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J&M Mustang 4-Bolt Caster Camber Plates ('05-'10) - Installation Instructions

Installation Time

4 hours

Tools Required
  • 3/8" Ratchet
  • 1/2" Ratchet
  • 8mm Socket and Wrench
  • 10mm Socket and Wrench
  • 18mm Socket and Wrench
  • 19mm Socket and Wrench
  • Spring Compressor
  • Torque Wrench
  • Jack and Jack Stands or Lift
American Muscle
Shop Parts in this Guide

Installation

Installation

1. Loosen the front wheels while car is on the ground.

2. The next thing you’re going to want to do is raise the car up either on jack stands or supported via a lift to a proper working height.
3. Remove the front wheels.
4. After the wheels are removed remove the sway bar end link from the strut. To do this you may have to use a 8mm wrench to hold the center stud while you use a 18mm wrench to remove the nut. After the nut is removed push the stud through the hole.
5. Then you are going to want to remove the bolt that holds the brake line to the strut using a 10mm socket or wrench. After that remove the wiring harness that is pressed into a hole on the strut.

6. Using a jack stand support the disc. Then remove the two bolts that attach the strut to the knuckle using a 18mm socket. These bolts are on pretty tight, so using a ½ drive is recommended.


7. In the engine bay remove the 4 nuts that hold the strut to the shock tower using a 14mm socket. While doing so hold the strut so it doesn't just fall out. After the 4 nuts have been removed carefully pull the strut and spring assembly out.


8. Compress the spring using a spring compressor. You will know when the spring is compressed enough when the spring is not touching the factory upper strut mount.


9. Remove the bolt on top of the strut using a 19mm wrench. You might have to hold the stud with a 10mm wrench while you do this to prevent the stud from spinning.


10. Remove the factory upper strut mount.. Also remove the rubber spring isolator attached to the factory mount as this part will be used in the next step. To remove you may have to use a flat head screwdriver to pry it off the factory upper mount. Note*This is a good time to clean all the dirt and sand that may have ended up on the strut.


11. Next transfer the factory rubber spring isolator onto the J&M camber plate. Then take the long insert in the parts bag and slide it over the stud on the strut with the smaller diameter side facing up. After doing this take the camber plate a seat it on the insert you just installed. Then take the smaller insert and slide it on the stud, make sure the inserts and plate is seated properly. Then take the nut removed earlier and replace it on the strut. Torque the nut to 46 ft lbs.


12. You are now ready to release the spring pressure. Slowly release the pressure evenly on the spring compressor making sure that the spring is lined up correctly between the isolator and the bottom of the strut. Remove the spring compressor. Note* TheJ&M camber plate can be installed in a Street or Race setting, to install it in a street setting, install the plate so that the notch on the top of the plate is facing the engine bay. To install in a race setting install the notch facing the fender.


13. Once the spring tension is released replace the strut into the strut tower and using the supplied nuts and washers reattach the strut assembly to the strut tower. This may take a little persuasion since the J&M bolts are a little thicker than the factory studs. Torque nuts to 35 ft lbs


14. Reinstall the strut to knuckle bolts and torque to 148 ft lbs.
15. Reinstall the sway bar end link and torque nut to 85 ft lbs
16. Reinstall the brake line to the strut using the factory bolt and torque to 15 ft lbs
17. Reinstall the wiring harness to the strut.
18. Repeat steps 4-17 for the other side. Recheck torque settings on fasteners, replace wheels, and lower the car.

Installation instructions provided by AmericanMuscle customer Mike Underwood 5.19.09

This guide applies to Mustang years: 2005, 2006, 2007, 2008, 2009, 2010 and Submodels: Bullitt, V6, GT, GT500