(approx) 2 Hours
Light to Moderate mechanical skill required.
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Jake: Jake here for AmericanMuscle, and today, I'm taking a look at the MBRP XP Series Axle-Back Exhaust, for the 2016 and newer Camaro SS with the NPP Dual Mode Exhaust. If your Camaro SS came stock with that dual-mode exhaust, but you're looking to add an even more aggressive note without spending a fortune, this axle-back from MBRP needs to be on your radar. It features solid construction, an aggressive tone, and a great look, all for a very affordable price. Now, the LT1 in the Camaro makes a great noise right out of the gate, but if you want some more volume, getting rid of those stock mufflers is certainly gonna help. And since this is an axle-back setup, it isn't gonna change your mid-pipes or catalytic converters. It is still resonated, and it's just gonna eliminate or replace those mufflers at the rear of the car.Now, as you heard from the clips at the beginning of the video, the tone is aggressive, and it is louder than stock, though not quite as loud as, say, a set of straight pipes or a full-on cat-back. That said, we're gonna give this one a 3 out of 5 on our loudness meter. Maybe not quite enough to wake up the neighbors, but they will know that something is different. This setup is MBRP's Race Profile, meaning that it's gonna have more volume to it more so than their Street Profile setups. Again, this is resonated, but it is not a muffler.Now, outside of the car, you're gonna get that pretty aggressive exhaust note, but inside, it will still be quiet enough to carry on a conversation and listen to music, and you won't get a lot of drone like you might with some other exhausts, and that is due to these resonators. Now, these are known as Helmholtz resonators, or J-pipes, hence the shape. And they're not something that we're seeing all that often on aftermarket exhausts. It's only started to crop up a little bit more recently. It's typically something that you get on a custom setup, but the premise here is that these are gonna cancel out those annoying frequencies that cause that droning sound, without affecting the overall tone or volume of the exhaust. Again, this is just a resonator, it's not a muffler. So, this is really a great best-of-both-worlds type of setup. And having these resonators is a really cool feature that we don't see all the time.Now, it is worth noting that this system does not retain the active exhaust valves of your factory system, but that is part of the cost savings that you get here. Now, up until this point, you're probably thinking that this is exactly the same as MBRP's own Installer Series, and you'd be forgiven for thinking that. The sound profile is very similar, but the big difference here is in material quality. The piping is still a 3-inch mandrel-bent stainless steel, but this one is T409, as opposed to the aluminized stainless from the Installer Series.So, again, mandrel-bent, so it's gonna allow the exhaust gases to flow nice and smoothly. The material is gonna have even better corrosion and rust resistance. And as you can see, the welds are pretty nice on this setup too. Now, again, as compared to MBRP's Installer Series, the material quality here is improved, so you're gonna get better overall looks, better durability, but it's gonna keep the same type of sound, same setup overall with the resonators and the tips. And those look great mounted up on the car. These are dual-wall T304 stainless tips, and you get four of them. So, they're polished to a near-mirror finish, and they are gonna sit on the car staggered, sort of like this, and they have a very similar angle cut to your factory exhaust tips. You've also got the MBRP logo etched into the edge here. Now, that staggered setup, again, means that they're gonna mount pretty much flush with the bottom of your bumper, so it's gonna give a nice, tasteful look when they're installed, but still different enough that you're gonna be able to tell it's not stock, though you'll probably hear it before you see it.Now, when it comes to the price, this setup does fall towards the lower end of the category, coming in around $625. So, it is pretty inexpensive as compared even to some of the other axle-back systems out there for the Camaro. Though it does come in a bit higher, again, than that Installer Series from MBRP, and that, again, is due to the materials. The T409 stainless steel here is great for a build that is a bit more budget-focused, but for somebody who still wants to have a piece that is gonna last a long time. And again, you're far undercutting some of the other options in the category too, so you get that good material quality, the resonators, the nice tips. It's all gonna make for a great sound, a good look, and a pleasant driving experience. And for the price, I really don't think you can go wrong with any of that. Again, you are gonna lose those active exhaust valves, which is part of the cost savings here, but I think if you're looking for a way to amp up the sound and performance of your Camaro without blowing the budget out on an exhaust, this is gonna be an excellent option for you.Now, as far as installation goes, this is gonna get a 2 out of 3 on our difficulty scale, like most exhausts, and you should budget around two hours to get everything buttoned up. Reason for that rating is that you do need to make some cuts to your stock exhaust in order to remove those stock rear mufflers and get this new setup fitted. However, it is only two cuts, and once you've got those done, the new pipes are just gonna clamp right on, and use your existing exhaust hangers. You do also get instructions in the box on how to make those cuts, so it's very easy to measure out. The only other thing you're gonna have to do is unbolt the exhaust valve actuators from your stock setup and mount them outta the way, but MBRP provides you brackets in the kit to do that. You also get all-new clamps in the kit too, so everything you need is right here. And to show you how to get everything installed, let's head over to the install bay right now.Man: Tools required for this install include an impact gun, an electric ratchet, a hand ratchet, an exhaust hanger remover tool, a wire wheel, a 5/16 ratcheting wrench, a 3/8 to 1/4-inch adapter, a 7, 13, and 15-millimeter sockets, 8-millimeter Allen, a tape measure, a pair of safety glasses, a marker, and a Sawzall.What's up, guys? Today we're gonna be installing an exhaust on our Camaro, so let's get started. So, our first step to removing our exhaust is gonna be to disconnect our valves. Now, these are gonna be found on the outside of each side tip, so we'll get the harness, press the tab, and disconnect them. So, now our first step's gonna be to disconnect the wiring harness to our valve controller. To do that, we're gonna remove these two 7-millimeter bolts to clear up some access. You're gonna have to take these out later on eventually, because we're gonna have to slide our exhaust back this way, and the valves are gonna slide under this. So, I'll get a 7-millimeter socket to get these off. And then we can push that back out of the way, and then reach in there, and disconnect our wire harness. And then we'll do that same thing on the other side.So, the factory exhaust system has six hangers. We have two here, two here, and then two by our tips. So, we're gonna remove the inner four here. That way, we can still have our two hangers in the back holding our exhaust up while we disconnect our flanges up front. So, we can get the two on our passenger side first. So, I'll grab an exhaust hanger remover tool and pop off these isolators. And then on this one, the hanger on our pipe's a little longer than the one from chassis. So we'll pop off our top isolator, and then we can pop it off at the bottom, and slide it back on the top. Now we can do the same thing on our driver's side.Now, our next step is to remove our brace here. We have five 13-millimeter bolts holding that in, so I'll get a 13-millimeter socket on an impact gun to get these off. Now, our next step's gonna be to disconnect our O2 sensors on both sides. Now, you can do this either by unscrewing the O2 sensor, or simply just unplugging the harness. We're gonna unplug the harness. So, there's a white tab that you're gonna push up, and then push in, and then it'll separate our connector. We'll take our white tab, push up on it, and then we can press down, and slide our connector out. Now, this side's gonna be the same thing. It's just a little deeper in there. Pull back on that tab, and then disconnect our connector.So, now we can work on our two flanges. We'll get those disconnected with a 15-millimeter socket. I've got a pole jack here to hold the exhaust in place, so it doesn't drop down once we disconnect it. And then once we have our two flanges disconnected, we'll grab a buddy to help us pull the whole exhaust out of the car. So now, on this side, we don't have much clearance, so I'm gonna get a 15-millimeter socket with a ratchet on this side, and then we can use our impact gun on this side. So, I've got some penetrating lubricant I sprayed on here, just to make it a little bit easier to get these off.Now, on this side, we can use a 15-millimeter socket on an impact gun to loosen this clamp. So now, I have a pole jack set up underneath our muffler to keep it in place, and then we're gonna be removing the two bolts on our hanger, on both sides, to release the muffler. So, now we can take a 15-millimeter socket on a ratchet to get our two nuts off. And then we'll do that same thing on the other side. So, now would be a good time to grab yourself a buddy, and you can take one end while your buddy takes the others, and then we'll just simply slide it out and remove it from the car.So now, with the exhaust removed from our car, we can take our valves off. Now, we'll be using a 5/16-inch ratcheting wrench to remove this. And then we can repeat that same process on the other side. And now we can remove our final two hangers on our stock exhaust, using an exhaust hanger remover tool. So, our first step's gonna be to mount our valve actuators to our brackets. Now, this system allows you to retain your valve, so that you can plug it in and not get any check engine lights. However, there are no actual valves in this system. So, using sport mode, to track, and to your normal driving won't change your sound at all with this setup. So, we can lay our bracket down on top of our actuator, and then grab our 5/16 bolts and thread them into the holes. Then we'll do that same thing on this side. And then we'll take a 5/16 ratcheting wrench to tighten these bolts down.So, now we can reinstall our valve actuator. So, we'll reconnect our wire harness, and then this is gonna sandwich in between our diffuser and this metal heat shield. And then we can reuse our factory 7-millimeter bolts. And then we can take our 7-millimeter socket to tighten these down. And then we can repeat that same process on the other side. So now, with our stock exhaust removed, we're gonna come to right behind the rear muffler, where we're gonna make our cut for our new exhaust. So, now we can grab our tape measure and a marker, and we're gonna measure out 8 inches from the rear muffler back. Eight inches puts us right here, so we'll make our line. And then we'll do the same thing on the other side. Measure out our 8 inches, and mark our spot.So now, with our measurements made and our cut lines in place, you can grab yourself a Sawzall, or your cutting apparatus of choice, and a pair of safety glasses, and we can make our cuts. And now that we have our exhaust flipped over to the other side, to make it a little bit easier to cut, we can make our cut on our other pipe. So now, with our cuts made, we're gonna take a wire wheel to clean up our edges a little. So now, with our exhaust cut and our edges cleaned up, now's a good time to grab yourself a buddy to help you line up the secondary cats in the front while you get the hangers into the isolators.Now we'll reinstall our two 15-millimeter nuts on our passenger-side secondary cat. Now we'll take a 15-millimeter socket, going back and forth tightening these down, to put even pressure on our flange. And then we'll take a 15-millimeter socket to tighten down the clamp on our driver's side. And now we can reconnect our O2 sensor harness. So, we're gonna slide that up out of the way, so it doesn't hang on anything hot or moving, and then we'll just click it in like that. And now we can reinstall our brace, with our five 13-millimeter bolts. And then we'll just make sure all of our holes are centered. And then take our 13-millimeter socket to tighten these bolts down.So, now we can take our driver-side muffler pipe, with a 2 and 3/4-inch clamp. We'll slide our clamp over, and then we're gonna get our hanger into our isolator, and then meet it up to our stock exhaust tailpipe. And then we can grab our clamp and slide it into position. And then we can tighten that down with a 15-millimeter socket. Next, we can take our Y-pipe, with one of our 3-inch clamps, and then we can slide that onto our muffler pipe. And then we can slide our clamp into position, and use a 15-millimeter socket to tighten this down.Now we can reinstall our hanger bracket. So, we're gonna slide that over our hanger first, and then we can push our exhaust up. And then we'll take our two 15-millimeter nuts and thread those on. And then we'll come in with a 15-millimeter socket to tighten these down.So, now we can install our tips. So, these are just gonna slide right over our Y-pipe. And then we can take an 8-millimeter Allen bit to tighten these down. And then once we're done with that, we can repeat the same process on the other side.So, that'll wrap up this review and install of the MBRP XP Series Axle-Back Exhaust, for your 2016 and newer Camaro SS with NPP Dual Mode Exhaust. Thank you for watching. And remember, for all things Camaro, keep it right here at AmericanMuscle.com.
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Features, Description, Reviews, Q&A, Specs & Installation
|Exhaust System Type||Axle-Back System|
|Exhaust System Material||Stainless Steel|
|Exhaust System Tip Finish||Chrome, Polished|
|Exhaust System Tubing Diameter||3.00 Inch|
Aggressive Exhaust Note. Add an aggressive exhaust note to the sound of your Camaro's exhaust with a MBRP XP Series Axle-Back Exhaust System. This Axle-Back exhaust features specially tuned resonators that will produce an aggressive exhaust note under acceleration, but a mellow tone at idle. Besides an increase in sound, this MBRP Axle-Back, with its full mandrel bent piping, will reduce restrictions giving your Camaro a more free-flowing exhaust for gains in both power and performance.
T-409 Stainless Steel Construction. MBRP proudly manufactures their XP Series Axle-Back Exhaust systems from 3-inch diameter, mandrel-bent, heavy duty, T-409 stainless steel tubing for excellent exhaust flow and corrosion resistance. The system features a pair of quad 4-inch polished, T-304 stainless steel exhaust tips with embossed MBRP logo.
Cut and Clamp Installation. The installation of this MBRP Axle-Back Exhaust system will require cutting and removing the stock muffler assemblies. The new Axle-Back assemblies will install in place of the old. Installation of this MBRP Axle-Back can be completed in about two to three hours. This Axle-Back reuses the existing factory hangers for installation. Clamps and instructions are provided.
Application. This MBRP XP Series Axle-Back Exhaust is designed to fit 2016-2023 Chevrolet Camaro SS with NPP Dual Mode Exhaust.
CA Residents: WARNING: Cancer and Reproductive Harm - www.P65Warnings.ca.gov
(approx) 2 Hours
Light to Moderate mechanical skill required.
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