(approx) 1 Hour
Light to Moderate mechanical skill required.
$825.00 (pair)FREE Shipping
Saved - View your saved items
We're sorry. We couldn't save this product at this time.
Hey, guys. Adam here with americanmuscle.com. Today, we're taking a closer look at and installing the Morimoto XB LED Headlights, available for the 2015 to 2017 Mustang, whether it's a GT, EcoBoost or a V6, as well as the 2018 and newer GT 350. Now, if you wanna pick this up, you definitely wanna be in the mood for something a little different at the front end. Your factory headlights, of course, do look pretty good on the new S550s. The new redesign looks pretty impressive, very modernized, at least in my opinion, and those tri-bar running lights we have in the new S550 are pretty iconic. If you wanna differentiate your front end from all of the other S550s on the road, I can't think of a better headlight to go with. These do have similar, if not reminiscent, styling of the Charger front end headlights, which is definitely worth noting but, in my opinion, they look pretty good on the Mustang. It has this running light that wraps around the edge with the exception of this front end corner here, which does have a bright white LED.Now, that's actually coming in at about 5500 K which is, again, almost a completely pure white light. The projector styling on the inside is also gonna have your high and low beams, again, really bright LED at about 2600 lumens. So, really bright color output as well. It's got a black interior housing and a clear exterior lens and the kit comes in right around 750 bucks. It's an extremely affordable headlight mod at the front end. Keep in mind, guys, if you were to pick up new Ford OEM front headlights, they'd be over $1,000 probably each. So, that can get really expensive for OEM quality and OEM exact replicas. These fit like OEM, they have OEM quality, but a really cool redesigned headlight. You are really getting rid of a lot of the chrome trim on the inside, which I think is cool. So, you get a little bit more of a stealthy appearance with this headlight swap. And, for the price, I think it's well worth it for the huge, huge change. Again, it might not be for everybody. If you guys are really tried and true Ford guys and you don't wanna switch out that tri-bar running light design, the iconic Ford headlights, then of course, there are other options out there. There's even smoked options out there. But if you really wanna stray away, here's what you want.The install, I'm gonna give two out of three wrenches on our difficulty meter simply because it does require you to remove your front bumper. Now, listen, it's not the end of the world. A lot of guys might get scared away, but I'm gonna take you through every step of the process. You wanna have access to a floor jack and jack stands to get underneath of the vehicle because, in order to get the front bumper off, the underneath splash shield or body shield has to come off . And, really, that's just a bunch of 7-millimeter and 8-millimeter bolts as well as some push pins. It's not the end of the world. From there, we'll go under the hood. Take some of those bumper bolts out of the top there under our shroud and work on our headlight. It's not the end of the world. Plug and play here is a big keyword. These headlights are completely plug and play. There's no splicing, no wiring, which definitely makes the install a lot easier. The whole install here will take you about an hour, maybe an hour and a half from start to finish in the driveway at home, with very simple hand tools. What do you say we get started?Tools used in this install include an impact gun, extension, 1/4-inch ratchet, 5.5 and 7-millimeter short sockets, 7, 8, and 10-millimeter deep sockets for a 1/4-inch ratchet, 10 and 13-millimeter deep sockets for the 3/8 impact, flathead screwdriver, needle-nose pliers, and a panel removal tool.Step number one for the uninstall, let's pop our hood. We're gonna disconnect the negative cable on our battery. Whenever you're working with any kind of wiring, you wanna make sure that's the first step there simply because you don't want any problems, you don't want any electrical issues. So, disconnect the battery. You'll be safe. It's better to be safe than sorry. So, we're gonna pop our hood and throw our hood prop up. Pop off your battery cover. And if you need to remove any of these retainer pins, you just twist them off. Pop them straight out. Get that battery cover out of the way. Grab a 10-millimeter socket and you're gonna loosen up the negative cable. You don't have to pop that nut straight off. Just loosen it up and there's this plastic pull tab here. Basically, you're just gonna pull straight up on it. Now, you wanna secure this back somewhere where it's not touching any metal. You definitely don't want it coming in contact with the positive cable. It's just I like to bend it straight back like that and then throw the battery cover back on.Now, since our front bumper does have to come off for the uninstall here, we do have to remove our belly pan or the splash shield underneath. If your car is not equipped with one, you can skip right over this step, but ours is here with our 2015 Eco, so grab a 7-millimeter socket. We're gonna remove the one, two, three, four, five, six, seven screws straight across the front. There's two more at the back end and then we'll use a panel tool or a panel and removal tool for the plastic rivets. Now, holding the belly pan to the front splitter here, you have two plastic push pin clips or plastic rivets on each side. So, grab a panel removal tool, which I find makes life a little easier and get these off. You can also use a flathead screwdriver but, again, I just think this makes life a little easier. As you can see, just remove the front portion or the top portion, and then the underneath layer. Do the same thing over here. Basically, just gonna pull the plunger out and then the back end. Repeat on the other side. Now, we got two more in the wheel wells, one on each side. So, grab that same panel tool and get these off. Now, it is a weird angle, so you might have to finesse that a little bit, pop it off and repeat the other side.All right. At this point, we can just pull the splash shield off. So, we're gonna start from the back here and it really just falls right out. At this point, while we're under the car, we are gonna disconnect the harnesses on our fog light. When we remove our bumper, you don't want these getting tugged, so it's a good time to remove them now. So, you're really just gonna pinch and disconnect all three harnesses on each fog light and your parking light. Same thing on the other side. Now, at this point, we're gonna go in our passenger's side wheel well to disconnect the bolt holding our fender to the front bumper. Now, this has to be disconnected at this little slit right here. So, we're gonna peel back our wheel well liner, which if you have plastic rivets holding it in place, you can pop those off. Ours does not. Grab your 7-millimeter socket and remove that bolt. Once you get it knocked loose, you can pretty much do it by hand. All right. Now, you can repeat for the other side.We're gonna use a panel removal tool here to remove the eight push pins or plastic rivets on our radiator shroud. So, we got the car back on the ground, pop the hood open again. Now, let's start popping these things off to get the shroud out of place. Now, if they come apart, you can just take the top portion and just stick it right back in. If you start to have trouble and they get stuck, you can use needle-nose pliers to get them out. Once you have all of them out of place, just grab the radiator shroud and pull them all off together. Now, underneath of that radiator shroud, there are six 8-millimeter screws going straight across the front. These are the last screws or bolts holding on your front bumper. Grab an 8-millimeter socket. Get them off. Now, there are two last bolts. They're 5 1/2 millimeters and they're tucked under the weatherstripping underneath your radiator shroud, right next to the bolts you just removed. So, grab a 5 1/2-millimeter socket and remove one on each side. They're real small, so be careful you don't lose them.All right. At this point, we can take our bumper off. And when you've taken your bumper off, you wanna be careful of where you set it down. You don't wanna set it face first on concrete, of course. You wanna protect your paint. So, just be mindful of that when you're taking it off. Also, be gentle with removing where the bolts were. They are hooked onto these plastic pins, so you wanna lift up first and then away. Now, there are three bolts holding on your factory headlight. There's a 10 up here, a 10 down low and a 13 on the side. So, grab your 10-millimeter socket. I like to use an extension just to get past this headlight here and you're gonna remove them. All right. Switch over to a 13-millimeter socket and get the one on the side. When you're pulling your headlight out of place, be careful of the wiring harness. Pinch and disconnect.So, we've got our factory headlight off of our 2015 Eco behind me. I wanted to stop down and take a quick comparison look side by side with our Morimoto XB LED. Now, these are completely different. Like I said in the beginning, guys, if you're really looking to change up the whole front end look, this is the way to go. These do have a DRL, daytime running light, built in which your factory headlights do as well, but in a very different styling. Now, the factory headlights do have that iconic tri-bar look. These completely get rid of that, have a black interior housing, and that LED runs right around the edges there with the exception of the front end. Now, it still has an amber turn signal on the side here, but it is a lot more jagged. Your factory look is a lot more smooth-edged whereas this one looks a little bit more modern in my opinion. With the rest of the housing here, expect PPS black interior housing, which is basically just a hardened plastic, exactly what you'd expect from an aftermarket or even factory headlight housing.The lens is a high-density polycarbonate, which means it's impact resistant. This is also gonna be pretty clear. So, it's clear just like your factory ones. You don't have to worry about light output being dimmed down due to a smoked lens. The interior boasts a 2600-lumen intensity, which means they are a very bright LED. They also have a 5500 K color output, which is pretty much a pure white. The only thing higher than that that you'd really get in the aftermarket is a 6000 K, which is really the purest of white. So, this is gonna be a lot brighter and a lot wider than your factory interior technology and it's also, in my opinion, gonna look very different and a little bit more modernized.Now, I do say I'm a fan of the tri-bar look of the factory headlights. I think the S550 here is one of the best looking front end headlights in the Mustang generation. That's obviously all opinionated. I'd be hesitant to go away from the factory look, but I do say I'm a big fan of what we have going on here with the Morimoto lights, similar to the Raxioms on the site as well. Now, if we flip the headlights around, you're gonna see what is pretty much an identical setup in the background here. You have your adjustment screw for your headlight, so a Phillips head screwdriver will adjust the angle that the high and low beam LED is pointed at, but it's also gonna have your plug and play connector. Now, the backend of your factory light here has the bolt built in, so you just connect your factory harness straight into the housing. This, because it has that LED technology built in, we have a little bit extra wiring going. We have the connector off the housing and you're basically just gonna plug in the factory harness. It's the exact same thing. One is just connected to the housing, but your new one here is extended off with a wiring harness. So, really the identical plug and play setup. You can expect the same install from one to the other.So, what I wanna do, guys, is show you what this looks like on a car. I'm gonna give you a test with one installed and one being factory. So, we'll show you what that looks like and you're pretty much just gonna repeat the process for the other side. All right, kick things off with the install of our Morimoto's here. We're gonna plug in the harness to our factory harness. So, just pick that up. There's only one down there that fits. Snap those in place. You should hear a little click, it's very subtle. Now, you're gonna pop this into place with the factory hardware. Grab that factory 13-millimeter screw or the bolt and tighten it down to the side. All right. With that in place, take the other 10 millimeters and just thread them on by hand a couple of turns. And now, we can grab our sockets. We're gonna start with your 13 here, switch over to the 10 and finish the other two.At this point, you wanna test out your lights. Make sure everything works before continuing the install. Now, it's about time we reinstall our bumper. Now, when you take this, you wanna lay it on the top underneath of that radiator shroud first, lining up those little holes to where they mount. Same factory location, really just doing it in reverse order. All right. Once you lay that, what I like to do is reconnect the fender section. Just push those in. Now, at this point, we can reinstall the bolts straight across the top here. Now, I like to start with the 5 1/2-millimeter screws, one on each end. So, I'm just gonna thread that one on by hand. Grab the 5 1/2 socket and tighten that down. Same thing on the other side. All right. Now, we're moving onto the 8 millimeters right next to them.Next step here, just grab your radiator shroud. We're gonna drop that into place. Really only goes on one way, so just drop it in and replace those plastic pins at the top. Well, they might give you some trouble pushing all the way back down. If you need help, you can grab your panel tool and push them down. I like to put them all into place and then come back and tighten them. All right. Now, you wanna go back in the wheel well and replace the 7-millimeter screw that held the fender to the bumper. I'm gonna peel back the liner, take that screw and I know it's tough to see. You just wanna find that hole and thread it back in by hand. You can typically get it all the way down by hand and then grab a 7 short socket and just give it that quarter-turn it takes to tighten.Now, if you have those push pins, you're gonna replace those in the wheel well now. Now, before you can put your splash shield back in, you got to plug your fog lights in. So, head underneath and reconnect those harnesses. Remember, there's two for the fog light and one up there for the parking light. Now, repeat for the other side. All right. Putting the splash shield up is pretty simple. You wanna line up the front first, tuck it in under the chin splitter and then line everything else up. I'm gonna do the push pins first and then we'll tackle the screws and bolts. All right. Now, grab your 7-millimeter screws and socket, tighten them down. All right. Now, we have two more at the back end of the splash shield. All right. Put the car back down and you're good to go. All right. Now, the last thing you wanna do is reconnect the negative cable on your battery. We'll take the cover off, bring the cable back over, reconnect it. You wanna make sure it's seated all the way down. Grab a 10-millimeter socket and tighten down the nuts. Put the cover back on along with the retainer screws.Well, guys, that's gonna wrap up my review and install for the Morimoto XB Headlights for the '15 to '17 Mustang and the '18 and newer GT 350. If you wanna pick up your set to completely change the front end of your S550, you can get yours right here at americanmuscle.com.
Subscribe to our YouTube Channel
Features, Description, Reviews, Q&A, Specs & Installation
Classy and Effective Headlight Upgrade. The Morimoto XB LED Head Lights are the ideal aftermarket headlight upgrade that offers unparalleled performance, and classy good looks. These headlights feature LED daytime running lights (DRL) to give your Mustang’s front-end a style that’s both classy, yet functional. Indeed, they fully complement your vehicle’s iconic muscle-car looks. Performance-wise, these LED front head lights easily outperform the factory lights, providing you with more intense illumination, for safer nighttime driving.
Intense LED Lights. The Morimoto XB LED Head Lights utilize ultra-bright LED lights that are capable of producing 2,600 lumens of light, with a 5,500 K color temperature. The featured white LED DRL are bright enough to be seen in the daytime. To keep temperatures down, these headlights use an efficient die-cast aluminum heat sink.
Heavy-Duty Build Quality. The Morimoto XB LED Head Lights’ housing is made from heavy-duty PPS plastic. This material is both tough and lightweight. The lenses are crafted from shatter-resistant polycarbonate lens that’s UV-treated, maintaining the headlights’ clarity for many years driving. Finally, these headlights come with a classy black trim that highlights the style of the headlights.
Uncomplicated Install. Installing the Morimoto XB LED Head Lights is essentially a plug-and-play install, as the assembly uses factory-style connector harnesses. The headlights themselves mount into the front of your Mustang without any modifications or special tools, for a truly uncomplicated install procedure.
DOT-Approved With an IP67 Rating. The Morimoto XB LED Head Lights meet all DOT regulations regarding headlights. These headlights also come with a waterproof rating of IP67 giving you reliable all-weather performance.
Backed by a 5-Year Limited Warranty. The Morimoto XB LED Head Lights are backed by a 5-year limited warranty covering workmanship defects. Please visit the manufacturer’s website for more details.
Application. The Morimoto XB LED Head Lights fits all 2015 to 2017 Ford Mustang and 2018 to 2020 Mustang GT350 and GT500 models.
Fitment: 2015 2016 2017 2018 2019 2020 Details
CA Residents: WARNING: Cancer and Reproductive Harm - www.P65Warnings.ca.gov
(approx) 1 Hour
Light to Moderate mechanical skill required.
What's in the Box
10 More Questions