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Stage 2 Central Front Splitter; Carbon Fiber (14-19 Corvette C7)

Item CV6537
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      Product Videos

      Justin: Hey, everybody. I'm Justin with americanmuscle.com. And today, we're taking a closer look at and walking you through the install of the Stage 2 Central Front Splitter in Carbon Fiber, available for all 2014 through 2019 Corvettes. Now, this is gonna be a great option for all C7 owners out there looking to add some more muscle to the front end, and help emulate that awesome Z06 styling, with the added benefit, in this case, of the carbon fiber look and construction.So, in talking features here, I think the biggest will be the dramatic improvement in appearance for your C7, along with the lightweight construction of the carbon fiber build, of course, which also is gonna add some styling points in the process. Now, I think we can all agree the C7 was a great-looking evolution from the C6. However, in stock form, the front end of the more basic Stingray looked a bit unfinished without the addition of any factory splitter. And that's where the Stage 2 splitter comes into the picture. By adding this option, it's going to give your C7 a bit of that Z06 styling, which is a subtle upgrade over stock, but without getting too wild, like a ZR1 or a Z07 package splitter might otherwise deliver. Now, the site will mention things like enhanced aero and reduced front-end lift at speed, but I feel like most C7 owners out there probably are gonna be more interested in this splitter from an appearance standpoint more than anything else.Construction will certainly be another highlight here as well, as this particular option, again, made from carbon fiber. Carbon obviously great because, yes, it's going to combine excellent strength, but at the same time, will also be very lightweight, which I can attest this splitter does check both of those boxes. Now, finally, and maybe most importantly here, gang, is the awesome appearance that that exposed carbon fiber delivers. This particular option has been given a gloss clear, that has been buffed to a nice, beautiful shine, which, again, certainly does help increase the appearance of your C7's front end.Now, the only downside to carbon fiber is the price. Now, coming in right around that low $500 price point, this option will certainly be on the higher end of the pricing spectrum when compared to a standard ABS plastic option that you might find here on the site. In fact, there is a near-identical version of this splitter, also from Stage 2, that is going to deliver just a matte black plastic build instead of carbon fiber, and you can actually grab that for about 300 bucks less than the carbon option. So, if the carbon fiber is not important to you, you just wanted to go with something a little bit more basic, but still kind of nail that Z06 vibe, you can certainly check that and other options out here on the site as well.Now, moving into the installation, and site's gonna call this a strong 1 out of 3 wrenches on the difficulty meter, taking you at least an hour to complete from start to finish. Now, one thing I will point out here, guys, is that all of the holes are gonna be in the factory location. That, of course, will make the job just a little bit easier in the garage or driveway. To give you a better idea of how this one will go down at home, check out this detailed walkthrough and tool breakdown from an AM customer.Man 1: First of all, let's take a look at the tools that we're gonna need to remove our old splitter, as well as install the new one. You're gonna need a 7-millimeter socket. You've got a series of 12 screws, with 7-millimeter heads on them, underneath the front of the car, that need to be removed. You're gonna need some jacking pucks if you don't have access to a car lift. If you don't have a set of these and you own a C7 Corvette, buy a set. They're not that expensive. This certainly won't be the last time you use them. There's no natural space under the Corvette to place a floor jack easily, where you're not gonna damage something. These give you a safe lifting point to use. You're also gonna need a jack and some jack stands, or ramps, if you don't have access to a lift. Of course, we'll go through that process a little bit later. Safety glasses, for sure. You're gonna be drilling, potentially grinding, and at the very least, you're gonna be looking up underneath the car. A lot of dirt, dust, debris can fall into your eyes. You certainly wanna protect your eyes as best as possible.You're gonna need a power drill and/or die grinder. So, we've got, if you have a wide-body Corvette that has an existing splitter on it, you're going to have a series of 10 factory GM rivets, that look like these guys right here, along the front, holding that in place. You're gonna have to drill the rivet heads out, or grind the rivet heads out, to remove the old rivets, so you can get your old splitter off. Also, we've got some carbide burrs here. Optional, but these are very handy to use if our bolt holes don't line up perfectly on the new splitter. We can make marks of where we need to remove material, and go in with a bit, and elongate our holes accordingly, so everything fits just fine. If you don't have a Corvette that came with a splitter in the front, so, a standard Stingray, not one of the wide-body versions, then you are going to need a way to fasten the front of that splitter underneath your front fascia. Two different ways to do that. You can use self-tapping screws. You're gonna need 10 of those, and you'll put them through the 10 front holes in the splitter, up through the plastic of your front end. So, of course, you'll need those and a screwdriver. Or the other method that you can use is like GM does on the wide-body cars that have a splitter, is these GM body rivets. This is a 3/16 of an inch shank on here, with a 5/8 head on it. This is what they call an exploding style rivet. It has three legs that pop out. It does a very, very good job of eliminating pull-through. You can source these through General Motors or online. Online, they're typically cheaper and easier to find, but wherever you get them, this is what you need, and of course, a rivet tool for those.You're also gonna need some double-sided heavy-strength molding tape. 3M is certainly suggested. The instructions stated that it doesn't come with it, although my box did have some in there. I used what they provided. But if you find that your kit did not come with any, this is what you need. So, some super-strength molding tape from 3M. This stuff is incredibly heavy-duty. It's like the super glue of tape. So, be very careful everything lines up before you stick it together, because it's very hard to pull back apart. And of course, a means of cutting that once you get it onto the splitter. Also, depending on how you remove your rivets, if you do it like I do, you're probably gonna wanna have a hammer and a chisel as well. I like to grind the head of the rivet down to where it almost pops off, and then get it on the side with a chisel and a hammer, pop the head the rest of the way off, and then push it through the backside. We'll do that underneath the car in a bit.Some sort of marking device is gonna be very handy to mark your new splitter, to mark on those holes on the splitter of where you may need to go back and elongate, grind them out just a little bit, to line everything up perfectly with your particular vehicle. So, a paint marker or a grease pen's a good thing to have. Microfiber cloth and some sort of cleaner. I like isopropyl alcohol. Leaves a very good surface that is excellent for adhesion with this tape. But this is for the purpose of cleaning off the bottom of our car once we remove the original splitter, if equipped, or prepping the underside of your car for the installation of the new one, if you didn't have a splitter on it. And of course, the instructions.Okay. Now that we've got the car up off the ground, and have the chance to get under the front and work on it, I wanna take a look at the existing fasteners that we've got. Here's a combination on this particular model of 7-millimeter head screws, as well as a number of rivets that are in here as well. Depending on what model of car you have, and what spoiler originally came on it, if you have one, it may vary a bit, but we're gonna have to drill these additional rivets out. Looks like we've got 10 of them.Okay. Next, we're gonna be removing the existing splitter off of this car. Your car may or may not have one, depending on the trim package that you've got. Again, this is a 2017 Grand Sport. It has the base aero package on this one, so we have the flexible front splitter on this. It's not the Stage 2. It's a Stage 1 setup. We've got a combination here of 7-millimeter screws, as well as 10 rivets that are in place underneath. So we're gonna have to drill the rivets, as well as remove the screws. To get the rivets out, you are gonna need a drill, of course. Be very careful when you're drilling these. Watch what the head of the rivet is doing. If the drill bites in and starts spinning the head of the rivet, it's going to start melting, and burying itself through the plastic of your existing splitter. Probably not doing anything great to the backside of the inside of your front fascia as well. So, use a slightly larger drill bit may help. Sometimes the smaller ones get in there and grab a little easier than the larger ones. Again, we're just trying to drill enough of the head off so that the head pops off without going all the way through.All right. So, now that we've got the car up off the ground and we have enough room under here to work to get our old splitter off, comes what is arguably the most challenging part of the install, getting the old one off, if you have one installed from the factory. We've got a combination, potentially, of two different things holding it on. We've got 10 7-millimeter head machine screws here, which are pretty easy to get out. The challenge comes with these GM body rivets that are used on a lot of the splitters on these cars. They are an exploding type, so when you install these rivets, rather than expanding like a mushroom head and also swelling up inside the hole itself that you put the rivet through, it pulls three fingers out, and expand on the backside. So you essentially have a lot of protection against this pulling through, but because it doesn't actually expand in the hole itself where it goes through the material, it tends to spin very easily. The traditional way to get these rivets out is to try to drill them, but of course, the drill wants to bite in and start spinning the rivets. Gets to be a problem on this softer Stage 1 splitter style. It's pretty easy to get the rivet spinning enough where it gets hot enough to go through the plastic itself and melt a hole through it. If you're not worried about saving this, that may not be of concern to you, but we're gonna do our best on this one.We've already had one here that looks like it's been spun through, so we'll try on these others to get it out without doing too much damage. A couple different ways you can do it, of course, with the drill bit, the traditional way. If you've got some carbide burrs, also not a bad way to do. Part of the problem with these, though, is, particularly at higher speeds, keeping it centered on here. They tend to walk off and go flying sometimes. Again, not a lot of stuff you can damage under here, but it's a little bit of a trick to hold them in place sometimes. We're gonna go ahead and start by trying just using the drill method. If they start spinning on you, sometimes you can tilt the drill a little bit, and aid with that problem. So, see what we can get going here. This one's already spun. All right. I think we're probably gonna have to come back to that one in a minute. So, one technique on these is once you get a good bit of this drilled out, and these are fairly soft rivets, they're not plastic, but they are made out of aluminum, a lot of times, you can get a chisel on the side of the rivet here, pop it with a chisel, and break the head off once you've got enough of it drilled out. So, let's try that on one of these. All right. We have got this one mostly separated, and you can see the head has come off the rivet. We'll get the rest of it out once we get the splitter off. We'll drive these up through the other side.All right. Two down. Starting to spin a bit. All right. That one we got out at an angle, without having to use the chisel. Just about got this guy. Yep. This one got a little deep and started to spin, and it melted itself down in a bit. Definitely the hardest part about getting these out is trying to keep them from spinning. One of the things you might want to try also is if we can get behind and underneath this with something slid under, like a piece of trim stick, we might be able to put enough friction on the back of this to keep it from spinning as easily. All right. Definitely helped a little bit with the spinning, but it's such a soft plastic that it's still biting down into it. It spun enough we may have no choice now but to try to drill it the rest of the way out. And there it is. All right. One more. And there we are.Okay. Now that we've got the rivets out of the way, we can take our 10 7-millimeter machine screws out here. All right. We've got the two out at the ends that I left, just to hold it in place in the meantime. All right. Should be able to remove it at this point. And there you are. Next step is going to be clean off the surface underneath the existing bumper, if you had a spoiler on, or a splitter on, rather, beforehand, and to knock the rest of the rivets back through the holes the other way. We've got the splitter out of the way. We can go ahead and clean off the underside of the front fascia, and push these rivets back through the other side. I'm gonna be using some isopropyl alcohol, simply because we've got some double-sided tape that we're gonna use to help hold the new splitter in place. And not only will this clean, but it'll leave a good surface for adhesion, for that double-sided tape when we put it on.So, now that we've got the factory splitter off, we can take a look and compare the holes and the mounting methods between the replacement splitter and the original. You see that the Stage 2 splitter arrived with holes drilled in the same positions as the original factory splitter, which will allow us to reuse the 10 screws with the 7-millimeter heads that affixed the splitter along rear edge of it here. And then, again, if you had a factory splitter on your car, you had the GM body rivets that were holding the front of it on, so, 10 screws in the back, and about 10 rivets down the front. This is not a standard rivet. They do not expand into a mushroom-style head back here. This is often called an exploding rivet, or body rivet. If you take a look at the way these deform, You can see that what you actually end up with is three mushroom legs on here, that hold themselves on the backside of your body panel. So, it's a little bit different design than a standard rivet. This is what you wanna get. These are available through the GM dealer. They're not particularly cheap that way. Best option is usually to get them through online retailers. What you're looking for is a triple-expanding or exploding-body-style rivet like this. The head on this is five eighths of an inch, and the diameter of the rivet section that goes through the hole is three sixteenths of an inch. A lot easier to source these aftermarket, and a lot cheaper than GM, but [inaudible 00:18:33] work, of course.And again, these are going to go through the front 10 holes if you want to re-affix the splitter the way the factory did it. If you have a car, perhaps a Stingray, or something that did not have an original factory splitter on it like this one, then you shouldn't have any holes where these front ones go. So, in order to fix it that way, you use a combination of the two-sided adhesive tape that's provided, and we'll put a strip from here, in between the front and rear bolt holes, as well as one on the other side, to match. And for the front, you use self-tapping screws, that are gonna hold themselves through your factory fascia on that. If you wanted to, I suppose you could drill holes, and use body rivets, like the factory splitter-equipped cars as well, but the instruction manual suggests the use of the self-tapping screws for that.The next step is we're gonna install the double-sided tape here, per the instructions. Now, the tape is gonna fit in between the rear and front bolt holes...well, rivet holes and bolt holes. About like so. Make sure that you've got it properly adhered to the splitter itself. But one of the things that the instructions recommend is that after installation of the splitter, you don't wash your car for 24 hours. I would imagine that a big portion of the reason that they don't want you to do that is to allow this double-sided adhesive to set up properly. All right. And before we place it on the car, of course, we'll peel a little bit loose on the ends here, so that we have something to pull off, but we certainly don't want to pull all of the backside off of this before we try to install it. This stuff is incredibly sticky, as it should be, and it's pretty hard to pull it off once it sticks to something, so we wanna make sure that we've got the splitter properly aligned under the car before we start putting screws and bolts in, and affix it to the underside of the car.Now that we've got the bottom of the front of the car cleaned off, we've removed all the pieces from the old rivets, we've applied the double-sided tape to our new splitter, it's time to test fit it. You definitely do not wanna pull the backing off the other side of the double-sided tape until you've had a good chance to test fit this. Once this stuff sticks to the bottom of the car, it's very hard to peel back off. So, again, until you confirm that all the bolt holes are in the right place, and everything fits, do not pull that off. So, we've got the center of the splitter supported here, or if you have a helper, you can certainly have them hold it for you as well. We're only going to mount the bolts in the very ends, the outer two bolts that hold the splitter in place, and then we'll support the center of it. Once we do that, we'll get a chance to take a look and evaluate the fit of the splitter, as well as the positions of the holes, to see if we might need to enlarge or slot anything. You don't wanna tighten the bolt all the way up. You just want it in there enough to hold it in place. We're gonna repeat the exact same thing on the other side of the vehicle as well. Only the two outer bolts at first.First thing we wanna check is to make sure that we are able to have the splitter positioned back far enough to sit where it needs to. Now, if you have a wide-body Corvette, so, a ZR1, Z06, or a Grand Sport, like this one, you're gonna have these additional fender moldings out here on the front. And if you look, we do have a recessed area here, where the trailing edge of the factory splitter, whether it be the flexible one or the Stage 2, like this one, is gonna nest back in there. So, the main thing you wanna do is make sure that you have enough bolt hole clearance here that you can slide this all the way back with the screw in, so that it nests up against this like it should. If you have a Stingray, and you don't have the wheel arch moldings, then leave it at your own discretion. And if it lines up, and all the bolt holes look fine, and this trailing edge sits where you like it, you don't have to worry about it. But if you do have these moldings, you're certainly gonna wanna be able to set it back and nest it against it like it should be, particularly if you're gonna install some Stage 2.5 or 3-style winglets on the outside here, you're gonna have to have it back as far as it is, just so everything lines up. We'll do the same thing on the other side as well.So, taking a look again at my alignment here with the wheel arch molding and my gaps, I am happy with the way it is, so I'm gonna go ahead and take the slack out of this one, tighten it up hand-tight. All right. So, now that we've got this held in place, I'm gonna go to the other side of the car and repeat the same process. That's gonna hold our splitter in place, and then it'll give us a chance to go back under the car and evaluate that the bolt holes are where they need to be, or see if maybe we need to make a couple adjustments to them. Okay. Now we've finished repeating that operation on the passenger side of the vehicle. Again, we have just the two outermost 7-millimeter head bolts holding the outboard tabs of the splitter in place. So, we're, again, taking a look for the fit, making sure we've got it not only centered on the vehicle, but that it is sitting back as far as we want it to. More critical, probably, on a wide-body car, like this one is on the Grand Sport, we wanna make sure it fits properly with our wheel arch molding. I'm happy with the gap that we can get here. Other side looks pretty good. I've got about a quarter inch or so from here to the edge. It's even on both sides. I'm now gonna go around to the front of the car, take a look to make sure it's centered and everything looks good there, and if it does, we can continue, so...Take a look here at the middle. Of course, it goes without saying, but if you don't have a helper, you want to have some way of supporting the center that's never let it hang just by those rear tabs. You'll almost certainly break them off. So, I lift this up and I take a look at my center point on the splitter, and evaluate that along with where the center point of the car is. Looks like we've got a pretty good match here. I'm happy with that. Looks to be pretty even all the way around. So, the next thing that we're going to do is get back under the car, under the splitter. We're gonna evaluate where our bolt holes are. If they all line up, great. Then we can peel our tape, and start bolting things up. But because of production tolerances, both on the vehicle, as well as on the splitter, there may be a few that don't line up perfectly, and we might have to slot or enlarge a few of those holes. So we'll take a look real quick under the car, to get an idea of how well the stuff's lining up, and if there's anything else we need to do before we peel the tape and bolt and rivet it up in place permanently.Okay. So, now we're back under the front of the vehicle. We're gonna take a look and evaluate the position of the bolt holes, as well as our rivet holes. If you have a car that had an existing splitter on it, and you took it off to put this one on, you're gonna have some holes in there for these rivet holes already. We wanna make sure those line up with the existing. If you have a Stingray, or a vehicle that did not have a splitter on the front to begin with, then you're simply gonna use these front 10 holes for the self-tapping screws, to go through your front fascia and hold it in place. This is a Grand Sport, so it had the factory splitter to begin with, so we do have a set of holes there, and I don't wanna re-drill those holes, so we're gonna make note of how far we need to potentially slot or re-drill these holes here to make sure everything lines up. I'm gonna use a grease pencil for that. A few different ways you could do it. You could put a piece of masking tape on here and use a Sharpie or a pen, of course. A lot of different ways, but again, we're just gonna try to get an idea of what we need to do with our holes here. Looks like you get pretty decent alignment on a good number of them. Some of them are off a bit. Most of them, I've just gotta massage a little bit. That one looks good. This one here is gonna need a little bit of work.Now, the nice thing is, both your 7-millimeter head screws as well as your rivets have some pretty big heads on them. So, you can enlarge these bolt holes a pretty decent amount, and not have to worry about not having enough area to grip or pull through or anything along those lines. So, I've got this marked now. Next thing we're gonna do is take the splitter back off, and take a carbide or drill bit to it, enlarge and slot these the way we need to to get the fit that we're looking for, and then we'll be able to permanently install it afterwards.So, we've removed the splitter, now that we've got a chance to evaluate the fit, and what we might need to do to some of the bolt hole locations. And there's quite a few of them on here that we need to massage just a little bit. Again, production variances between car to car, as well as splitter to splitter, means that more often than not, you may have a few holes that you might need to make a little bit larger or move. Probably gonna be more of an issue on a car like this, that came with a wide-body kit, so you have those front factory wheel arches that we're, again, trying to get a good fit with the trailing edge of the outboard part of the splitter nested in there. On a Stingray, without those, if you don't have the wheel arches, all yours may line up, and you may be perfectly happy with where it sits, but I'm a little particular, and I'm probably gonna install some winglets later, on the outboard edges of this, so I wanna make sure it's exactly where it needs to be so everything fits at that point.So, you could use a die grinder, a Dremel tool, drill bits, carbides, rat-tail file, anything that you can use to safely enlarge these holes. I particularly personally like a carbide. It's a good, clean cut. I'm not worried about it grabbing in the carbon fiber and making any cracks, like a, you know, might be a case with a drill bit or a file, because you're constantly running that back and forth through here with the file. Don't wanna take any chances of messing the splitter up. But again, any one of those methods would probably work. I just personally wanna use a carbide on this. So, I'm gonna take a look at the holes that I, or the markings around the holes, and I'm gonna enlarge these out to those...Okay. We've now finished the process of marking and modifying our bolt holes as needed, so that we get it to line up with the bottom of this particular car. We're going to reinstall it just as we did earlier, for a test fit. We wanna make sure that the center is adequately supported as you feed the sides in, or get a helper if you got one. And just as earlier, we'll start by installing our two outboard screws here. And of course, we also wanna put one back in the center. Now, if you've done a good job of marking and modifying your bolt holes, you should be able to put it in just about any one of those original holes and it should work. So, just as before, we're gonna go back under the car [inaudible 00:32:13] get these snugged up just a little bit, and make sure that we're re-centered and back where we want it, and we'll re-evaluate the position of all our holes. If everything lines up, we'll start putting those 7-millimeter head screws back along the back portion, and the rivets along the front, or self-tapping screws if you have a Stingray, and you do not have any real holes. You can certainly use the factory rivets as well if you prefer to do it that way.We've now completed the enlarging of the necessary holes to get everything to line up with the underside of this particular vehicle. Place the splitter back on the front, again, holding it in place with two outboard 7-millimeter head screws. I've got one here in the center, just loose as well, and I've re-verified that I am centered on the point of the front end here. It's in the middle. I've got the fit that I want on the trailing edges back there on my splitter, where it meets my wheel arch moldings. Happy with the fit, so now I'm gonna take a look again at my bolt holes, and see if we're lining up this time. Okay. Everything looks like we're good to go. Now, remember, we still have double-sided tape on here, and we've gotta pull the backing off of it. Don't forget that before you start putting rivets back in. Screws are easy to take out. Rivets not so much. So, I'm going to go ahead and take my placeholder screws out of here, that I had to keep the front end from hanging down too much. It'll let it sag just a bit, and see if I can peel off my double-sided tape backing. Gonna be a little tricky. All right. There's one side. And two.So, the next part you're gonna wanna do is put your screws back in place. You're gonna wanna do the screws before the rivets, but you don't wanna snug them up all the way just yet. Let's make sure they all fit, and get them all up in there. All right. So, there are 12 screws in total, counting the 2 on the outboard. I believe I may have said 10 earlier. Apologize for that. If I did, I was getting that confused with the number of rivets. So, 12 screws, 10 rivets. All right. So, we've now got all of our screws back in. Looks like the rivet holes are gonna line up just fine, but, again, I prefer to put the screws in and leave them just a little bit loose before we do the rivets, just in case it's off just a hair. Even with the double-sided tape, we may still be able to fudge these around just a bit, if the rivet holes aren't lining up 100% perfectly. I'm gonna test fit all the rivets first. And again, if you're on a car that did not originally have a factory-equipped splitter, you're not gonna have these rivet holes, so you're gonna use self-tapping screws, through the holes in the splitter, up into your front fascia, or if you prefer, you can drill a three sixteenths of an inch hole, and you can use these rivets that we talked about earlier, and use the factory GM body rivets.So, I've now verified all 10 of these rivet holes. I can pass a rivet through. They fit just fine. I'm gonna start installing my rivets, but only after I take one more look, just to make 100% sure that the splitter's lined up exactly how I want it. Taking a look at the center. Gonna go around and take a look at the sides as well. Okay, I'm happy. Looks like we're aligned where we need to be, so we can go ahead and start installing our rivets. All right. That is all of our rivets. Now we're gonna go around and hand-tighten all of our 7-millimeter head screws here. Again, it's your car, it's your preference. Personally, any time I'm working on any body work stuff like this, particularly with plastics or carbon fiber, I don't like to use any kind of power tool to reinstall. I'm okay with taking it apart with one, but I definitely wanna feel, and listen, and go at my own pace, to make sure nothing's binding, cracking, stripping. So, it's your life, your world. But particularly on a nice vehicle and nice carbon fiber piece like this, always good to err on the side of caution. All right. There we go.Justin: So, wrapping this one up, guys, again, if you are looking to add a bit of that Z06 muscle to the front end of your C7 Vette at home, along with the added bling of carbon fiber, then be sure to check out the Stage 2 Splitter, right here at americanmuscle.com.

      Product Information

      Features, Description, Reviews, Q&A, Specs & Installation

      Features

      • Stage 2 Central Front Splitter
      • Black Carbon Fiber Finish
      • Stage 2 Part
      • Carbon Fiber Construction
      • Enhanced Aerodynamics
      • Reduced Front End Lift
      • Lightweight
      • Paintable
      • Fits 2014 – 2019 Chevrolet Corvette C7 Models

      Description

      Improved Aerodynamics. Made for the Chevrolet Corvette C7, this Stage 2 Central Front Splitter promises enhanced aerodynamics for your vehicle by providing front downforce during high speeds that also improve your ride’s handling.

      Installation. Putting this Stage 2 Central Front Splitter on your ride is easy and requires no drilling.

      Application. This Stage 2 Central Front Splitter fits 2014 – 2019 Chevrolet Corvette C7 models.

      Fitment:

      • 2014 Chevrolet Corvette
      • 2015 Chevrolet Corvette
      • 2016 Chevrolet Corvette
      • 2017 Chevrolet Corvette
      • 2018 Chevrolet Corvette
      • 2019 Chevrolet Corvette

      CA Residents: WARNING: Cancer and Reproductive Harm - www.P65Warnings.ca.gov

      Installation & What's in the Box

      Installation Info

      What's in the Box

      • (1) Front Splitter
      5.0

      Customer Reviews (1)

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          Questions & Answers

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