How to Install Ford Racing Laser Etched Valve Covers on Your 2005-2010 Mustang GT and GT500

Installation

Preliminary steps

• Disconnect the battery
• Remover the strut tower brace (if installed)

Driver’s Side (LH)

*NOTE* Many of the pictures show the right hand side because they came out better. The Parts are identical Right to Left

• Remove the factory air intake or Cold Air Intake (CAI) - C&L Racer Intake pictured
• Disconnect the MAF sensor. (Figure 2)
• Disconnect the passenger side PCV hose.
• Disconnect air intake from throttle body.
• Disconnect air filter box (or CAI heat shield).
• Remove air intake.

• Remove the driver’s side PCV hose
• Remove the coil plugs – twist and pull
• Remove the screws attaching the coil plugs to the valve cover using the 7mm socket (Figure 3, and Figure 4)
• We completely disconnected them, labeled them, and set them aside (in order )

• Disconnect the Fuel Injector Electrical Connectors (Figure 3 and Figure 5)
• Remove the evaporative emissions (EVAP) line from the intake manifold
• Disconnect the LH variable camshaft timing (VCT) sensor (Figure 6)

• Remove wiring harness retaining pins (2) from the covers (Figure 7)
• Remove the wiring harness retainers (2) from the studs (Figure 8)

• Remove the valve covers.
• It helped to loosen the oil dipstick tube, but it’s not necessary.
• Be careful to lift straight off until you clear the VCT solenoid.
• The bots (8mm socket) are captive in the grommets so you will not need to remove them from the valve covers.
• We used a few different length extensions and a u-joint to get to all of the bolts.
• Clean the gasket sealing surface.
• The Ford Factory Service Manual (FSM) specifies:
• Motorcraft Metal Surface Prep (ZC-31)
• Motorcreft Silicone Gasket Remover (ZC-30)
• We used a plastic scraper and some parts cleaner to remover the old RTV sealant and clean the sealing surface.
• Be careful not to scratch or gouge the surface.
• Be careful not to get the RTV material in the cylinder head. We used a rag and were careful to prevent material from falling into the cylinder head.
• Apply a bead silicone gasket and sealant (Motorcraft TA-30) in the two locations (Figure 9 and Figure 10) where the front cover and cylinder head meet.
• We did a trial fitment check before putting the silicone down.

• Position the valve cover (shown in Figure 11) making sure that the wiring harness is clear and out of the way.
• Having an extra pair of hands helps here; after positioning the valve cover one person can lift while the other person applies the silicone. Otherwise apply the silicone and then carefully move the valve cover into position.
• Make sure you have the right extensions handy.
• Install the valve cover and tighten the bolts to 10 Nm (89 lb-in).
• With the wiring bundles pulled out of the way slide the valve cover into position.
• You will not be able to get a torque wrench on many of the bolts. Make sure you get a good feel for what 10Nm feels like one of the easily accessible bolts. (It’s not much).
• Tighten in the sequence show in Figure 12.
• There are only 9 and 8 bolts on the left and right, respectively.
• Use the same sequence specified by the FSM by skipping the missing bolts.

• Attach the wiring harness retaining pins.
• Connect the VCT solenoid connector.
• Install the PCV tube.
• Install the EVAP tube.
• Install the coil-on-plugs.
• Apply Silicone Brake Caliper Grease and Dielectric Compound (Motorcraft XG-3-A).
• Install the coil-on-plug and tighten the bolt to 5 Nm.

RH Side Valve Cover Installation:

• The RH side is very similar to the LH Side.
• You will need to remove the oil fill tube and install it on the new cover. We did this before installing the cover, but I think you can do it after the install.

Finish the install:

• Reinstall Air intake box or CAI.
• Reinstall the strut tower brace (if applicable).
• Reconnect the battery.
• Take pictures and enjoy!

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