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Adjustable Front Upper Camber Arms with Ball Joints (06-23 RWD Charger)

Item CR16868
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$299.99 (pair)

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Ship to: Ashburn - 20149
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      Product Videos

      Merideth: If you've lowered your 2006 or newer Rear-Wheel Drive Charger and you want to perfect your alignment, these adjustable Front Upper Camber Arms with Ball Joints will be a great way to do it. Now, if you've added coilovers, air, or even lowering springs to your ride and you've noticed that you're lacking some of that smoothness that you once had and need a proper alignment for your Charger, this set will be a quality solution to do it with. Now, your alignment guide will also be thanking you with these, making it very easy to adjust for camber, allowing you to really dial in those degrees, which will offer a number of different benefits and feel like the ultimate cheat code of achieving a good ride with a lowered setup.This set of arms will allow you for three degrees positive to three degrees negative of camber adjustment, which will be pretty significant when it comes to alignment. So, if you have a more extreme setup, this will be able to dial that back in. This will also improve driving characteristics back to that similar stock feel for a very comfortable ride, offer more even treadwear for your tires so you don't have to constantly replace them like you would otherwise, and help put less stress on components to reduce any excessive wear caused by those unadjusted angles.These will have a heavy-duty alloy tube steel construction with welded gussets on the back of the arm as well as in the center here for some added rigidity. And you can also tell that these have a bright cherry red powder coat and it does even have like a little flake in there which is nice when it comes to the color. And of course, it's gonna protect the steel underneath and also give that pop in the wheel well that's gonna match with any other red suspension accessories. Now, the ball joints will also be heavy-duty as well with a billet aluminum construction and an anti-corrosion finish in addition to two large adjustable mounting locations. And the bushings on either ends will also be tough producing wear better than the factory ones that can get pretty brittle over time. And the best part of all is that this is gonna come with all of the hardware that you need for a straightforward install.These are gonna come in at roughly $350, being pretty average when it comes to price. But in my opinion, this set is gonna offer a lot out of that price point. Not only are you getting a strong and well-reinforced arm, but this is going to do wonders at replacing your factory one and give you the adjustability and additional degrees, positive and negative, compared to some other choices. That's gonna give you some flexibility with adjusting your setup, which will, again, be great for any setup, no matter how low your suspension is.Now, install will be a two out of three wrenches on the difficulty meter, taking you about two hours to get the job done with the right tools and the right setup. Now, at this point, we can head over to our shop and check out a detailed breakdown on how to get these onto your Charger. So, that is going to wrap it up for me. Let's go ahead and get into the install.Man: The tools you'll need for this project are an 18 and a 17-millimeter ratcheting wrench, a tape measure, a pair of needle-nose pliers, a 5-millimeter Allen wrench, 1/4-inch ratchet, a 10-millimeter socket, and a ball peen hammer. Hi, everyone. Today, we're installing a set of upper control arms on the front of our Charger. So, let's get started with the uninstall first. The first thing we're going to want to do is disconnect the negative cable on our battery. Now, the reason for this will become clear once we move up to the front of the vehicle. So, let's go ahead and get the battery disconnected. We'll go ahead and lift up the cover in our trunk, exposing our battery, and then we'll disconnect our negative cable here. We'll do this using a 10-millimeter socket to just loosen this up, and then remove the cable itself. Now we can go ahead and move to the front of the vehicle.All right. First thing we're going to want to do, once you get your vehicle properly supported, either on a set of jack stands or in our case, a lift, is we're going to want to disconnect the ball joint from the steering knuckle here. Now, we've also got two bolts on the other end of the control arm that we need to remove. And we'll show you how to do that after we get this separated from the ball joint. So, for this, we're going to need an 18-millimeter wrench or a socket to go ahead and loosen this nut up. Now we're not going to take it off quite yet, but we are going to loosen it up. So we'll use our 18-millimeter wrench. Now as you can see there's a gap between the nut and the steering knuckle itself. So, we need to separate the steering knuckle from the ball joint shaft. To do that, we're going to be using our hammer and we're going to hit right here on the steering knuckle to go ahead and separate that before we take our nut off. Now you can see the separation there. Now once we've got that done, we can go ahead and finish taking off our nut.And once you've got your steering knuckle separated from your upper control arm, you'll notice when it's hanging here there's a lot of tension on the brake hose. So we want to alleviate that tension and to do that we're going to remove this bracket here on the back of the steering knuckle itself. To do that, we're going to use our 10-millimeter socket and disconnect that bracket from the steering knuckle. Now, once you've got that bracket disconnected, we can go ahead and let our steering knuckle hang and you see there's no tension on the brake hose. Now the process for taking out the control arms is going to be the same for the passenger side and the driver side. There's two bolts that need to be removed and then you can pull the control arm out.However, getting to those bolts is going to be a little bit different for each side. Now, on the passenger side, if you have, and I highly recommend that you do this, get an 18-millimeter swivel ratcheting wrench, like so. It'll save you so much aggravation if you do this. If you don't have one, you can use a ratchet, but it will be a little bit more difficult to be able to get to the nuts on these bolts. If you're using a ratchet, you will need to remove the fuse box on the passenger side, and we also need to move an electrical connector behind the strut tower on the passenger side, as well as disconnect a couple of cables. So, let's go ahead and get that done first.All right, now as you can see right here, this is the front nut on the bolt that holds the front of the control arm on. Now the other one is pretty much impossible to be able to see with the camera because it's on the backside of the strut tower. So, this is the fuse box that is in our way if you're using a ratchet. So, to remove this fuse box, what you're gonna do is there are two clips, one on each side here, and there's another one here on the side. What we're going to do is pull those clips to the outside, lift up on the box, and then do the same thing on this one here. Pull the clip to the outside and go ahead and just lift your fuse box out of the way. Now that'll give you access to this nut to remove it so that we can go ahead and get the control arm out. Now, since we're using our ratcheting wrench, we don't have to remove this. So I'm just going to go ahead and put it back in place.Now we'll use our 18-millimeter wrench to be able to take this nut off on the front here. Now you shouldn't have to worry about holding the bolt still from the bottom side because it does have a bracket on it that will lock it into place on the strut tower. We can go ahead and just take our nut off. And now we'll go ahead and tackle the one on the backside of the strut tower. Now to get the nut off of the backside, what we're going to do is we're going to move this electrical connector here and then disconnect a couple of negative cables that are right behind the strut tower here. Now to move this electrical connector, what you're going to do is simply pull down on it, and you'll see that there's a couple of plastic Christmas tree pins here. That's what's holding it up to this brace at the bottom. Once we've got that disconnected, we go ahead and move that out of the way.Now we're going to use our 10-millimeter socket again to disconnect the nut and these cables that are right on the back side. That'll give us a better access to the nut that's down below. Now it is a little bit difficult to see because of the tight clearances in here, but you'll be able to see it once you actually take a look. So, we've got our nut removed here and we lift up on our two cables and they can just be pushed out of the way. Now that'll give us better access to the rear control arm nut. Now we can go ahead and remove the nut on the back of our strut tower here for our upper control arm. Now, it's obviously impossible for us to get our camera in here to be able to show you exactly where it's at, but you can tell by where it is on the front. The back is going to be roughly in the same location. It's going to be on the inside edge of the strut tower and it's down probably about an inch and a half or so from the top.So we're going to use our swivel ratcheting 18-millimeter wrench to go ahead and put that on the nut. All right. Once we've got that position, we'll go ahead and just loosen it up just like we did for the front one. And again, it's the same situation as the front one, There is a bracket on the bolt itself to hold it in place while you're loosening the nut. Now with both of our nuts removed, we can go ahead and remove the bolts and then remove our control arm. Now we can remove our two bolts holding our control arm into the strut tower. I do recommend removing the front one first just to give you a little bit more maneuverability for taking out the back one which is a little bit tighter. So we just slide our bolt out. And there's the bracket I was talking about earlier that holds it in place when you're loosening and tightening it as well.Now we go ahead and start to move our rear one. Once you've got that out, just pull your control arm straight out. Now, everything that we've just done on the passenger side, except for the removal of the fuse box and the disconnecting of the cables and the electrical connector in the back of the strut tower, is going to be exactly the same on the driver side. The only difference on the driver's side is that we do need to move our coolant recovery tank in order to be able to access the front nut. So, you want to make sure that when you're doing this, you're doing this on a cold vehicle because this coolant recovery tank will be hot if you've been running it for any length of time. So what we're going to do is we're just going to use our 10-millimeter socket to remove two bolts on the coolant recovery tank here and here and then just move it out of the way. Once we've got that out of the way then we'll have access to the two control arm dots.So, we'll remove these two nut bolts here. Now you also want to make sure that your coolant recovery cap is tight as well to prevent any leakage when you move the tank. So, once you've got the two bolts out, you can just lift up on the tank, like so. And then as you can see, there's the front bolt right here that you can go ahead and be able to have access to to go ahead and remove it. Now, like I said, once you've got your coolant recovery tank moved, then you'll have access to the bolt right here. So you can go ahead and take that nut off and then move to the back side. As you can see, our new control arms have to be assembled. We've got our ball joint here, we've got a backing plate here, and then we've got our control arm.Now you want to make sure that you've got the correct control arm for the side of the vehicle that you're working on. Now, since we're working on the passenger side, we're going to be using the control arm that has an R stamped on the top of the plate. The other one will have an L on it for the left side. Now, one other thing that you want to take care of is making sure that we're at least close to what came off of the vehicle as far as the length from the mounting points here on the arms to the center of the ball joint stud. Now we've already measured ours out and we're at about 10 and 5/8 inches. Now it doesn't have to be exactly correct and perfect at this point because you are going to have to have an alignment done on the vehicle once you get this installed. So, as long as you get it close, you should be alright.Now to assemble this, we're going to make sure that the two side blades on this mounting bracket here are on the bottom and the ball joint will go on the bottom between those two guides. And then the mounting plate is gonna go on top of that. Now we go ahead and start putting in our Allen head bolts from the bottom and make sure that you get the three holes from the ball joint lined up with the three holes on each side of the backing plate. Now, at this point, you don't want to tighten them all the way down because we are going to adjust them once we get everything installed. So just leave them a little bit loose so that we can slide it up and down to get it where we want it to go. Like I said, there are three on each side, so you've got a total of six screws that need to be put in.And now it is assembled. So now we can go ahead and slide this back and forth to get it where we want it to be. Like I said, we've already measured ours out. We know that it should be pretty close to 10 and 5/8 inches from the center of the stud here to the center mounting hole on the bottom. We'll go ahead and set ours up. And that's just about the distance that we need it to be at 10 and 5/8. So now we go ahead and tighten these down and lock it into place. I do recommend that you alternate sides to make sure that it tightens down evenly. And by the way, the size of the Allen wrench that you will need is a 5-millimeter Allen wrench. Now let's go ahead and get this installed on our vehicle.Now to install our new arm, we're basically going to reverse the process that we used to uninstall the original arm. So, we're going to slide this into position at the top, lining the holes in your arm with the holes in the shock tower. And then we'll go ahead, once we get our bolts in, we'll go ahead and attach our steering knuckle to the ball joint. So let's go ahead and get started. All right. So we'll go ahead and slide our arm into place and then using our two bolts that we took out earlier, go ahead and get those put into place. All right. Now as you can tell, we have to maneuver and keep wiggling it around to get this in because there are tight clearances. But after a little bit of persuasion, we were able to get it to go in.Now we can install our front bolt. Now we can go ahead and insert our ball joint stud into our steering knuckle. We put the supplied castle nut onto the stud and then we'll tighten it down with our 17-millimeter wrench. Now when you tighten this down you want to make sure that the slots on the castle nut line up with the hole in the stud on the ball joint so that we can put our cotter pin through and lock it into place. Yeah, once we've got that done, go ahead and slide our cotter pin through. And then using a pair of needle-nose pliers, go ahead and grab the end of the cotter pin and bend it around the stud to hold it into place. And we go ahead and put our nuts back onto our bolts. And just like before, make sure you get the one in the back. A little tough to show with the camera. And then we'll tighten them down using our 18-millimeter wrench.Now we can go ahead and reconnect our negative cables to the stud on the back of the strut tower, reinstall the original nut, tighten it down with our 10-millimeter socket. Reattach the electrical connector to the brace. Now that we've got the passenger side done, you can go ahead and repeat that same process for installing the control arm on the driver's side. And then when you're finished tightening all that up, make sure that you replace your coolant recovery tank as well. And as always, make sure you tighten everything down to factory-recommended torque specifications and then immediately take it in to get an alignment done.Now that we've got our ball joint connected to our steering knuckle again, we can go ahead and connect our brake line bracket and get that secured with the original hard whip. Now, obviously, it's a little difficult to get the camera in there, but you know where it's at. Once you've got it in, go ahead and tighten it down using our 10-millimeter socket. And then once you get everything tightened up, go ahead and reconnect your battery cable and you're good to go.And that wraps up our review and install of the Adjustable Front Upper Camber Arms with Ball Joints for your '06 to '23 Rear-Wheel Drive Charger. Thanks for watching. And remember, for all things Charger, keep it right here at americanmuscle.com

      Product Information

      Features, Description, Reviews, Q&A, Specs & Installation

      Features & Specs

      • Adjustable Style Camber Arms
      • Front Pair
      • Direct OEM Replacement
      • Allow Adjustment +/- 3 Degrees
      • Made from Heavy-Duty Steel Alloy
      • Features Spherical Bearing with Anti-Corrosion Finish
      • Professional Installation Recommended
      • Fits 2006-2023 RWD Chargers

      Description

      Adjustable Style Camber Arms. Improve the driving experience in your Charger with this Adjustable Front Upper Camber Arms with Ball Joints. Designed to boost control and handling of your vehicle, these Steel Alloy Camber Arms allow for Camber adjustment of -/+ 3 degrees. It also comes with corrosion resistant ball-joints for a longer service life.

      Installation. For the safety of your hardware during removal and replacement, professional installation is recommended.

      Application. The Adjustable Front Upper Camber Arms with Ball Joints fits 2006-2023 RWD Chargers.

      Fitment:

      Details

      CA Residents: WARNING: Cancer and Reproductive Harm - www.P65Warnings.ca.gov

      Installation & What's in the Box

      Installation Info

      What's in the Box

      • (2) Camber Arm
      4.6

      Customer Reviews (15)

        Questions & Answers

        10 More Questions

        Will It Fit My Charger

        • Base - 06, 07
        • Daytona - 17, 18
        • Daytona 392 - 17, 18
        • Daytona R/T - 06
        • GT - 19, 20, 21, 22, 23
        • Pursuit - 12, 13, 14, 15, 16, 17, 18, 19, 20, 22, 23
        • R/T - 06, 07, 08, 09, 10, 11, 12, 13, 14, 15, 16, 17, 18, 19, 20, 21, 22, 23
        • R/T 392 - 17, 18
        • R/T Road & Track - 15, 16
        • R/T Scat Pack - 15, 16, 17, 18
        • Scat Pack - 19, 20, 21, 22, 23
        • Scat Pack 392 Widebody - 20
        • Scat Pack Widebody - 22
        • SE - 06, 07, 08, 09, 10, 11, 12, 13, 14, 15, 16, 17
        • SRT 392 - 15, 16, 17, 18
        • SRT Hellcat - 15, 16, 17, 18, 19, 20
        • SRT Hellcat Redeye Widebody - 21, 22, 23
        • SRT Hellcat Widebody - 20, 21, 22, 23
        • SRT8 - 06, 07, 08, 09, 10, 12, 13, 14
        • SXT - 06, 07, 08, 09, 10, 12, 13, 14, 15, 16, 17, 18, 19, 20, 21, 22, 23
        • SXT Plus - 12, 18
        • SXT Plus Leather - 18