As you can see by these examples, jet requirements can vary a lot depending on fuel, altitude, and temperature. Oxygenated fuels are available in some states and can dramatically affect your jetting requirements. Make sure you get your jetting correct.
Aviation fuel is lighter and will require richening an engine in relationship to its requirement with "pump gas." We have found in the dyno testing of our crate engines that 1 point richer on air/fuel ratio equals only a few percent less power. Running an engine as lean as possible produces the best power but also increases combustion temperatures and the chances of engine damage.
COMMON PROBLEMS WITH FUEL DELIVERY SYSTEMS
Do not mount an EFI electric fuel pump so it has to draw fuel from the tank. This creates a negative pressure in the fuel line allowing the fuel to boil at a lower temperature.
The pump must be mounted in the tank or in a location so that it is gravity fed. If the fuel rail is too small and you have large injectors, this can create a pulse in the fuel rail allowing fuel starvation on some cylinders.
Fuel should be pushed through the fuel filter. Pulling fuel through a filter can cause cavitation. If a filter is to be used on the inlet of a rail-mounted fuel pump, a filter rating of 160 microns MINIMUM should be used. It takes approximately ½ lb of gasoline to support 1 hp. This is commonly referred to as a .5 BSFC. You should always err in the safe direction of larger when sizing your injectors and fuel pump.
COOLING SYSTEM CONSIDERATIONS/COMMON PROBLEMS
Higher horsepower requires more cooling capacity.
When the fill point of the cooling system is not the highest point, air pockets are created. The air pockets then create hot spots, and the hot spots promote improper combustion, which can cause engine failure. Improper pulley size makes the fan and water pump turn too slow or too fast. Production water pumps are normally run at 20% over engine speed and do not perform well over 5000 engine rpm. Underdrive pulleys generally reduce water pump speed to 85% of engine rpm and may not provide enough water flow to cool the engine. The radiator must have enough area to dissipate the heat being generated by the engine. If the fan size is too small, it will not move enough air across the radiator so it can properly dissipate the heat being generated. Fan shrouds increase the effectiveness of the fan significantly. Radiator location can affect airflow through the radiator at different vehicle speeds.
FLYWHEEL, CONVERTER, AND TRANSMISSION PROBLEMS
Installing the wrong flywheel for the balance factor of the engine will cause vibration and eventually damage the engine.
Wrong length input shaft or "stack up height" can force the crank forward and damage the engine thrust bearing.
Improperly installing the torque converter can force the crank forward damaging the engine thrust bearing. This is most commonly caused from not locating the torque converter drain plug properly in the flexplate. If the torque converter balloons, it can force the crank forward, damaging the engine thrust bearing and the transmission. Most high-performance torque converters have anti-ballooning features. Damage to the thrust bearing can happen in seconds!
MISCELLANEOUS PROBLEMS THAT CAN DAMAGE AN ENGINE
Nuts, bolts, washers, or foreign materials dropped down the intake. We have seen this more than once. Reusing an intake off an engine that had broken parts in a cylinder. The parts can get bounced up into the intake manifold, carburetor, or air cleaner (pieces of piston or piston rings, etc.). When you put your used intake on your new engine and start it, the pieces are drawn in and damage your engine.
Bead blasting an EFI intake. You will NEVER get all the blasting media out. When the engine is started, it draws the blasting media into the cylinders, destroying the engine. Not properly torquing fasteners when installing new parts to your engine. Over-torquing of the intake manifold bolts to cylinder head on 302 and 351W engines can cause head gasket sealing problems. Intake bolts must have 5/8” of thread engagement.
Distributor gears installed at the incorrect height and gears made of the wrong material. We have seen this with many remanufactured distributors as well as popular aftermarket manufacturers of distributor assemblies. Use cast iron gears for cast iron flat tappet cams, and steel gears for steel hydraulic roller cams. The M-6007-X302 uses a steel camshaft.
ENGINE OIL RECOMMENDATIONS
Hydraulic roller cam-equipped engines use 10W30 or 10W40. OIL CAPACITY M-6007-X302, 5 quarts with M-6731-FL1A oil filter or equivalent.
Initial priming should be done before installing the engine into the vehicle. Transmission should not be installed. If there are any oiling system problems, it is easier to fix them with the engine out of the car. The engine should be primed once more after installation before starting the engine. This is very important if hooking up a remote filter and/or oil cooler.
IMPORTANT: For engines equipped with flat tappet cams, if the engine has set for a long period of time, priming alone may not provide enough lubrication. Removal of lifters and reapplying cam lube to the lobes and lifters is necessary. For hydraulic roller cams use engine oil.
DO NOT PRIME BY CRANKING ENGINE! Check oil level after priming engine and before starting.
STEP 1: Use appropriate priming tool or ¼" drive, ¼” deep-well socket with extension for 302.
STEP 2: Install mechanical oil pressure gauge.
STEP 3: Remove valve covers.
STEP 4: Rotate priming tool counterclockwise using an electric drill.
STEP 5: Observe oil pressure achieved on gauge.
STEP 6: Prime until oil comes up through the rocker arms. This may require rotation of the crankshaft to obtain oil flow through all the rocker arms.
STEP 7: Look for external oil leaks.
STEP 8: Reinstall valve covers.
STEP 9: After installing the engine into the vehicle and just before starting it, prime the engine again using above procedure. Valve covers do not have to be removed on 2nd prime if not hooking up an oil cooler or remote filter. Prime for 1 minute after reaching oil pressure. If you have added a remote filter or oil cooler, remove the valve covers and verify oil flow to the rocker arms.
STEP 10: Check oil level after priming engine and before starting.
DISTRIBUTOR GEAR INSTALLATION INSTRUCTIONS:
The M-6007-X302 comes with a billet steel hydraulic roller camshaft. M-12390-B or F steel distributor gear required. The following information covers the installation of a new distributor gear onto an existing distributor. When replacing the distributor gear, it is important that you choose the appropriate gear for your application. If you have questions regarding your gear selection, please contact the Ford Racing Techline at 1-800-367-3788. Failure to use the correct gear will lead to premature gear failure. Premature gear failure may also be attributed to improper meshing of the gear teeth between the camshaft and distributor. For that reason, we recommend that you install a new distributor gear when installing a new camshaft.
STEP 1: Remove roll pin from distributor gear and shaft. Save pin for re-assembly.
STEP 2: Verify that the shaft endplay is .024" to .035". Modify collar if necessary. Some aftermarket distributors may be constructed in a manner that does not allow you to achieve .024" to .035" of endplay. See “Alternative method of verifying correct distributor gear installation” if your distributor does not have .024" to .035" endplay.
STEP 3: Press original distributor gear off shaft.
STEP 4: Mark location of original roll pinhole on the shaft by drawing a vertical line along the shaft that intersects the hole. Measure from the centerline of the roll pinhole to a fixed point above it. Note that dimension.
STEP 5: Press new distributor gear onto shaft.
NOTE: Replacement distributor gear does not have roll pinhole.
STEP 6: Pull distributor shaft out of distributor housing to eliminate endplay (see Fig. 1).
STEP 7: Check location of distributor gear on distributor shaft (see Fig. 1). If it is not in the correct location, use a press to move the gear to the correct location.
STEP 8: Using the vertical line on the distributor shaft and the noted dimension (see STEP 4), roughly plot where the original roll pinhole is located. Drill a new .125" hole 90° from the original hole, above or below it, through the gear and the shaft.
NOTE: It is important that the dimensions called out in Fig. 1 are maintained while drilling.
STEP 9: Insert roll pin and check dimensions (see Fig. 1).
WARNING: If the distributor gear is installed incorrectly, it may be forced down against the support in the block or may be held up away from the support in the block. Both conditions will cause damage to the block and or the block and gears. When the gear is properly installed, the cut on the gears and the direction of rotation will pull the distributor gear down against the support (distributor gear thrust face) in the block.