(approx) 6 Hours
Mechanical expertise or professional installation required.
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Justin: The Pro-Plus Suspension Kit from Eibach here should appeal to the '94 to '04 V8 owners, along with the '99 to '04 V6 owners out there, who are looking to completely change the handling of their ride, thanks to a few key components, but really aren't interested in going with a huge drop compared to the stock springs or maybe other aftermarket options. Now, this kit does include a set of sway bars for both front and rear, set of brand new dampers, again, front and rear, along with the very popular Pro-Kit springs, which are gonna offer a pretty mild drop for your SN95, for around 1100 bucks.Now, the site does call this a full-blown three out of three wrenches on the difficulty meter here, which I feel is a bit extreme, as most owners should be able to get this stuff knocked out in half a day or so from start to finish. But, as always, guys, be sure to hang till the end of the video, and we'll show you how it's done.But first things first, guys, let's start with that drop, because this particular kit, again, is going to feature the more modest Pro-Kit lowering spring, which will deliver a smaller drop compared to Eibach's Sport-Plus system, also available on the site, that's going to be built around the Sportline lowering springs. Now, the Pro-Kit springs here are gonna deliver a drop of 1.3 inches for the front, 1.5 inches for the rear, so, smaller drop overall, especially when compared to the more aggressive 2 inches of the Sportline lowering springs. Now, if you did prefer more of that aggressive drop, again, you can grab the Sport-System-Plus here on the site, which is basically gonna swap out your Pro-Kit springs for those Sportlines. Grab it on the site for a very similar price. Now, the Pro-Kit springs that we do have here, guys, do feature that progressive or multi-rate spring design, which is something I always think is a great choice for streetcars, because that softer initial spring rate is gonna be relatively comfortable for cruising, but, once you start pushing the car hard and start rolling into that firmer rate, these things do tend to firm up, obviously, and that's where you're gonna be reducing some of that roll even further.Now, specific spring rates for the Pro-Kit springs do include 502, the 570 pounds for the fronts, and 171 to 314 pounds for the rear. But along with that improved roll control from the springs themselves, you're also gonna see subtle improvements in things like weight transfer, front to back and back to front. So, basically, less dive when you're really hammering on those brakes, and less squat when you're really launching hard. But one thing I do really enjoy about this kit from Eibach is that they do pair up their Pro-Kit springs with their Pro-Damper shocks and struts. Now, this is gonna be a great turnkey kit for that reason, because the reality is throwing a Pro-Kit spring on a set of high mileage factory dampers is really only asking for a bad time, right. Rough ride, poor performance, things like that.Now, Eibach recognized that fact, especially with the older SN95, and completed the Pro-System with their tuned dampers. The reality of the situation is, guys, the Eibach shocks and struts are just better suited to handle the stresses of that slightly lower ride height and firmer spring rate, and therefore will produce a better ride quality in addition to improved handling overall, especially when paired up with the included sway bars. But what do you say we talk about those sway bars a little bit more, because, again, the Sport-Plus Kit does include these set of Eibach front and rear bars here. The rear bar itself is two-way adjustable, while the front is non-adjustable, and overall a solid improvement over the bars you are replacing. In fact, you're gonna be looking at a 35-millimeter tubular bar for the front, and a 25-millimeter solid rear bar. Now, the tubular front bar is nice because it will save a little bit of weight compared to a super-heavy solid option, but without really compromising rigidity. But by upgrading both the front and rear bars, in addition to the dampers, springs, all that good stuff, the car is just gonna be more responsive, certainly will be flatter in turns, thanks to the drastically reduced body roll. But, at the same time, the car should help rotate through those turns a little bit better as well.Now, in my opinion, this is a welcome change, because from the factory, I think these cars had the slightest bit of understeering tendencies, or they can tend to push through the turn a little bit, whereas with the bigger bar set up properly, the car again will just enjoy a more neutral balance, maybe even the slightest bit of oversteer, depending on how you set things up, which is really just gonna make the car a lot more fun to drive. Now, before we get into the install, I do want to point out that the Eibach sway bars here have been made in the USA from cold-formed, high-strength aircraft-grade steel, then finished off in the red powder coat, whereas the Pro-Kit springs are given their traditional black powder coat, and that's just to help prevent any corrosion over the years. Now, the Eibach option does also include a lot of nice extras, including rear links, greasable polyurethane bushings, but does not include any front end links, along with new spring isolators, which, if I can be completely honest, I'd highly recommend grabbing for the SN95, as your factory isolators are probably trashed after 15 to 20 years or so.Now, getting to the installation, as promised, and again, guys, the site did kick this one up to a soft three out of three wrenches on the difficulty meter, which some of you might think is a bit extreme, but if you've never done this kind of work before, it might be a bit of an adventure for you. However, to give you a detailed idea of what you're in for, here is that walkthrough we promised, in addition to a tool breakdown.Male: Tools used for this installation, 3/8 impact, 3/8 air impact, and a 1/2-inch air impact, 1/2-inch drive, 3/8-inch drive, various extensions, a universal swivel, push pin removal tool, various pry bars, a socket set ranging from 8 millimeters all the way up to 24, we have a lug socket here, vise grips, a ball peen hammer, a wrench set ranging from 6 all the way up to 24, and a bungee cord. Not pictured on the table will be a jack and jack stands. In our case, we used a lift.All right, so we're gonna start on the rear. I have the vehicle up in the air. I'm gonna take the wheels off just to make that axle a lot lighter. All right, guys, so our first step is I'm gonna get the factory sway bar out of the way. We're gonna pop these wheel speed sensors out of that loom right there, and I have a 13-millimeter socket on my 3/8 impact.Just gonna let this bracket hang right here out of the way. We're gonna do this on both sides. Now, you will need to support the sway bar when you get to the other side, because it's just gonna drop out when you take those two bolts out. All right, now that we have our sway bar underneath removed, we are going to get into our trunk to access the top of our shocks. It's really simple, we just have to take apart a little bit of our trunk and the liner to expose that nut on top of the shock.All right, to start, we're gonna take our floor liner and push this forward and kind of out of the way. We're gonna do one side at a time. This way, it'll give us enough room to move this backing a little over. Now we're gonna take a push pin removal tool and go after these push pins holding on this little trim piece for our trunk latch. Now, these are Christmas tree type push pin. Take this piece and put this to the side. Now we can remove our trunk liner here. Set that over to the side and get after underneath here. All right, guys, now that we have access to our top shock nut in the rear, I have a 15-millimeter ratcheting wrench and a 7-millimeter regular wrench. The 15 ratchet is gonna go right on top, and the 7 is gonna go on the top to hold it in place while we loosen up this nut. All right, guys, now, before I completely remove the nut on the top of the shock, I do have a jack underneath the rear differential. The car is still on the lift, but we don't have the tires on there, so we can't rest this back on the body weight. So what I'm gonna do is just lift up on this jack, then we'll go back to the nut and you can see it actually separating from the body mount there. So now I'm gonna remove the rest of it, go under the other side, remove that nut, and then we can drop that axle back down and get these struts to clear the body.I'm gonna go to the other side and get that one off. All right, now I'm gonna lower this jack and lower the rear differential. You should see the shocks coming out. They may not go all the way. We will have to remove our upper control arm mount here just to get a little more travel to get our shock and our spring out.All right, guys, so I have the Mustang back up in the air. I have two pole jacks, one on each side of the differential. Now I'm gonna be removing our shocks and getting those out of the way. I have a 15-millimeter socket on this side and an 18-millimeter wrench on this side. Gonna set these aside. We're not gonna be reusing these. All right, guys, now we're gonna be removing our rear links. I have an 18-millimeter deep socket on my 3/8 air impact. Now again, I have these supported with a pole jack so this should just slide right off. I'm gonna do that on both sides. All right, now once we have our little quad shock up here disconnected, we are going to lower the rear axle down. I'm gonna do this as even as possible with both these pole jacks and we're gonna lower this just enough so we can get that spring out of its perch.Now I'm just gonna hook into one of these coils. Be careful of your speed sensor line here. And I'm just gonna take it out like that. Now, you'll see my rubber isolator just popped off. We're gonna put this on our new one as well. Let's get the other side out now. All right, guys, so I have the factory one in my hand, and this is the new one. I'm gonna take this rubber isolator off the top, put it on the new one, make sure it's seated all the way around. All right, guys, I'm just gonna slip the coil in there, bring the axle down. Now, one thing we have to make sure is that the back of this coil, the bottom of this coil, is facing towards the rear. Our next step is to bring down this rear snubber, and what this is basically is a bump stop for our rear differential. Since we are lowering the vehicle down, we have to make this a little lower. Our kit does include a new little snubber now. So I have an 8-mil on a very long extension, and a universal. Gonna remove these three 8-mils. All right, guys, I'm gonna take a 13-mil and a deep socket to get rid of this old bump stop. All right, so now we're gonna take our new snubber and our 15-mil nyloc nut here and start it up. So it's nice and tight. Now it's ready to install in the car. All right, now we're gonna bring our little bracket back into place and I'm gonna start these 8-millimeter machine screws into there. Start those and finish them off with our 8-mil.All right, now we can get our shocks on and move to the front. All right, guys, so I have our stock shock here and our new Eibach shock. There are a couple of parts we have to swap over, like this isolator on the bottom, and the top one. We are gonna reuse our hardware in the bottom as well, so let's get that off. Now, for the Eibach stuff we are gonna have to cut this, and it's gonna start expanding on us. Don't worry about that. We're gonna have to get it back into our hole up there, but we're gonna put our factory isolators on here. Just let me get a knife and cut this. As you can see it expand right there. That's fine. We're gonna slide the isolator and the little cup over the new shaft there, get this into position. Put our bolt through, get our nut on this side. And repeat this on both sides. All right, so we're putting our sway bar into place here. If you have an extra hand... I just rested it on that pole jack there. If you have an extra hand, definitely would help. Just gonna get our bolts in so that doesn't fall on us. And go on the other side here. My bolts are there. And make sure that we're putting our parking brake bracket back into place. All right, guys, so we have to slip our nuts through this little space right here on the back side of our sway bar. So what I have here is a 14-mil wrench, and I'm gonna push my bolt into that nut and attempt to start it.All right, now that that's tight, we're gonna do that on the other side as well. All right, now, before we lower the vehicle back down to tighten down our top shock mount, we are gonna tighten down the bottom. Again it's a 15-mil on the outside and an 18-millimeter nut. All right, with the vehicle back close down to the ground, it's not completely on the ground just yet, there are a few things you have to do. I have the jack underneath the pumpkin, and I'm gonna jack up on it slowly. This is already through the hole for the trunk, and when we bring that axle up, we can get this quad shock back into there. Yours may or may not be equipped with it, just depending on if it's a convertible or a V6 or a GT. So let's get the axle back up in the air. You should see that gap start to close a little bit. And I'm gonna go on the other side, make sure that my shaft is going through the hole. There it is there. Now I'm not gonna jack up on it so much that the car comes off the lift, just enough that I can get threads showing through, which, looks like it is. All right, let's get the top of the shock nut on there with the rubber isolator. Make sure that that is threading on the right way.All right, guys, now that you have the top of the shock fastened down, we can put our little quad shock back in place. This is the best time to do it when you have the jack underneath the pumpkin. You can manipulate the height of the axle. You can just slam that home, make sure that the collar stays in there. We're gonna put our washer back over top and our 18-millimeter nut, and tighten that down. Do that on both sides. All right, now moving on to the front, we're gonna take both of our front wheels off, get it back up in the air, and get our front sway bar out of there. All right, so now that we have our vehicle up in the air, we're gonna separate our end link from our sway bar itself. I have a 10-millimeter wrench just on the shaft here of the end link, and a deep 15 on the top. I'm going to take this off and get that on the other side as well. All right, now with both the nuts off the end links on both sides, we can rotate this sway bar out of the way. We're gonna remove these completely, because our new Eibach kit comes with new end links. So again, we're gonna put our 10-mil on the shaft, and then from underneath, remove the links. All right, guys, now we're gonna be taking our sway bar completely out and replacing it with our new Eibach. I have a 16-mil deep socket on my impact and I'm going to remove these nuts. All right, so you have two on each side. I'm going to use my one arm to support the sway bar so it doesn't come flying out when I remove these two. Get it past these power steering lines.All right, guys, now that we have our sway bar out, I have it on the ground, and you can see the difference just in our Eibach and our old one. This is a lot thicker, which is gonna have a lot more rigidity. We have to move these mounts over. So what I've found, a secret trick to doing this is you're gonna squeeze this bracket together, and it'll slide right out. Slide that out as well. Then you can take your new bushing, put it around your new sway bar. You have to press it in there. And a tight squeeze, but it'll look like that. Slide your bracket in there to lock it in place. And that's ready to be installed on the car. We're gonna do that on the other side as well. Now that's ready to be installed in the car. All right, let's get the sway bar into place. It's gonna go in the same way it came out. Gonna snake this end past our power steering lines and into place. This, of course, has to go through that right there. We're gonna slide our brackets through those little...our studs through the bracket there. Have one end supported with my head, the other end with my arm. And I'm just gonna start my nuts to make sure it doesn't fall. We're gonna do the same on the other side. And I'm gonna grab our bracket that just fell, place that back in.All right, now with the sway bar in and where we want it, let's tighten down these nuts. All right, we're still on the driver's side. What we're gonna do now is remove our brake caliper bracket. Now, that holds our caliper on to the spindle itself. It's on by two 15-millimeter bolts. There's one there, and there's one just on the top behind the caliper itself. All right, so now we're gonna take these bolts out and we're gonna hang the caliper in a safe spot right on top of our K-member. Slide the caliper straight back off of the rotor. I'm just using a bungee cord and I'm gonna bungee this brake caliper out of the way, just so we don't have any strain on our brake lines. I'm gonna do this on both sides.All right, now we're gonna take our rotor off, and then we're gonna be using a push pin removal tool to take off our ABS or wheel speed sensor. There's that. And we gained a little more slack here on this little loop here. Gonna pull this out. And that should be enough, because we have to next go into the hood and undo the bolts for our spindle here on our strut, and then that way we can get the vehicle back down on the ground, get a jack underneath this lower control arm, and get this spring out as well. All right, guys, I brought a floor jack in to put on the bottom of our control arm, because our next step is to get the struts separated from our spindle. So we're gonna be taking a 21 and a 24-millimeter to these two bolts on the back side of here. First I'm gonna remove this ABS bracket. That was only on by a little 24-mil nut. Just like that. Set that off to the side. Now, with the jack underneath of the lower control arm, when we take these bolts out, the lower control arm is not gonna want to just rocket down and shoot that spring out. That would be very dangerous, so we're gonna be taking our time here and making sure that all the load is on this jack.All right, so I have a 24-millimeter socket on this back side, and a 21 on this side. I'm gonna remove the bolt. Make sure you save this. We're gonna be reusing it on the new strut. We're gonna remove this nut, kind of slide our spindle out of the way. All right, guys, now I'm gonna take a 15-millimeter socket, set that off to the side, and I'm going to remove one of the nuts and leave one of the nuts just hanging on by two threads. All right, now you're gonna start to see the shock drop down a little bit. I'm gonna use my other hand underneath to support. Now I'm going to just completely remove that nut, and slide our strut assembly out of the way. All right, so now that we have our strut out of the way, we can start lowering our jack little bit by little bit to decompress that spring enough to remove it. So again, be very careful. I'm going very slowly. All right, so I have my pry bar. I'm going to carefully go underneath here between the pert and the spring. Go right there, and remove our spring. Now, we're gonna keep this isolator and install it on our new one. And this one we may do as well. All right, guys, now that we have the stock spring and the new Eibach spring next to each other, I went ahead and put our isolators on the bottom and the top. We're gonna put this spring away, and go ahead and get this one in there. I have my pry bar already set up on the other side of the lower control arm so I can press down with my foot here, and hopefully just snake this in. You'll see the pocket here. That is where your spring is gonna go. I'm gonna clean this out a little bit. I'll try to get the top in first. I'm gonna go get another pry bar and hopefully pry this up and in there.All right, guys, now, I brought both of our struts onto the table. This is our old one. We have to get this 21-millimeter nut off there, and put this top hat onto our new strut. So I'm hoping I don't need to use a wrench and a large flathead on here, I can just hit it with my impact. Let's cross our fingers, see if this comes off. All right, guys, so I have a couple of little mini pry bars here. This is just the fattest kind of flat head I had, so I'm putting that right on the top there. And I have my 21, and I'm just going to back off these last couple threads. We're gonna steal this bushing and this top hat right here, put that on our new one. All right, guys, now that we have our old strut off the table, I did take one more part off it, this dust boot, and the little lower mount for the top hat. So we're gonna install our bump stop onto the bottom here, bring our dust boot into place, and then we're gonna slide our top mount down with our bushing cap. And we are going to tighten down this 24-millimeter nut. All right, guys, unfortunately, my impact wouldn't set that nut on there, so I have a 10-millimeter in one hand, and a big 24-millimeter wrench in the other, so what we're gonna do now is tighten up this top nut. We just want to get a few threads showing, we don't want to over-tighten this. All right, that's tight enough right there, nothing's moving. We still have that whole flexibility, so when we get it up in there, we can just set that top hat and get those nuts and that bolt back in. Let's install this on the car now.All right, so we have our new strut assembly ready to go in. What we're gonna do now is just get it close to where we need to go and then look at the top, and we can get our nuts started and our bolt back in the top, so let's do that now. So I'm just starting my nuts here on the top, then I'll run them down with my impact here in a second. All right, so we can still turn this around and get it into the spot we need it to go. I have the jack still underneath the control arm with a little bit of a load of that spring, so now we can start cranking up on that and getting our spindle back into the place it needs to be. This needs to go a little that way. And we need to get a little plate. They have a little shim or a spacer that'll go in between here to make up some of that space. All right, guys, so I'm just gonna start jacking up on this to get our spring compressed a little bit more, and to get our spindle back into its place. We are doing this on a lift, so I'm being careful not to get it off the K member there or the back of the body. If you're doing this on jack stands, do the same thing. Make sure you keep an eye on your jack stand and watch if the body separates from that, take a little more tension off of it. This is the spacer I was talking about. It's gonna sit in the back there, so the flat edge to the flat edge of that little bracket. Get one of my bolts, we are gonna be reusing our stock hardware. This is the nut end. Remember we had that bracket we gotta put on for our ABS line here. Start the bottom one as well. Put my nuts in there just to keep what I got. Again, we're gonna be reusing our stock hardware, so on the back side, we have that 24-millimeter nut and our 21-millimeter bolt in the back. So let's tighten this up.So here's that bracket. It says left hand on it, and the other one will be right hand. Again, all the steps you see on this side, we're gonna be performing on the other. Then we can reinstall all of our ABS lines back onto that bracket. Next, we're gonna put our sway bar back into place, our rotor, caliper, then we'll go to the other side. All right, so with our spindle nuts in, we should be able to remove this jack, take all the pressure off the lower control arm. It shouldn't go too far, because it is, again, locked into place. All right, so now we're gonna bring in our new sway bar end link. You gotta kind of disassemble this thing. It is basically a one long bolt. So we're gonna take this sleeve and the bottom bushing off as well. I'm gonna slide this right over the top, bring our bushing, our little washer/end cap for the bushing, our sleeve, followed up by another washer. We're gonna put that into the lower control arm [inaudible 00:32:30]. May need to bring the jack back and jack up a little bit on that lower control arm. Now you don't want to cover the hole you're about to put the sway bar end link into.All right, that should do it. Then I'm gonna get on the underside of it, put that bushing and that cap on, and then that nut. Then I need a 15 on the top and a 15 on the bottom, and we'll tighten that and cinch that down. All right, so I have the bushing on the top there. There we go, that just came through. All right, guys, so I have a 15-millimeter wrench on the top here and a 15-mil impact. We're gonna tighten these sway bar end links down now. You want to get a nice squish out of them. That's how you know they're tight. All right, guys, so the next step, we're gonna put our rotor and caliper back on the rotor. Set it right on its studs there. Make sure it's past that centric hub, and take our little bungee cord off of here. Bring the caliper back in place, make sure the pads are sitting correctly.Now I have the bolts in my hand. These are the two 15-millimeter bolts we took out. Once it's started, get a wrench on it and finish it up. And now's a good time to recheck everything, make sure you have all your brackets in place, your brake lines are free. All right, now we're gonna repeat everything that you just saw on the other side.All right, guys, that's gonna wrap up my install of this Eibach Pro-System-Plus, and for all things Mustang, keep it here at americanmuscle.com.
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(approx) 6 Hours
Mechanical expertise or professional installation required.
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