Talk to a F-150 Sales Tech
1-888-706-1096
M-F 8:30A-11P, Sat-Sun 8:30A-9P
$20K Sweeps! 10 Chances to Win! Enter Daily >

2.75-Inch Front / 1-Inch Rear Lift Kit (04-08 2WD/4WD F-150)

Item T526062
Verify parts fit and get product recommendations.
F-150 Sales Techs: Connect Now M-F 8:30A-11P, Sat-Sun 8:30A-9P
$0.00
On Sale

$291.99

FREE Shipping Market Price $353.05 You Save 17% ($61.06) Up to 10% off for Military & First Responders! See Details

Will this fit your Vehicle?

Select a different vehicle Help?
Update or Change Vehicle
Ship to: Ashburn - 20149
Sorry, please enter a valid US or CA postal code
We're sorry, zip can't be updated at this time.
    Create a list
    Add to New List

    Saved - View your saved items

    We're sorry. We couldn't save this product at this time.

    or use

      Product Videos

      Hey, guys, it's Sara with americantrucks.com. And, today, we have a review and install of the 2.75-inch front and 1-inch rear lift kit, fitting your two-wheel drive and four-wheel drive '04 to '08 F-150s. This is perfect for the F-150 owner who wants a budget-friendly way to give their truck a more level appearance and make some more room for wheels and tires. This kit provides lift in the front end of your truck to make some more room for wheels and tires and evens out that factory rake. I did want to note that these spacers measure in at 2 inches for the rear and an inch and a quarter for the front. Now, the rest of the lift in the front is made up for by the change in suspension geometry achieved by installing this spacer. Stock tire sizes may vary. On our truck, stock is a 31-inch tire, which is what you will see in this video. And, with this kit installed, the manufacturer notes you can fit up to a 33-inch tire comfortably. Now, for reference, we did put a 35 on, but we did see a significant amount of rubbing, so it's safe to say a 33 is the largest tire you can fit with this kit. This spacer kit features a steel construction with a black powder coat finish and includes all necessary mounting hardware for install.So, as far as price goes, this kit comes in at around $350, making it a budget-friendly way to give your truck a more level appearance and make some more room for wheels and tires. And, as far as the install goes, I'm giving this one a three out of three wrenches on the difficulty meter. It does feature a direct bolt-up install with no modification required and can be done within two hours. So, with that said, let's check out that install.For this install, we used an impact gun, but a regular hand ratchet will work just fine. You'll also need 30, 24, 22, 21, 18, 15, and 13-millimeter sockets, a swivel extension, flathead screwdriver, as well as a pop clip removal tool, 18, 14, and 15-millimeter wrenches, a rubber mallet as well as a hammer. You may want a caliper hanger or similar tool, a vacuum pump, and a pry bar. All right. So, the first step in our uninstall, with your truck in the air and the wheel removed, we're going to grab a 21-millimeter socket and remove the nut holding on the outer tie rod to the knuckle.And once the nut is removed, remove it from your knuckle. Now, this is hung up. You can tap on the side of the knuckle with a hammer in order to release that ball joint. Next up, you're going to remove the caliper off the knuckle. Grab an 18-millimeter socket and remove the 2 caliper bolts. And once those bolts are removed, you can remove the caliper. You can wiggle it off, but if it's not wanting to come off easily, you can use a pry bar or large flathead. And once your caliper is off, grab a caliper hanger or a similar tool, even a bungee cord, and hang it off to the side. Make sure there's no tension on the brake line. And, now, you can remove the rotor. I placed a lug nut on one of the studs while we were taking the caliper off just for safety so it didn't come loose.And now that it is off, we can remove it. And if for some reason yours is hung up, you can hit right back here with a rubber mallet to release it. Next up, we're going to disconnect these two lines that go to the knuckle. We're going to start with this sensor here. Just go ahead and follow that line up. You'll see a long back behind the brake line right up to that pop clip there. And using a pop clip removal tool, go ahead and get that removed out of this metal bracket. Continuing to follow it up, you'll see it attached to the wheel well liner. Go ahead and pop that out. And, again, you can use your trim tool if you need.And once that's popped out, it may be hard to see, but there is a black connector there, go ahead and press down and disconnect this line. Then once this line is disconnected, follow it back down and pop it out of both of these plastic brackets. Make sure you're also disconnecting it from the air line. Then moving to the back of the knuckle, you'll see that air line's vacuum line here. Just pull up to remove this. Next up, we're moving to the upper ball joint here. I have a 21-millimeter socket and a swivel extension. Go ahead and get this removed. I'm going to thread this back on just slightly so that we can have this in place when we release our upper ball joint. Now, we have that nut on to protect the threads, and in order to release this upper ball joint, you're going to hit the top of the knuckle right on the side with your hammer. Now, once that ball joint is released, grab a pry bar, and we're going to pry down on that upper control arm so that we can remove the nut and release the upper control arm from the knuckle.Now, what we're going to do is pull suction on the back of the knuckle where that vacuum line went to. Grab your vacuum pump and place the line over the larger port. Now, you can pull vacuum. You want to pull between 15 and 20 pounds. And this will allow the four-wheel drive to disengage so we can remove the axle. Now, to remove the knuckle, you do need to remove the nut off the axle, and to get to that, you need to remove this dust boot. I'm going behind it with a flathead screwdriver. Now, if this does not work, you can also use a hammer, but you should be able to pry it off. Then once the dust cover is removed, grab a 13-millimeter socket and remove this nut. Make sure that your vacuum is still pulled as we will now start to remove the axle. Now, to remove the lower ball joint, we're going to remove this nut with a 24-millimeter socket.We're going to thread the nut back on to hold it in place, and keep in mind this is the last thing holding the knuckle on the truck, so be very careful. And, now, we're going to release the lower ball joint in the same method we released the upper. Now, again, this nut is in place to both catch this knuckle and also protect the threads. So, grab your mallet and tap the very back of the knuckle. And, now, with the ball joint released, remove the nut on the bottom and remove the knuckle off of your truck. Now, we're underneath our control arm here. You can remove the entire end link itself, or we can just remove the nut that's holding it to the lower control arm so that we can get our strut out. With an 18-millimeter socket, go ahead and get this removed. Now, we can remove the large through bolt through the bottom of our strut assembly. With a 30-millimeter socket, we're on the nut side, and we have a 27-millimeter wrench on the bolt side, go ahead and get this removed.And then if the bolt does not want to remove by hand, you can slide a pry bar just right in the bottom and sort of wiggle it until you find the sweet spot and remove it. Now, with a 15-millimeter ratcheting wrench or socket, we're going to remove the nuts on the top of the strut assembly. I'm going to leave this nut threaded on a bit just to hold it in place while I remove the rest of them. And then you may need a ratchet and socket for the back one just to be able to clear the top of the strut. Then you can remove that last nut. And then once all the bolts are removed, you can remove the strut assembly. I'm going to press down on the lower control arm, slide it out and down, and remove it off the truck. Now that we have the strut off of the truck, we can install the spacer. Now, this only goes on one way, so make sure it's lined up properly with the studs. And then you can install the included hardware over your factory studs.Then with a 15-millimeter socket, tighten it down. Now, we can get the strut assembly reinstalled. Line up the studs on your new spacer with the top of the strut tower. And once it's lined up, we're going to thread one of the included nuts on there to hold it in place while we get the bottom installed. And now to line up the bottom of the strut assembly, we're going to pry down with a pry bar and line up the bottom of the strut. If you need to, you can use a rubber mallet to tap it in place. Then once you have that lined up, go ahead and slide in your bolt. Then install the nut on the other side. Then with your 30-millimeter socket and 27-millimeter wrench, go ahead and tighten this down. Now, you can install the other two nuts on top of the studs on the top of the strut assembly.And with your 14-millimeter socket or a ratcheting wrench, tighten it down. And, again, we're going to use a socket for the back one just because we need a little bit more height to clear the studs up front. So, with our 14-millimeter socket, tighten this one down as well.Now, before we can get the knuckle re-installed, I wanted to show you a little bit about why we removed this. Now, as you can see on the center there, there's a ring with teeth on it that go over your axle. This is what engages your four-wheel drive. So, when we pull vacuum, you can kind of see it moving a little bit. We get to our just under 20 PSI and then keep an eye on that ring as I release the vacuum. And if we don't pull vacuum on this tab, you can risk damaging that four-wheel drive, so it's a little bit easier and safer to just remove this with vacuum as a whole. And now with vacuum still pulled, we're going to line up the knuckle over the lower ball joint as well as the axle simultaneously. And once you have a few threads on the lower ball joint, go ahead and thread that nut on.Now, once your lower ball joint nut is in place, go ahead and push back so the axle is all the way through. You should see a bit of a shoulder behind the threads to know that it's fully seated and then thread that factory nut on. Then once you have that in place, grab a 13-millimeter socket and tighten it down. Now, we have the truck closer to the ground, we have a floor jack underneath it, and we have a bungee cord just supporting the top of the knuckle, what we're going to do is just go ahead and raise that lower control arm with the jack so that we can compress the strut assembly, bring the lower control arm up, and help line up our upper control arm a little bit easier. Now, we remove that bungee cord up top, and I'm going to use a pry bar to pry down on that upper control arm. We're going to line that upper ball joint up in the top of the knuckle and thread on that factory nut. Now, grab a 21-millimeter socket, and you may want a swivel extension, and then pry down as you tighten this nut. And make sure you tighten down that 24-millimeter nut for your lower ball joint as well. Then once your knuckle is fully attached, go ahead and pull the vacuum and re-install the factory vacuum line.Now, you can re-install this dust cover for the axle. Now, you can press it back into place, or you can lightly tap it back in with a rubber mallet. Now, we can re-install the brake rotor. Line it up over top of your wheel studs. And I recommend throwing a lug nut just to hold it in place for safety until the caliper is on. And, now, we can grab our caliper off the hanger and line it up over top of the rotor. You can go ahead and slide it into place. And once the caliper is in place, you can install the hardware. Then with your 18-millimeter socket, go ahead and tighten it down.And, now, we can plug back in the sensor line. The connector is right behind your wheel well liner, and if you reach up, you can get it. Make sure you replace the push clip into the wheel well liner, as well as the next pop clip that goes in this metal bracket. Moving down the line, make sure you're placing it back in the two plastic brackets on the brake line, as well as the clip on the air line. Now, we're back down towards the ground so that we can line up our outer tie rod. We are jacking up on the lower control arm a bit just so we can get this to clear, and wiggling it back and forth should get it to line up through your knuckle.Go ahead and re-install that factory nut. And with your 21-millimeter socket, tighten it down. And, now, we're underneath our control arm so that we can reconnect the sway bar. I'm threading the factory nut on there. And I did want to point out, if you're doing both sides simultaneously, you may just want to leave both sway bar end links disconnected until very last. But once you're ready to re-install it, go ahead and grab that 18-millimeter socket and tighten it down. All right. And now that this side is fully complete, make sure you repeat all of those steps on your driver side. Once they're both complete, make sure everything is torqued to spec, and we'll head to the rear to do our rear install. And, now, we're at the rear of the truck. We have it a little bit higher in the air, and we have our axle supported with pole jacks. Now, if you're on the ground, you can use a floor jack as well, but once you have that supported, we can go ahead with our uninstall. Now, with that axle supported, grab an 18-millimeter wrench and a 15-millimeter socket to get the bolt out of the bottom of our shock.Next up, grab a 21-millimeter socket and remove all the nuts on the U-bolts holding the leaf spring to the axle. Remove the bracket and set it aside for later, and then remove the U-bolts off the truck as well. And now that we have the U-bolts removed, we can lower down the axle. Now, because this is a straight axle truck, it may be easier to do both sides simultaneously. But once you're ready, go ahead and lower down the axle just enough where we can get the lift block out. And once you have enough room, go ahead and remove the factory block. Next up, we can install the new lift block right in the exact spot as the factory one. And go ahead and raise the axle back up as you line up the lift block. Now, there are two holes in the top and two holes in the bottom, and that's what we're looking to line up here.And once it's lined up, go ahead and raise it until the leaf spring meets with the spacer and it meets with the axle. And once you have that lock in place, go ahead and install the new U-bolts. Then you can go ahead and line up the factory bracket over top of your new U-bolts. Then install the included hardware. There's a washer as well as a nut. Get those installed over the ends of each of the U-bolts. Then with your 22-millimeter socket, go ahead and tighten these down. Now, you want to try to tighten these as evenly as possible and in a cross pattern. And, finally, we can line up and re-install the bottom shock. You may need to compress it a bit in order to get it lined up. And with your 18-millimeter wrench and 15-millimeter socket, tighten it down.All right. Now that this side is complete, make sure you repeat all of those steps on your driver side. Make sure everything is torqued to spec, and you will need a professional alignment afterwards. But that is going to do it for the review and install of this leveling kit. And remember, for all things F-150, keep it right here at americantrucks.com.

      Product Information

      Features, Description, Reviews, Q&A, Specs & Installation

      Features & Specs

      • Suspension and Block Lift Kit
      • Provides 2.75" in the Front
      • Provides 1" in the Rear
      • Evens Truck Stance
      • Increases Ground Clearance
      • Maintains Stock Ride Quality
      • Accommodates Up to 33 inch Tires
      • Made in the USA
      • Completely Bolt On
      • Fits 2004-2008 2WD and 4WD F-150s

      Description

      Priced Affordably. At just the right price point, you will find the Traxda 2.75 in. Front / 1 in. Rear Lift Kit is the perfect addition to your stock truck. You will receive a modest 2.75 inches in the front and 1 inch in the rear. You can sport that stance that is not only aggressive, but screams that you are ready to head off the blacktop. This kit is made in the USA and will provide you with ground clearance, so that you can take on rocks and logs as they come at you. One of the nice things about the Traxda 2.75 in. Front / 1 in. Rear Lift Kit is that it can accommodate up to 33-inch tires and maintain the stock quality ride that you have come to love and enjoy. This kit does not require you to have aftermarket shocks either and you can enjoy your stock shocks. Traxda is one of the best brands on the market and they make all of their kits with the driver in mind. All parts to the Traxda 2.75 in. Front / 1 in. Rear Lift Kit comes laser cut and perfected for a nice fit. You will find that the quality materials allow your lift to hold up over time and you do not have to deal with the squeaks and uncomfortable ride of a worn-out system.

      Bolt-On, Simple Application. The Traxda 2.75 in. Front / 1 in. Rear Lift Kit is simple to install and is a bolt-on application, for your convenience. It is recommended that you have some mechanical experience to install this kit. You can expect installation to take about two hours total and all hardware and parts come with this kit.

      Application. This Traxda 2.75 in. Front / 1 in. Rear Lift Kit is designed for use on 2004-2008 Ford F-150s equipped with two-wheel drive (2WD) or four-wheel drive (4WD).

      Shop All 1 to 2 Inch Truck Lift Kits

      Shop All Truck Parts And Accessories

      Shop All Truck Lift Kits

      Fitment:

      Details

      CA Residents: WARNING: Cancer and Reproductive Harm - www.P65Warnings.ca.gov

      Installation & What's in the Box

      Installation Info

      What's in the Box

      • (2) Strut Caps
      • (2) Rear Lift Blocks
      • (4) U-Bolts
      • Hardware
      4.5

      Customer Reviews (2)

        Reviews of similar Suspension products have an average rating of 4.3 out of 5

          Questions & Answers

          10 More Questions

          Will It Fit My F-150

          • 4.2L V6 - 05, 06, 07, 08
          • 4.6L V8 - 04, 05, 06, 07, 08
          • 5.4L V8 - 04, 05, 06, 07, 08