August 01, 2016
Do it right the 1st time...
I am one who believes if you're going to something right; do it right the 1st time.
I first bought the McLeod stainless braided clutch line and even though when I received it, it definitely appeared to be a well made line, I wasn't crazy about the idea of having to zip-tie it around to clear areas by the master cylinder and headers since the whole line is flexible. The other thing about the McLeod line that bothered me is that the nipples are separate and you have to screw them onto the line ends; introducing two more possible areas for leaks (these fittings will not leak if you snug them in good; but it's just 2 more connections on my mind)
,,, I saw the FRPP clutch line and even though it's definitely pricier, it is made of hard stainless tubing which is bent to run under the master cylinder (out of the way) and down under the steering shaft, well away from the headers. The last 10" or so of the line, where it connects to the transmission, is quality SS braided line (Identical to the McLeod line) to allow for engine torque movement. The nice thing with this FRPP line is that the nipples are nicely welded onto the Stainless tubing and the fitting at the end of the braided section. So I returned my McLeod line to AM for the FRPP.
Installation was a challenge - removing the old line was easy (be careful to NOT lose the spring clips that lock the nipples in place). Installing the new line; I had to get my stepson to help and with his smaller hands. He was able to get up over the trans clutch elbow and insert the end and lock it in. ...I have my cats off and I still could not get quite enough room with my bigger hands to hold the end and insert it. My only other option would've been to remove the actual clutch elbow (held on by it's own spring clip) and insert the line and then re-insert the elbow into the trans. This I'm sure would work well for most, but since I had my stepson handy I figured I'd give him a shot :P
The top end of the hard line does ride very close under the bottom of the master cylinder, but I do not believe there is a chafing risk as the master cylinder nor the upper 'socket' for the clutch line ever move in different directions.
I did the auto bleed method afterwards. It did take about 100 pumps of the clutch (Keep your reservoir cap off; I believe it makes it bleed faster), and I had to use my hand due to the fact that the clutch kept bottoming out with the helper spring. It did finally bleed and tested it driving back and forth in the driveway with no issues.
As of yet I have not had it out on the road, but I am anxious to do so. I'm hoping that my highway speed downshift to third will be a lot smoother with less effort to engage.