Disclaimer: This guide is not for the faint of heart. You are going to modify the complete suspension of your car and you will need to put some serious work onto it. If you haven’t access to the right tools you should not try this install. You should tight all the bolts firmly and strongly, no exceptions, so I will not repeat it everywhere, also I will not state on every bolt that you should use thread locker, put in every bolt you tight.
Time: I did work for 2 weekends for this install. I installed also the optional parts below. I will not clarify how to install these. Look the other guides on American muscle. At last I didn’t had any installation guide on hand and no tips/tricks, so I made plenty of pauses to check Internet for information. Never the less, expect at least one full weekend for this install.
Upgrade suggestions: If you invest into an Eibach pro-kit I suggest you add a little more money ( 500$) and grab the parts below:
- Ball joint kit
- Caster camber plates
Replacing these extra parts at the same time as the Eibach kit is easy, as you will have direct access to the parts. Adding those three will ensure you get the best performance from your new Eibach kit.
Section 1 – Preparing the car to work on the rear
1.1 – Engage the emergency brake and put transmission in gear.
1.2 – Unbolt a little the rear tire bolts. You will need a 23mm cross bar to do it. Don’t complete take off the bolts, just un-tight them.
1.2 – Use the wheel stoppers to block front wheels and lift the rear of the car with 2 jack stands, one on each side. I lift the car with 4 jack stands to be sure I had the best stability, so I didn’t need to block the front wheels. Because the car has rear propulsion it’s very important you block the front wheels if you only have 2 jack stands. Work in a very horizontal surface with very stable car. Failure to do so can result in an accident.
1.2 – Completely unbolt both rear wheels and remove the wheels. Set them aside.
1.3 – Open the trunk. First take out the trim over the spare tire. Then take out 4 small plastic fasteners, located on top, near the opening, and take the rear trim out. Finally left and right trims should pull out easily.
Section 2 – Removing the rear sway bar
2.1 – The support for the rear brake cable is bolted with the sway bar. Locate it and simply disconnect the cable from his support so that you don’t have it in the way.
2.2 – Unbolt the 4 bolts that keep the sway bar in place (2 on each side, red circles in the image below). Use a 12mm wrench for this. The metal support for the break cable will be free also. You can discard the stock bolts as they will not be used (besides stating otherwise in the instructions). If the bolts are too hard to unbolt heat them up a little (be careful with the break cable).