(approx) 6 Hours
Mechanical expertise or professional installation required.
$837.00 (kit)FREE Shipping
Saved - View your saved items
We're sorry. We couldn't save this product at this time.
Hey, guys. Adam here with americanmuscle.com. And today, we're taking a closer look at and of course installing the Eibach Sport-System Suspension Kit, available for the 2011 and newer RT and V6 Challengers. You should be checking out this kit if you're looking for a lower ride height for an aggressive appearance on your Challenger to get rid of that pretty ugly factory wheel gap which, let's be honest, was pretty crazy to begin with, while also getting a stiffer suspension to help with cornering abilities to really give you the feel of the road.Now this Eibach Sport suspension kit is gonna be one of the more aggressive drops in the category when it comes to a lowering spring kit, you can expect a 2-inch drop in the front and a 2.1-inch drop in the rear. Now, it doesn't sound like a whole lot but as you can see it makes a huge difference to the ride appearance. The Challenger has that huge wheel gap from the factory and just two inches will definitely make a huge difference tucking your factory wheel up into the wheel well just a little bit. If you have an aftermarket wheel and tire setup, it can take that even a step further to look a lot more aggressive.Now, any time you lower the center of gravity on your Challenger, you're definitely gonna feel a lot better curving corners. Lowering that center of gravity means you're gonna reduce body roll and adding these stiffer springs at the front and rear are gonna reduce excessive nosedive upon braking and excessive squatting upon acceleration. So this is overall gonna give you a better ride handling and suspension. Now those struts and shocks included in the kit here from Eibach are gas monotube options with better compression and rebound that are specifically built for lowered ride applications. Now we'll take a closer look at them compared to the factory options a little bit later on in the video once we get the front and rear uninstalled.I want to let you know now though that your factory struts and shocks, while they would work for lowering springs like the ones you have in this kit here, they're not optimized for a lowered ride height. They can wear and tear just a little bit more when applied with lowering springs, so upgrading to the shocks and struts in this more complete kit here is gonna go a long way to improve the suspension but also the longevity of your suspension.Now, if you wanted to take this kit a little bit farther, you can even go with their sports system plus which includes everything you have here in the kit but also upgraded front and rear sway bars along with bushings and end links, now, that would take your ride handling even farther. Upgrading your factory sway bars to new options like those bigger kits available from Eibach will help anti-roll dramatically. But this kit here is gonna come in right around 850 bucks for the lowering springs for the front and rear and the shocks and struts. So it is definitely a huge upgrade over the factory.Now, if you're not looking for as aggressive as a drop like the 2-inch front and 2.1-inch rear, the pro system is an option as well to cut about 1/2-inch off of each front and rear. Now, if that's what you're looking for, the other options out there in the category are available from Eibach among a number of other lowering springs. Now, linear springs are a lot more predictable, they're typically options chosen by people running on the drag strip who want to know exactly how their lowering springs are gonna react under every single launch.Now progressive springs on the other hand, give you a nice normal ride comfort under normal driving conditions but get progressively stiffer and sportier under heavier load like launching and taking corners. So progressive springs are great for daily drivers, kind of a best of both worlds situation and this is something you'd also get with the pro spring option I talked about a second ago if you're not looking for as aggressive as a drop.Now, the install for this is gonna get the full three out of three wrenches on our difficulty meter not because there's any cutting drilling or modification like that but because it requires specialty tools like a spring compressor. I'll walk you guys through what that can look like later on in the video but I recommend getting professional help or a helping hand with experience if tackling it yourself. Pretty straightforward installation, just a couple of nuts and bolts at the front end and the rear. I'll walk you through the entire process, it'll take about three, maybe four hours from start to finish depending on your personal experience. I'll tackle the entire driver side and then you'll repeat on the other side. What do you say we get started?All right. Tools used in this install include an air impact gun, 3/8ths drive, extension, 13-millimeter swivel socket, 13,15,16,18, 19, 21 and 22-millimeter deep sockets, a universal swivel socket is definitely gonna help, 18 and 20-millimeter wrenches, hammer and a pry bar, and not listed on the table would be a hydraulic floor jack and of course a spring compressor.First step, we're gonna get our wheels out of the way. Our factory lug nuts here are 22-millimeters so I got my impact gun. I'm using air tools for this, but if you don't have air tools, of course a lug wrench works just as well, it's just gonna make life a little easier. All right. Next up, we're gonna disconnect some of the ABS lines here so we don't put too much stress on them as we remove some suspension component. Now, it uses rubber, I'm just gonna pull straight off on that guy. There's two more clips on your brake lines as well, I'm just gonna disconnect those to give it a little bit more slack.Next up, we're gonna disconnect our sway bar end link from the strut body, now this is a 21-millimeter nut. Now using air tools it can be a little easier, but if you're using an impact gun, it might start spinning the bearing, in which case, you want to be able to hold onto the backside with something to keep it from spinning. All right. So now you can pull the sway bar end link out of the strut body. And I like to just put that nut back on just to keep it safe, you know, so we don't lose it. What I just did was I put a pry bar right on the other side of the spacer to put a little tension on it as I took it off to keep it from spinning.All right. Next step, we're gonna tackle the nut holding on our upper control arm to the knuckle itself. Now, this is an 18-millimeter nut and what we're gonna do is use a swivel socket or my impact gun or you can use a ratcheting wrench, that'll work as well. We're gonna work this guy off. And it might also be a good idea to put a pry bar on the spring and pry down on it so it doesn't shoot off. We're gonna keep this on a couple of threads just to make sure we can disconnect these two without it shooting off. So just put the nut on a couple of threads. All right. So now I'm gonna pry up to disconnect the ball joint here.So now we can pry back down, take that nut off and work this off easily. All right. Just guide the knuckle back down and I'm just gonna thread the nut back on so we don't lose it. Use that same 18-millimeter socket and we're gonna remove the bolt holding on the factory strut to the bottom control arm here, the lower control arm. Now, the nut is already on the strut body so we don't need a wrench on the other side, but I am gonna keep my hand here to keep it from popping off too quickly. All right. Here we go.All right. Next up, we're under the hood because we have to remove the three nuts holding on the top of the strut tower. And I'm gonna twist off this cap here, and I'm gonna set that right onto our cowl there. Now that will expose the back to there, these are 13-millimeter, so grab your impact gun and your socket and get those three off. And now, as you remove the third one, the strut is gonna fall straight through so you want to have a hand on it to get it off.All right. Now that you have a hand on it, you can push down on the suspension assembly there to pull the strut away from the lower control arm and then off of the vehicle. We've got our factory coil-over assembly here off of our '13 RT, and it's on the table next to our Eibach Sport-System. Now, I want to take you guys through some similarities and differences between these two kits here and I mainly want to focus on the spring. Now your factory spring here is more of a linear compression, linear being, it's very predictable, it has evenly spaced coils there, you know exactly how it's gonna perform every time, but your new Eibach Sport spring here is progressive.Now, a progressive spring is what you're mostly gonna find in a lowering spring category. Progressive springs like this one here are gonna give you a more predictable ride, a very comfortable ride when it comes to daily driving under normal driving conditions. But once you start putting a little bit more stress on the suspension, it gets stiffer and progressively gets sportier. Now the progressive spring right there is gonna be great for guys who really drive a daily driver and want something comfortable every single day but want to be able to curve up some corners especially on the weekends there, having a bit more fun and getting a bit more of a sporty suspension.Now this red Eibach spring is pretty iconic as far as the coloring there, you know exactly what it is when you see it. Color is not gonna make much of a difference there but it does look pretty cool in the wheel well. Now, these springs are gonna give you that 2 inch drop at the front. Having a drop a little bit lower on the front end than some of the other options out there is gonna give you a lower center of gravity, like we talked about earlier, that lowered center of gravity is gonna help you curve corners a bit more effectively, it's gonna reduce a lot more of that body roll, you're gonna feel a little bit more in control of that suspension, with a tighter or stiffer suspension at the front.Now the strut there is also gonna be a little bit of an upgrade. Your factory struts are Bilstein, so it's a little bit upgraded over some of the regular OEM options out there with the RT, but your new strut here is a gas monotubed option, it's gonna have a better compression and rebound than your factory strut, giving you a bit more of a comfortable ride there and it's built more for the lowered application where your factory strut may not be. Putting a lowering spring on a factory strut can wear down the strut a little bit faster than it was intended to, so upgrading to those new struts included in the kit will go a long way as they're specifically paired for each other for this vehicle. We are gonna be reusing your factory strut top hat.Now, if your factory top hat here is looking a little worse for wear, if the bushings inside are looking pretty beat up, it's a great time now to replace them. The kit here does not come with all those bells and whistles like the strut hat there and the bushings underneath, ours are pretty good so we're gonna reuse them there, but if you're not looking good there definitely fix them up now. The last thing you want to do is have them blow out and have to redo all your suspension just because you didn't take the time to do it now. So definitely a little tip there, take care of them while you have it apart.At this point, what we're gonna do is head over to our spring compressor because obviously that is required here, we have to assemble this guy and we have to take that strut hat off. So let's get to it. All right. So next up here, we're set up at our spring compressor. Now I've got the bottom coil set up into these spring compressor arms, but I want to say, if you're working on this at home by yourself, just use extreme caution, this can be very dangerous if not done properly.I got the bottom set up. The factory strut does have this rubber spacer at the top so you got to take that guy off along with the flat washer to expose the nut there and that's an 18-millimeter. So now what we're gonna do is set up the top. So the top I'm actually gonna take these arms right to the strut hat for a little bit more security. All right. So I'm gonna bring this down. Now, before you start compressing, you just want to make sure everything is done properly, you want to make sure the spring is at the bottom, the coils are set into the arms properly.All right. So now we can compress. Now, when you want to compress, you want to do this slowly. Basically you're taking the tension off of the top hat by compressing the spring so it takes that tension off of this top here and then we're gonna take the nut off and then slowly decompress to take it apart. So, that should be enough compression there to take that stress off of that nut. So now what we can do is take our 18 socket. I'm gonna use an extension and a swivel, put it right through the top here and take that off.All right. Once you crack that nut loose, you'll see that the strut is loose at the bottom, so you want to have a hand on that because once the nut comes off, the strut is gonna fall right through the bottom and you want to be able to catch it. Take that off, bring the strut back down and set it aside. From here, we can slowly decompress that spring. All right. Once we have those guys loose, push them out of the way. Top hat comes off, might take a little bit of force because it's been on there. This is what we're gonna reuse, this, we can set aside. Just a quick note here, you are gonna have to reuse this bottom isolator, so you want to take that off of the factory strut. You don't need this because there's a new one included in the kit.All right. So next we have our new Eibach damper, we're gonna take the new Chrome seat, that's gonna sit at the bottom. Take that isolator we just took off, slide that on top, that's where the spring will sit. Now, at this point, we can take the spring, set that over top, put the top hat along with that dust boot there, and then we can start compressing it. So we're gonna put the skinny sides, you'll see there's a smaller coil at the bottom and a larger coil at the top. Smaller coil is gonna go on first toward the bottom. What you'll also see here is that on this bottom isolator, there's a little end seat right here, it kind of stops, that's where the end coil is gonna meet, that's the proper seat.All right. So now you can take that assembly here and we're gonna slide that onto the shaft, might take, again, a little bit of force. And if you look at the top, there's another seat where that coil is gonna sit up against. Now, at this point, you can look at the top and see if you have enough threads. If you have enough threads you want to put your washer down there and follow it up with your nut. You might be able to get a couple of threads started. Here we go. So that's perfect. So now the strut will hold itself up. Now we can set it up in the spring compressor and compress it to tighten down the nut.All right. So, at this point, I'm just gonna set up the top again and we're basically gonna do it in reverse order, we're just gonna compress this guy down making sure it's done safely. Now, as you compress, you'll see that the spring is gonna lift off of that seat. Just want to make sure that when you're tightening down the nut, the bottom coil and the top coil are still seated properly against the isolator. Typically doesn't take much compression but you do want to compress it enough that all the threads at the top will be visible. All right. So if I lift this guy back up into position, you want to see all the threads that you'll need, just like that. So we know that that's where we want it to be.All right. Now this is gonna be a 19-millimeter nut, so I'm gonna hold my strut into position and tighten that down. All right. So now as we decompress, you'll see it start the line up again and it'll seat properly. That out of the way, and there we have it. Now we can install this in our Challenger. All right. At this point, we're gonna take our new strut assembly, we're gonna feed it up from under the wheel well so it comes up the top under the hood and put those three 13-millimeter factory nuts back in place. So we have one holding it in now, what we can basically do is just feed the other two on there in each corner and tighten them down.All right. Line up those two bottom holes and take your factory bolt and put it through. Now the new strut does not have a nut welded to the other side so they do include a nut in the kit. So you're just gonna tighten that down to the other side. It's a nylon lock nut, so get it on as far as you can. Now we can grab our impact gun and a wrench and tighten those two down.All right. So now I'm gonna use my 18 socket on the bolt head and a 22 wrench on the nut. All right. So now we can head back up under the hood, use our 13 socket to tighten down all three of those nuts. All right. And then you can take the cap and screw it right back on. All right. So next up, we're gonna reconnect our upper control arm to the knuckle assembly. So what we're gonna do here is take that nut off if that's where you left it like I did.We're gonna bring the upper control arm straight down through that hole and I'm gonna put the nut on a couple of threads. All right. So now I can use a pry bar to pull down on it and tighten up the nut. All right. So I'm gonna use my 18 socket again along with my swivel. Get that set up in place, take my pry bar, put it up against one of the coils and pull down on the upper control arm to try to put some tension on it so it doesn't spin the control arm bushing.All right. So next, let's reconnect our sway bar end link. I'm gonna take that nut back off, I'm gonna put the stud through the hole in the bracket on the strut body, put the nut back on and tighten it down. All right. The last step here, we're just gonna reconnect the ABS and brake lines. Push the rubber things back into their locations. Now you can repeat this exact process for the opposite side for the front.All right. First up here for the rear, of course, is gonna be to get the wheel out of the way, switch back over to a 22-millimeter socket to get our factory lugs off. All right. The first step here for the rear is we're gonna disconnect our shock. Now the bottom of the shock connected to the lower control arm here is a 15-millimeter bolt and an 18-millimeter nut on the other side, so let's get that off. All right. The top of the shock body is connected to the body of the vehicle here with these two 16-millimeter bolts, I'm gonna use a swivel socket on these and get them off.All right. The next step here is actually a little bit different. We have to remove the two hanger brackets from the frame here in order to drop our driver side exhaust down a little bit. The reason we're doing this is because the bolt holding on the lower control arm there that we have to remove to decompress our spring doesn't have enough clearance to come out with the exhaust pipe. So we're gonna lower it down, I'm gonna use my 13-millimeter swivel socket, which I recommend, along with an extension to get these two bolts off the frame. The other one is up right above the tip.All right. Now I'm gonna keep my fist right here on the muffler so it doesn't drop down on me and we can slowly lower it. All right. So I'm gonna bring this guy down. The muffler's gonna come out of the bumper there. All right. And now it's low enough, we have enough clearance for the bolt. All right. So now that we have enough clearance for that bolt, the next step is to support the lower control arm so that when we remove the bolt, it's holding the tension on the spring so we can lower it down slowly and safely. I'm gonna use a pole jack here since we're on a lift, but if you're working on the ground a hydraulic jack does the trick as well. I'm gonna put that right up here, and I'm gonna put that jack tension on the lower control arm so now when we lower it down, it's gonna be nice and even, and come down safely.I'm gonna use a 15-millimeter socket on the bolt head and an 18 wrench on the nut on the other side. All right. Next step, we have this taken care of, what we're gonna do is slowly start lowering our pole jack down to relieve the tension from the spring to take it out safely. You definitely want to do this slow. If you're working on the ground with a hydraulic jack, make sure you're relieving that as slow as possible. Once you start being able to wiggle it, the tension is not as strong so we're just gonna keep going down until the spring is loose which you can see it is. Just bring it down enough that you can get it out. From here we should be able to lift our shock out of place if we have it low enough. So here we can lift our spring out and set that aside and then work on our shock. Now that we have this low enough, we can pop our shock out.So we got our factory suspension off of the rear end of our 13 RT here and I want to talk about some similarities and differences here. And I know we already talked about the front comparison, talked about linear versus progressive springs, we talked about the factory Bilstein struts versus the new Eibach struts and really all of those things apply to the rear as well. The only difference here between the rear and the front is that the rear is just gonna be slightly lower in appearance than the front. So your front gives you a 2-inch drop, but the rear you're gonna get a 2.1-inch drop. Now this is all coming in once it's said and done and the suspension settles after riding it for a little bit here, but your rear end is just gonna be a tad lower than the front almost might not even be noticeable. The new springs of course are also powder-coated in red just like Eibach has had for years, at least for their sport system here. Your factory spring, of course, is that linear spring rate whereas your new Eibach is the progressive.So, again, it gets a little bit more comfortable for daily driving but it gets progressively stiffer and sportier feeling as you push it to its limits like cornering or hard launches especially at the rear. Your new shock here is also gonna be a monotube gas shock. It's definitely gonna have a better compression and rebound than your factory Bilstein. But again, the Bilstein is still a nice sizeable upgrade over some of the stock or lesser packages that you could get with the Challenger.Now, at this point, the install is gonna be a little bit different. We don't have to transfer over factory things like we did at the front end, it all comes pre-assembled here on your new shock, we are gonna reuse your factory bolts, however. Once we get to that, we're gonna put our shock in at first, followed up by our spring, making sure that the proper side is facing up and then, of course, we'll just get to the install in reverse.The first thing I'm gonna do here with our new shock is tighten down the top 15-millimeter nut. Out of the box, it's already assembled, you just got to grab a 15 socket and tighten it down. You want to make sure that the bottom and the top are aligned where you want them when you tighten this down. First up, we're gonna put our shock in place. I'm gonna feed this guy up into position, compress it by hand enough to get it inside of the lower control arm there. Just like that, and then we're gonna put our bolt through the bottom just to hold it in place.All right. So you just want to lift it up so the hole lines up, put the factory bolt through. All right. I'm gonna thread the nut on just by hand. And now we can make sure our pole jack is in place and throw our spring in. All right. So next up, we're gonna put our new Eibach spring in place. Now you want to put your tighter round coils at the top there since this is progressive, it's a little bit different in terms of the spacing, we're gonna put that towards the top. You also want to take note of your isolators, ours are still in place on the frame there and on the lower control arm, if yours are not, transfer them over from your stock spring. Again, if they're not in good condition, you want to replace them.All right. So I'm gonna feed my spring into position making sure it seats into the lower control arm properly. I may need to spin it in place as well. All right. So, to reinstall our spring and compress it up in order to put our bolt through the lower control arm, I actually brought the vehicle down toward the ground. Now I'm gonna use a hydraulic floor jack here to actually help us out, this is gonna make life a little bit easier. It's easier, believe it or not, to do it this way than it is in the air with a pole jack. So what we're gonna do here is basically use this pad on our hydraulic floor jack to jack up the control arm into place.Basically, I'm just gonna use the hydraulic floor jack pad to put that underneath the lower control arm in order to bring it up into place, it's gonna make guiding it into place a little bit easier. And the first thing we're gonna do is start jacking this guy up and you can sort of rotate it this way to help guide it into position. All right. So keep in mind, you are still compressing that spring so it can still be a little dangerous. You just want to make sure you're using caution there and making sure that that pad is secure on the lower control arm. So we got it pretty close, you just want to keep an eye on that bolt hole.All right, so, as you can see, we have it lined up here, but it's just a little bit off. I'm gonna use a pry bar here at the back end to just pry forward on it to get the bolt hole to line up just a little bit better. I'm gonna have my bolt push through as I line it up. All right. So now we can tighten up the bottom of the shock, the same thing, 15 socket, 18 wrench. All right. So next we can put the two bolts back at the top of the shock going into the body of the vehicle, use the factory 16 millimeters. I'm just gonna throw them both in by hand a couple of threads and then tighten them down. We're gonna slide this guy back into position in the bumper and then I'm gonna use my extension along with my 13 swivel socket to put the factory bolts back through. All right. From there, just repeat this on the other side and you're good to go.Well, guys, that's gonna wrap up my review and install for the Eibach Sport-System Suspension Kit, available for the '11 and newer RT and V6 Challengers. You can get your kit right here at americanmuscle.com.
Subscribe to our YouTube Channel
Features, Description, Reviews, Q&A, Specs & Installation
Aggressive Performance. Drive faster and more aggressively on the track with this Eibach Sport-System Suspension Kit. It’s a powerful set of suspension equipment that not only lowers your Dodge Challenger's height for improved center of gravity, it also allows you to enjoy a smoother driving experience, even in the most competitive road conditions.
Remarkable Pro-Damper Shocks. To help your car absorb powerful shocks during intense suspension compression, this suspension kit includes powerful front and rear shocks. These shocks are gas-chambered monotubes that have been designed to withstand the intense heat produced during compression. With these on your Challenger, your tire stays in contact with the road, even in aggressive driving situations, for superb traction and speed.
High-Performance Progressive Springs. Designed to give your car an aggressive, performance driving look, this kit features 2 front coil springs that drop the front of your vehicle’s height by 2.0 inches. Meanwhile, the 2 rear coil springs drop the rear’s height by 2.10 inches. These springs have been designed to minimize body roll, dive, and squat so you can enjoy superior ride comfort.
Straightforward Installation. This suspension kit installs without the need for cutting or welding. Please note, however, that wheel alignment is required after installation for best results.
Backed by a Million-Mile Warranty. To assure quality, the Sportline Springs included in this kit are covered by a million-mile warranty, while the Pro-Damper Shocks are covered by a 2-year warranty. These cover defects against manufacturing. Some exclusions apply.
Application. This Eibach Sport-System Suspension Kit is designed to fit 2011-2021 Dodge Challenger RT and V6 models.
Fitment: 2011 2012 2013 2014 2015 2016 2017 2018 2019 2020 2021 Details
CA Residents: WARNING: Cancer and Reproductive Harm - www.P65Warnings.ca.gov
(approx) 6 Hours
Mechanical expertise or professional installation required.
What's in the Box
10 More Questions