12. Also, make sure that when the suspension is compressed on the car, it does not touch the over-axle piping. Also, a problem that I had when installing the piping was the over-axle piece on the passenger side had a tendency to rub against the frame of the car at the top of the curve as it passes over the axle. Make sure that there is at least a good inch and a half clearance around the piping at all times. Remember, the exhaust pipe becomes very hot as the engine runs even for a short period of time. Just ask the burnt skin on my fingers.
13. After you are sure that the piping is all connected properly with no problems, start to tighten the band clamps with a 5/8”wrench. It may take a while, but make sure that everything is tight. Start the car to check for leaks and rattles.
MAKE SURE YOU ARE IN A WELL VENTILLATED AREA WHEN WORKING ON A CAR THAT IS RUNNING. EXHAUST GAS IS LETHAL.
14. While the car is running, lie down next to the car and look for leaks and listen for rattles. Leaks can be spotted by black or very dirty water shooting out between the pipes. Take note of where the exhaust leaks and rattles are and then shut the car off. Wait a few minutes until the piping cools off and tighten the places where the leaks are. If you hear a rattle, try and determine what two surfaces are touching and then move the pipe as necessary to stop the rattling. If the pipes are leaking, tighten them and then turn the car on to see if you fixed it. If they keep leaking, repeat the past steps until it stops leaking. After I installed the kit and turned the car on, I had about five leaks in the system. Take it one step at a time and fix one leak at a time. Below is what the piping looks like if it has a leak in it. The black smudge by the band clamp is the exhaust leaking.