(approx) 3 Hours
Light to Moderate mechanical skill required.
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Jake: Jake here for American Muscle, and today I've got the Borla ATAK Cat-Back Exhaust with Polished Tips for 2016 and newer Camaro SS Coupes with the NPP dual mode exhaust or factory quad exhaust. If you're looking for the ultimate street exhaust for your Camaro SS, then look no further than the Borla ATAK system. This one combines awesome sound with good looks and the highest quality construction. Now it is a spendy piece, but if you want volume and quality without having any compromise, this is gonna be your ticket.Now, Borla is well known in the enthusiast community for making some of the best exhausts you can buy, especially when it comes to the sound. And their ATAK series is the loudest of the bunch. On our loudness meter, this one's gonna go right at the top with a five out of five, definitely enough to make a big difference in the driving experience of your Camaro. Like you heard in the clips at the beginning of the video, you're gonna get that deep verbally aggressive racecar-inspired note on the outside and you're gonna get quite a bit more volume versus stock inside the cabin as well. But Borla has some neat tricks up their sleeve to make it all very pleasing sound and to eliminate drone. So this one goes beyond just being loud.The ATAK name stands for Acoustically Tuned Applied Kinetics, which is a Borla exclusive technology that allows them to tune each exhaust for a specific vehicle application. They use what they call polyphonic harmonizing technology, which sounds like a buzzword, but that's exactly the point, there's no buzz here. This is essentially the same type of science that goes into tuning pipe organs. So they use different lengths of pipe to control different frequencies, thus eliminating obtrusive or dissonant sounds.Now in this system, that trickery is right here inside of these resonators, which you can hopefully see. Now these bits utilize different sizes and diameters of piping, perforated tube shaped cores and different patterns within to make the frequencies harmonize. So you're gonna get a really nice sound and the volume that you want with zero drone. Now you might have noticed too that this system also includes an X-pipe, which is not something that you find in every other exhaust system. X-pipes help even out exhaust pulses caused by uneven firing orders like you find in a traditional pushrod V8 such as the LT1. It's also gonna help even out the exhaust pressure utilizing this crossover pipe here, all of which combines with the rest of this technology to eliminate exhaust drone in the cabin, and that is the big key here in my opinion.So many exhausts might sound really good, but they can have some pretty terrible drone, which is gonna really negatively impact the experience of driving your car. It's gonna make you not want to drive it. I'm sure some of you have had some really droney exhausts in the past. I know I have, and you know that they can break your nerves after a while. Might sound great on the outside or bouncing off of the inside of a tunnel, but if there's a way that we can get that kind of sound and avoid the drone, I'm sure most people would go out of their way to do that. I know I would.Now, Borla also says that this exhaust pairs nicely with a set of long tube headers. So if you're looking to make that upgrade or if you've already done it, this is gonna be an excellent choice for you.As far as construction goes, again, I have to stress that this is a really high-quality system. Borla makes all of their exhausts out of T304 stainless steel, so you're gonna get the best corrosion and rust resistance you can on an exhaust. And as you can see, it's just really nice. It's a beautiful piece of kit. All the piping is 3-inch mandrel bend tubing up to the mufflers and there are no wrinkles or creases in the metal here, which means that all those exhaust gases are gonna flow nice and smoothly through which is gonna allow your engine to breathe better than stock, and it's also gonna reduce back pressure. And the whole system is capped off by these bright polished 4-inch chrome exhaust tips. So it's a really nice visual update as well.You might have noticed too that these are staggered, like your factory dual tips. So it's gonna keep things looking pretty similar but not entirely the same as stock. Those of you who know Camaros, if you spot this, you'll know something's going on, which that is kind of in keeping with most of Borla's other offerings.From an aesthetics perspective, their systems do tend to err more so on the side of subtlety than others, but I don't think that's a bad thing here. These are double wall rolled slash cut tips and of course they have that nice Borla logo stamp on the top here. And you probably already picked out, they come attached to the muffler right out of the box, so there's no need to mess around with adjustments, just get these bolted up and you're ready to go. Now as far as any Borla's system or any of this quality, really, it does not come cheap. This one is gonna run you around $2,700 and that does put it towards the upper end of the category when it comes to exhausts for the Camaro.Now there are a few more expensive options out there that have similar construction but not necessarily all the same features. And of course there are a lot of less expensive options that aren't gonna match up in sound or construction. So when you look at it from that perspective, I genuinely think that you're getting a good value for your money here. This is again, a super high quality system and if you don't want to compromise with your exhaust, this has gotta be the one you go for.Now as far as installation goes, like most exhausts, this one's gonna get a two out of three on a difficulty meter and it should take you around three hours to get it all done. All the clamps and hardware that you need are included in the box, but since the stock system on the Camaro SS is not a bolt-on setup, you are gonna need to make a couple of cuts. However, these are very easy to do and you get instructions on how to measure it out right there in the box.You're also gonna have to unbolt your active exhaust valve, but once that's done, this new system is gonna bolt right in and utilize all of your original exhaust hangers. And again, all the hardware that you need is included in the box as well. If you've done an exhaust in your driveway before, you know it can be a bit of a fiddly process, mostly because of the lack of space, since most of us don't have a lift out in our driveway. And even with the cutting here too, this is still something that you can do at home. And to show you just how to get this installed, let's head over to our install bay right now.Man: Tools required for this install include an impact gun, an electric ratchet, a hand ratchet, an exhaust hanger remover tool, a pry bar, tape measure, pair of safety glasses, a marker, a 5/16 ratcheting wrench, a 3/8 to 1/4-inch adapter, 7,13 and 15-millimeter sockets, couple of zip ties, a Sawzall and a grinder.What's up, guys? Today we're gonna be installing an exhaust on our Camaro. So let's get started. So our first step to removing our exhaust is gonna be to disconnect our valves. Now these are gonna be found on the outside of each side tip, so we'll get the harness, press the tab and disconnect them. So now our first step's gonna be to disconnect the wiring harness to our valve controller. So to do that, we're gonna remove these two 7-millimeter bolts to clear up some access. We're gonna have to take these out later on eventually because we're gonna have to slide our exhaust back this way and the valves are gonna slide under this.So, I'll get a 7-millimeter socket to get these off. Then we can push that back out of the way and then reach in there and disconnect our wire harness. And then we'll do that same thing on the other side. So the factory exhaust system has six hangers. We have two here, two here, and then two by our tips. So we're gonna remove the inner four here, that way we can still have our two hangers in the back holding our exhaust up while we disconnect our flanges up front. So, we can get the two on our passenger side first. So, I'll grab an exhaust hanger remover tool and pop off these isolators. And then on this one, the hanger on our pipe is a little longer than the one from our chassis, so we'll pop off our top isolator and then we can pop it off at the bottom and slide it back on the top.Now we can do the same thing on our driver's side.Now our next step is to remove our brace here, we have five 13-millimeter bolts holding that in. So I'll get a 13-millimeter socket on an impact gun to get these off. Now our next step's gonna be to disconnect our O2 sensors on both sides. Now you can do this either by unscrewing the O2 sensor or simply just unplugging the harness. We're gonna unplug the harness. So there's a white tab that you're gonna push up and then push in and then it'll separate our connector. So we'll take our white tab, push up on it, and then we can press down and slide our connector out. Now this side's gonna be the same thing, it's just a little deeper in there. Hold back on that tab and then disconnect our connector.So now we can work on our two flanges, we'll get those disconnected with a 15-millimeter socket. We've got a pole jack here to hold the exhaust in place so it doesn't drop down once we disconnect it. And then once we have our two flanges disconnected, we'll grab a buddy to help us pull the whole exhaust out of the car.So now on this side we don't have much clearance, so I'm gonna get a 15-millimeter socket with a ratchet on this side and then we can use our impact gun on this side. So I've got some penetrating lubricant I sprayed on here just to make it a little bit easier to get these off.Now on this side we can use a 15-millimeter socket on an impact gun to loosen this clamp. So, now I have a pole jack set up underneath our muffler to keep it in place, and then we're gonna be removing the two bolts on our hanger on both sides to release the muffler. So, now we can take a 15-millimeter socket on a ratchet to get our two nuts off. And then we'll do that same thing on the other side. So, now would be a good time to grab yourself a buddy and you can take one end while your buddy takes the other, and then we'll just simply slide it out and remove it from the car.So, now with the exhaust removed from our car, we can take our valves off. Now we'll be using a 5/16-inch ratcheting wrench to remove this. And then we can repeat that same process on the other side. And now we can remove our final two hangers on our stock exhaust using an exhaust hanger remover tool.Now before we get down to the install, it's gonna be important to note that you're not gonna be able to retain your factory valves with this kit, so we're gonna have to plug in our actuator, that way we don't get a Check Engine light. And then we can zip tie it up out of the way. We have a nice harness right up here so we can zip tie it to that harness. We'll just have to make sure that we don't zip tie it over the silver piece because this will still spin depending on the mode that you're in.So, I've bent back our heat shield to give us some more access up here. So, we'll take the wire for our valve actuator, plug that in, and then we'll push that tab down. And now I have a couple zip ties put together, so we can go up over our harness and we'll grab our actuator, making sure to stay away from that silver part that spins, and then we can do that same thing on the other side. So, now we'll just bring our heat shield back and reinstall our two 7-millimeter screws. And then we can take our 7-millimeter socket to tighten those down.So, now with our heat shield reinstalled on this side, we can repeat that same process on the other side, making sure to keep our actuators away from any moving parts or anything that can get hot.So, now for this kit, you're gonna have to cut your factory exhaust. So we're gonna need on the driver's side 1.7 inches of straight pipe, and on the passenger side 2.1 inches of straight pipe. So, it'll be a good time to grab your tape measure and your marker and we can measure out where our cuts will be made. So, now we're gonna start on our passenger side. So, once again, we want 2.1 inches of straight pipe. So, instead of measuring from the weld here, we're gonna come out to about right here where our pipe straightens out. Okay, I'll tape measure down there and then we can mark right around 2.1 inches here.Now on our driver's side, we need 1.7 inches of straight pipe. So, it comes out pretty straight right here behind the weld. So, we'll start our tape measure there and mark down 1.7 inches. So, now with our lines laid down for where we're gonna make our cuts, you can grab whatever cutting tool you'd like, we're gonna use a Sawzall and we can make our cuts.So, now once we have our cuts made, we can go ahead and come over to the grinder and clean up our edges. So, now with our cuts made and our edges cleaned up, we can reinstall our secondary cats. So, we'll get it on here, get our nuts back in place, tighten those down, and then we can reconnect our O2 sensors. And then we can take our 15-millimeter socket to tighten our nuts down. And then I'll get a normal hand ratchet on the other side, I don't have a lot of clearance.And then with our nuts tightened down, we can reconnect our O2 sensor and then we'll push that white clip back in to lock it into place. So, now on our driver's side, we can reconnect our O2 sensor, so we didn't end up having to take that out, and it'll click that white pin back into place on this side as well. Now on the other side we're gonna take our driver's side secondary cat, slide that over the edge, and then we can get a 15-millimeter socket on our clamp to tighten that down. So, now we can install our driver's side front pipe. So, we're gonna take a 2 3/4-inch clamp, we'll slide that over the edge here, then we can slide it into our secondary cat, and then we can slide our clamp into position, and we can tighten that down with a 15-millimeter socket.And now we can install our passenger side front pipe. So, we'll take another 2 3/4-inch clamp, slide it over the edge, and then lift our pipe up into place. And now once we have our front pipe and our clamp in position, we can take a 15-millimeter socket to tighten down our clamp. So, now we can take our X-pipe and we'll slide two 3-inch clamps over each side and then we can get this onto our front pipes. And then once we have our X-pipe in place, we'll just slide our clamps into position and tighten those down with that same 15-millimeter socket.So, now with our cuts made and our edges cleaned up, we can reinstall our secondary cats. So, we'll get it on here, get our nuts back in place, tighten those down, and then we can reconnect our O2 sensor. And then we can take our 15-millimeter socket to tighten our nuts down.We'll loosen that a little bit just so we can put even pressure on our flange. And then I'll get normal hand ratchet on the other side, I don't have a lot of clearance. And then with our nuts tightened down, we can reconnect our O2 sensor and then we'll push that white clip back in to lock it into place. So, now on our driver's side, we can reconnect our O2 sensor. So, we didn't end up having to take that out, and it'll click that white pin back into place on this side as well.So, now on the other side, we'll take our driver's side secondary cat, slide that over the edge, and then we can get a 15-millimeter socket on our clamp to tighten that down. So, now we can take our driver's side front pipe, it's gonna be labeled with an L, and the other side's gonna be labeled with an R, the left and right is if you're looking at it from the back of the car, the L's gonna be our driver's side, and then we'll take a 2.75-inch clamp, slide that over the edge, and then we can raise that up into our secondary cat, and then we'll just get our clamp lined up and tighten that down with a 15-millimeter socket.So, now we can take our passenger side front pipe, it's gonna be labeled with that R, and then we'll grab another 2 3/4-inch clamp, slide that right over the edge, and then raise it up into our secondary cat. And then we can just slide our clamp into position. We'll take that 15-millimeter socket to tighten down our clamp. So, now we can install our resonator pipe, so we're gonna take two of our 3-inch clamps and slide those over our front pipes, and then we can raise our resonator pipe up into place. And then we can grab our clamps and slide those into position and tighten those down with our 15-millimeter socket. And then we'll do the same thing on the other side.So, next we'll be installing our X-pipe, so we'll take two more of our 3-inch clamps and slide them over our resonator pipe, and then we can raise our X-pipe up. Now the pipes coming off of our resonator were a little too close together, so I just took a pry bar just to separate them just a little bit so that we could slide our X-pipe over.So, now we'll install our hangers into our isolators. And now we can grab our two 3-inch clamps, slide those into position and tighten them down with a 15-millimeter socket. And then we'll do the same thing with our other clamp and our 15-millimeter socket. So, now we can take another 3-inch clamp and slide that over our X-pipe, and then we'll take our driver's side muffler. Once again, this is gonna be the one with the L on it, and we'll slide it into our X-pipe. And then we can slide our hanger into our isolator. Now we can reinstall our hanger bracket, so we're gonna slide our isolator over this post on our exhaust and then line it up with the two studs. And then we'll reinstall our two factory 15-millimeter nuts. And then we can take our 15-millimeter socket to tighten those nuts down.And now we can grab our clamp, slide that into position, and then tighten it down with our 15-millimeter socket. And now we'll repeat that same process on the other side. And now we can reinstall our brace using our factory 13-millimeter bolts, and then we'll take a 13-millimeter socket to tighten that down. And we'll just make sure all of our bolt holes are centered first.So that'll wrap up this review and install of the Borla ATAK Cat-Back exhaust with polished tips for your '16 and newer Camaro SS Coupe with NPP dual mode or quad exhausts. Thank you for watching. And remember, for all things Camaro, keep it right here at americanmuscle.com.
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Features, Description, Reviews, Q&A, Specs & Installation
|Exhaust System Type||Cat-Back System|
|Exhaust System Material||Stainless Steel|
|Exhaust System Tip Finish||Chrome, Polished|
|Exhaust System Tubing Diameter||3.00 Inch|
Loud Aggressive Exhaust Note. Add a touch of Borla excellence to your Chevrolet Camaro with an "ATAK" Cat-Back exhaust system. Featuring acoustically tuned ATAK mufflers for a loud aggressive tone, this Cat-Back includes an X-Pipe cross over that adds a crisp, raspy race car growl to the sound of your Camaro's exhaust. Together this combination will be sure to be heard for miles around.
Increases Power and Performance. Borla's ATAK Cat-Back Exhaust will not only wake up your neighborhood, but it will also wake up your Camaro's engine as well. By upgrading the restrictive factory piping to ultra smooth mandrel-bent tubing, along with high flow straight-through ATAK mufflers, you will significantly increase your Camaro's exhaust flow. As a result of this increased exhaust flow you will see a dramatic improvement in horse power, torque and engine performance.
ATAK Technology. The included mufflers were engineered using Borla's ATAK (Acoustically-Tuned Applied Kinetics) technology. Delivering the highest dB (decibel) levels possible for a street legal muffler, ATAK mufflers are tuned like a graphic equalizer to shape and focus sound waves for optimum high-volume output, all while avoiding distortion and retaining clarity of sound. ATAK mufflers are ideal for those hardcore muscle car enthusiasts who prefer to hear the sound of their exhaust over the sound of their stereos.
Premium Stainless Steel Construction. Borla manufactures their exhaust systems from premium 304 stainless steel tubing for superior strength and enduring corrosion resistance. Featuring ultra smooth mandrel bent 3-inch diameter piping and straight-through ATAK mufflers, this Borla Cat-Back will significantly out flow your Camaro's original factory exhaust system. This system also includes a pair of quad 4-inch polished T-304 stainless steel exhaust tips for impressive good looks.
Cut and Clamp Installation. The installation of this Borla Cat-Back Exhaust system will require cutting and removing the stock factory piping. The new Cat-Back system will install in place of the old. Installation of this Borla Cat-Back can be completed in about two to three hours. This Cat-Back reuses the existing factory hangers for installation. Clamps and instructions are provided.
Application. This Borla ATAK Cat-Back Exhaust with Polished Tips is designed to fit 2016-2023 Chevrolet Camaro SS Coupe models equipped with NPP Dual Mode Exhaust or Quad Exhaust.
Application Note. Please note that this Cat-Back Exhaust does NOT include AFM valves or NPP valves you will need to reuse your stock originals.
CA Residents: WARNING: Cancer and Reproductive Harm - www.P65Warnings.ca.gov
(approx) 3 Hours
Light to Moderate mechanical skill required.
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