Review & Install Video
Justin: If you're a big fan of carbon fiber and are looking to add a classy touch to the front end of your 2018 and newer Mustang then you might want to consider the Anderson Composites Lower Grille that we have here either by itself or maybe even in combination with their matching upper grille. Now Anderson's lower grille will mount in the factory location without any cutting or permanent modification using your existing factory hardware. But the beautiful 3K carbon weave will set you back a pretty penny at the mid $400 level. However, guys, since this is a no-frills installation, the site is gonna stick with a one out three wrenches on the old difficulty meter here and call this one roughly an hour or so to complete from start to finish, but hang till the end and we'll show you how it's done.
So I would say this product is certainly gonna be for those ballers out there who are looking to add as much carbon fiber to their ride as possible. Now I say that because outside of the beautiful carbon fiber finish here, the Anderson Composite piece really isn't gonna drastically alter your front end appearance. In fact, the lower grille is gonna utilize the same exact recipe or design, if you will, as the factory lower grille on your GT. Now, if you have an EcoBoost, it will eliminate that factory honeycomb piece but unless you look really closely, you might miss the fact that this is an aftermarket piece once everything has been installed.
So if you're not getting some crazy over the top appearance with the Anderson piece, what can you expect? Well, that beautiful carbon fiber weave is going to be the main attraction as Anderson really does crush this from a build standpoint. Now I say that because they've managed to use an unbroken carbon fiber weave layer, so the appearance is going to be extremely consistent and they even rolled the edges all around the design here as to not see any blemishes once everything has been installed. Now Anderson does build these things using what they called their wet process and again it will feature that 3K 2x2 twill weave design before being finished off in a super high gloss finish and then a buffed to a brilliant shine that you see right here. Now that top coat does feature or include I should say a UV layer kind of baked in and that's gonna help prevent these things from fading on you over the years. And lastly, the entire grille is proudly manufactured right here in the USA.
But now let's get into the installation as promised earlier, and again nothing really too crazy here guys, so figure a one out of three wrenches on that difficulty meter and about an hour or so to get everything knocked out. And to give you a better idea of how this one will go down here is a detailed walkthrough along with a quick tool breakdown with Andrew.
Andrew: Tools used for the installation: push pin removal tool, panel removal tool, ratcheting 10-millimeter wrench, quarter-inch drive, 8-millimeter socket, 7-millimeter socket, five and a half-millimeter socket, extension, lug wrench with impact and impacts are optional. All right, now we're first gonna start off removing our two front wheels because you have to gain access to this inner splash shield.
All right, now with a push pin removal tool, we are going to remove the six push pins holding the inner fender in. So there's also one up here in the corner, can get a little tricky to get to sometimes. Now there's also one on the body itself, you're going to push up on that. Remove that. And now we can peel this back. And what I like to do is just tuck behind the rotor here. All right, now that we have our inner fender sitting like that, we're gonna repeat that on the other side.
All right, so now that we're underneath the car and we have our splash shield up and out of the way, there are roughly 19 7-millimeter screws holding this under tray on. Now there are two push pins right here where you are gonna leave them in that spot, so this tray does not fall down. So there are four back here and about 15 in the front right here as well as two right there. Get these two out. And then I'm gonna start the sides. All right. Now that we have all our screws out, we are going to be removing these last two push pins. Now this is all that is holding this tray on, so I'm going to keep an arm on this one over here. Remove this last push pin. And then the key here is to take your under tray and just pull backwards and it will fall out.
All right, so now we are going to disconnect our turn signal and fog light assembly, it's just one plug. Do that on both side so when we pull our bumper off we don't have to disconnect them with the bumper in our hand. All right, now we're gonna pop the hood to access the top of the bumper. All right, now with the hood up we're are going to remove this panel right here, they are eight push pins, just separate them, pop those out. All right, now we're gonna remove this cover and set it to the side. All right, now we're gonna remove the eight bolts on the top of the bumper cover, this is a five and a half mil and this is an eight and a half mil. All right, switching back to the 8-millimeter. All right, so we only have four more nuts holding this bumper on, there are two on each side. This is the upper corner of the bumper and the lower corner of the front quarter panel. I'm using a 10-millimeter ratcheting wrench because this is a tight spot. Now what I like to do is get them loose hand tight then you can just back them off the rest of the way. And this is identical on the other side as well.
All right, now with those nuts removed, we can now remove our bumper. I'm gonna pull down a little bit and out. And it'll release that little Christmas tree clip that's inside there and you can see that we're off the headlight there, we're gonna do that on both sides real quick. Now the only thing holding the bumper on is the top right here and you can see these little studs. So we just got to peel back the bumper gently and it will come right off.
All right, now we're gonna be removing this plastic support brace and what I have here is just the trim panel removal tool. For the bottom ones, you push up, the top ones you push down. More here.
All right, as you can see our grille has been out a lot, these tabs are kind of mauled up a little bit, but that's okay yours is gonna be freshly painted. What we're gonna do here, again, bottom ones you push down, the top ones you push up. So I'm gonna start the corners and work my way in. And you want to make sure you keep a little tension here so these clips don't get pushed back in by accident. All right, and I'll set this off to the side. All right, now we're gonna bring our new grille in, set it in place. And what I'm gonna do here is just line up all my clips from the corners, the top, the bottom, make sure everything falls into the place. All right, you hold that up just clip it in already. Now what would I like to do here too is get in the front of it. Check to make sure all your clips have made it through. And one thing you're not gonna reinstall is that plastic support piece. All right, now we're ready to put it back on the car.
All right, now I have a buddy helping me out with the other end because I don't want to scratch with the paint with these two studs. And what we're gonna do is bring the bumper on the vehicle, make sure that the bumper studs are going into the corner and that the bumper is tucked underneath the headlight. Now these just fell right into place.
All right, now once you have it on we are going to just put one of these nuts in corner and make it hand tight just to make sure the bumper does not fall down. All right, now I'm gonna put the bolts back on the top of the bumper, again, these are the eight mil and the five and a half millimeter. I have my impact on the lowest setting as well because this is a painted surface. All right, now I'm gonna put my second nut on the corner of the bumper, hand tighten this one down and then tighten it down with my ratcheting 10-millimeter wrench. And do this on both sides as well. All right, now it's time to install your plug back on your light.
All right, now we're gonna be reinstalling our tray and it's important to make sure that your corners, your front goes underneath your chin spoiler, like that. So in my other hand, I have the two push pins that go in the back over here and what that's gonna do is hold it up for me while I reinstall all those screws. So what I'm gonna do is just make some more adjustments like this popped out a little bit but should just be able to tuck it in. Next, we're gonna be reinstalling all of our screws. Sometimes you have to push you or splitter into place. Again my impact is on the lowest setting, you are only screwing it into these little nut clips. All right, now we're gonna go in the center here underneath the car. There are six, four in the back here and then two in the middle. All right, now we're gonna reinstall all the push pins in our splash shield. We're gonna do this on both sides and then we're gonna reinstall the wheel and then move back to the top. All right, let's reinstall these wheels. All right, we're gonna do that on the other side, but always remember to torque down your lug nuts.
All right, now with our car back on the ground, we're gonna put our last piece which is our radiator cover here, just reinstall your push pins. All right, that's gonna wrap up my install of this Anderson Composites Lower Grille. And for all things Mustang, keep it right here at americanmuscle.com.