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SR Performance Lowering Springs (06-23 RWD Charger, Excluding SRT)

Item CR4746
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$184.99 (set of 4)

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Ship to: Ashburn - 20149
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      Video Review & Installation

      Justin: The SR Performance Lowering Springs that we have here today are hands down one of the most popular options available for all 2006 and newer Charger owners looking to get rid of that ugly wheel gap. Now, in addition to being very budget friendly at around 230 bucks, the springs will lower a car a total of two inches all around, giving you that nice even drops that still maintains just the slightest bit of that nose-down factory rate.Spring installs are pretty straightforward, but they will require the use of some specialty tools like a spring compressor. So, therefore, the site is gonna knock this one up to a soft three to three wrenches on the difficulty meter, and about four hours or so to complete from start to finish. But hang with me for a bit, guys. We'll walk you through that job later in the video.What do you say we talk about some of the details here with the SR Performance Lowering Springs? First and foremost, that drop. Now, roughly two inches all around. Which if you've been shopping around a little bit for springs for your Charger, you'll probably notice this is a drop that's similar to a lot of other manufacturers out there. And there's a good reason for that. It's low enough to make a pretty dramatic impact or different in styling, totally going to eliminate that wheel gap but it's not gonna cause any rubbing issues, and the car isn't gonna be crazy low or scraping on every speed bump or steep driveway everywhere you go.Now, this is maybe one of the best times to remind you guys to check out the numerous customer-submitted images on the product page if you haven't done so already, as it's a great way to get a feel of how the car will sit after the SR Performance Springs have been installed.Now, in addition to that drop, the SR Performance Lowering Springs are also going to feature what is called a progressive spring rate. And that basically means they're gonna ride on a softer initial spring rate for most of the time for a little bit more comfort, and then they progressively firm up the harder the spring is compressed when doing some aggressive driving to help reduce body roll.Now, this is a very popular design with a lot of aftermarket springs out there because it's gonna deliver the best of both worlds. Again, that comfortable kind of ride quality due to the softer spring when just cruising around, and then maybe a little less body roll once you start rolling on to those firmer spring rates, and the spring starts to firm up on you a little bit.Now, if you are really serious, I would say, about drag racing or road racing your car, then a linear spring, which you can also find here on the site might be a slightly better choice because that one set spring rate of a linear spring is ultimately gonna deliver a little bit more consistent performance, so you always know what you're gonna get. But I would say for 90% of owners out there who basically cruise their car, maybe do some aggressive driving once in a blue moon, a progressive spring rate is certainly a solid choice.Now, I do get questions a lot about installing an aftermarket lowering spring like the SR here on a set of factory shocks or struts. And what I will say is, listen, guys, if money is a little bit tight and your factory stuff really isn't terribly high mileage or the car really isn't beat, then, yes, you can absolutely get away with doing so, in fact, a lot of owners do. However, upgrading to a different damper that is slightly better designed to handle the firmer spring rates and lower ride height will only result in a better ride over time along with a better performing car as far as handling is concerned. So, just something to keep in mind there when doing your suspension.And now, we wanna show you just what it takes to get the SR Performance Lowering Springs on your rear-wheel drive charger at home. And to do so, check out our detailed walkthrough and tool breakdown now.Man: Tools used for this installation, 3/8ths electric impact gum, pry bar, clip removal tool, hammer, flat blade, screwdriver, exhaust grommet removal tool, half-inch drive impact, quarter-inch ratchet, half-inch drive extension, 8, 10, 13, 15-millimeter, 3/8th sockets, 3/8th extension, 6-inch 3/8th extension, 21, 18, and 18 flex sockets, 13/16ths wrench, 18-millimeter wrench, 18-millimeter ratcheting wrench, and P'B Blaster.Hey, guys. I'm gonna walk you through the installation of installing our lowering springs on our 2015 Charger. This is not a bad installation. Let's get started. First thing we're gonna do is remove our wheel speed sensor line here, this wire, just going to undo it, that way, when we lay the spindle down, it's not pulling on everything. It's gonna pull on the brake hose a little bit but it won't hurt anything. So I'm just gonna remove this, let this go.Next, what we're gonna do is I'm gonna break this nut loose with my 18-millimeter on my electric impact on, and then I'll break the ball joint loose. I'm just gonna put the nut back on, so that when I do break it loose, it doesn't fly apart, started a couple threads. I'm gonna take my hammer, smack it right here. You gotta hit it pretty hard. So don't be afraid. Just like that.So next, what we're gonna do is we're gonna take our sway bar link here out. We're gonna take this nut off here. Now, I'm gonna use my impact gun and a 21-millimeter to get it free. And sometimes what happens with these is they spin. That's why they make a 10-millimeter on the end here. So what I'm gonna do is I'm gonna take my wrench, put it on here with my 10-millimeter on my electric gun. I'm gonna slide that over top of that.I'm gonna run it out just like that. Now, if you don't have an impact gun, you can always use ratcheting wrenches with a 10-millimeter on the end, and do just what I did there. Now, we're gonna remove our 18-millimeter on the bottom.Now, we're gonna take our clip removal tool or screwdriver, whatever you have, we're gonna pop off this cap, lay it out of the way. You have three 13 millimeters right here. I'm gonna take my gun, and I'm gonna remove two of them. I'm gonna leave one attached. We're gonna end up putting the car back up in the air now, and then I'll be able to remove my strut. I'll end up just coming up with my hand, loosen this up, once I get it ready to fall out, that way it doesn't drop down.So now, we're gonna remove our strut assembly. What I'm gonna do is I'm just gonna grab ahold of this where the ball joint is, remove the nut. That way we can let the control arm go up, and the spindle hang. Now, you don't want the spindle to hang too much but the brake cable will or the brake line will hold it, the brake hose.So you're just gonna wanna leave it there like that. The strut is loose. You're gonna notice that the tag is this way. I always try to look at things and make sure I see, so I know when I put it back together, it goes back together right. And while this hangs here, what I'm gonna do, hold on to the strut. And I'm short, so I gotta use a stool and get up here and loosen up that last 13-millimeter nut.And once I get it out, I'm gonna lay it on the ground. I'm gonna put my control arm back in. Just start a couple of threads, that way the spindle is not laying down and you're not stretching the brake hose. Now, we got our strut out, we're gonna take it over to our strut compressor and take the spring off.So now that we got our strut over here, I got it on our strut compressor. If you don't have a strut compressor at home, and you just have the clamps that bolt on to it and pull it down, you can put that on both sides, pull it down. Just be careful. Anytime you work with coil springs, it's dangerous. They're under a lot of pressure. So, what I'm gonna do is take some pressure off this spring by turning this down. You'll see eventually it'll come off of the bottom mount.And now I have it, so it's loose. Now, I did start with an impact gun to start breaking our 18-millimeter loose up top. It's a nylon knot. So it only went so far then it started spinning. Once it spins, you gotta stop. So what I'm gonna use is I'm gonna use a ratcheting wrench and then I think it's an 8-millimeter on a quarter-inch drive. And I'm gonna go down on top of this and I'm gonna take this off the rest of the way. If you don't have this you can use a wrench. Still use a ratchet on top. This is made so that you can get a socket on there. And then I'm just gonna turn it out the rest of the way and get it loose.And I'm gonna get it till I feel it's pretty loose. Now, I'm gonna just lift up on strut, remove the nut, and drop the strut out from underneath it. And now, we'll take our coil spring out of here, put a new coil spring and start reassembling. So now, that we have our old coil spring out, we're going to remove our top part.And if you see in here, there is a stop right here. This is where the new coil spring and your old coil spring rests in place, kind of just like that. You're gonna wanna turn it till it hits that stop. Now, we will take our coil spring and put it back in our strut compressor. Now, we're gonna reinstall our strut, back up through.Once we get it back up in place, I'm gonna start our nut. And the same in the bottom, there is a cut out for where the bottom coil spring goes. So now, I'm gonna take my wrenches that I took it apart with, I'm gonna run this down and tighten it up. And when I get it close then I'll guide it into that slot.So now that I have the nut tight, I'm gonna adjust where the coil spring is gonna sit with this rubber grommet or this rubber slot back there, so it sits right in place. It's kind of like a stop for it. I'm gonna give it a turn so it falls right in place, start releasing the coil spring, make sure we got it tight, which it is.And now, we can start reinstalling our strut assembly. Now, that we got our strut reassembled, I'm going to install it, pull down on this again, I'm gonna remove this nut off the ball joint, let the spindle hang. Just want to let it drop down and hang just like that for a couple of seconds.I'm gonna take our strut with our new spring, line up our holes, just get one started. Now, at this point, I'm gonna push down and get it in place. Now, if you didn't realize when we're over there, you're gonna probably have to twist the bottom of the strut to get it straight to line up. So, next thing we're going to do is just twist the bottom of the strut to line it up. Sometimes it'll go pretty easy. And if it don't, you're gonna have to get a pry bar and twist it.So now, the bottom part of our strut assembly, I'm gonna put this pry bar in. If you don't have a pry bar, you can use a screwdriver. And I'm just gonna twist it and give it a little bit. That way, it'll fall in place when I lift up on this.So I'm gonna put this in place. I'm pulling down on the control arm just to get it up where I want it so I can line the bolt up and put the bolt in it. Once you get that in place, we'll use our impact gun and tighten that up.Next, we'll install our sway bar link up top. So now, we'll install our sway bar link into place, start our nut. And, again it spins so you're gonna wanna put a wrench on it. I'm gonna use my 10-millimeter and just tighten it up.And you're gonna wanna torque everything to manufacturer's specs when we're done. You're gonna wanna torque all these bolts, all the top bolts. So don't forget to do that. Next, we'll go up and tighten our ball joint up, and then we'll install our three bolts up top onto our strut. So now, we're gonna tighten our ball joint back up.And, again, you're gonna wanna torque it to manufacturer's specs. And then we're gonna reinstall our ABS wire on the side here that we took off at the beginning and it just connects to the brake line. Now we have that on. Now, we'll go up to the top and reinstall our 13-millimeter. Now, we're going to install our 13-millimeter nuts back on top and tighten these up,and then reinstall our plastic cap.Now, you're gonna wanna repeat this same removal and installation on the passenger side. So now, that we got our front coil springs installed, now we're gonna go on to our back. What we're gonna do is we're going to lower the exhaust pipe down. We're gonna remove the grommet up here that's holding on, and then there's two 13-millimeter bolts right here that we're gonna drop down.That's gonna drop the exhaust down enough for us to get to this nut here for a lower control arm. And then we'll remove our shock nut and we're gonna use a pole jack to hold this up. Now, we're gonna take our exhaust grommet removal tool. We're gonna go up in here and we're going to remove this grommet and get that off the pipe.Now, we're gonna go back and remove the two 13-millimeters on the back that holds this exhaust up. Now I'm going to remove this 13-millimeter that holds this hanger up, and then I'm gonna remove the back one now. Now, I'm gonna remove the 13-millimeter back here.It's gonna allow our exhaust to hang down enough that we can get to that bolt for the control arm. So now, what we're gonna do is I'm gonna use a pole jack and get underneath here in a pocket in this lower control arm. I'm gonna put one corner of this pole jack in. I'm gonna start taking it up to put some pressure on it. If you don't have a lift, and you're doing this on the ground, you're gonna want to use a jack, make sure you put your jack in this pocket and make sure it's in it secure, because what happens is sometimes when you lift these up, the jack slides out from underneath you, the control arm comes down. It can get dangerous because you're working on control arms.Me, since we have a lift, I'm going to jack this up with the control arm and start seeing pressure getting put on it, and I can see it's starting to compress the coil spring. Once I get it to that point, I know I have pressure on it, I'm gonna let it go. Now, we're gonna remove our two bolts. So now, we have tension on our lower control arm. We're gonna remove our shock bolt right here. I'm gonna take our 18-millimeter wrench. I'm gonna take my 15 on my electric impact gun. I'm gonna remove the nut. You should be able to spin it out.Now, we have that removed. Now, we're going to removing our control arm bolt. So now, I'm gonna take my 18-millimeter, my 15-millimeter on my electric impact gun and I'm gonna loosen the lower control arm bolt up. Now, once you get this loose, you can see if it'll spin out.You're gonna see like the control arm jumped down there because the bolt's coming out the other side. That's okay, as long as you got your jack under it and supported good. If you have a floor jack underneath it, just make sure you have it like that. I'm gonna spin it the rest of the way out.Now, I'm gonna get a pry bar and pry it the rest of the way out. So I pried it out as far as I can with the pry bar. Now, I'm gonna get in here with the gun, put my fingers behind it, and see if I can run it out the rest of the way.Now, that that's out, we're gonna start lowering our control arm down. That'll let us get our coil spring out and release all the tension on it. Now, we're gonna start releasing our pressure off our coil spring. Just wanna take your time, go slow. You got your jack underneath it. You just wanna make sure you let it down slow. That spring is under a lot of pressure. But once you start getting it down, you'll start feeling it that the jack stand, or the jack, or the pole jack will just go pretty nice and easy.Now, that I have it out of the top, I'm gonna push it out at the bottom. Now, we have this removed, now we're gonna replace it with our new one. Now, that we have our old coil spring out, we're gonna replace it with our new coil spring. We're gonna reach in here, pull out the rubbers that go on to the coil spring. This one's gonna have a slot in the bottom of it. That slot is gonna fit into this coil spring so that it sits inside it. I'm gonna push it up in just like that. It's at the rubber stop, and I'm gonna reach up, pull the top one out. Same thing with that.It has a groove in it where it's kind of like a stop. So I'm gonna line that up with the coil spring like that. Now that we have those on, I'm gonna take the coil spring, set it down in, and get it up into place. Once it's up into place, I'm gonna use my pole jack, and start getting it so it sits down inside, and gets up into the top.And then I'll line up, so that it goes right back up where it was. And you're gonna feel the tension. When you start putting it up in there, it's gonna start pushing up. You just wanna try to keep it lined up. Make sure you're in that pocket so it doesn't pop out.Once I get it close to there, I'm gonna grab my pry bar and then get this bolt started in the back. So now, I'm gonna take my pry bar and just tweak the control arm a little bit to get the bolts started. You wanna look on the other side and see how close you are. Once I get it to that point, I'm gonna try running it in with my gun.It's still off a little bit. Once I get it to that point, now I can let my pole jack down, and get that out from under here. And then I'll put the nut on that bolt and then we'll do our shock bolt. Now, I'm gonna reinstall my nut, use my 18-millimeter wrench, my 15-millimeter socket, tighten that up.Now, we'll install our shock bolt. Now, I'm going to take my shock, line it up, and take a flathead or a Phillips screwdriver and just get the bolt lined up so it starts. Once I get it started, and tap it with a hammer, put the nut on the other side, use my 15-millimeter again and 18-millimeter wrench, tighten that up. Now, you're gonna wanna torque these things to manufacturer's specs.Next, we're going to reassemble our exhaust system. I'm gonna reinstall our two 13 millimeters that we took off earlier in the exhaust hangers. I'm just gonna get them started. I'm gonna finish tighten the back one. And now, we'll install our rubber grommet, our exhaust grommet up there. Now, we're gonna put our rubber grommet on here.One of the hardest parts of the installation, putting the grommets back on. All right, now that we have that on, our installation is complete. You're gonna wanna repeat this removal and installation on the other side, and you'll have both coil springs in.That wraps up this review and install of our SR Performance Lowering Springs for '06 to '21 Rear Wheel Drive Chargers, excluding SRTs. Thanks for watching, And for all things Charger, keep it right here at

      Product Information

      Features, Description, Reviews, Q&A, Specs & Installation


      • Lowering Springs
      • Aggressive Lowered Muscle Car Stance
      • Lowers Center of Gravity for Improved Handling
      • Progressive Spring Rate
      • Blue Powder Coated Finish
      • Estimated Drop: Front - 2.0-inch, Rear - 2.1-inch
      • Clears Stock and Aftermarket Wheels & Tires
      • Not Compatible Hellcat or Demon Models
      • Fits 2006-2023 RWD Charger Models, Excludes SRT


      Performance Handling. SR Performance's Lowering Springs are an excellent way to improve the handling performance of your Charger. These Springs will lower your Charger's center of gravity, which will reduce squat during acceleration, body roll in the corners, and excessive nose-dive under hard braking. SR Performance Springs are perfectly suited for daily driving, street, and occasional track applications.

      Aggressive Muscle Car Stance. Not only does a set of SR Performance Springs improve the handling performance of your Charger, but they also improve its overall appearance by lowering the ride height approximately 2.0-inches front and 2.1-inches rear eliminating that huge tire to fender gap, for a more aggressive street stance.

      Progressive Design. Progressive springs (also known as variable rate springs) are designed to be more compliant when riding over rough and uneven surfaces like public roads. Progressive springs are engineered with a low starting spring rate that increases as the spring compresses. Variable rate compression allows for a smoother ride, while still providing good handling characteristics when pushed hard. This makes progressive rate springs a popular choice for daily street driven Chargers.

      Clears Stock and Aftermarket Wheels & Tires. These lowering springs were engineered to be compatible with your factory size wheels and tires, as well as AmericanMuscle's pre-configured wheel and tire combo kits (specific to your generation), to assure proper clearance with no rubbing issues.

      Professional Installation Recommended. Seeing that a spring compressor is required for installation of these Coil Springs, AmericanMuscle recommends professional installation. With the proper tools, installation can be completed in about three hours. Please note that an alignment is highly recommended after installation.

      Application. This set of four SR Performance Lowering Springs are specifically designed for use on 2006-2023 RWD Chargers equipped with independent rear suspension (IRS). Does not fit SRT models.

      SR Performance



      SR Performance CH3115

      CA Residents: WARNING: Cancer and Reproductive Harm -

      Installation & What's in the Box

      Installation Info

      What's in the Box

      • (4) Lowering Springs

      Tech Specs

      Springs Specifications
      Spring Rate:Front: - lb/in.
      Rear: - lb/in.
      Year:2008-2019, excludes SRTModel:Coupe
      Progressive or Standard:Progressive Estimated Drop:

      2.0" Front / 2.1" Rear


      Customer Reviews (500+)

        Questions & Answers

        10 More Questions

        Will It Fit My Charger

        • Base - 06, 07
        • Daytona - 17, 18
        • Daytona 392 - 17, 18
        • Daytona R/T - 06
        • GT - 19, 20, 21, 22, 23
        • Pursuit - 12, 13, 14, 15, 16, 17, 18, 19, 20, 22, 23
        • R/T - 06, 07, 08, 09, 10, 11, 12, 13, 14, 15, 16, 17, 18, 19, 20, 21, 22, 23
        • R/T 392 - 17, 18
        • R/T Road & Track - 15, 16
        • R/T Scat Pack - 15, 16, 17, 18
        • Scat Pack - 19, 20, 21, 22, 23
        • Scat Pack 392 Widebody - 20
        • Scat Pack Widebody - 22
        • SE - 06, 07, 08, 09, 10, 11, 12, 13, 14, 15, 16, 17
        • SRT 392 - 15, 16, 17, 18
        • SRT Hellcat - 15, 16, 17, 18, 19, 20
        • SRT Hellcat Redeye Widebody - 21, 22, 23
        • SRT Hellcat Widebody - 20, 21, 22, 23
        • SRT8 - 06, 07, 08, 09, 10, 12, 13, 14
        • SXT - 06, 07, 08, 09, 10, 12, 13, 14, 15, 16, 17, 18, 19, 20, 21, 22, 23
        • SXT Plus - 12, 18
        • SXT Plus Leather - 18