Review & Install Video
Justin: The Yellow Speed Racing Dynamic Pro coilovers fitting your '94 to '04 solid rear axle Mustang, will be one of the nicer options currently available here on the site, for south of $1,000. Now, the Dynamic Pros here will feature an electroplated mono-tube design for the damper itself. Those dampers will be thirty-three-way adjustable, and it will lower the car roughly two and a half inches or more, essentially allowing you to slam your SN95 to the ground. Price point will be in that mid-to-low $900 ballpark, and the install according to the site's gonna get a solid two out of three wrenches on the difficulty meter. About six hours or less from start to finish, but if you hang with me for a little bit, we'll show you how it's done. So for you guys watching at home who don't know, Yellow Speed Racing is an overseas based company who produces a plethora of suspension and braking components for just about every kind of car or truck under the sun. Now, full disclosure guys, the Dynamic Pros here will be the company's entry level coilover, and will appeal to most daily drivers out there. For the SN95, majority of time spent on the road, but maybe with the occasional track day mixed in for good measure. Now they do also offer some more hardcore options in the land of coilovers, basically two and three-way adjustable stuff. But, for all intents and purposes, the Dynamic Pros here I would say appeal to 95% of owners out there, and will be a solid buy. But with that in mind, let's break these puppies down a little bit further, and again the star, in my opinion here, will be the mono-tube dampers, front and rear, both of which again are thirty-three-way adjustable, so, that will basically allow you guys to soften or stiffen your ride quality depending on your personal preferences. Damper itself is gonna be based on a 52 millimeter shock body, that body again has been electrocoated to prevent any rust or corrosion over the years. And inside that shock body or mono-tube damper, will be the high-quality steel piston rod, upgraded piston seals, and last but not least, a unique damper oil that Yellow Speed utilizes to prevent any foaming or cavitation. Now as far as your spring rates are concerned here, for the SN95 chassis, you're gonna find a 10k spring for the front, 7k spring for the rear, and those springs will be riding on the 6061 forged aluminum adjustable collars. Now, in regards to the drop and the adjustability here, Yellow Speed tells us that these coils will help you drop your SN95 two and a half inches or more depending on your application, which, if you know drops, and you know this SN chassis, you know two and a half inches or more will essentially allow you to make the car undrivable. So, you do have some good adjustability here with the coilovers, outside of the handling performance aspect. If you're more into a stance scene, whatever you wanna call it, you can certainly actually achieve a nice low stance with these Yellow Speed options. Now last but not least here gang, the Yellow Speed coils do include some pretty nice pillow ball mounts for the front. They do also come with adjustable caster camber plates, which, nice addition, if I'm being honest, for the price, again south of 1,000 bucks, certainly puts these things in that entry-level category. You're also getting a 15 month warranty here with each set of coils, in case of any issues right out of the box or for that first year or more. And now, well, I wanna stop talking and show you guys what it takes to get them installed. So, what do you say hang out for a little bit, we'll show you our walk-through on the SN95, on our New Edge to be exact, in addition to what kind of tools you will need for the job, check it out.Man 1: Tools required for this installation are gonna include a pry bar, push pin removal tool, a mallet, 3/8 drive, sockets ranging from 10 up to 24 millimeters, flat-head screwdriver, 21 millimeter wrench, 18 and 15 millimeter wrench, various extensions, safety glasses for your die grinder, or file, optional is an air ratchet, half inch impact, and this 3/8 impact. All right. We're gonna start on our rear first. So, to get started, we're gonna pop our trunk, and we're gonna have to remove some of this liner here, and we're starting back here, there's four Christmas tree clips, and there are two plastic nuts here that you can just turn to the left. All right. There is a little slot, we can get a flat-head in there, if you can't get it the rest of the way. We're gonna remove both of these, there's one on this side and one on the other. When you get it out, it will look like...and when you get that out, it will look like this. Can see the threads [inaudible 00:04:32] All right. Now we're gonna take our push pin remover tool and remove these four large Christmas tree clips, and they're holding this striker plate in place. All right. Now we're gonna push our carpet back just a little bit, that way we can get some more room to move our carpet. Now there's two little studs we have to get past here, we're gonna kick the bottom out here, and just move this out of the way so we can access the top of our shocks, which are right there. Again, kick the bottom out, and then pull down. All right. Now that the vehicle is still on the ground, we can get our 15 millimeter nut off the top of our shock. I'm using an air impact here. We're gonna keep that on the side there, and get both of these outta here. All right. Now let's get the vehicle in the air. We're just gonna get the vehicle up in the air. If you're on the ground, just use a good set of jack and jack stands. All right. Now that we have the vehicle in the air, we're gonna take the wheels and tires off, so I can show you where the springs are, and a couple other things we have to remove. All right. So now we're gonna remove our factory shock, it is a 15 millimeter head on that bolt, and 18 millimeter nut. We're gonna save this factory hardware for our new Yellow Racing shocks. Do that on both sides. All right. Now we're gonna remove our quad shock. That is an 18 millimeter nut. Separate it like that, and then we're gonna get this 15 millimeter bolt out the backside. All right. Next we're gonna be removing our brake line bracket on both sides, just to get in a little extra room for this brake line here. That's a 10 millimeter socket. Take that nut...just gonna take that bolt out, and knock that bracket down just like that. So we're gonna do that on the other side here, and then we're gonna lower this rear axle down and get these factory springs out of the way. All right. Now I'm gonna lower my axle evenly on both sides, you can see I have these pole jacks here which are a huge help. So, I'm just gonna go until I can't go any further. Looks like that's about it. I'm gonna go a little bit further, because you can bring this axle down a little bit. But what we're gonna do now, is grab these springs outta here, and go even further down here. All right. So what I have here is a very large pry bar. I'm going to pry on the bottom of the spring here, and pry it out of its factory location. All right. Now we do that on the other side as well. All right, again the same kind of technique here on the passenger side, just gonna use our pry bar, get it out of the bottom pocket here, just like that. All right, guys. As you can see on the table, we have our stock springs next to our Yellow Racing springs. And you can see the huge vast difference, just in the width of them alone, but in the height, it's crazy. So, these are totally adjustable, and you can set your height here with this ring, and then this is your lock collar here, they give you the spanner wrenches there. Now we're not gonna put it on the lowest setting because we don't want to be dragging our frame, or rubbing on anything on the road, so we're gonna go right about that size, and we're gonna set this one to that as well. So, quick way to do it is just on the table here. Just align those things up, and then we're gonna lock those collars down. Then moving onto the shocks over here. You can see that there is a slight height difference, but we're gonna be dropping it a great amount, so, that'll be probably right on point. Now let's get all these parts on the Mustang. All right, guys. I'm gonna bring the new spring into place, I wanna show you something. Now the top of this is gonna sit right here, and we have a little bit of clearance in the back right there. So what we're gonna do is, we're gonna take a die grinder, and just open that up a little bit on both sides. If you don't have a die grinder at home you can use a file. All right. Cool. Looks like it fits in there perfectly. Now we're gonna do that on both sides, and drop our spring in, so it's gonna look like this. The rubber isolator on the bottom is gonna go there. I'm gonna take these rubber bands out before I permanently attach it, but, when we bring the rear up, that bottom's gonna sit on the bottom of the spring perch. All right. So I'm gonna put our bottom rubber isolator on that lower control arm, and bring our spring and front mount into place. Now when I bring this axle back into place, I am going to have to move this into its new location. But that's easy. And grab the other spring, put that in the other side. I actually cut this one so tight that it actually press-fits in there, so that's a bonus. Now we're gonna put this on the bottom here. We're gonna remove our stock rubber isolator and put our new one in there with our new spring. Again, when you bring that axle up, we're just gonna move that spring, so it mates up there. We'll start bringing our axle up, make sure our line is clear of that. And I actually wanna make sure that isolator's sitting there. Make sure that spring is seated in there, just like that. Shock on the...our spring on the bottom is where it needs to be, on the control arm. Now we're gonna make sure this side is the same as well, and start jacking up on that. All right. So now we're gonna put our shock into place. But we're gonna put these threads through the trunk first, and compress the spring a little bit so we can get it into that bottom mount. Slip your factory hardware through, gonna tap that with my mallet. All right. I have the other side in already, let's tighten that up, it's again, a 15 millimeter head, and the 18 millimeter nut on the backside. All right. Let's tighten up this shock, it's a 15 millimeter head on this bolt, then a 18 millimeter nut. All right. Now we're gonna get our quad shocks back into place, starting with the front. We're gonna slip it into the mount on the axle here, and then put our 15 millimeter bolt through, and just start that so it doesn't fall out. And now we're gonna bring this back onto our mount, might have to hit it down a little bit. That goes back on as well. This is gonna be the 18 millimeter for the nut as well. All right. Now we're gonna tighten up that other bolt for our quad shock. We're gonna repeat the steps here on the passenger side, get this quad shock back into place, starting with the front and that 15 millimeter bolt. All right. Let's get our brake line bracket mounted back into place, that's that 10 millimeter kind of screw. Remember to do this on both sides. All right. So now we're gonna put our nut on top of the shock. This is the old hardware, you can see it's one piece. Here's the new. This is gonna be your rubber isolator, you're gonna make sure that that little dimple is on the downside, gonna put the washer on top, and tighten it down with a 17 millimeter socket. Hopefully, we can just buzz this on and not have to use an Allen key, but we'll see. All right, we're gonna crush it a little bit more. All right. That should be good there, we're gonna do that on both sides. Moving on to the driver side, let's get this nut on the top of our shock. All right. So now that we have the nuts on top of our shocks, when we remove this jack, it should...those shocks should act as a limiter and not allow our diff to drop down and spit out those springs. So let's remove that, and take a look. All right. So that's gonna wrap up the back, let's move on to the front. Moving on to the front, let's pop our hood, and let's get the vehicle up in the air and the wheels and tires off. Now we're gonna remove our sway bar end link here, it's a 15 millimeter socket. Now we're gonna remove our caliper next, that as well is a 15 millimeter socket, on the other side of that brake line. This is a caliper hanger, we're gonna put it right here, that little hole right there so it doesn't fall. I'm gonna take out the other bolt through our whole caliper. Get that caliper off the rotor there. Now we're gonna hang it from there just like that. We're gonna also remove our rotor, and we're also gonna make some room here, get this wheel speed sensor. All right. Now we're gonna lower the Mustang back down, get our jack underneath that control arm, get the nuts off the top of there, and then get our 21 millimeter nuts off the shock itself. All right. So I have a 24 millimeter socket, I'm gonna put on my impact here, and just lightly take off this bracket here. Set that off to the side, and we're gonna keep that 24 millimeter socket on there, and buzz off these nuts that hold the strut to our spindle. So, just like that, but we're gonna leave that bolt in there. What we're gonna do now is take these bolts outta here and separate our spindle from our strut, and you can just pull these to separate them. Now we're gonna to the top here and get this hardware outta here. All right. So we got our 15 millimeter socket back on our air ratchet, let's zip these two nuts and this one bolt outta here. You can start to see it fall a little bit. What we're gonna do is sit down on our stool, grab it from the bottom side, and assist it on its way outta here. All right. There you go. Now you can set this to the side, we are not gonna be reusing. All right. Now that we have our strut out of the way, we are going to lower the jack, and release some of the tension on that spring in that pocket there. We have to remove that, it's gonna be kind of tough, may need an extra hand or a pry bar. As you can see, our sway bar end link came out of our sway bar there. And we are fully decompressed there, you can get a little action outta there, sometimes you can just grab it, then pull, just like that. And we're gonna take this isolator out of there too, we're not gonna need that. All right. Let's get our coilover in place and button everything up. All right. I took the nuts off the top. What we're gonna do now is snake this up to the top of our strut mount here, and then supporting it from the bottom, we're gonna start our nuts. All right. So our next step is to get our spindle back into our coilover. What we're gonna do is jack up on the lower control arm and push our sway bar back into its location there, just like that. Then we can put our bushing and our nut on top of it, just to kind of keep what we got, I'm gonna do that real quick. I'm not gonna tighten it down just yet, we'll get back to it. All right. Now we can lift up on the lower control arm and the spindle, we may need the jack though to help us out, just to make our life a little easier. And you can move this around to the position you need it to go, just like that. And jack up a little bit more on that, until the holes line up, and I'm gonna start my hardware. We are reusing that factory 24 millimeter bolt and nut. Let's tighten that up now. All right. Lemme get my wrench on this so it doesn't spin. All right. So for the bolt head, I have a 21 millimeter wrench, and on the backside again that's a 24 millimeter socket for the nut, let's tighten that up top and bottom. All right. Let's tighten up our sway bar end link here, then get our rotor and caliper back on. Now, we are gonna reuse this bracket for our wheel speed sensor here, you just slip that bottom on both of the studs, and then it's only on by one nut on the top there. You might find that it comes into contact with that, you can bend this out though. Lemme put that on there. I'm not gonna go crazy with this impact, I'm just gonna get it set. All right. Now let's get our wheel speed sensor back on that bracket. And we're gonna reattach all of those while we're in here. Now let's get our rotor on, and our caliper. Just turn it, make sure it's not hitting anything. So get this brake off its bracket here, slide it back on over your rotor. All right. Now let's get our 15 millimeter hardware. It's gonna be tough to see this. [inaudible 00:22:30]. All right. Now we're gonna tighten up those caliper bolts with our 15 millimeter socket. All right, guys. That's gonna wrap of my install of the Yellow Speed Racing coilover kit for this Mustang. And for all things Mustang, keep it here at americanmuscle.com.