(approx) 1 Hour
Simple installation for anyone.
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Hey, guys. Adam here with americanmuscle.com and today we're taking a closer look at, installing, and dyno-testing, the JLT Cold Air Intake and the Rev-X by SCT Tuner with one Lund Racing Tune, available for the 2018 and newer Mustang GT. Now, before we jump into all the details of the cold air intake and the Rev-X and the tunes themselves, what do you say we had right on over to the dyno graph and take a look at some results?All right. So we strapped our customer's 2018 GT down to the dyno. And a couple of things to note here, guys, he did have an aftermarket drop-in K&N filter for the stock run as well as an aftermarket H-pipe, bone stock otherwise, stock tune, and 93 octane in the tank. We ran it to establish a baseline run in fourth gear. Now, fifth is closer to the one-to-one, but you do end up hitting the speed limiter. So we did it in fourth to run all the way to redline. Coming out of our baseline, we walked away with 408 horsepower, 384-pound-feet of torque at the rear wheels. We then uploaded our Lund Racing '91 to '93 octane tune, ran it under the same conditions and the same gear and walked away with 431 horsepower and 396-pound-feet of torque at the rear wheels. That's good for peak gains of 23 horsepower and 12 torque at the rear wheels. Now, those gains alone are prety respectable for a simple cold air intake and tune. Under the curve, we're seeing gains of as much as 23 horsepower and 26-pound-feet of torque at the rear wheels and we're seeing most of that happen at the top end of the RPM band, closer to redline, around 6,000 RPMs, which is exactly what we'd expect from these Coyote motors. They're picking up good power at that top end. And, again, simple cold air intake and tune makes a huge difference for drivability.Diving in deeper to the cold air intake and tune combo kit here, let's focus on the intake first. This is a great option for the guys who wanna swap out the restrictive, really not so up to par factory intake for one that's gonna pull in a lot more cold air, give you a small bump in throttle response and acceleration and one that is tune required, making this a perfect pair for the Rev-X with a Lund tune. Now, this uses a washable and reusable oiled filter which is gonna pull in a lot more cold air than your factory paper element ever could. And we'll take a closer look at that side by side later on. The oiled filter here is washable and reusable, so when it comes time for routine maintenance, no need to pick up a new filter. Take this guy out, wash it, you can recoil it, throw it right back in. The oiled filter does require a little bit extra maintenance when it comes time for that, but it lasts you a whole lot longer than some of the dry filters and the factory paper element filter as well. Now, this guy uses a larger diameter tubing here to make sure it's got a little bit more velocity and a little bit more volume of airflow coming in, which is why it's the tune required. It's gonna reuse your factory MAF sensor and you can choose to either retain or delete your factory sound tube to get a more aggressive engine sound. Now, pairing that with the Lund tune here is really gonna maximize performance. You know, you can pick up a non-tune required intake that bolts right up. You might get a couple of single-digit gains from it, but when you pair it with a tune, you're maximizing its potential, especially when it comes to a 93 octane gas in the tank and that's what we saw there at the dyno graph a little bit earlier.Now, the Lund tune here is gonna focus on maximizing potential. It's gonna increase air-fuel ratio. It's gonna take things like timing and spark into consideration. It's gonna remove the drive by wire delay, which is essentially the delay in time between hitting the gas and your car getting off the line, which makes a huge difference, especially when it comes to increasing those ETs at the drag strip. Now, it's got a number of other parameters that we can dive into deeper but just know that the Lund tune is one of the most reputable tunes in the market, especially for the Mustang community. Lund is a record-breaking tuner and they are definitely going all in on these tunes. Now, this one, in particular, is specific to 91 and higher octane fuels and as you heard earlier, we have 93 in the tank. Now, Lund does have an E85 option if you're looking to go beyond pump gas and they have a forced induction option for the heavily modified guys under the hood. That does cost a little bit more than this one but it is available from Lund as well.And also know that the Rev-X here has a number of other features to take advantage of. You have the DTC code reader, which is great for if the check engine light comes on, you can read and clear the code right on the device here, no need for a separate OBD2 module. Now, aside from the DTC code reader, you have WIFI access and cloud capabilities. WIFI access lets you wirelessly update your software and your firmware for your Rev-X and it allows you to connect to the cloud. Now, cloud's there to make sure you can wirelessly send and receive tunes and datalog files through your Rev-X without needing a computer if you don't have one handy. Now, you also have the gauges and datalog screen. The gauges will allow you to monitor live engine vitals on the fly within arm's reach of the driver seat with this guy. Now, with that, if you think you're gonna be tracking that on a daily basis through your rides, you wanna make sure you pick up a windshield mount as well available from SCT to mount it within arm's reach. Now, things you can track our air-fuel ratio, coolant temp, intake air temperature. For force induction guys, boost in PSI is an option and a number of other parameters I'll take you through in just a little bit. You can datalog your vehicle to record your engine's performance and you can communicate that back to your tuner, in this case, Lund, for possible tune revisions, all can be done right here with the preconfigured settings in the Rev-X.Now, the JLT and Lund Racing Rev-X tune combo kit are some of the more premium options in the category coming in right around 900 to 950 bucks. Now, that's gonna be because the JLT option uses some premium quality materials. It's one of the higher-end options in the cold air intake category and the Lund Racing tune is one of the better performing options in the category as well, and the Rev-X, having those cloud capabilities, bumps it up a little bit as well.Now, all of this is gonna get one out of three wrenches on our difficulty meter when it comes to the install. Anybody can tackle this entire thing in the driveway at home with very simple hand tools and I'll show you guys that entire process and just a little bit. It's gonna take you about an hour, maybe two hours from start to finish, depending on your experience, but just know cold air intakes are some of the easiest possible things you can do to cars in general. Now, without further ado, I wanna take you through the process. Let's start with the uninstall and install of the intake and then we'll move on to the tune.All right. Tools used in this install include an impact gun and/or a ratchet, a variety of extensions, a panel removal tool, flat and Phillips head screwdrivers, 7, 8, 10, and 15-millimeter deep sockets. A swivel socket is recommended, T20 Torx bit, and a pair of pliers. Strut tower brace out of the way. Now, if your vehicle does not have a strut tower brace, you can skip this and go straight into taking the engine cover off, but ours does. Now, there's two 15-millimeter nuts on both sides on the strut towers. Now, there's this harness clip right here. We wanna take that off and slide that out of the way. A flathead screwdriver might come in handy if it's a little stiff. Now, you can take your battery cover off if you find it just gives yourself a little bit more room to work with here. I'm gonna leave ours on. Grab your 15 deep socket and your impact gun or your ratchet and get to work on these. All right. Same thing on the other side.All right. Back here on our passenger side. This is a little bit more of the tricky side, trying to get this guy to feed underneath of your battery harness. So you're gonna lift up and squeeze this guy over the studs and under the harness. All right. And set it aside. All right. So now for your engine cover, there are two 10-millimeter nuts holding this guy on underneath of these little caps, it's one on both sides. Grab a flathead screwdriver and pop these caps off. So now I'm gonna use an extension and a 10-millimeter deep socket to get these two 10-millimeter nuts off, gonna go straight down in the middle of there, gun them off. Now, you probably won't be able to pull them out like this, but we can get it off once the engine cover's off altogether. All right. So now from the edges, just pop up and from the back. All right. And now you can set it aside.All right. Next step here, we can start uninstalling the factory intake. Let's start with our MAF sensor. Now, this guy here has a red locking tab. Gonna wanna pull back on the red locking tab, pinch, and disconnect. All right. So now we wanna disconnect our hoses. Our breather line back here is a gray locking tab. You just kind of pull to the side there and then disconnect. So that's the tab underneath here. You're gonna push down on the black tab and pull to disconnect just like that. And then for the sound tube, you're gonna need a pair of pliers for the hose clamp, pinch the clamp all the way shut. You're gonna need to wiggle it back and forth to disconnect. And then you can let go. Next is the 10-millimeter bolt holding the factory airbox to the interior fender well. I'm gonna use an extension and a 10-millimeter socket to get that off. Next, let's loosen up the hose clamp holding on the factory tubing to your throttle body. Now, you can use a flathead screwdriver for that clamp, but I'm gonna use a 7-millimeter deep socket here with an extension. So from here, we can pull back on the tubing to disconnect from the throttle body. Now, you'll head back over here and there's one more thing to do. Our MAF sensor harness has a clip holding it to the airbox. Wiggle that guy around, pull that off. Now you can lift up on the entire assembly and pull it out. Now, you'll see it pulls out the factory air duct. It's all attached in one piece. Now we can set it aside.All right. Next step here, guys, is optional before moving on to our assembly on the table. Now, the sound tube removal, again, being optional, you can follow this guy back to the firewall, remove the 10-millimeter nut on the stud and pull the entire thing out and plug it at the firewall. Now, it's almost impossible to see on camera. It's so tucked away. You can follow the sound tube to the back of the firewall to find that 10-millimeter but for reference, it's on our driver side right behind the cylinder head. As far as tools, it can get really, really tricky. You'll need a flashlight, a couple of different extensions, maybe even swivel sockets or universal swivel joints, and a 10-millimeter. Now, we got this thing off off-camera just because, again, it's gonna be so hard to show you guys. It's really tucked away back there. But once you have that guy off, you can pull the sound tube off in one piece. You can keep your factory sound tube if you want to avoid doing all this, but you will have to drill a new hole in your new tubing on the table when you start assembling everything. So we're gonna remove this guy. We've got it already taken off of our firewall so now what we're basically gonna do is feed this guy off of its position on the firewall and set it aside. Now we can take the grommet included in the kit and plug the hole in the firewall.So we got our factory intake off of the 2018 GT behind me and it's on the table next to our JLT cold air intake. And I wanna take you through some similarities and differences between the two kits, starting with the star player, the filters. Now, your factory filter is a flat paper element, dry drop-in filter, very commonly used for manufacturers like Ford and Chevy and Dodge. Very standard stuff. It's great for filtering out particles you don't want getting into the engine bay, but it's not great for optimizing airflow. Swapping over to your JLT cold air intake, it includes this S&B power stack filter. Now, S&B is a company that is making some of the more premium filter options in the category. They make filters for a lot of companies such as JLT. This is your conical power stack oiled filter from S&B. This guy uses a multi-layer cotton gauze filter element along with a wire mesh outer layer to filter out all the particles you don't want getting in. As a matter of fact, it's gonna do a better job filtering out particles than your factory paper element filter here just because of the media and the oil. Now, the oil there is a thin layer of oil along that multi-layer cotton gauze to help filter out the particles that catches things that would otherwise make its way through.Oiled filters are also known to be a little bit better for airflow as opposed to its dry filter counterparts. That's simply because the cotton gauze media is a little bit more open than a paper element you'd find in a dry filter. With that said, there are some downsides in comparison to dry filters. Oiled filters do require a little bit more maintenance. They are washable and reusable, which is great, but when it comes time for routine maintenance, you have to wash it, reoil it, and then throw it back in. Dry filters are a little bit less maintenance-heavy. Oiled filters tend to get clogged up a little bit faster as well in dry weather areas, places like Arizona or Nevada that see a lot of desert sand up in the air. Dry filters are typically better for those climate conditions, but it's all personal preference, of course. Your oiled filter here is by far and away gonna be better than factory. Definitely expect a bump in airflow velocity. Definitely expect a more longer-lasting filter in comparison to your factory.Now, this guy, using that power stack, it has that open-top, which is a little bit different than some of the other options out there, which is really gonna help optimize that airflow. The rest of the system here is also a huge improvement. You're getting a rotomolded heat shield and tubing. The tubing is a much larger diameter than the factory tubing. It doesn't have as much airflow restrictions like the resonator here at the bottom and that flex tube. Now, because of that, it does pull in a lot more air than the factory tubing, which is why it can no longer be used with your factory tune. It is that tune required intake like I mentioned earlier and pairing it with that Lund Racing tune is gonna go a long way to maximizing its potential. Now, it's also gonna use a new air duct. Your factory tubing or your factory heat shield rather uses an air duct. It goes into the front grille. You're not gonna be reusing the factory one, but having a new one here is definitely gonna help because that's a thing a lot of people like from the factory intake that you don't get with some of the other options in the category, making this one definitely a more premium option. Now, it's got weatherstripping on the top here to make sure it's sealing in under the hood, but it also includes this foam block which will go around the tubing where the filter is to help take that a little bit further, trapping in cold air and blocking out the excess engine bay here.And with that said, we got a couple of things we need to assemble before heading back under the hood. Number one, we got a transfer over the MAF sensor with our new grommet and our new washer. So what do you say we do that first, get that out of the tubing? Let's start there.All right. Next step, we have to get our factory MAF sensor out of the way. Now use a T20 Torx bit to get these two factory screws off and then we'll set the MAF sensor aside and use our new hardware to reinstall it. It's always a good idea to hold onto your factory hardware in case you ever wanna revert back to stock. You wanna have these factory T20 screws on hand to get it back into the factory housing. Take your new gasket, slide it onto the MAF sensor, making sure those holes align and then slide it into the new tubing. Now, it only lines up one way, so if it doesn't line up, just flip it around the other way and then put your new Phillips head screws in.Next, we'll install our coupler on the throttle body side. Now, the throttle body side is gonna be where this hose fitting is here. And we can slide this guy on. All right. Once you have that guy seated on, rotate your clamp into position and tighten it down with either a flathead screwdriver or an 8-millimeter socket. If you do wanna retain your sound tube, your factory sound tube, you would have to measure about 3 inches out from this fitting and drill another hole right in this region here to install the included fitting. Now, the fitting would screw right into the new hole, but that is some extra modification. Definitely recommended to not retain your factory sound tube to get a more aggressive engine bay sound, but if you wanna use it, that's where that would go.All right. So now we have our factory heat shield on the table. Now, this bottom tray here where the 10-millimeter bolt was going into the fender well, we're gonna remove this metal sleeve and then the rubber grommet. That's gonna transfer over to our new heat shield. Really just pushing up from the bottom and pulling up from the top and then you can set the factory tubing aside. Now, inside your new heat shield, you'll see this open hole. That's where that factory grommet's gonna go. Just gonna push that guy in a position and then grab that metal sleeve and insert it through just like the factory, just like that. Now, this square-ish cutout here is gonna be where your air duct is going. Now, you'll notice on the air duct, there are two little knobs molded into the plastic. That's gonna be sort of your locking mechanism. You're gonna insert this so that this first knob is on the inside of the heat shield and this knob is on the outside so that the heat shield will sit right in between. There's one on the bottom as well.All right. So now we can drop in the heat shield into the engine bay. One thing to note before you start is you wanna make sure your factory grommet is here next to the U-nut clip where the 10-millimeter bolt's gonna go through. If it's not there, check the bottom of your factory tubing to make sure you can pull it off and put it back in. Now, for this, you're gonna feed the air duct into the grille, lining up with that factory unit. It may take some finessing to get that done. There you go. Line up this to the grommet and the factory spacer here to the U-nut clip underneath. All right. So now we can grab our factory 10-millimeter and put it through. Grab your extension and your 10-millimeter socket and tighten it down.All right. So now we can focus on our tubing. Now, it can get a little tight next to this coolant reservoir, so I like to pull out the hose fitting from underneath and plug that guy in first just to make our life a little easier. With that hose plugged in, line this guy up to the throttle body and connect the coupler and then make sure the other end is seating into this dent or this indent here in the airbox. Grab your 7-millimeter socket or your flathead and tighten down that clamp. All right. Make sure both of these are tight. Next step, grab your filter, make sure the clamp is on the end there. What I like to do is to locate that chrome strip in the media and make sure that's facing down. So that's gonna be our bottom. Install that onto the tubing there. Grab your socket or your flathead and tighten down your clamp. Grab your MAF harness. We're gonna plug that guy in. Now, if you don't have enough slack, you can disconnect one of these lines here and bring her around. Plug it in, drop the red locking tab. Now, this retaining pin here, there is a pre-drilled hole for that, so we're gonna push that guy into the new housing. All right. So now we can plug back in our breather line into our new fitting there. And you may need to rotate the fitting head to snap in there properly. Now, if you have your sound tube, you plug that in now, but, of course, we took ours out and deleted it so we can skip that step. The last step here is optional, but you can see the weatherstripping that'll seal in under the hood. There's one gap right over the tubing, So they include this foam block from JLT and that's gonna sit right in there just like this so when you shut the hood, it presses up against the foam block and meets down at the weatherstripping and seals out to the engine bay heat.All right. So now we can throw our engine cover back on. Now, for the 10-millimeter nuts, I like to grab the 10 socket and our extension here and take the nut, put it into the extension and socket and just feed it down there with your finger onto the stud and just thread it on a couple by hand and do the same thing for the other one and then we'll tighten it down with our impact. And you can follow that up with those plastic caps. Last step is to feed your strut tower brace over to the driver side. Feed it under the battery terminal harness and back onto your studs. All right. So now we can grab our 15-millimeter nuts and tighten them back down. All right. And, of course, you can put that harness clip back on. And from there you're good to go.First step here, we have to plug the tuner into our OBD2 port. Grab the harness included in the kit. This guy's gonna plug into the OBD2 port located under the driver side dash, which is located just above the hood release. All right, once you to have that plugged in, take this end, plug it into the top of your Rev-X and you're good to go.All right, guys. Now, the first thing I wanna do is teach you guys how to install your tune. So from the main menu, once you plug your device in, you're gonna press Program Vehicle, Confirm your VIN. It may ask you to connect to WIFI. If you're near a local network, you wanna connect to that. It'll also ask if you need a device update. We've already taken care of that, so we're gonna hit Skip, but if you haven't, it's a good idea to go ahead and update your device now. All right. So at this point, it's updating the firmware. Again, once it's complete, it'll kick you back to the main menu and we'll be able to tune the vehicle. All right. Once the update is complete can click OK, it'll again, prompt you that internet is required. Connect to your WIFI network. Ours is already connected. At this point, it'll ask for cloud sync. If you're tuning or put your tune on the cloud, you can sync it from the cloud to your device now. Ours is already downloaded. Now, you can do it the old-fashioned way and plug your tuner into the computer and drag and drop it with your device updater software. That's what we've done. So we're gonna skip Cloud Sync. It'll give you a street notice use. Make sure your ignition is on, but do not start the engine. Press Continue. At this point, you wanna select the tune you wanna upload. So you guys may have an 87, 91, and 93 tune but for the sake of our video, we only have the 93 octane tune, that's what we're gonna show you guys on the dyno to give some good numbers. So we're gonna select our 93 octane. At this point, it'll ask if you wanna make any changes to the tune, including, you know, rev limiter, speed limiter, gear ratio, tire size, so on and so forth. You can do so now and click Change. We don't wanna change any of those additional tune options so we're gonna hit Skip. Confirm. It'll move forward with saving your stock file from the vehicle to the device. If you ever wanna revert back to stock, you'll have that available on your Rev-X. From there, it'll load our tune, write it, and we'll be good to go. Now, it may load 0 to 100 a couple of times. Leave it be. Don't unplug the device and don't turn off your vehicle. All right, at this point, turn the ignition off. Press Continue. Turn it on. Press Continue. At this point, turn the ignition off. It'll prompt you to turn it back on. Ignition off one more time. Back on. It'll finish up clearing all of the DTC codes and your programming is complete.All right. Now that we walked through programming your vehicle, I wanna take you through some of the other Rev-X by SCT features. Right under Program Vehicle, you'll find Gauges and Datalog. That's exactly what it sounds like. If we click on that, turn your key on, press Continue. Basically what this will do is allow you to track live engine vitals like boost if you're forced induction, coolant temp, trans temp, so on and so forth. You just wanna make sure you're selecting the right options, so we're Ford gas and newer, '08 and newer. You wanna make sure you're selecting the right gen. It'll scan datalog, reconnect to the ECU, read the data. Right now there are two gauges up on the screen, Control Module Voltage and Coolant Temp. Now, those are two things you can track. You can also click to the right, go down to Select Gauge Layout and select a number of different layouts, including Portrait and Landscape mode if you wanted to turn your device. You can monitor up to eight vitals at once, so if we wanted to go in and change one of these... I'm gonna go back to something a little more simplistic. Let's say this layout here, we have one larger gauge and two smaller ones below it. If we wanna change control module voltage, we click on it, select Item. Say we wanna track intake air temp. Select that, approve, and it updates that block. It's extremely, extremely easy to use and if you go to the right, you can start recording this data, send it over to your tuner, you can have revisions made if need be. You can stop datalogging here and it'll take you back to the main menu. So really useful stuff, gauges and datalogging working together.Vehicle functions, you can read and clear diagnostic trouble codes and that's gonna be useful for the guys who have check engine light. You wanna check it out, get your code, a description, clear it when you're finished. Special functions, something not many people, if any, are really gonna use that function for like cam set, so on and so forth. So we're gonna skip all that. Vehicle Info is pretty useful for the guys looking to request a new tune, who wanna know their VIN number, maybe the sticker fell off. You can access that vehicle info in the Device Settings. Same with ECM strategy code which is needed for new tunes as well. Device Info, sort of similar but for your device, serial number, part number, device name, app name, and your update, firmware version. It's good to know if you're at the latest software.Device settings. The top four are the most useful. Check for updates, cloud file sync, upload datalog to cloud and WIFI. WIFI connectivity is gonna allow you to do the other three. Basically, you have wireless capabilities with the Rev-X. You don't have to plug it into a computer or laptop. You can go right on the WIFI network, you can check for updates, download the update, install the updates on your Rev-X. Cloud file sync, if your tuner uploaded your file to the cloud, you can access it and put it on your tuner wirelessly, again, without your computer or laptop. Same thing with uploading your datalog files. If you go into Gauges and Datalog, say you want your datalog recorded, you can upload it to the cloud there so your tuner can access that wirelessly on the other end.The rest of the settings are brightness, orientation, you can flip it to portrait mode...or landscape mode rather and back to portrait, theme, power management, audio, startup function, demo mode, and you can do a factory reset to erase everything. Now, if you picked up a windshield mount or somewhere to mount this in arm's reach, the orientation could be important If you wanted to mount it like this. It's all personal preference. Go right to Exit, back to the main menu and those are gonna be your Rev-X features.That's gonna wrap up my review, install, and dyno test for the JLT cold air intake that does require a tune, perfectly paired with the Rev-X by SCT with one Lund Racing tune for the 2018 and newer Mustang GT. If you wanna pick yours up, you can do so right here at americanmuscle.com.
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Features, Description, Reviews, Q&A, Specs & Installation
**Please Note: The Rev-X ships blank from AmericanMuscle, the custom tune file will be emailed directly to the end user within 4 business days from Lund Racing.
It's highly recommended to download Free LiveLink and Updater Software. The LiveLink Application is used to view, data log, record and playback your Mustang's PCM data on a laptop computer. The Updater Application lets you update your device's Firmware, Tune Revision or to load Custom Tunes onto your device. Requires Windows Vista/7/8/10 and an internet connection.
Fitment: 2018 2019 2020 Details
CA Residents: WARNING: Cancer and Reproductive Harm - www.P65Warnings.ca.gov
(approx) 1 Hour
Simple installation for anyone.
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