(approx) 2 Hours
Light to Moderate mechanical skill required.
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Hey guys, Adam here with americanmuscle.com. Today, we're taking a closer look at and installing the Raxiom Smoked Projector LED Headlights, available for the 2015 to '17 Mustang GT EcoBoost and V6, as well as the 2018 and newer GT350. Now, if you're looking to stray away from the traditional, you know, factory-style headlights for the front end, and you want to completely change the front end look of your S550, I can't think of a better way to do it. Now, these Raxiom Smoked LED Headlights do have a similar reminiscent styling of the charger front end with the headlights, so that's gotta be talked about right up front, guys. Some of you guys might not like it. Some of you guys really might be into it. It's really just about whether or not you like that design and you want it on your front end and you really want to stand out amongst the crowd.Now, we know every Mustang on the road, every S550 on the road, rather, has pretty much the exact same headlight, plus or minus some tint. If you want to go beyond that, get a smoked lens, black interior housing, a really unique, you know, running light around the edges of that headlight, as well as an extremely bright, extremely white headlight, this is a great option. This does come with some state-of-the-art modern technology built in, including high-intensity, 2,600-lumen rating, which basically translate to a very bright light output. Now, even though these lenses are smoked, that color and light output is going to mean that the smoke is not diminishing any lighting output. You still get a bright shine coming through. It's also got a 6,000 K color temperature. That means it's an absolute pure white light.Now, I know if you're browsing the category, you might see another option on the site from Morimoto that's almost identical in style to this one. Just know that the Raxiom has a brighter, whiter color temperature, and it's got the smoked, stealthy lens. So those are the two bonuses from looking at the Raxiom versus the other brand in the category, both of which have the same design. This one's a lot whiter, and the other one is a clear lens. Now, in my opinion, I'm a big fan of smoked, I think it looks really sharp on the front end, giving you that stealthy appearance. It blends in really well with the fog light bezel and the lower splitter here. So, I like the look of it, but that's personal preference.Price points are going to be pretty much the same, coming in right around 750 bucks, which I think's a pretty affordable price tag for such a huge appearance change at the front end. But it's not really appearance too, its functionality as well, with the lumens being a lot higher in their rating, you're getting a lot more safety out of it, too. The factory headlights were bright. These are just brighter, which means you're seeing a lot easier. In addition to that, it's got a PPS housing, which means it's going to have a pretty high-intensity, impact-resistant plastic, but it's also got polycarbonate lenses, but, again, being smoked, that's all very OEM quality. You're not sacrificing any of that quality for the aftermarket design here. It has a completely plug and play design, so you don't have to do any splicing, and no wiring. Huge upside there to the price tag. Normally, for guys that have a plug and play setup, or products that have a plug and play setup, you typically have to pay a higher price tag for that. But it seems that Raxiom has got that nailed in. We all know the Raxiom's got the plug and play design. So, big upside there.Now, install, two out of three wrenches on our difficulty meter. Know that the front bumper does have to come off, but don't worry. I'm going to take you through every step. It's really not that hard. The biggest concern here is making sure that you're laying it somewhere where it's not going to get damaged. You don't want to put it face down on the concrete. With the install, it'll take you about two, maybe two and a half hours. Maybe not even that long, depending on your experience. So, what do you say we get started?Tools used in this install include an impact gun, extension, 1/4-inch ratchet, 5 1/2 and 7-millimeter short sockets, 7, 8, and 10-millimeter deep sockets for a 1/4-inch ratchet, 10 and 13-millimeter deep sockets for the 3/8 impact, flathead screwdriver, needle-nose pliers, and a panel removal tool.Step number one for the uninstall, let's pop our hood. We're going to disconnect the negative cable on our battery. Whenever you're working with any kind of wiring, you want to make sure that's the first step there, simply because you don't want any problems. You don't want any electrical issues. So, disconnect the battery. You'll be safe. It's better to be safe than sorry. So, we're going to pop our hood and throw our hood prop up. Pop off your battery cover, and if you need to, remove any of these retainer pins. You just twist them off, pop them straight out. Get that battery cover out of the way. Grab a 10-millimeter socket, and you're gonna loosen up the negative cable. You don't have to pop that nut straight off, just loosen it up. And there's this plastic pull tab here. Basically just going to pull straight up on it. Now, you want to secure this back somewhere where it's not touching any metal. You definitely don't want it coming in contact with the positive cable. So just, I like to bend it straight back like that, and I'll throw the battery cover back on.Now, since our front bumper does have to come off for the uninstall here, we do have to remove our belly pan, or the splash shield underneath. If your car is not equipped with one, you can skip right over this step, but ours is here with our 2015 Eco. So, grab a 7-millimeter socket, we're going to remove the one, two, three, four, five, six, seven screws straight across the front. There's two more at the back end. And then we'll use a panel tool, or panel removal tool for the plastic rivets.Now, holding the belly pan to the front splitter here, you have two plastic push pin clips or plastic rivets on each side, so grab a panel removal tool, which I find makes life a little easier, and get these off. You can also use a flathead screwdriver, but again, I just think this makes life a little easier. As you can see, you just remove the front portion, or the top portion, and then the underneath layer. Do the same thing over here. Basically, just going to pull the plunger out and then the backend. Repeat on the other side.Now, we got two more in the wheel wells, one on each side, so grab that same panel tool and get these off. Now, it is a weird angle, so you might have to finesse that a little bit, pop it off, and repeat for the other side. All right, at this point, we can just pull the splash shield off. So, we're gonna start from the back here, and it really just falls right out. At this point, while we're under the car, we're going to disconnect the harnesses on our fog light. When we remove our bumper, you don't want these getting tugged, so it's a good time to remove them now. So, you're really just going to pinch and disconnect all three harnesses and your parking light. Same thing on the other side.Now, at this point, we're going to go in our passenger side wheel well to disconnect the bolt holding our fender to the front bumper. Now, this has to be disconnected at this little slit right here. So, we're going to peel back our wheel well liner, which if you have plastic rivets holding it in place, you can pop those off. Ours does not. Grab your 7-millimeter socket and remove that bolt. Once you get it knocked loose, you can pretty much do it by hand. All right, from there, this portion should start to disconnect. Now you can repeat for the other side. We're going to use a panel removal tool here to remove the eight push pins or plastic rivets on our radiator shroud. So, we've got the car back on the ground, pop the hood open again, and let's start popping these things off to get the shroud out of place. Now, if they come apart, you can just take the top portion and just stick it right back in. If you start to have trouble and they get stuck, you can use needle-nose pliers to get them out. All right. Once you have all of them out of place, just grab the radiator shroud and pull it all off together. Now, underneath of that radiator shroud, there are six 8-millimeter screws going straight across the front. These are the last screws or bolts holding on your front bumper. Grab an 8-millimeter socket and get them off.Now, there are two last bolts. They're 5 1/2 millimeters, and they're tucked under the weatherstripping underneath your radiator shroud, right next to the bolts you just removed. So, grab a 5-1/2-millimeter socket, and remove one on each side. All right, at this point, we can take our bumper off. And when you're taking your bumper off, you want to be careful of where you set it down. You don't want to set it face first on concrete. Of course, you want to protect your paint. So, just be mindful of that when you're taking it off. Also, be gentle with removing where the bolts were. They're hooked onto these plastic pins, so you want to lift up first and then away.Now, there are three bolts holding on your factory headlight. There's a 10 up here, a 10 down low, and a 13 on the side, so grab your 10-millimeter socket. I like to use an extension just to get past this headlight here, and you're going to remove them. All right, switch over to a 13-millimeter socket and get the one on the side. When you're pulling your headlight out of place, be careful of the wiring harness, pinch, and disconnect. So, we got one of the factory headlights off of our 2015 EcoBoost on the table here, next to our Raxiom Projector LED. Now, I want to take you through some of the similarities, but mainly the huge differences between the two, because trust me, these are completely different. I don't want to repeat myself. I know we already talked about some of the similar designs you might see in some of the other vehicles out there, but I wanted to break down the components of the exterior and interior of the housing here.Now, your factory pony light has pretty much an ABS plastic, or a similar PPS plastic exterior housing in black, black trim. Polycarbonate lens, that's clear. Your new headlight from Raxiom has that same PPS housing, so it's that hardened impact-resistant plastic. Polycarbonate lens, but the big difference here is this one is smoked. The smoked lens, however, is not going to impact the color output, the light output. You don't have to worry about it dimming down your lights. The lights are so powerful and so strong and have such a high, modernized, state-of-the-art technology built in that you don't have to worry about the output being dimmed down by that smoked. Now, inside, you can expect a 2,600 high-intensity lumen output, which is basically going to tell you that they're bright. They're a lot brighter than your factory headlights, and they're going to be a lot sleeker as far as that color intensity.They also boast a 6,000 K white color output, meaning they are an absolute, pure white light. Now, there are similar options out there, like the one from Morimoto. That one's got a 5,500 K color output, which means it's just slightly below a pure white light. So, if you're looking for that kind of exterior appearance, that 6,000 K is going to be the way to go, which you'd find here in the Raxiom only. Now, the other alternatives out there might not offer a smoked option as well. So, if you're anything like me, I love the way a smoked headlight looks, especially on the S550. That's something you're going to find with the Raxiom brand here. So, I know it's got a more premium price tag, but you are paying for a couple of extra bells and whistles you wouldn't find in some of the other options in the category. You're also getting a black interior housing.If you take a look at your factory headlight versus this one, you're seeing a lot of chrome trim on the inside here, especially around that projector-style bulb. If you look at this option, it's got a similar, almost camera lens-like detail, but it's completely blacked out. Big fan there. I really, really like the way that looks. You're still getting that DRL that runs around the corners there, as you saw. I know I talked about that earlier. That one's going to be on all throughout the day. That's going to give you that nice LED bright white accent light I really like. It also features your turn signal amber reflector on the other side here. Your factory one has that, but it's really smooth-edged. This one here is a lot more jagged. I think it looks a little bit more modernized. It's something you'd see with hard-edged corners. I personally like the way that it looks. You know, it's all personal preference though.If you turn around the headlights and look at the back end, they're pretty much identical. What you see here and up here are adjustment lights. Now, this is essentially going to be the Phillips head screw that you can just stick your Phillips head in, turn, and it adjusts the angle of the headlights, so if you ever feel like you need to adjust that, that's where that's going to be located. Same thing on the factory headlight. You're also going to see the plug and play connector. Now, in your factory housing, the connector on the bulb is right on the back end here, and it's built into the housing. Your new aftermarket one just has a harness that comes off of it. Maybe five inches, four inches, and has that connector there. Literally no difference. Plugs right into your factory harness. With all that in mind, guys, I want to show you how this one gets installed. What do you say we get to it? And then you're just going to repeat for the other side.All right. To kick things off with the install, we're going to plug in the harness to our factory harness, so just pick that up. There's only one down there that fits. Snap those in place. Should hear a little click. It's very subtle. Then you're gonna pop this into place with the factory hardware. Grab that factory 13-millimeter screw, or the bolt, and tighten it down to the side. Take the other 10-millimeters, just thread them on by hand a couple of turns, and now we can grab our sockets. You're going to start with your 13 here. Switch over to the 10, and finish the other two. At this point, you want to test out your lights, make sure everything works, before continuing the install.Now, it's about time we reinstall our bumper. Now, when you take this, you want to lay it on the top, underneath of that radiator shroud first, lining up those little holes to where they mount. Same factory location. Really just doing it in reverse order. All right, once you lay that, what I like to do is reconnect the fender section, just push those in. Now, at this point, we can reinstall the bolts straight across the top here. Now, I like to start with the 5-1/2-millimeter screws, one on each end, so I'm just going to thread that one on by hand, grab the 5-1/2 socket, and tighten that down. Same thing on the other side. All right, now we're moving on to the 8-millimeters right next to them.Next up here, just grab your radiator shroud. We're going to drop that into place. Really only goes on one way, so just drop it in, and replace those plastic pins at the top. Now, they might give you some trouble pushing all the way back down. If you need help, you can grab your panel tool and push them down. I like to put them all into place and then come back and tighten them. At this point, we can put the car back up in the air and work in our wheel wells. All right, now you want to go back in the wheel well and replace the 7-millimeter screw that held the fender to the bumper. You're going to peel back the liner, take that screw, and I know it's tough to see. You just want to find that hole, and thread it back in by hand. You can typically get it all the way down by hand, and then grab a seven short socket and just give it that quarter-turn it takes to tighten.Now, if you have those push pins, you can replace those in the wheel well now. And before you can put your splash shield back in, you gotta plug your fog lights in, so head underneath and reconnect those harnesses. Remember there's two for the fog light, and one up there for the parking light. Now repeat for the other side. All right, putting the splash shield up is pretty simple. You want to line up the front first, tuck it in under this front chin splitter, and then line everything else up. I'm going to do the push pins first, and then we'll tackle the screws and bolts.All right, now grab your 7-millimeter screws and the socket and tighten them down. All right, now we have two more at the back end of the splash shield. All right, put the car back down and you're good to go. All right, now, the last thing you want to do is reconnect the negative cable on your battery. So take the cover off, bring the cable back over, reconnect it. You want to make sure it's seated all the way down. Grab a 10-millimeter socket and tighten down the nut. Put the cover back on. All right, shut the hood, and you're good to go.Well, that's going to wrap up my review and install for the Raxiom Projector Smoked LED Headlight, for the '15 to '17 Mustang, or a 2018 and newer GT350. If you want to pick them up for yourself and your own S550, you can do so right here at americanmuscle.com.
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Features, Description, Reviews, Q&A, Specs & Installation
|Headlight Housing Color||Black|
|Headlight Lens Color||Smoked|
|Headlight Style||Aftermarket Style|
CA Residents: WARNING: Cancer and Reproductive Harm - www.P65Warnings.ca.gov
(approx) 2 Hours
Light to Moderate mechanical skill required.
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