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Sequential Projector Headlights; Matte Black Housing; Smoked Lens (15-17 Mustang; 18-22 Mustang GT350, GT500)

Item 431918
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Ship to: Ashburn - 20149
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      Video Review & Installation

      Jake: Jake here for AmericanMuscle, and today I'm taking a look at these sequential projector headlights with matte black housings and smoked lenses fitting 2015 to 2017 Mustangs, as well as 2018 to 2022 GT350 and GT500s. If you're looking for a subtle but meaningful update to your Mustang's front end lighting, these might be just what you're looking for. They're just different enough to make for a cool visual update while also improving the internal lighting for an upgrade that is both cool and functional while still being relatively affordable.Now, we see a lot of headlights around these parts and there's a ton of options out there for S550 owners, but I really took a shine, pun intended to these, because they keep the styling a bit more subtle while still providing a meaningful update to the lighting. Now, the first thing you're likely gonna notice are the sinister looking eyebrow-like pieces around the outer edges, top and bottom here.Now, styling is of course subjective, but I think these look pretty darn cool and they pair well with the S550 styling, makes for a more aggressive look without going overboard like some aftermarket options can do. Now, the matte black internal housing here and the smoked lenses also helps the case, but those eyebrow pieces aren't just about styling, they're functional too. So these are gonna function as your daytime running lights and light up this nice clean white. They utilize fiber optic technology too, so there's no single point of light like what you would get with say a strip of LEDs or an incandescent bulb. They're bright and clean all the way through, nothing kind of fussy about them.They also function as your turn signal and they bring that cool sequential feature to the front end matching up with the sequential signals on the tail lights. Now, you will have to do a little bit of wiring to get that to work, but it's cool to have it included there too. These also have one more fun trick up their sleeve and that is the "breathing effect." Now, I'm gonna age myself here, but this kind of reminds me of Knight Rider's KITT, so that white light is gonna sweep back and forth giving the lights and the car itself this really cool vibe when you start it up.Overall, it's a really cool setup and certainly gonna make a statement on your Mustang. Now, as for regular beams, you've got a big projector like you would from the factory. It's gonna be your high and low beam and it's gonna utilize those standard HID bulbs. So these are gonna produce a brighter clean beam light more than standard halogens if you have those from the factory, and you've got adjusters integrated here as well. So you're gonna be able to see pretty well at night, which if you're upgrading the lights, that is kind of the whole point. Right?Now, these are also SAE and DOT compliant making them fully street legal. The only caveat with these lights is that you are gonna have to provide the bulbs for the main beams. However, those are readily accessible, very easy to get, so not too much to worry about there.Now, the lights are pretty much your standard construction. You've got your plastic outer housings and inner housings, plus that smoked UV-coated polycarbonate lens over top. Now, these are also, of course, weather-sealed to help keep out dirt and moisture. The main beams, again, utilize those standard H7 bulbs, and you are gonna have to provide those. Now, these are otherwise a pretty much plug-and-play setup. You will have to do a little bit of wiring if you wanna get that sequential turn signal feature wired up too. But otherwise, these are pretty great, and you've got your adjusters in the back, like I mentioned a few minutes ago too.Pricing is gonna come in at around $850, and that does put them right in line with some others in the category. So, choice here is likely gonna come down to style and the light output. Now, if you're a fan of these things, you're gonna be pretty happy with this setup. Again, it's not gonna cost you much more or less than any other comparable ones in the category.Installation is gonna get a two out of three on our difficulty meter and should take you about two hours to install. Now, these are pretty much a plug-and-play installation. However, you are gonna have to do a little bit of wiring for that sequential turn signal feature. And you're also gonna have to remove the front bumper cover to gain access to the lights. This is why we get that two out of three here. But overall, still not a very difficult job. But enough talking about it. Let's head out to the install bay now and we'll show you that process.Male Speaker 1: For this install, you will need an impact, 3/8s to quarter inch adapter if necessary, T20 Torx bit, 7, 8, 10, and 13-millimeter sockets, Phillips and flathead screwdriver in our case, wire strippers and crimpers, a clip removal tool, also not shown here is a male spade connector and T-taps for each side, as well as the jack and jack stands to get underneath the vehicle.What's up, guys? Today we're gonna be installing some headlights on our Mustang, but before we do that, we're gonna go ahead and send you to watch a short video on how to remove your factory headlights and we'll see you when you get back.Male Speaker 2: So for this install, we're gonna have to get the car up in the air a little bit and we're gonna have to remove the front bumper. It's a pretty simple process. I'm gonna walk you through it. So let's get started. I'm gonna start by using my clip tool to remove the clips that hold the upper rad cover on. And I'll just pull these out and pull the rad cover off.So with my rad cover out of the way, I can take my 8-mil socket and remove the six 8-mil screws along the top of the bumper, but don't forget the 7-mil screws hiding underneath the weatherstrip here, and I'm just gonna use a 7-mil socket to get those out.Now, I need to pull back my inner fender liner here up against the front bumper. There are four clips here on the inside of the wheel well, one of ours is missing, but just imagine that it's there and there's two at the bottom that I'll have to remove. And then I can pull my wheel well liner back far enough to gain access to the bolt that is behind the liner on the corner of the front bumper. I'm just gonna use my clip tool once again to pull the clips out and then I can pull the liner back.So, back here at the corner of this bumper, there is a plastic bracket that mounts the fender to the bumper and there's a seven-millimeter screw that goes through the two and attaches the bumper into the fender. And what you're gonna have to do is take a seven-millimeter socket on your ratchet to remove it. Now, our bumper has been off so many times that that hardware is missing, but all you need is a seven-millimeter socket and ratchet and it'll come right out. Now, I'm just gonna repeat this exact same process on the other side of the vehicle, and once again, remove the seven-millimeter screw here at the corner of the bumper.Now, you can pull your fender liner back once again and remove the seven-millimeter screw right here. With our fender liners pulled back and the corner of our bumper unbolted, now we can unhook our fog lights and turn signals as these are going to be coming off with the bumper when we remove it from the car. So I'm just gonna unplug my connectors, and pull them off the back of the lights. And then I'm just gonna do the same thing on the other side.So next, I'm gonna use a combination of a clip removal tool and a seven-millimeter socket on my impact to remove the four screws and two clips on the bottom of the belly pan, but I'm gonna leave it attached to the front bumper so everything comes off in one piece. Let's go with the screws first. So now you're gonna wanna very carefully pop the corners of the front bumper out. Make sure not to damage these tabs as you will need them to reinstall the bumper. And with both of the corners popped off now, we can remove the front bumper.So now that I have my bumper pulled off, I have access to all the hardware for the headlight. I'm gonna use a 10-millimeter socket for the top and bottom 10-millimeter screws and a 13-millimeter socket for the outer screw. So now I can remove my headlight and unplug the connector.Male Speaker 1: All righty, guys, welcome back. Now that we've shown you how to remove your factory lights from the vehicle, there's a few things we're gonna need to do in order to get our new assembly ready to go over to the car. So, we're gonna come to the back of our factory headlight first. And we're gonna need to remove the factory ballast as well as the factory bulb because our new assembly reuses those in its setup.So, we're gonna come to our headlight cover here. We're gonna give it a turn counterclockwise to pop it out of its seat and go ahead and remove that so we can access our bulb. Now, sometimes these tend to get a little stuck, especially if they haven't been touched in quite some time. The seal on them tends to...like to bond to the plastic but once you get it out, it's gonna pop right out like so. So now we can go ahead and pop our factory bulb out. It should just pull straight out like this. Now you wanna be careful not to bang the glass on any part of the housing. And yours from factory should have a little retainer ring here as well as a hook. Ours is a little worse for wear due to previous installs and it being off and on so many times. But it should be a metal ring here as well as kind of like a U-clip hook thing.And so once we have the bulb out, we can go ahead and just unplug it from the harness. Make sure not to touch the glass with bare hands as that will cause hot spots and premature failure on your bulb. Now we can go ahead and remove our ballast, and for that we have these four T20 Torx screws holding it in. So we'll grab our T20 Torx bit on our impact and run these out. We can go ahead and pull our ballast away from our headlight assembly, and you're going to fish your headlight plug wire back through your housing so that will be out and free. Then we have this plug here that we're gonna need to disconnect because it has a new plug on the new assembly.So this plug here has a tab on the back side of it that you can go ahead and use a small flathead screwdriver. So just pry up and back and your plugs should just pop right out like so. We can go ahead and remove our ballast and set our factory headlight aside now. So now we can come to our new assembly here. You can see there's an opening for our ballast. Now we'll reach in here and find our ballast plug. Take our ballast and go ahead and plug that in just like it came out of the factory one. Make sure it seats and clips. We can feed our headlight plug back through our housing.Now, you also wanna remove your cover on this one, which is just a rubber cap, it pulls right off. And you can reach in here as you're feeding your plug through. It's kind of a tricky feed, but there's a few spots that it will just pass right through. Once it comes through, you wanna pull it through enough to where you have access to it outside of the housing, and then we can orient our ballast properly, line it up with all of its dowels like so. And we can go ahead and re-secure our ballast reusing our factory T20 Torx screws. And we'll go ahead and get these started into our new assembly here, makes it a little bit easier to run them in if you do start them by hand. Sometimes they're kind of tricky either way. I know that's not exactly straight. That's okay.Now, once we have them all started, we can go ahead and again grab our T20 Torx bit on our impact and run these in. Now, remember, you are going into plastic, there's no need to over-tighten these or go crazy. Nice and snug will do. Now, once we have that done, we can go ahead and install our bulb. Now, you notice this has a ring here. We're gonna go ahead and pull that out. We'll give it a turn counterclockwise again. This is gonna be our retainer ring for our bulb, so we'll go ahead and separate that and get that onto our bulb. It does have a few locator dowels here. You need to go ahead and roughly line those up. Go ahead and snap that into place, and we can go ahead and plug our bulb back in and get that set into position. Again, you wanna make sure you're not damaging your glass as you're getting this in. It's a little bit tricky at first, but it will go in. Once you get it set, you can go ahead and give it a turn clockwise and lock it into place. We'll go ahead and reinstall our rubber boot here.So now this set of headlights does have additional functions that we need to tap into our turn signal harness for. And it does come with inline taps, but we found that male spade connectors and T-taps on our harness side are a little bit more efficient and secure. So we're gonna take our exposed wire here and we're gonna add our male spade connector to this wire, just like so. Then we'll grab our wire strippers and crimpers. We'll go ahead and give that a solid crimp. After that, we'll give it a little tug just to make sure it's nice and secure. So now once you have this complete for this headlight, you can go ahead and repeat the same process on your other side.So now we can go ahead and begin installing the light onto our vehicle. So we're gonna grab our factory harness side connector from our car, plug that into our connector on our headlight. Snap that right into place. Then we can go ahead and set our headlight into its mounting position like so. It has a locator up top and on the side just like factory. Once we have that in, we'll go ahead and get our hardware started. We'll start with our 10-mil mounting bolts up front here, put the top and the bottom. You may need to move your bottom one a little bit to get it started. And we'll go ahead and install our 13-mil on the side, get this tightened down.Now we'll go ahead and get our 13-millimeter mounting bolt on the side here started. We'll run that in, and we'll grab our 13-mil socket on our impact, tighten down our side mounting bolt first. It's snug. And we'll use our 10-mil socket to tighten down our front mounting bolts. So now we can go ahead and get our yellow signal wire plugged into our turn signal harness. Now as you can see, we already have T-taps on here from previous installs. But on your driver's side, you're gonna wanna tap into the blue wire on your turn signal connector here. And we'll go ahead and install our male spade connector into our T-tap. And on the other side, it is going to be the white wire.So now that we have both headlights in place, we can go ahead and begin reinstalling our bumper. So we're gonna go ahead and grab it. I like to grab it here by these two holes where the seven-millimeter screws go in the top. Keeps everything kind of spread out. We'll go ahead and line this up. We'll drop it in on our locator dowels along the top ridge of our bumper here. Those dowels are gonna hold this in place while we line everything else back up. So now we'll go ahead and get our bumper lined up with our fender. Get that back into its place, nice and flush.Now, remember, yours from the factory will have the screw you will have to reinstall and ours is no longer with us due to previous installs and being off and on numerous amount of times. So, now that we have that lined up, we'll go ahead and do the same thing for the other side. So, for the sake of video, we're gonna show you your wiring reinstall for your bumper lights on the passenger side as opposed to where we've been on the driver's side just because it's a little bit easier to see but the process is the exact same on both sides.So first, we're gonna go ahead and grab our turn signal connector here. We'll get that back into place, brown to brown. This matches up with the color. Make sure that snaps in. We'll get our marker light connector into place. That would be our gray connector here, goes up over your fog light. And then lastly, our fog light connector here, get that into place. So that clicks in. Then we can go ahead and get our fender liner back into place. Go ahead and get this tucked back in, get all of our clip holes lined up. We have our one on the inside here that's kind of worn out, but it goes to our splash guard. So we'll go ahead and get our ones on our liner in. Liner to bumper. Liner to bumper. Get our chassis one in over here.And then you should have one down underneath as well. Ours, again, is no longer with us, but that should be there from the factory. Then once you have this done on this side, you can go ahead and repeat these same steps for the other side. We'll go ahead and get our splash guard mounted up. Now we can go ahead and get our two push pins and our six screws back into place on our splash guard. We'll start with our two push pins here on the rear outer edge. We have those in, we can go ahead and reinstall our seven-millimeter screws with our seven-mil socket. Start with our two forward ones here. And then our fourth screws in the rear.Now we can lower the car down, get everything up top buttoned up, and that'll be it. So now using our 8-mil socket, we can go ahead and reinstall all of our eight-millimeter screws along the top of our bumper here.Now we can reinstall what is supposed to be a seven-millimeter screw on each outer edge here. Ours are Phillips head just as replacements, again, due to many installs and removals. We'll use our Phillips head screwdriver here. We wanna make sure we don't damage our weatherstripping in the process. We'll go ahead and run these in. And then we'll do the same thing for the other side. Lastly, we'll go ahead and get our upper radiator cover back into place. Go ahead and make sure that seats, all of our holes line up, nothing is being pinched under it. We'll go ahead and reinstall all of our push pins.All righty, guys, that about wraps up our review and install of our sequential projector headlights in matte black housings and smoked lenses for your '15 to '17 Mustang and '18 to current Mustang GT350 and GT500. Thanks for watching, and as always, for everything Mustang, keep it right here at americanmuscle.com.

      Product Information

      Features, Description, Reviews, Q&A, Specs & Installation

      Features & Specs

      • Sequential Projector Headlights
      • Reliable Lighting
      • Matte Black Housing
      • Smoked Lenses
      • Strong Composite Material
      • Weather and UV Resistant
      • Easy Installation
      • Fits 2015-2017 Mustang and 2018-2022 Mustang GT350 and GT500 Models

      Description

      Modern Lighting Solution. The Sequential Projector Headlights; Matte Black Housing; Smoked Lens is the ultimate upgrade for Mustang enthusiasts looking to enhance their car's appearance and lighting performance. Crafted from high-quality composite, these headlights are built to last and withstand harsh weather conditions, ensuring your investment will endure for years to come. The matte black housing and smoked lens provide a bold and aggressive look to your Mustang's front end.

      Installation. This product is easy to install and should take only about 2 hours to install due to having to remove the front bumper.

      Application. The Sequential Projector Headlights; Matte Black Housing; Smoked Lens fits 2015-2017 Mustang and 2018-2022 Mustang GT350 and GT500 models.

      Fitment:

      Details

      CA Residents: WARNING: Cancer and Reproductive Harm - www.P65Warnings.ca.gov

      Installation & What's in the Box

      Installation Info

      What's in the Box

      • (2) Headlights
      4.8

      Customer Reviews (5)

        Reviews of similar Lights products have an average rating of 4.5 out of 5

          Questions & Answers

          10 More Questions

          Will It Fit My Mustang

          • GT350 - 18, 19, 20
          • GT500 - 20, 21, 22