12. I apologize for the poor quality – I forgot to take a picture of the removal setup. This at least gives you a picture of how to setup the tool to press out the ball joint. The spindle is not in this photo but will be between the A-arm and the top of the ball joint.
13. The next step in the installation is by far the most difficult. The tapered end of the ball joint that the spindle sits on, will most likely be stuck to the spindle, even though there are no nuts holding it in place. If you have an air hammer and pickle fork, power it up and place the pickle fork on the ball joint shaft, under the spindle and try to jar it loose. Eventually, the hammering will free up the ball joint and it will drop out of the A-arm. The spindle will most likely fall to the ground as well so watch your feet!
14. Now you need to adjust the bump steer kit. Drive the front of the car up on your ramps at this time. Looking at the suspension from the front of the car, you want to see what angle the tie-rods are at, relative to the A-arms. You want them to be parallel with the A-arms to eliminate bump steer. Here are three figures which explain the possibilities. In these figures, the blue, thicker, bottom line represents the angle of the A-arm, which remains the same in each figure. It also remains fixed on your car as it sits on the ramps.
15. If you do not have an air hammer, you can try to knock it out using a sledgehammer. However, the problem I found with this method is that you really do not have enough room to get the swing you will need to knock it free.
16. So, what I did was to buy a disposable propane torch, and heat the ball joint shaft through the rubber boot, underneath the spindle. It worked really well and dropped right out after 20 seconds of heating. I actually recommend this method, as I felt like trying to just knock it out was a waste of time and effort.
17. To heat it up, you first need to press the ball joint back into the A-arm just enough so that it stays in place. Refer to step 13 below to see how to press a ball joint back in the A-arm. This will give you room to heat the ball joint under the spindle while also giving you something solid to hit once you are done heating. Once it is secured, fire up the torch and begin melting away a section of the rubber boot of the ball joint. Once it is melted continue to heat the metal shaft of the balljoint where the rubber boot used to conceal it. Do not put direct heat on the spindle itself or the A-arm, as these components will be reused and you do not want to risk weakening the metal. After about 20 seconds of heating, turn off your torch and use normal hammer to knock the ball joint free from the spindle and A-arm, by hitting it on top with a hammer. It should pop right through to the ground. The spindle will fall to the ground also, so watch your hands and feet! If it does not come free, heat it for another 20 seconds and then hit it again. Here is a picture of my stock ball joint removed. You can see where I melted the rubber boot and heated the shaft of the ball joint. (Note: If you do choose to use this method, be careful with the torch. It produces a blue flame that is hard to see and VERY hot.)