Fuel Injector Clinic High-Z Impedance Fuel Injectors; 1000cc (99-04 Mustang Cobra; 05-23 Mustang GT; 15-22 Mustang GT350, GT500)

Video Review & Installation

Hey, guys. Today, we're gonna be taking a look at and installing a set of 1000cc Fuel Injector Clinic Fuel Injectors for 1986 to 2017 Mustangs. These are 1000cc saturated high-impedance fuel injectors. And they're really gonna be for anyone who needs more fuel, whether it be for a naturally aspirated build, a nitrous build or a boosted build. These are E85 compatible. And they're sold as a set of eight. They cost $700. And they're easy to get installed. I'll call it a two out of three wrenches in the difficulty meter. These are tested and rated at 43 and a half Psi with a 90 degree Fahrenheit fuel temperature. They also have a lifetime warranty on them. With all that being said, let's go ahead and get these installed on the car.For this install, I used a 3/8 drive cordless impact gun, a short extension, a 17-millimeter socket, but that might change depending on your specific strut tower brace hardware, a 10-millimeter socket. And you'll need a flat-head screwdriver. All right, guys, to start the install, we're gonna remove our strut tower brace. We are gonna leave the battery cable connected. You can remove it, if you want to. But you can sneak the strut tower brace out from underneath of it, without removing it. And your hardware size is gonna depend on what strut tower brace you have. We have 17-millimeter nuts on here. We'll go ahead. I'm gonna pull this plastic piece off. And I'm gonna remove this nut.All right. Now, you can lift off the strut tower brace. And now, we can lift the engine cover off. This is just gonna pop out of place. So now, we're gonna move all of the lines out of the way here. And these just slide off. Next, we're gonna get a 10-millimeter socket. And we're gonna undo the two nuts that are holding our bracket in place here. All right. We're gonna do the same thing on this side. We have one line to move, grab a 10-millimeter socket, undo these two nuts here. We'll pull our bracket off and then the foam underneath. Now, we're gonna disconnect the electrical connection on the injectors. After that, we're gonna unbolt the fuel rail. There are two 10-millimeter bolts on either side of the fuel rail that are holding it in place.So, right now, like I said, I'm gonna go ahead, disconnect each injector on this side. You'll squeeze the tab and then just pull back. And it will disconnect for you. We're gonna do the same thing on the other side. So we'll go ahead, disconnect our injectors, and then unbolt the fuel rail. You're gonna want to have a couple of rags handy because you can expect a little bit of fuel spill here. So, the way that this disconnect is you're gonna reach around the bottom here. There are two tabs on the blue plastic piece. You'll squeeze them together and push up. And once this releases, you'll be able to pull the black line back. So I'm gonna cover that with a rag now because like I said, we are expecting a little bit of a fuel spill here.At this point, we're disconnected. We have a little bit of gas spilling. But it's okay because we have our rags. So now we're gonna pull the fuel rail out, hopefully, with the Fuel Injector. Some Fuel Injectors may stay in the manifold. That's okay. Just know that what you're gonna do is you're just going to try to wiggle this out of place. And you'll feel each injector pop out of the manifold. I'm gonna keep a rag over this end though, just so we don't have any major fuel leaks. I'm gonna go around and disconnect the other side. So I'm hoping that the injectors actually stay in the fuel rail. So I'm actually reaching down and grabbing the injectors and helping to pull them out of the manifold so that they don't disconnect from the fuel rail.From here, I'm actually ready to lift everything out of the car. I'm just going to cover the open end of the fuel rails so we don't have any major fuel leaks. So, at this point, the first thing that I'm gonna check for is actually the O-rings on our Stock Injectors, I'm making sure that the Stock Injectors came out with all of the O-rings still intact. I wanna make sure none of the O-rings are stuck in the manifold at this point. So this right here is your O-ring. Like I said, you just wanna make sure that all the O-rings are still intact on your Stock Injectors. So the next step is actually gonna be to remove these clips right here that are holding your Stock Injectors in place. For that, we're gonna use a flat-head screwdriver. I am just going to wiggle the flat-head screwdriver behind the clip here and work it off of the fuel rail.Now, we're gonna pull the injectors out of the fuel rail. Once again, I'm gonna wrap each injector in a rag, just in case there's any fuel in there. And we're also gonna wanna make sure that each O-ring stays on the injector. And if not, we'll have to get it out of the fuel rail before we install our new injectors. So, I'm just grabbing the injector. And I'm, kind of, wiggling it out of place. And it'll pop out of the fuel rail. Check to make sure the O-rings on there. We're good to go. So, I'll move to the next one. All right, guys. So now, we're gonna grab our new injectors and actually get them in place before we move over to the other side.Now, it's not a huge deal, if you don't have the correct orientation. But I am just mindful of the orientation in which these Stock Injectors came out. And I'm putting the new injectors in the same orientation. So these are just gonna wiggle into place and sit right in the fuel rail. All right, now we'll grab our clips. And these are just gonna slide right back over the bottom of the injector and onto the fuel rail. So we'll go ahead and pull our Stock Injectors out to the other side. All right. So we'll wiggle our new injectors in place, once again just being mindful of the orientation.It's not the end of the world, if you don't have them in the correct orientation. You can always twist them once they're installed. And you guys can see they can fully rotate. It's a little bit harder once you have the clips in place though. So, that's why I just like to be mindful of it prior to getting the clips in place. All right. With the injectors in place, we'll grab our clips. And after this last clip is installed, we're actually ready to get these back in the car. All right. So we're gonna go ahead, get our fuel rail back in place here, get our injectors lined up right now. That's our main goal. Once they're all lined up, we can go ahead and press down to get the injector seated in the manifold. Kind of, like, the same feeling as you guys felt when you were putting the injectors in the fuel rail, you wanna feel them click into place.And we'll go ahead and do that on both sides. All right. And then we're gonna go ahead and reconnect our fuel line. So we'll pull the rags out of the way, move the lines out of the way, grab our fuel line. All right. So we'll push the black line back into place and then push the blue clip down. From here, we're going to reconnect our injectors. So we'll just take each plug and plug it right into place. And after we're done with that, we're gonna bolt back down the fuel rail. All right. So we'll drop our fuel rail bolts back into place, get it started by hand. And we'll tighten it. All right. So on the other side, we'll do the same thing. We'll plug in all of our injectors.Luckily, the harness is straightforward. And you can't really cross these over into the incorrect injector. From here, we'll grab our fuel rail bolts and then get those in place. Once again, we'll start by hand, just to make sure we're good to go on our threads. And then we'll take them down. All right. Now, we'll get our foam insulator and our bracket back in place, as well. So we're just gonna work this over fuel rail and wiggle it down into place. And I'll set the bracket back on top, tighten down the two 10-millimeter nuts, and then get our line back in place in the bracket. All right. So we're gonna do the same thing on the other side. We are going to move our lines out of the way, get our installation back over the fuel rail.All right. And if you guys get worried or concerned about accidentally switching sides on these installation pieces, you don't have to worry too much about it because Ford clearly labels which side's the left side, which side's the right side and which side goes towards the front and, of course, which side goes towards the rear. So you guys can see there's an L here, as well as an arrow pointing towards the front of the car. Once this is in place, we can go ahead. We'll lay this line down. And then we'll get our bracket for the left side in place, grab our 10-millimeter nuts, and tighten those down, and then get our lines back in place. At this point, we're ready to get our engine cover back in place. But one thing I wanna say before we really button up the install is that it's always a good idea to just get in the car, cycle through the ignition.You don't even necessarily have to start the car. But if you cycle through and just check and make sure you don't have any fuel leaks. After that's done and if you guys don't see any fuel leaks, then I would recommend starting the car, just letting it run for a minute. Double check again that you don't have any fuel leaks before buttoning all this stuff up. But, at this point, we know we're good to go. So we're gonna get our engine cover back in place, followed by our strut tower brace. All right, guys. That's gonna wrap up this review and install. Keep in mind that you can always check these out more online right here at americanmuscle.com.