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How to Install J&M Caster Camber Plates on your 2011-2014 Mustang

Installation Time

4 hours

Tools Required
  • Ratchet
  • 10mm, 13mm, 17mm, 18mm, 19mm, 21mm Sockets
  • 10mm & 21mm Wrenches
  • Torque Wrench
  • Jack
  • Jack Stands
  • Spring Compressor
  • Trim Panel Tool
American Muscle
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2005-Pres. Ford Mustang Camber Plate Installation Instructions:

J&M Products once again outdoes our competitors with these fully adjustable PATENT PENDING Camber & Caster plate assemblies for the 2005-2010 and 2011-up Ford Mustangs. This Camber/Caster kit is the ONLY kit that comes complete READY to bolt in right out of the box (no need to swap anything over from the factory mount). Whether you are using the car for street, autocross, road racing or drag racing these plates are designed for you. These are the only plates that have an offset design allowing for you to install them in the street orientation or a race orientation allowing for the most camber adjustment available compared to any other plate on the market. Just like our other Camber/Caster plates these come with a full lifetime warranty to the original purchaser of the product.


• Allows for camber and caster adjustment not available from the factory
• Allows you to align your Mustang back to factory specifications even when lowered
• Camber & caster are adjustable separately.
• Offset design allows for either street use or race use alignments.
• Provides for caster adjustment not found on the factory mounts
• Caster adjustment to allow correction for OEM production tolerances.
• Alignment is easily adjusted at the top of the strut tower.
• Spherical bearing eliminates un-wanted deflection and precisely locates the strut shaft during cornering.
• Completely assembled and bolts in with no need for extra drilling or cutting.
• ONLY kit that includes everything needed to install all the way down to the rubber spring isolator.
• Unlike competitors you don’t need to remove parts from the factory mount and install on our mount.

Product Features:

• Over 2.5 degrees of camber adjustment, adjustable without affecting caster.
• 0.7 degrees of range of caster adjustment.
• PTFE lined spherical bearing manufactured in the USA.
• All parts are either plated or powder coated for great looks and long lasting protection.
• US Patent Pending.
• Lifetime warranty on the entire camber plate to the original owner.

Note: These Camber/Caster plates are side specific.

Tools needed:

10mm, 13mm, 17mm, 18mm, 19mm, 21mm sockets
10mm & 21mm wrenches
torque wrench
jack stands
spring compressor
trim panel tool

Camber/Caster Plate Installation Sheet:

1. Raise the vehicle to adequate working height and properly support the vehicle using proper jack stands
(not a jack), then remove the wheels. If you have a strut tower brace, remove that as well. Re-install the
nuts on the strut after you remove the brace. Remove the 10mm bolt that holds the brake line to the strut.
Next, remove the wiring harness that is clipped to the strut. Use the trim panel tool to remove the wiring clip.

2. Remove the 18mm nut on the strut for the sway bar end link. Remove the end link from the strut by pushing it through the hole. Do Not Use Impact Gun

3. Support the rotor with a jack stand, jack, or and then remove the two 18mm bolts that attach the strut
to the knuckle. After the nuts are removed, you may need to wiggle the strut back and forth to be able to
slide the bolts out of the knuckle. Once the bolts are removed, you will see why a jack stand was needed
to support the rotor and knuckle assembly. If not properly supported, damage to the brake lines, wiring,
or ball joints could occur. If you prefer you can carefully remove the spindle to strut bolts and carefully
remove them while support the rotor by hand. Once
they are removed you will want to safety tie the
spindle/rotor assembly to the anti-roll bar to make
sure the brake line does not get damaged.

4. With everything under the car loosened, you can now remove the 4 nuts in the engine bay. Once these 4
nuts are removed, the strut will come right out, so be sure to hold the strut while removing the fasteners.

5. With the strut removed, you can now compress the spring with the spring compressor. Many auto parts
stores have a tool rental program if you don’t have your own. Usually, you leave a deposit for the tool,
and get 100% back when you return the tools to the store. Install one compressor on each side of the
spring, and engage the safety pins. Next you can start to compress the spring, compressing both sides
evenly. Take your time and do a little bit on each side until the spring is compressed.

6. The spring is compressed enough when the spring has no pressure on the upper mounting plate, as shown to the right.

7. Once the spring is compressed, remove the 21mm nut on the top of the strut. You may need to hold the
strut shaft with a 10 mm wrench to prevent it from spinning. Once the nut is removed, remove the upper
strut mount. We do NOT recommend using impact guns on struts or shocks.

8. Figure out which strut you have using the image below. If you have 2005-2010 proceed to step 9. If
you have 2011-up struts skip to step 13.


9. 2005-2010 struts you will install the long 1.550” spacer as shown below over the strut shaft.

10. Place the camber plate over the strut shaft and make sure spring seats properly into the rubber spring
isolator like shown. Strut not shown for clarity.

11. Place the small spacer that measures .465” total length over the strut shaft. Spring not shown.

12. Re-Install the strut nut and torque to factory specifications. Spring not shown. (Do Not Use
Impact Guns). Proceed to Step 16


13. 2011-Up struts install the dust cover, grade 8 lock washer, and the .600” long reducer spacer with the
small diameter facing upward as shown.

14. Place the camber plate over the strut shaft and make sure spring seats properly into the rubber spring
isolator like shown. Strut not shown for clarity.

15. 2011-Up will use the supplied machined reducer strut nuts as shown. Please note we supply two
different sets of nuts. The silver color is course thread and the yellow zinc ones are the fine thread. Some
aftermarket struts use a fine thread compared to the factory nut. Please make sure to test fit which nut on
the strut by hand before torquing to avoid damaging the threads. Once you have determined the proper
reducer nuts torque the strut nut to factory recommended torque specifications. Do Not Use Impact
Guns. Spring not shown.

16. Once the strut nuts have been torqued you can
now remove the spring compressor. Carefully remove
it and make sure the springs are seated properly in the
indexed area of the strut and camber plate spring

17. The bottom of the strut tower must be smooth and free from any raised metal or flash. Run you
finger across the underside of the tower and make sure it is smooth and free from scratches. If it is not
smooth file or sand down any rough spots.

18. The camber plate has a offset bearing design
which allows you to install them in a street setting or a
race setting. To install in the street setting which will
allow you to more positive camber for lowered cars
simply install with the notch toward the inside of the
car (engine side) and the race setting you will install the
notch toward the fender (outside) of the car.


If you are looking for a factory alignment setting
and you are 1” or more lowered we recommend
using the street setting/orientation.

If you are looking for a factory alignment setting
and you are 1” or less lowered we recommend
using the race setting/orientation.


Depending on the type of racing you are doing will
determine how much camber you want. Typically
road racing and auto cross will need more negative
camber. If you are setting your car up for this
we recommend using the race orientation.

19. We install one 8mm nut onto one of the studs to keep the caster plate in place during shipping. Make sure to remove this nut before trying to install the assembly into the car.

20. Carefully reinstall the strut assembly into the vehicle using the desired orientation from step # 18
and install the supplied 8mm washers and 8mm locking nuts. Do not tighten.

21. Install the supplied M10 x 20mm bolt with 10MM support washer into the caster slot in the factory tower. You can now snug all 5 mounting bolts and nuts.

22. Reattach the spindle to the strut and torque the
bolts to the factory setting of 148 lb-ft.

Note: Ford recommends replacing these bolts every
time you remove them. You can purchase these from
your local Ford dealer.

23. Reattach the ABS sensor wire and brake line
bracket and torque to Ford specifications of 15 lb-ft.

24. Reattach the sway bar end link and torque to
factory specifications of 85 lb-ft. Do not use an
impact gun.

25. With the tires still off the ground slide the strut all
the way forward toward the front of the car. You can
now tighten the M10 bolt to 26 lb/ft.
26. We recommend centering your strut shaft in the
center of the strut tower opening to get you to the
alignment shop. Once you have centered the strut you
can torque the 8mm locking nuts to 20 lb-ft.

27. Repeat the steps for the other side.

28. Install the wheels and safely lower the vehicle off
the jack stands to the ground. Make sure you torque
your wheels to the factory torque specifications.

29. Align your vehicle to your desired alignment
specifications or factory specifications if you are happy
with them. Caster should be set first.

Alignment Notes:

You will not be able to adjust these plates with the
vehicle on the ground or the suspension loaded. The
front must be raised in order to adjust the camber/
caster plate. Due to the anti-roll bar loading it may be
required to lift both front tires off the ground to make

These J&M camber/caster plates have separate
adjustments for camber and caster. You must adjust
caster first and lock down the M10 caster bolt to 26
lb-ft and then adjust camber.

This guide applies to Vehicle years: 2011, 2012, 2013, 2014 and Submodels: GT, V6, Boss 302