7. With the strut out of the car, it’s time to remove the spring from the assembly. Use a spring compressor per the tool’s instructions to compress the spring. It’s important to compress as many coils of the spring as possible, so grab onto the uppermost and lowermost coils the jaws of the tool will fit around.
8. With all the pressure relieved from the upper strut bearing, use a 22mm open end wrench and a 10mm open end wrench to remove the nut holding the top of the bearing down onto the strut.
9. Remove the upper bearing, lift off the spring, and slide the dust cover and bump stop off the piston rod.
10. Installation is the opposite of removal. Slide the bump stop and dust cover back onto the piston rod of the new Tokico strut, then drop the spring onto the new strut and top it with the upper bearing.
11. Finger tighten the new nut (provided with the kit). Then torque the nut down to 38-49 ft/lbs using a 19mm open end wrench.DO NOTuse an impact wrench to tighten this nut, as it is possible to break the top of the piston rod.
12. With the strut reassembled, position it back in the shock tower (more hands may be helpful here) and tighten the four topside nuts to 26 ft/lbs using a 13mm deep well socket.
13. Raise the steering/braking assembly back into position and insert the 2 large bolts. Torque these to 148 ft/lbs.
14. Reconnect the sway bar end link and tighten the nut to 85 ft/lbs with an 18mm open end wrench and an 8mm open end wrench.
15. Reattach the brake line bracket to the new strut with a 10mm socket.
16. The rear suspension is a little easier. Support the axle tube with a floor jack. Start by removing the lower shock mounting bolt using a 15mm open end wrench