Figure 1- Before Picture
- Disconnect the battery
- Remover the strut tower brace (if installed)
Driver’s Side (LH)
*NOTE* Many of the pictures show the right hand side because they came out better. The Parts are identical Right to Left
- Remove the factory air intake or Cold Air Intake (CAI) - C&L Racer Intake pictured
- Disconnect the MAF sensor. (Figure 2)
- Disconnect the passenger side PCV hose.
- Disconnect air intake from throttle body.
- Disconnect air filter box (or CAI heat shield).
- Remove air intake.
Figure 2 - Removing the Cold Air Intake (or stock air intake) and MAF
- Remove the driver’s side PCV hose
- Remove the coil plugs – twist and pull
- Remove the screws attaching the coil plugs to the valve cover using the 7mm socket (Figure 3, and Figure 4)
- We completely disconnected them, labeled them, and set them aside (in order )
Figure 3 - Coil on Plug Bolts (Red), Electrical Connector (Yellow) and Fuel Injector Electrical Connector (Green)
Figure 4 - Remove the coil-on-plugs (RH side shown)
Figure 5 – Fuel Injector Electrical Connection
- Disconnect the Fuel Injector Electrical Connectors (Figure 3 and Figure 5)
- Remove the evaporative emissions (EVAP) line from the intake manifold
- Disconnect the LH variable camshaft timing (VCT) sensor (Figure 6)
Figure 6 - Remove the VCT Solenoid electrical connection
- Remove wiring harness retaining pins (2) from the covers (Figure 7)
- Remove the wiring harness retainers (2) from the studs (Figure 8)
Figure 7 - Retaining Clips, Pin Type
Figure 8 - Retaining Clip, Stud Style
- Remove the valve covers.
- It helped to loosen the oil dipstick tube, but it’s not necessary.
- Be careful to lift straight off until you clear the VCT solenoid.
- The bots (8mm socket) are captive in the grommets so you will not need to remove them from the valve covers.
- We used a few different length extensions and a u-joint to get to all of the bolts.
- Clean the gasket sealing surface.
- The Ford Factory Service Manual (FSM) specifies:
- Motorcraft Metal Surface Prep (ZC-31)
- Motorcreft Silicone Gasket Remover (ZC-30)
- We used a plastic scraper and some parts cleaner to remover the old RTV sealant and clean the sealing surface.
- Be careful not to scratch or gouge the surface.
- Be careful not to get the RTV material in the cylinder head. We used a rag and were careful to prevent material from falling into the cylinder head.
- Apply a bead silicone gasket and sealant (Motorcraft TA-30) in the two locations (Figure 9 and Figure 10) where the front cover and cylinder head meet.
- We did a trial fitment check before putting the silicone down.
Figure 9 - Silicone Gasket and Sealant Location, Lower. (image from removal step before scraping old gasket clean)
Figure 10 - Silicone Gasket and Sealant Location, Upper
- Position the valve cover (shown in Figure 11) making sure that the wiring harness is clear and out of the way.
- Having an extra pair of hands helps here; after positioning the valve cover one person can lift while the other person applies the silicone. Otherwise apply the silicone and then carefully move the valve cover into position.
- Make sure you have the right extensions handy.
- Install the valve cover and tighten the bolts to 10 Nm (89 lb-in).
- With the wiring bundles pulled out of the way slide the valve cover into position.
- You will not be able to get a torque wrench on many of the bolts. Make sure you get a good feel for what 10Nm feels like one of the easily accessible bolts. (It’s not much).
- Tighten in the sequence show in Figure 12.
- There are only 9 and 8 bolts on the left and right, respectively.
- Use the same sequence specified by the FSM by skipping the missing bolts.
Figure 11 - Installing the valve cover
Figure 12 - Tightening Sequence
Figure 13 - The Final Result
Installation instructions provided by American Muscle customer Michael Iacchei 5.10.12