Review & Install Video
Hey, guys. Adam here with americanmuscle.com. Today, I'm bringing you a detailed overview and installation of the Ford Performance Lowering B-Springs, which are available for all '79 to '04 GT, V6, and Mach 1s, as well as the '93 to '98 Cobras of both the coupe and convertible. In this video, I'll be going over what you can expect, as far as the drop in ride height from the lowering spring from Ford Racing, as well as its performance and benefits to your suspension and handling. I'll top it off with the installation, which I'll let you know up front here, gets a two out of three wrenches on our difficulty meter. Not the hardest job in the world, but it does require a little know-how, a little patience, and maybe a helping hand if you have one on deck.
The Ford Performance Lowering B-Springs, which I have here today, will be for any '79 to '04 Mustang owner, who's looking to lower the center of gravity on their pony in order to get a more aggressive ride stance. While also improving greatly their suspension and handling performance with a progressive spring rate, like these. Obviously, when adding a set of lowering springs to your Mustang, you're lowering the center of gravity which, of course, will then, in turn, improve your suspension and handling performance, while also giving you an aggressive stance, depending on how low you go with the drop.
So the first thing I wanna talk about right off the bat is, of course, how low are you gonna go when adding the B-springs from Ford Performance to your Mustang. Now, with the Fox Body '79 to '93 Mustangs, you can expect a 7/8 of an inch drop in the front and a 0.5-inch drop in the rear. Hearing those numbers, not too big of a drop overall. But lowering that center of gravity, even the slightest, will improve the handling performance of your Mustang.
Now, as far as the SN95 and New Edge is concerned, all '94 to '04 Mustangs will drop 1-1/8-inch in the front, and of course, 3/4 of an inch in the rear. Again, not the biggest drops in the world, but a little bit bigger than the Fox Bodies. Either way, I want you to rest easy knowing that all of these drops for your Fox Body, SN95, or New Edge will clear, in fact, the stock wheels, as well as aftermarket wheel and tire kits you might have gotten from americanmuscle.com.
Now, in addition to the drop in right height, I wanna talk about the performance benefits you can expect. But I also wanna point out, Ford Performance offers a couple of different letter springs out there on the market, such as the B-springs we have here, but also C-springs and G-springs. Now, the differences in these springs might not be so obvious when you're checking it out yourself. So of course, I wanna point that out for you and explain the difference between the three, so we can help you make your decision a little easier.
Now, the easiest one to point out is going to be the G-spring from Ford Performance, because it has a different ride height than the C and B-springs, which will be the exact same. The G-springs will drop your car a 0.5-inch in all 4 corners, whereas the C-springs and the B-springs we have here will drop it exactly what I said just a little bit ago in this video. Now, of course, the only difference between the C-springs and the B-springs is going to be the spring rate.
If you're looking at these B-springs, you can expect a progressive spring rate. Now, progressive just basically refers to a normal spring rate, normal driving conditions, a pretty normal feel when you're driving it on the road, maybe a daily driver or commuting to work. And of course, it will get a little bit stiffer when taking those hard turns. It kind of adapts to those harder driving situations. That basically allows the spring to get a little bit more comfortable around those turns and adapt to that hard driving or cornering situation.
Now, on the other hand, there is the C-spring that Ford Performance offers, which is going to have a standard spring rate. Standard just means it's basically linear and doesn't adapt to any different driving situation. So it allows the driver to more accurately predict how the springs will react in each certain situation. After all, it just comes down to what exactly you're using your Mustang for. Both of these springs are good for street driving and track driving, just one a little better than the other. Again, it comes down to your personal preference. The ride height will be the exact same between the two, but the spring rate is going to be very, very different.
Now that we got that out of the way, I wanna talk about the pricing because it will differ, as well. Now, the B-springs we have here, with the progressive spring rate will come around the $200 mark. Now, if you're interested in a more linear standard spring rate, like the C-springs, that'll come in a little bit less at the $150 mark. If you'd like the G-springs to drop a 0.5-inch in all 4 corners, you're looking at about $220. Overall, just down to your personal preference, how much you wanna spend, what kind of spring rate you're looking for, and how low you want your Mustang to go.
Now, the good thing about almost every single spring, from the Fox Body all the way up to the New Edge and '79 to '04 Mustangs, the installation for almost any spring in any brand is almost always gonna be the exact same. You're gonna wanna have a little bit of know-how on deck, or a helping hand if you're not too sure of the process. As far as the process goes, it's not the hardest job in the world. But it does require a little bit of patience and a little bit of caution.
Now, as far as tools are concerned, if you are tackling it yourself, a ratchet and a simple socket set on deck, a jack and jack stands, or a lift if you have one, and a pry bar to help get those dusty springs off. If they're the factory options, they've been there a pretty long time, I'd imagine. Now, as far as timing goes, expect to have it done in about two hours, and it'll get a two out of three wrenches on our difficulty meter.
To kick things off, we'll start at the rear of the Mustang, of course. You wanna jack it up by the rear end, remove one of the wheels, and then I'm gonna say you're gonna have to jack up the pumpkin or the differential housing right in the middle to relieve the tension on the shock bolts. From there, with the pumpkin up in the air, you wanna remove the bottom shock bolts from that shock tower, and of course, just lower that pumpkin down ever so slightly, or lower the differential housing until the spring tension is relieved.
At that point, you can take the spring out using that pry bar, or just bring it out by hand if it's coming out pretty easily. At that point, swap it out with the B-springs, put everything back together in the reverse order, and you're good to go. Switching over to the front of the vehicle, you'll jack up the front end, of course, remove one of the wheels, support the vehicle under the lower control arm. You wanna jack that up to remove the tension, just like we did on the differential pumpkin on the back.
Once that's jacked up, remove the sway bar end link, the bottom strut tower bolts, and then, of course, just lower that control arm down until the spring is removed. Once the spring is removed, pop in the B-springs, repeat the process in the reverse order, and you're good to go. Overall, about two hours' worth of time in the driveway at home, and a two out of three wrenches on our difficulty meter.
Just to wrap things up, guys, if you're the owner of a 1979 all the way up to '04 Mustang, whether it's a coupe or convertible, you might be looking to lower the center of gravity on your Mustang to get a more aggressive stance and improve the handling performance. If you're looking for a progressive spring rate, you might wanna check out the Ford Performance B-Springs we have here, which are available at americanmuscle.com.