      CA Residents: WARNING: Cancer and Reproductive Harm - www.P65Warnings.ca.gov

      Installation & What's in the Box

      Installation Info

      What's in the Box

      • (1) Front Muffler Assembly
      • (1) Midpipe Assembly
      • (1) Mid Muffler Assembly
      • (1) Tail Pipe Assembly - Passenger Side
      • (1) Tail Pipe Assembly - Driver Side
      • (1) Intermediate Pipe
      • (2) Hanger/Bracket Assembly
      • (2) 3.00" Clamp
      • (3) 2.25" Clamp
      • (2) M10 x 1.50 Nut
      • (2) M10 x 60mm Screw
      • (2) Rubber Hanger

      4.9

      Customer Reviews (274)

        Questions & Answers

        10 More Questions

        Will It Fit My F-150

        • 3.5L V6 EcoBoost - 11, 12, 13, 14

        Designed for SuperCabs with a 6.5 ft. Bed and SuperCrews with a 5.5 ft. Bed

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