(approx) 6 Hours
Mechanical expertise or professional installation required.
Justin: The Eibach Sport-System-Plus Suspension Kit that we have here should appeal to the 2005 to 2010 GT owners and all 2010 V6 owners out there who are looking to completely change both the looks and handling of their ride, thanks to a few key components from one of the most trusted names in aftermarket suspension. Now, these components do include a brand new set of adjustable front and rear sway bars, a set of dampers, in addition to Eibach's very popular Sportline lowering springs which are gonna offer a very aggressive drop for your S197, all for around 1200 bucks. Now, the site does call this a soft three out of three wrenches on the difficulty meter, which I feel is a bit extreme as most owners should be able to get this in place with relative ease in about a half a day or less from start to finish.Now, let's first start with the drop because this particular kit will definitely cater to the owners out there who prefer more of that slammed look, thanks largely to the Sportline lowering springs. Now, if that's not your bag, Eibach does offer the Pro-System-Plus as well, which would be a nice alternative for the owners who are set on Eibach and the idea of a matched system like this but would prefer a slightly milder drop instead. And that is also available here on the site as well for a very similar price tag. But for now, let's dive a little bit deeper into the Sport-System-Plus option. Now, the Sport-Plus option is gonna start off with those Sportline lowering springs as we just mentioned. And, again, these are a very, very popular aftermarket spring here on the site. Not just with the S197 crowd, but other generations as well because you're gonna be looking at one of the biggest drops in the category. And that certainly is the case here with the Sportlines for the S197 as you're gonna be looking at about one and a half inches up front and a whopping two inches for the rear. So, at the time of this video, guys, it's gonna be one of the more aggressive drops you can get out of a lowering spring. So, if you really wanna go low, the Sportlines will always be a solid choice.Now, the Sportlines do feature a progressive spring rate, which is always a great option for a street car because they're gonna be relatively comfortable while cruising, but progressively get firmer when you start to push the car and compress the spring. This will help reduce some of that body roll in turns, of course, help the car feel a little bit flatter and more composed at the limit. And you're also gonna see some subtle improvements in weight transfer from both front to back and back to front. So, basically less dive when braking hard and less squat when accelerating hard. So, in general, guys, just a vast improvement in all-around handling performance and something that will be night and day compared to the factory setup. And, of course, we can't forget about one of the biggest benefits of a lowering spring like this, and that is appearance. Again, this kit will definitely appeal to those owners out there who prefer that low look and this is one of those times where I'll really strongly encourage you guys to check out some of the customer submitted images back on the product page if you haven't already done so. This way, you can get a better feel for what your car will look like with these springs installed and just see what you might be able to expect with your own ride at home.But moving away from the springs here for a little bit, guys, and one thing that I do really enjoy about the Eibach systems is the fact that they match the Sportlines up with their Pro-Damper shocks and struts making this a very matched and very complete system. The reality is, throwing these Sportline springs and their low ride height on a set of factory shocks and struts is a recipe for disaster along with a rough ride and bad performance. So, Eibach knows this and they offered the Pro-Damper shocks and struts that are tuned to match the Sportline springs here, the lower ride height, the firmer spring rate and will ultimately deliver both the best ride quality and performance when installed. But the Sportline springs and Pro-Dampers are only half of the equation here, guys. This kit does also toss in a set of front and rear adjustable sway bars, which are three-way adjustable, by the way, and will be a massive improvement over those factory bars that you are replacing. In fact, you're gonna be looking at a 35-millimeter front bar here, tubular, by the way, which is also matched up with a 22-millimeter solid rear bar.Now, the tubular front option is a nice bit of construction to point out because it's gonna save you a little bit of weight compared to a super heavy solid front option and that larger diameter, but at the same time, without really compromising any rigidity. But by upgrading both the front end rear sway bars at the same time, the car, again, will feel a little bit more responsive, gonna feel a little bit more flat in turns when compared to the stock components depending on how you set everything up, reduce that body roll, and just feel much more capable than it did before. Now, again, these things are adjustable, meaning these three little holes here will adjust the length of the bar itself and, in turn, either soften or stiffen the bar. So, you have some options when it comes to setting up your car. Maybe you want more understeer characteristics, which is similar to the stock setup. A neutral balance will be an improvement in handling and ready to tackle those back roads or maybe the autocross track, and last but not least, you can kind of tweak the bars here to give you a little bit more oversteer, basically help the car rotate through the turns more, maybe set this thing up to go drifting. Whatever the case, you have a lot of options, thanks to the adjustability of the bars themselves in addition to the performance of everything matched perfectly.As far as your construction is concerned, well, of course, Eibach makes these sway bars right here in the USA from cold-formed high-strength aircraft grade steel then finishes everything off in that signature Eibach red powder coat just to help prevent any corrosion over the years. Now, Eibach tosses in a lot of goodies here with this kit, guys. As you can see, I have a lot of it on the table with me today, including some dust covers here for your front struts, your jounce pumpers, of course, in addition to some rear links and greaseable polyurethane bushings. However, they do not toss in any adjustable front end links, which wouldn't be a bad idea to pick up considering the low ride height or maybe if you're interested in corner-balancing your ride.But getting to the install, and, again, the site does call for a soft three out of three wrenches on this job. Personally, I don't think it's as bad as the scale might indicate. Sure, there is some work involved to swap out the shocks and struts along with the sway bars themselves, but if you have some basic hand tools along with a spring compressor, you should be able to get this one knocked out in a half a day or less in the shop or garage if you are hustling. Also, guys, wouldn't be a bad time to consider a new set of caster camber plates or maybe strut mounts to freshen up the stockers on your 10-plus-year-old S197. But when getting everything set up for the first time, I would definitely recommend starting with that middle hole to give you that neutral balance and then go from there as for your first setup.Man: The first thing you're gonna wanna do is loosen up the four 13-millimeter nuts on each side of your strut tower. Once you have the four 13-millimeter nuts loosened up on each side, you're gonna head down to the bottom of your strut. Now you're gonna wanna remove the 18-millimeter nut holding your sway bar end link to your strut. Now you're gonna remove the brake line bracket using a 10-millimeter socket and 10-millimeter wrench. Once you have your brake line bracket removed, you're gonna go ahead and remove the Christmas tree clip holding the wire to your strut. Now you're gonna remove the two 18-millimeter bolts that attach your strut to the spindle. Now that we have the lower portion of the strut completely disassembled from the spindle, we're gonna come back up top and completely remove the four 13-millimeter nuts. As you're taking your fourth nut out, you're gonna wanna make sure you're holding the strut or have someone else hold the strut because it will drop. Now that we have our strut completely removed, we're gonna head over to the other side and do the same thing.Now that we have the struts out of the way, we're gonna go ahead and remove the sway bar. You might notice the bottom of ours looks a little bit different than yours. We're gonna have to remove our intercooler piping to access the top nuts on the sway bar. With the necessary intercooler piping out of the way, we're gonna go ahead and remove the two 15-millimeter nuts on each side. Now we're gonna remove the U-bracket holding the sway bar to the vehicle. First thing you're gonna wanna do is pop your trunk and locate the top of your shock. Your top shock nut is located under your carpeting. Once you've located it, you're gonna use a 15-millimeter socket and loosen it up. You're gonna wanna do the same thing on the other side. Now that we have our nut off the top of our shock, we're gonna go ahead and close the trunk and lift the Mustang back up. For those of you doing it at home, you do not need a big expensive lift to do this, you could do this in your driveway with a jack and some jack stands.Before we go any further, we're gonna wanna support our rear axle with pole jacks. All right, now that we have our axle supported, we're gonna go ahead and remove our rear sway bar. To do that, you are gonna use a 14-millimeter socket as well as a 14-millimeter wrench on the backside. Now that we have the two nuts and bolts removed from the other side, we're gonna go ahead and remove these two. And now with everything removed, we're gonna go ahead and pull down on our sway bar and remove it from the shock bracket location. Now with your sway bar hanging, you're gonna remove the 19-millimeter bolt and nut that is securing it to the vehicle.Now, you may have noticed I left the bolts in their location. That is simply because I did not want it to fall. Let's go ahead and remove the bolts. Now with our rear sway bar out of the way, we're gonna go ahead and remove the lower bolt that is securing our shock to the lower shock mount. Once you remove the bolt, your shock will be able to come out freely. And you're gonna repeat this process on the other side. With our rear sway bar and our rear shock removed, we're gonna go ahead and lower the axle and remove the rear springs. Now with our spring out of the way, we're gonna go ahead and remove our rear bump stops using a T40 Torx bit. Once you have the two T40s removed, you're gonna go ahead and remove the bump stop from the axle. Now we're gonna go ahead and remove the other side.Now we're gonna remove our factory bump stop from the bracket and install our new one. First thing you're gonna wanna do with these, if they've been on there for a while, you're gonna wanna lubricate them so they come off a little bit easier. Now that you have it lubricated, you're gonna wanna kinda just wiggle it around a bit. Work that lubrication into the grooves. Once you think it's about ready, you're gonna go ahead and take a flathead screwdriver. You're gonna wanna put it right between the bump stop and the bracket. Now that we have our factory bump stops out, we're gonna go ahead and install the new provided ones. The first thing you're gonna wanna do is lubricate these. It will make the install so much easier. Once you have it nice and lubricated, you're gonna wanna put it on just a bit of an angle and start to twist and it should pop right in. With our new bump stops installed on the bracket, we're gonna go ahead and put them back on the vehicle using the T40 Torx bits.Once you have both of them hand started, you're gonna go ahead and use your ratchet and tighten them back up. Now you're gonna wanna do the same thing on the other side. With our new bump stops installed, we're gonna go ahead and install our new springs. The first thing you're gonna wanna do is take your spring isolator from your factory spring and put it on top of your new spring. Now, the orientation of these springs, the tighter coil goes to the top as it tapers down and gets looser. Now you can repeat this process on the other side. For this part of the installation, you're gonna be reusing your factory bolt as well as the factory nut to secure it to the lower bracket.Now with our lower shock mounted, we're gonna go ahead and install the rubber bushing. We're gonna repeat the process on the other side. All right, now we're ready to install our rear sway bar, but first, we're gonna have to install the hanging brackets. Now, to do that, you're gonna pop the rubber bushing out of the hanging bracket and install it on the sway bar. Now, the bushing is split, so it's easy to get it around the sway bar. Once you have it on your sway bar, you're gonna go ahead and pop it back into the bracket. Once you have it on your sway bar, you're gonna go ahead and put the rest of the bracket on and secure it with the provided Allen heads. Now you are gonna wanna get these hand tight, but leave them a little loose for any adjustment that may need done.Now that we have the hanging brackets attached to our rear sway bar, I'm gonna go ahead and remove the nut and washer as well as pull the bolt out to make the installation a little bit easier on myself so I can hang it in there and secure it later down the road. Now we're gonna go ahead and install it on the vehicle. Once you have your bolts in place, you're gonna go ahead and put the washer as well as the nut on the opposite side of the bolt. Using a 19-millimeter wrench and socket, you're gonna go ahead and tighten it down. Now we're gonna go ahead and install the bracket that's gonna mount the sway bar to the lower shock mount. You'll wanna remove the nut as well as the washer and separate the bolt from the bracket. You're gonna go ahead and take the bolt, put it through your sway bar, and put the bracket back on. Once your bracket's sitting on the bolt, you're gonna go ahead and reinstall the washer and nut. Now that you have your bracket mounted to your sway bar, you're gonna snug it up just enough that you could still move it around with your hands.Now, before we secure our sway bar bracket to our lower shock mount, we're gonna go ahead and do the same exact process on the other side. Now we're going to install our bracket to the lower shock mount using hardware. You're gonna wanna leave the hardware slightly loose until you have your other side secured and then go back and tighten everything up. As you can see, we lowered our vehicle down and we're gonna go ahead and install the bushing and nut on the top of our shock. Once you have your nut started by hand, you're gonna go ahead and tighten it down using a 15-millimeter socket. Once you have your nuts tightened up and your carpet back in place, you're gonna head to the front of the car.All right, guys, now we're gonna go ahead and assemble our front sway bar. The first thing you're gonna wanna do is put your bushings on. When you're putting your bushing on, you wanna make sure your bushing is to the outside of this ridge. Now that we have our bushings on, we're gonna go ahead and install our factory sway bar end links. You're gonna tighten it down using an 18-millimeter socket. Now that we have our sway bar assembled, we're gonna go ahead and put it on the vehicle using the factory hardware and the supplied brackets. Now that you got your sway bar in the approximate location, you're gonna go ahead and put the U-bracket on. Now, this should be a little bit easier for you if you are not boosted. I just have to work around the intercooler piping. As you can see, it was significantly easier to install this bracket because I removed the intercooler piping. All right, now that we got all four nuts on, we're gonna go ahead and tighten them down. You're gonna tighten them back down using a 15-millimeter socket.All right guys, the one thing this kit did not come with is a new top hat so we're gonna go ahead and transfer it over from our factory to our aftermarket. All right, guys, now we're gonna use our spring compressor to remove our top hat. Before we get into that, I would like to urge you, if you have never used one before, I highly recommend taking it to a trained professional, your local shop, or anyone who has used one before because they can be dangerous.Now that we have our spring compressed, we're gonna go ahead and use a half-inch gun, an extension, as well as a 13/16 socket and remove the top hat nut. Now that we have our strut removed, we're gonna go ahead and release the pressure on the spring, removing the top hat. All right, now we're ready to assemble our strut. We're gonna go ahead and first put the boot in the bump stop on the top hat. Once you have your boot and bump stop attached to your top hat, you're gonna go ahead and place it on your strut.When placing it on your strut, you wanna make sure that it sits properly with the edge of the top hat. For this specific setup, you do not need to use a spring compressor for reassembly. The threads do come through enough that you can impact the nut on. So first thing you're gonna wanna do is start your nut by hand going down till it hits the threaded locking portion of the nut. Now, using a 7/8 socket, you're gonna go ahead and tighten it down. Now that we have our strut fully assembled, we're gonna do the same thing for the other side. All right guys, now that we have our strut fully assembled, we're gonna go ahead and throw it back in the vehicle. First thing you're gonna wanna do is take your strut, put it up in your wheel well, and through your strut tower, loosely tightening the four 13-millimeter bolts.Now we're gonna go ahead and reattach our spindle to our strut using the factory hardware. Now you're gonna go ahead and reconnect the brake line bracket. Now you're gonna push your Christmas tree clip back through as well as connecting it back to the brake line. Once you have your Christmas tree clipped, you're gonna go ahead and clip your wire to your brake line.Now, as you guys can see, I did not reconnect the sway bar end link yet. We're gonna wait till we have the other strut in to do that so we can lift it up evenly when we attach it. So now we're gonna head over to the other side and repeat the same process we just did with this strut. All right, guys, now that we have both of our struts installed, we're gonna go ahead and attach the sway bar end link using the factory hardware. Now that we have both sway bar end links connected, we're gonna head up to the strut tower and tighten down the four 13-millimeter bolts on each side.And with everything tightened up, that wraps up our review and install. You can check out more at americanmuscle.com.
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(approx) 6 Hours
Mechanical expertise or professional installation required.
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