(approx) 2 Hours
Light to Moderate mechanical skill required.
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Hey, guys, Adam here with americanmuscle.com and today we're taking a closer look at the MP Concepts Hood Scoop with the LED chase lighting, available for the 2018 and newer GT & EcoBoost Mustang. You should be checking this out for your own Mustang if you're looking to customize the front end of your vehicle with a foe [SP] hood scoop, one that adds a ton of aggression to your vehicle's appearance with some LED accent lighting. First and foremost guys, this, of course, is not going to be for everyone. LED lighting inside of the hood scoop just won't be for everyone, but if you're interested in this super custom, very unique look to a hood scoop, this is a great way to go at a very affordable price.Now, as you can see, this particular hood scoop comes in a black finish, not necessarily a gloss black painted finish. This is more of an unfinished look right out of the box. It is paintable. Some guys do like to mount it up like we have here just right out of the box with no paint. Either way still looks pretty good on top of the vehicle's hood. Now, this guy does have the LED chase accent lighting. Chase being that it runs side to side, left to right. This is very similar to a very famous movie car from the '80s which shall remain nameless, but this guy here, of course, is very, very recognizable. It's worth noting before we go forward that the LED chase lighting here that you see in red is not necessarily street legal. This is meant for off-road use, car show applications, things like that. So, make sure you have it off when you're driving on the streets from red light to red light.As far as operating the chase LED here, there is a key fob included in the kit that you can use to turn it on and off. There's only one button so it's super straightforward, you just click it once for on and once again for off. Now, this guy is made from a super lightweight, very durable ABS plastic construction. Now, ABS plastic is an extremely common material used in aftermarket exterior styling parts, especially when it comes to hood scoops and things like that, rear spoilers and such. So, it is a very durable material, and it is very lightweight, so you don't have to worry about adding a ton of weight to the front end. It's worth noting also, and it goes without saying, I think that the LED chase lighting is a foe hood opening. This is not a functional hood scoop obviously, so no aerodynamic qualities to it. There's not going to be anything for heat extraction or anything like that. This is pure styling 100%.With that it does require some drilling. You're going to be drilling three holes for the mounting studs, and it's also going to use 3M automotive bonding tape. So, it's a double security action happening there. The 3M tape will go on both sides and the back near your cowl, so that's going to help make sure it sticks in place. And then, three studs will go right through the top of the hood into the underside of the engine bay underneath the hood liner, so you won't even see them when the hoods pop, which I actually really like. With that, the difficulty does get bumped up, which I'll talk about in just a second. Know that this guy comes in right around 200 bucks. So, again, not the most expensive exterior styling piece. As a matter of fact, it's pretty affordable in the realm of some of the hood scoop options and the hood scoop stylings.Now, the install will get three out of three wrenches on our difficulty meter due to the modification, and the LED chase lighting is going to require some wiring. Now, it uses a control module and a separate key fob that you'll have separate that'll be able to activate this on and off. With that, you'll have to wire it into a ground source. Typically, your battery under the hood, and a 12-volt ignition source. You could run it to the battery, and I'll talk that a little bit later on. You just want to make sure that you're remembering to turn this guy off so it doesn't drain your battery.Now, I'll walk you through the install process. The wiring will be a little bit custom and we'll get to that toward the end of the install, but I'll walk you through using the template to mark your drilling locations. We'll drill through with our certain drill bit sizes, and then we'll move on to bulking this down. What do you say we get started?All right, tools used in this install include a drill, a variety of drill bits, scissors, and a knife, quarter-inch ratchet, 10-millimeter deep socket, 3-millimeter hex socket or Allen key, center hole punch, Phillips head screwdriver, measuring tape, painter's tape, a variety of smaller zip ties is recommended. Soap and water mixture in a squirt bottle. And finally, a clean microfiber. All right, to kick things off, really the only uninstalls we have to do is under the hood here. We're going to take off this hood insulation liner. Now, you're going to use a panel removal tool, at least this is what I recommend, a flathead would work. This just makes life easier. We have about 15 of these plastic rivets or the plastic push pin clips holding this guy in all around the perimeter of the liner and a couple of them in the middle. So, let's get those off. All right?So, now, what I want to do is basically just hook this guy in here, and you, of course, want to make sure your hand's here so this doesn't drop into the engine bay, and just pop that guy off. It's super simple. There is a bunch of them so have a little patience. Let's get the rest of them off. Just open that guy up a little bit and then put this in and pry it off.All right, so that'll fall, and we can set this aside. All right, so, the next step here, we have our template. Now, this template is going to help us not only line up where we need to put the hood scoop, but it's also got the markings on the template here to show us where exactly we're drilling into the hood. Now, before we can do anything with that, we do have to cut it out. As you can see, there's a little scissor down there. So, grab some scissors, cut along the black line all the way around. You want to make sure you're cutting this as perfect as you possibly can to make sure the template is accurate. So, we're going to cut this guy out. We'll come back and clean off the hood and then set it up for some drilling.Before we head over to the table to assemble some components of our hood scoop, we want to make sure the hood is actually clean and has some time to dry as well. I have a soap and water mixture in a squirt bottle here and a clean microfiber. I highly recommend just soap and water, things like a detailer leave a chemical residue behind. Not necessarily something you want before putting 3M on your hood just because it'll prohibit some really good bonding between the two. So, soap and water works best. I'm just going to spray the hood down a little bit and then wipe it with a clean microfiber.All right, so now, we're on the table here. We have our hood scoop faced down. Now underneath, I have a bunch of microfibers just because you don't want to get it scratched up on the table here. First thing we're going to do is assemble our light. Now this LED light doesn't look like much now, but when plugged in, it will look pretty darn cool. What we're going to have to do is go to the front of the hood scoop where you have the curved end, so you have a curved end and a more flat surface. The curved end is the front, you're going to take this guy upside down, and you're basically going to feed the wiring in. And there's an open to cutout hole here so that that can feed through just like that, and we'll plug that in here.Now, for this, we're just going to basically sit it in the open slot, and you're going to push in so that the holes here all along match up with the pre-drilled holes on the inside of the scoop. All right, so, you're going to push this all the way in so it seats all the way and you'll see the hole start to line up. Once they do, you're going to grab the Phillips head screws included in the kit and tighten them down. So, I'm going to start here.All right, and then, very simply, we have our module here that goes to the open-ended power and ground wires. This is going to help with the actual key fob included in the kit. Now, this guy, we're just going to set off to the side for now, but what we are going to do is plug these guys in. Just like that. All right, next up, we're going to take the three studs included in the kit and insert them into the threaded holes and mounting points underneath the hood scoop. Now, this is pretty simple. They're just going to thread right on, and then, I'll follow that up with a jam nut that'll sit right on top there, and that's a 10 millimeter. Before I do this, this isn't completely necessary. It might even be a little overkill, but it's not a bad idea to have Blue Loctite on deck and just to hit it with a very small dab, just to make sure that the studs stay tight. All right, so, I'm gonna throw this guy down by hand. It's not a bad idea to also make sure you're threading this down with the Allen or hex side facing up so you can use a 3-millimeter Allen key or hex socket to just tighten it all the way down. You don't want to go too far, you don't want to strip it out. Just get it nice and snug. Do that same thing for the other two.All right, next up, what we're going to do is install our 10-millimeter nut, thread that guy on by hand all the way down. Grab your 10-socket. Do the same thing for the other two. Next step, we're going to take the 3M tape wall included in the kit. We are going to have to cut these strips to length. We're basically going to put a strip along the edge here on both sides, and the backside, but not the front. So, let's take the roll, I'm going to peel off a piece of this guy and I'm going to stick that right here on the edging, and just work my way back all the way to the end. Now, you just want to make sure when you're laying this down that it's not overlapping the edge. You don't want to see it once the hood scoop is installed. All right, so once you make it to the end there, I'm going to take my knife and I'm going to carefully just cut the end of this, just like that. All right, now, I'm not going to peel off the backing just yet. We're going to leave that in place. Just make sure you're putting firm pressure all around so it gets a good bond. Repeat this for the other two sections.All right, so, at this point, we cut our template out. We have it placed on our hood. Now, this is going to be a huge trial and error process. You want to make sure that you're putting this right about the center of your hood, and you can use these hood lines as a marker. There's one on each side directly between the two vents. Using that as a guide along with the backside of the hood will help tremendously. And this is where cutting that thing out comes in play. Now, this guy you want to make sure is even, you want to make sure it's straight, and you want to make sure the center bolt here is aligned with the centerline of your hood. Now, we've got it in a pretty good spot. I'm just going to finish taping it off. We want to make sure there isn't a ton of play in the template itself. We want it to be completely flush so that it doesn't move when we're doing our drilling.Now, painters tape for this is going to be your best bet. You don't want to damage the paint at all. All right, so, right now, we have the hood popped and I have two blocks of wood here with microfibers over them. I mean, you can use anything for this really, but we just want to prop the hood up so when we drill through the top of the hood, we don't end up hitting the engine cover. You want to put enough space between this and the bottom of the inside of the hood here so the drill bit doesn't go all the way through and touch something in the engine bay. So, I got the microfibers there just so we don't scratch the paint under the hood there, and this is just propping it up enough. Now, we still want to be able to comfortably get to these holes there, which I think we have this perfect position here.Next, I'm gonna use a center punch. This is going to help me mark the dead center of the holes in the template before I drove my pilot hole. That way our drill bit has a starting point and won't dance around trying to make that first initial drill. So, I'm going to put that right in the center of the crosshairs and click it down. And that's just putting a little dent in the hood. So we can start our bit there. All right, I'm going to do that for the other two.All right, so, the first hole we're going to drill is with an eighth-inch drill bit. We'll then bump up to a 9-30 seconds for the final hole. All right, so, we just got through the first layer. You have to go through the inner and the outer hood and we've gone through the first outer and that's why you need to prop the hood up because when you go through the inner hood, you don't want to hit anything underneath. Just make sure you're going completely straight. All right, so, you popped the hood, you can see we came through it didn't touch anything underneath. All right, still using that eighth inch bit. I'm going to do the other two holes.All right, so now, we've got our 930 seconds drill bit and we're going to finish it up drilling right through that same hole. All right, so, we've got our holes drilled, we test fit our hood scoop, which I definitely recommend doing. Make sure the studs dropped through properly. Now, what we're going to do is we have to drill a fourth hole, not on the template, for our wiring. The wiring for that LED chase in the front of the hood scoop there has to run inside the hood scoop and we got to drop it down under the hood to hook it up to wherever your power supply is coming from. Typically, the battery. Now, what we're going to do here is find a spot to drill that fourth hole. Now, this is personal preference. You can go anywhere, which is why it's not included in the template. I like this little tab right in the center here. Now, you'll see that it's basically dead center between these two holes that we drilled. Right there.Now, for this hole, I'm going to measure the distance on the top side of the hood between these two, cut it in half and I'm going to drill right in that center point. That way it'll come right through this tab. So, let's get that done. All right guys. Now I'm going to drill my hole to feed our wiring through. Now, of course, like I said, this is personal preference as to where you do your drilling. I just put a piece of painters tape here just to show you guys exactly where I'm going. Halfway between these two points and a little bit more forward to go through that little cutout, the square cutout in the second layer of the hood. I'm going to go in with an eighth-inch bit here and then bump it up a size to make sure that our wiring will fit.So, within our test fitting, we saw that the studs don't actually drop through the entire hood to come through these holes. So, with that, we either need the stud to be longer, which obviously is not going to work. Or two, we need to make these holes bigger so we can get a socket within them to tighten down our 10-millimeter nuts. So, what I'm going to do is just make it the inner holes, not the outer holes on the outside of the hood. I'm going to make these just a little bit bigger so we can fit a 10-millimeter socket in them. When you're doing this, it's a good idea to put something over the engine Bay to make sure the metal shavings don't fall in.All right, so, next up, we're going to feed our wiring from the engine bay to the outside of the hood, and then, plug it into the connector under the hood scoop before installing it. Now, I deepened the connector just so we didn't have to drill a big enough hole to fit the entire connector through. I find that to be a little bit easier. You can use a paper clip for that sometimes or even just a pick if you have some specialty tools to do that, so I deepened it. I'm going to feed them up through this hole.All right, next step, guys. I want to make note here that I peeled our 3M tape backing off halfway, and just hung it over the side. That way we can sort of get it installed so it sticks in place and we know we like where we want it, and then we're going to peel it off from the rest of the 3M backing. Now, before we do that, we of course, have to plug it in. That's why we fed this through from the inside to the out. I taped down the other side of the connector just so when it's installed, they're not tapping on the inside when you're driving. I also am going to take this connector and just plug it in here, just like that. And if you want, you can take the rest of it back but it does get to be a little bit of a tight squeeze. I'm going to install this onto the hood now dropping the studs through the holes with the help of my buddy just to make sure that we're not scratching the paint with the studs. You want to make sure it goes right into the holes.All right. At this point, once you know you like the position of the hood scoop, you're basically going to make sure it's aligned properly. Peel off that 3M tape backing and put pressure all around. All right, and now, we can bolt it down from the underside. All right, at this point, I've got my nut here, and my 10-millimeter socket. And the key is not to drop it inside of the hood. I'm going to thread this guy on first from the socket. Basically, just repeating that for the rest of the studs.Guys, next step, we're just going to finish feeding our wiring, and then you can hook it up to where you see fit. Now, this wiring here, I'm actually just going to zip tie right to our washer fluid line. That way it's up and out of the way, and then we'll do another one right here, and then, if you want, you can do it at the bottom, and then feed the wiring back. All right, so now we can put our Hoodliner back on. All right, so next, for our Hoodliner here, I'm just going to pop this guy back up into position. I'm going to put one of these pushpins back on at the top, and one at the bottom, just to hold it in place.All right, now, for the wiring here it is personal preference. You can run it wherever you see fit. You want to make sure the black is going to a proper ground. Typically, your battery is the best bet. When it comes to the power, I'm just going to run it to the battery positive terminal to show you guys what this is going to look like. Now, running it to the power of your battery here on the positive side could be risky because if it doesn't fully turn off, once your vehicle's off, it can drain your battery. It might be worthwhile running it to a switch. Maybe something in the fuse box here that actually cycles on and off with the ignition. So, you want to get a 12-volt ignition source. I'm gonna run it to the battery again, just for demonstration purposes to show you guys what this is going to look like. All right, from there guys, you're good to go.Well, guys, that's gonna wrap up my review and install for the MP Concepts Hood Scoop with the LED chase lighting, available for the '18 and newer GT and EcoBoost Mustang. You can get yours exclusively right here at americanmuscle.com.
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Features, Description, Reviews, Q&A, Specs & Installation
MP Concepts 406783
CA Residents: WARNING: Cancer and Reproductive Harm - www.P65Warnings.ca.gov
(approx) 2 Hours
Light to Moderate mechanical skill required.
What's in the Box
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