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Eibach Pro-System Suspension Kit (11-21 R/T)

Item CH1144
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$837.00 (kit)

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      Video Review & Installation

      Hey guys, Adam here with And today we're taking a closer look at and of course installing the Eibach Pro-System suspension kit available for the '11 and newer RT Challenger. You should be checking this out if you're looking for a little bit more of an inclusive lowering spring kit that has shocks and struts included to give you a nice aggressive ride stance but also gives you a better suspension and handling capability, especially when taking on those hard corners. Now, this particular Pro-System from Eibach uses a lowering spring that's gonna give you a one-and-a-half inch drop at all four corners, which is what you can see here. Now we all know the Challengers come with a pretty unsightly wheel gap off the factory line, so really any lowering spring is gonna make a huge difference. This one-and-a-half inch kit is really that sweet spot for guys looking to get a nice aggressive stance, but nothing too too low like some of the other options in the category. Now the Pro-System here from Eibach has the front struts and rear shocks, like I said, which are specifically designed for lowered applications. Lowering springs by themselves can be a little bit more affordable, but when you pair those with the factory front struts and rear shocks that aren't really meant for lowered applications, you can really start to deteriorate those shocks and struts a little bit quicker than you originally would on a stock ride height. So upgrading to a kit like this here, the Pro-System from Eibach can sort of round out the suspension all together at once without having to do it again later.Now if you're looking to take it even a step farther, the Pro-System-Plus kit is an option for guys who are looking to do sway bars as well. Same springs, same front struts and rear shocks, but it also includes the anti-roll bars. That'll help definitely reduce body roll around cornering as the Eibach sway bars included in that kit are adjustable. Now this particular kit with just the springs, shocks and struts does go a long way to help you with your cornering abilities. Anytime you lower the center of gravity on your Challenger, you're getting a better suspension and handling performance and you're gonna help reduce body roll and attack corners with a lot more stability. Now the Challengers with the factory ride height contend to feel like a little bit of a boat. When you take corners, it really does rock and roll. But with a lowering kit like this, it can make all the difference. Now this also uses a spring that has a progressive spring rate. Now progressive spring rates, unlike linear springs are gonna give you a nice comfortable ride quality at normal driving conditions but they get progressively stiffer and sportier under heavier loads, such as hard launches, for example, or taking hard corners. Now linear springs are predictable in any circumstance, they don't change the spring rate depending on ride, it's all gonna be the exact same performance every time, which is typically the choice of guys hitting the drag strip more often than not. But if you're looking for the best of both worlds, typically a progressive spring is the way to go, which is what you get here.Now this kit is coming in right around 850 bucks, again, not the cheapest option in the category because it does include upgraded struts and shocks, but still not too expensive that it's gonna break the bank. Now the install for this I'm gonna give three out of three wrenches on our difficulty meter, not because it involves any drilling or modification like that. It does require some specialty tools like a spring compressor. Now spring compressors can be pretty dangerous if you don't know what you're doing. And if you haven't done one before, I recommend handing it over to a professional to get it done properly or have a helping hand on deck that can help you through the process. Now I'm gonna show you every step of the process it'll take you about three, maybe four hours from start to finish depending on your personal experience with something like this. It does require a few extra tools to have on deck. I'm gonna show you everything. Let's get started.Tools using this install including air impact gun, cordless impact, pry bar and a hammer, ratchet extension, 8-millimeter swivel socket and deep socket, 10 and 13-millimeter deep sockets, 13-millimeter swivel socket, 15 deep 16-millimeter swivel and deep sockets, 18, 21, and 22-millimeter deep sockets, universal swivel joints both half inch and three-eighths. 15 and 18-millimeter wrenches, 16 and 15-millimeter ratcheting wrenches are recommended, and not shown on the table is a hydraulic floor jack and a spring compressor. First up we're gonna get our wheels out of the way. Our factory lug nuts here are 22-millimeter so I got my impact gun. I'm using air tools for this but if you don't have air tools, of course a lug wrench works just as well. This is just gonna make life a little easier.All right. Next up, we're gonna disconnect some of the ABS lines here so we don't put too much stress on them as we remove some suspension components. Now these are just rubber. Just gonna pull straight off on that guy. There's two more clips on your brake lines as well. I'm just gonna disconnect those to give it a little bit more slack. Next up, we're gonna disconnect our sway bar end link from the struct body. Now this is a 21-millimeter nut. Now using air tools, it can be a little easier but if you're using an impact gun, it might start spinning the bearing in which case you wanna be able to hold on to the backside with something to keep it from spinning.All right. So now you can pull the sway bar end link out of the strut body, and I like to just put that nut back on just to keep it safe, you know, so we don't lose it. What I just did was I put a pry bar right on the other side of the spacer to put a little tension on it as I took it off to keep it from spinning. Next up we're gonna tackle the nut holding our upper control arm to the knuckle itself. Now this is an 18-millimeter nut. And what we're gonna do is use a swivel socket on my impact gun or you can use a ratcheting wrench, that'll work as well. We're gonna work this guy off.It might also be a good idea to put a pry bar on the spring and pry down on it so it doesn't shoot off. All right. We're gonna keep this on a couple of threads just to make sure we can disconnect these two without it shooting off. So just put the nut on a couple of threads. So now I'm gonna pry up to disconnect the ball joint here. So now we can pry back down, take that nut off and work this off easily. Just guide the knuckle back down. And I'm just gonna throw the nut back on so we don't lose it.All right. Use that same 18-millimeter socket and we'e gonna remove the bolt holding on at the factory strut to the bottom control arm here, the lower control arm. Now that the nut is already on the body so we don't need a wrench on the other side, but I am gonna keep my hand here to keep it from popping off too quickly. All right. Next up, we're under the hood because we have to remove the three nuts holding on the top of the strut tower. I'm gonna twist off this cap here and I'm gonna shut that right onto our cowl there. Now that will expose the back two there, these are 13-millimeter, so grab your impact gun and your socket and get those three off.Now as you remove the third one, the strut's gonna fall straight through so you wanna have a hand on it to get it off. All right. Now that you have a hand on it, you can push down on the suspension assembly there to pull the strut away from the lower control arm and then off of the vehicle. All right. So we got the front suspension taken apart, we have the strut here on the table next to our Eibach Pro kit.Now I wanna show you guys some similarities and differences between the two. And visually, not a whole lot to look at that's different both springs are black, they're progressive versus linear, I'll touch on in a second. And the only big difference there otherwise would be the black powder coating versus the yellow Bilsteins. Now of course some other Challenger models that aren't the RT we have here may not have Bilstein struts. These are a little bit upgraded from the factory but still not specifically built for lowered applications. They work well with the factory spring but once you start throwing in a lowering spring, they can wear out a little bit faster than they would with a factory.So now we have this upgraded strut here and the strut is going to use a gas mono tube strut design. It's got a much better compression and rebound rate, again, specifically curated to the lowered application here from Eibach, and that's what they're known for. Now, this spring here, of course is going to be a lot different than the factory spring aside from the height which of course is gonna lower you about an inch and a half, it's also gonna give you a completely different spring rate. Your factory spring is linear, like I said earlier, and you can easily identify a linear spring by seeing that the coils are evenly spaced out all the way down.Progressive springs, on the other hand gives you a nice comfortable ride under normal driving conditions, but of course, they're gonna stiffen up progressively as you get on it a little harder. So under harder launches, track days, if you're treating it like a weekend warrior, carving corners a little bit harder, it gets a little bit stiffer and reacts to those specific driving situations. So that's what you're gonna get with this Eibach spring, and of course on top of that, it lowers at about an inch and a half. With all that said, we are gonna reinstall this onto our new strut, but we do have to head over to the spring compressor to take our factory spring off in order to take our top hat with it. So we're gonna have to reuse that.Now if your isolators are looking a little worse for wear, it's a good time to upgrade them as well, and I'll talk about that a little bit later on when we get to the spring compressor. Once that's taken care of, we'll install the spring on the new strut which typically doesn't require a spring compressor because this is a little bit of a shorter spring so the stud is gonna come to the top a little bit easier. Again, let's head over to the spring compressor and get to work.All right. So next up here, we're set up at our spring compressor. Now I've got the bottom coil set up into the spring compressor arms. But I wanna say if you're working on this at home by yourself, just use extreme caution. This can be very dangerous if not done properly. So I got the bottom set up. This factory strut those have this rubber spacer at the top, so you got to take that guy off along with the flat washer to expose the nut there and that's an 18-millimeter.So now what we're gonna do is set up the top. So the top I'm actually gonna take these arms right to the strut hat for a little bit more security. All right. So I'm gonna bring this down. Now before you start compressing, you just wanna make sure everything is done properly, you wanna make sure the springs at the bottom, the coils are set into the arms properly. All right. So now we can compress. Now when you wanna compress, you wanna do that slowly. You're putting, basically you're taking the tension off of the top hat by compressing the spring so it takes that tension off of this top here. And then we're gonna take the nut off and then slowly decompress to take it apart.So that should be enough compression there to take that stress off of that nut. So now all you can do is take our 18 socket, I'm gonna use an extension and a swivel, put it right through the top here and take that off. Now once you crack that nut loose you'll see that the strut is loose at the bottom so you wanna have a hand on that because once the nut comes off the strut's gonna fall right through the bottom. You wanna be able to catch it. Pull that off bringing the strut back down and set it aside. From here, we can slowly decompress that spring.All right. Once we have those guys loose, push them out of the way. Top Hat comes off, might take a little bit of force because it's been on there. This is what we're gonna reuse, this we can set aside. Just a quick note here. You are gonna have to reuse this bottom isolator. So you wanna take that off of the factory strut. You don't need this because there's a new one included in the kit. First step here is to assemble our strut. Now the strap comes with a bottom seat, so you wanna put that guy on first, with the larger lip facing up. Take that factory isolator from the bottom of the spring seat and put that on next.Take your spring and put the smaller coils down at the bottom, and slide that guy on. Now what you wanna focus on when you're mounting your spring here, especially on the compressor, is having the end of the coil here meet up with that stop on the isolator. It's kind of the seat that it sits in properly. Next, what we're gonna do is take our factory top hat and slide that guy right onto the piston. Same thing here. You wanna make sure this coil is gonna hit up right against the stop of the top hat.All right. For the next step, we're gonna take the washer included in the kit, and we're looking straight down at this stud. You can see we have enough threads on because this is a low enough spring that the stud comes through. Put that spacer and washer on and follow it up with the nylon lock nut included in the kit. At this point, we're gonna tighten down that night. All right. So the next step, since we already have the nut on, we don't need to compress anything. The only reason you'd wanna compress it is if you couldn't access the studs at the top here. But as you can see, we've got the nut on so I'm just gonna take my impact gun here with my 19 socket, and I'm gonna tighten the stud down. You still wanna angle it away from your face just because if God forbid something were to happen, you don't want that to decompress right at your head. So kind of angle it off to the side a little bit.All right. There you have it. First step for the install here. Now that we have this assembled this to feed it up under the wheel well, bring it up from under the hood and I'm just gonna tighten down one of the nuts by hand up here just to hold it in place, and then we'll work on the suspension underneath here.All right. So one of the nuts is there, hold it in place. Let's get it in position down here. From here, you can twist this into position here. So you wanna make sure the sway bar attachment bracket there is facing the inside of the vehicle. We're gonna push down on the suspension and bring it over and around the lower control arm there.Now at this point, we're gonna basically get those holes lined up and put the factory bolt through from the right side toward the front. All right. So at this point, we're basically gonna line up those bolt holes, put the factory bolt through. Grab the new nut included in the kit because your new strut does not have one welded on, and we're gonna tighten them down. All right. So I'm gonna hand tighten this nylon lock nut. This guy's a 22-millimeter. We're also gonna take our 18 socket and we're going to tighten it down with our 22 wrench.Next up here, we're gonna put our sway bar end link on. If you remember, I like to put the nut on there, so we're just gonna take that off, feed the sway bar end link stud through that bracket on the back, put the nut back on the front. Now I'm gonna tighten it down with our 21 socket.All right. So next, let's focus on the upper control arm. I'm gonna take the nut off of that. I'm gonna pull it down by hand. You can also use a pry bar but you should be able to do it by hand, feed it through and tighten down the nut. You just wanna be careful that you don't let go the upper control arm while you're doing this. Now we can tighten that down. All right. For this step, I'm gonna use my pry bar here just to put some tension on that ball joint there, and I'll use my 18 socket and my swivel to tighten this down.All right. Last step in the wheel well here is to reconnect the ABS lines to the bracket and reconnect them to the lines on the brake line. Now what we can do is lower the vehicle back down, head under the hood and tighten up those 13-millimeter bolts up there. All right. Last couple of steps here. I'm just gonna put those 13-millimeter nuts back on the studs, tighten them down and then we'll put the cap back on as well. Once that guy is on, repeat this exact process on the other side of the front, and we can move on to the rear.All right. First step here for the rear of course is gonna be to get the wheel out of the way, switch back over to a 22-millimeter socket to get our factory lugs off. All right. First step here for the rear is we're gonna disconnect our shock. Now the bottom of the shock connected to the lower control arm here is a 15-millimeter bolt and an 18-millimeter nut on the other side. So let's get that off.All right. Now the top of the shock body is connecting to the body of the vehicle here with these two 16-millimeter bolts. I'm gonna use a swivel socket on these and get them off. All right. The next step here is actually a little bit different. We have to remove the two hanger brackets from the frame here in order to drop our driver side exhaust down a little bit. The reason we're doing this is because the bolt holding on the lower control arm there that we have to remove to decompress our spring doesn't have enough clearance to come out with the exhaust pipe. So we're gonna lower it down. I'm gonna use my 13-millimeter swivel socket which I recommend along with an extension to get these two bolts off the frame.All right. Now I'm gonna keep my fist right here on the muffler so it doesn't drop down on me and we can slowly lower it. All right. We're just gonna bring this guy down, the muffler is gonna come out of the bumper there. And now it's low enough we have enough clearance for the bolt. All right. So now that we have enough clearance for that bolt, the next step is to support the lower control arm so that when we remove the bolt, it's holding the tension on the spring so we can lower it down slowly and safely. I'm gonna use a pole jack here since we're on the lift, but if you're working on the ground hydraulic jack does the trick as well. I'm gonna put that right up here. I'm gonna put that jack tension on the lower control arm. So now when we lower it down, it's gonna be nice and even and come down swiftly. I'm gonna use a 15-millimeter socket on the bolt head and an 18 wrench on the nut on the other side.All right. Next step, we have this taken care of, what we're gonna do is slowly start lowering our pole jack down to relieve the tension from the spring to take it out safely. You definitely wanna do this slow. If you're working on the ground with a hydraulic jack, make sure you're relieving that as slow as possible. Once you start being able to wiggle it, the tension is not as strong. So we're just gonna keep going down until the spring is loose which you can see it is. Just bring it down enough that you can get it out. From here we should be able to lift our shock out of place, we have it low enough. So here we can lift our spring out and set that aside and then work on our shock. Now that we have this low enough, we can pop our shock out.All right. Kick things off at the rear here, you just wanna make sure you're shocked top nut is tight, compress it as much as you can by hand and then you're gonna feed it into the bottom seat. And as it decompresses, just make sure you're guiding it back up into position on the frame there. And so you see it go right into that hole. And we're gonna stop right there. At this point, what we're gonna do is we're gonna put the nut down at the bottom here, and then focus on compressing our spring into place.All right. At this point, we're gonna take that factory bolt, we're gonna put it through the rear lining up the bottom of the shock into position. All right. And then on the other side. We're not gonna tighten it down just yet. I wanna focus on getting our spring in place and then we coan tighten our bolts down. So at this point, let's lower the Challenger toward the ground, put our spring in place, use a hydraulic jack up the lower control arm. All right. Next we have the Challenger down on the ground. Grab the factory top isolator here. If it's not already on the vehicle, you can take this and twist it on a position on your top coil. You just wanna make sure the coil's sitting up against that seat. From here we're gonna feed the spring into position.And again, you just want to twist the bottom in to position against the lower isolator as well. Now what we're gonna do is take our hydraulic floor jack, put it under here and jack it up so the top meets in the position there and then line up the bolt holds the back of the lower control arm. All right. So for the lower control arm here I got my hydraulic floor jack into position. I'm just gonna start jacking this guy up. And the cool thing is you can kind of wiggle it back and forth to help move it in the position you need it to be in. You might even need to readjust a couple of times to get it to line up where you want it. Make sure the top of the spring is sitting properly. Keep an eye on your top shock as well to make sure that goes into the hole. Jack it up.All right. So basically what we're trying to do now is get the bolt through the hole, and we use a pry bar here on the edge just to pry the holes into lining up. Might take some trial and error like I said before, but use that and a hammer and you should be able to get it through.All right. So we got the vehicle back up in the air a little bit here so we can tighten down that bolt. I'm just gonna put the nut on by hand. Grab your 15 socket and your 18 wrench and tighten those two down. All right. So now let's do the bottom shock bolt. Same thing, 15 socket and 18 wrench. All right. Last bolts we have to focus on here are the two 16-millimeters holding on the top of the shock body. Just reuse the factory ones here. I'm gonna thread them both in by hand and then grab my swivel socket and my 16 socket and tighten them down.All right. Now we can put it back up in the air to finish off the exhaust. All right. So for the exhaust, we're gonna feed that guy up into position inside the bumper there. Then what I'm gonna do is line up the hangers under the frame and feed the bolt up into position. All right. So I'm just gonna tighten these guys down by hand with this extension and swivel socket first.Well, that's gonna wrap things up here guys. Before we get going just a couple of quick notes. I definitely recommend looking at the torque specs for your specific model year and Gen just to make sure you're torquing everything down with a torque wrench properly. Also, anytime you mess with the suspension, especially when you're disconnecting your lower control arm there, it's recommended to go get an alignment, definitely something you wanna take care of sooner rather than later to avoid any excessive wear and tear on your tires and to make sure everything's aligned properly. With all that said, you can get the Eibach Pro Suspension System right here for your '11 and newer RT at

      Product Information

      Features, Description, Reviews, Q&A, Specs & Installation


      • Pro-System Suspension Kit
      • Lowers Ride Height by 1.50 Inches
      • Includes Front and Rear Shocks for Superior Traction
      • Features Front and Rear Progressive Coil Springs
      • Professional Installation Recommended for Best Results
      • Covered by Million Mile and 2-Year Warranties
      • Fits All 2011-2021 Dodge Challenger R/T Models


      Remarkable Street Performance. Make your Dodge Challenger race ahead of the pack with this Eibach Pro-System Suspension Kit. It effectively lowers your car’s center of gravity by up to 1.50 inches. This setup allows you to corner faster and tighter, while keeping the tires planted on the ground so you can keep your lead on the road or on the track.

      Intimidating Lowered Look. This suspension kit makes your car look even more intimidating by eliminating the gap between the tires and the fenders. This also helps ensure that the tires stay in contact with the road’s surface during intense race driving conditions.

      Superior Progressive Springs. Engineered to provide unmatched ride quality, the coil springs included in this kit are built for progressive performance. Even when you’re driving on rough or uneven roads, these springs let you enjoy superior comfort and excellent handling.

      Remarkable Shock Absorbers. Designed to deliver superb shock absorption in intense suspension compression, this suspension kit features powerful front and rear shocks. They are designed with hydraulic twin-tubes that have been engineered to help the shocks withstand intense heat produced during compression. Indeed, these shocks greatly enhance your car’s traction so you can corner tighter and faster.

      Professional Installation Recommended. Installation of this suspension kit is simple, but requires the help of a professional for best results. Additionally, wheel alignment is required after installation.

      Worry-Free Million-Mile Warranty. The springs included in this kit are backed by a million-mile warranty, while the shocks are backed by a 2-year warranty. These warranties cover this kit against structural workmanship defects, subject to the manufacturer’s terms and conditions.

      Application. This Eibach Pro-System Suspension Kit is designed to fit 2011-2021 Dodge Challenger R/T models.

      Fitment: 2011 2012 2013 2014 2015 2016 2017 2018 2019 2020 2021 Details

      Eibach 28111.780

      CA Residents: WARNING: Cancer and Reproductive Harm -

      Installation & What's in the Box

      Installation Info

      What's in the Box

      • (2) Front Lowering Coil Springs
      • (2) Rear Lowering Coil Springs
      • (2) Front Shocks
      • (2) Rear Shocks

      Customer Reviews (28)

        Questions & Answers

        10 More Questions

        Will It Fit My Challenger

        • R/T - 11, 12, 13, 14, 15, 16, 17, 18, 19, 20, 21
        • R/T 392 - 17, 18
        • R/T Classic - 12
        • R/T Plus - 15, 16
        • R/T Plus Shaker - 16
        • R/T Scat Pack - 16, 19, 20, 21
        • R/T Scat Pack Shaker Widebody - 21
        • R/T Scat Pack Widebody - 19, 20, 21
        • R/T Shaker - 16
        • T/A 392 Widebody - 21