Raise and support the vehicle on jack stands or a lift. Remember to block or chock the rear tires.
Disconnect the negative (-) cable from the battery.
Label and remove the spark plug wires. Be careful as the rubber boot may have seized to the spark plug itself. Gently twist the boot until it breaks free.
Make sure to remove any debris which may have gathered near the exhaust ports.
Soak all necessary bolts with penetrating oil to allow for easy removal. Be careful, old and rusty manifold bolts break easily. Removing them from the head is no walk in the park.
Unbolt the motor mounts as jacking or lifting of the engine may be necessary.
Removal of the front rim/tire may help gain access to lower header bolts.
Dip stick tube removal may be necessary on some applications
Unbolt the factory h-pipe from the factory manifold and the factory cat-back. Disconnect the O2 sensor wiring and remove the h-pipe.
The driver’s side is no different. Loosen the 2 18mm nuts and bolts just like the driver side. The only difference at least for my car is the bolt that mounts the control arm to the body is kind of tough to get at. This is where the swivel socket and 4” extension comes in handy.
Place the socket and extension between the exhaust and the body.
Unbolt and remove the driver and passenger side factory manifolds. Removal of AIR or EGR accessories may be necessary on some applications.
Clean and prep the gasket mounting surface for the new headers.
When installing your new headers, snug the bolts starting from the center working your way to each end in a crisscross pattern. Finish by tightening all the bolts using the same method. It’s always good to use anti-seize compound when installing header bolts.
Dipstick stick removal is necessary.
An “E7” female torx socket will be necessary to remove the manifold studs.
If you choose, you can reuse your original studs and nuts.
Removal of the coil pack will also be necessary.
Make sure to reconnect and tighten any EGR, battery cables, motor mounts, steering racks, steering shaft, intake tubes, or strut tower braces.
Make sure all hoses and wiring is clear from the header tubes.
Reinstall your H-pipe. Properly seat the ball and sockets and tighten.
Installation instructions provided by Pypes Performance Exhausts
These guys are great! Customer service is absolutely top notch. Their pricing points are spot on and every month they off some sort of special on multiple parts. Not only that but the staff will educate you on the parts and their customer reveiw option of every part has been a huge help in determining the validity of each part you buy. American Muscle is the perfect example of what a full service parts distributor and custom tuning shop should be. I'm just glad they are Mustang exclusive!
All my other cars were all-wheel drive, my brother had an 04 cobra and i wanted to compete and beat him with naturally aspirated so i went with a mach1 - and beat him. Now he works here too! I got lucky and was able to find one of the...
Ford, Ford Mustang, Mustang GT, SVT Cobra, Mach 1 Mustang, Shelby GT 500, Cobra R, Bullitt Mustang, SN95, S197, V6 Mustang, Fox Body Mustang, and 5.0 Mustang are registered trademarks of Ford Motor Company. Saleen is a registered trademark of Saleen Incorporated. Roush is a registered trademark of Roush Enterprises Inc. AmericanMuscle has no affiliation with the Ford Motor Company, Roush Enterprises, or Saleen. Throughout our website and Mustang catalog these terms are used for identification purposes only.