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Jake: Jake here for American Muscle. And today, I'm taking a look at the C&L 90mm Throttle Body for 2011 to 2014 Mustang GTs. More air means more power, and more power is always the goal. So, if you've got a pretty heavily-modified S197 GT, then upgrading your throttle body should be a no-brainer. This is an inexpensive simple bolt-on upgrade that's gonna make a perfect complement to other mods on your Mustang. However, I will say that if you have an otherwise stock car or one that is not heavily modified, you may wanna hold off on doing this as it doesn't necessarily pair well with lightly-modified vehicles.Measuring in at a 90-millimeter boar, this is a pretty substantial increase versus that stock 80-millimeter throttle body that comes on these cars. That means this is gonna bring in much more air. So it's perfect for a car that is heavily modified or one that already has forced induction. Getting that extra air is gonna help improve throttle response and overall power and torque. It also does not require any additional tuning to work with your car, though in order to extract the most out of it, we would recommend a custom tune. In the kit, too, you also get a new throttle body spacer and a gasket to go along with it, so you've got everything you need to get this installed on the car.The body itself is constructed entirely of CNC-machined 6061 T6 billet aluminum, and it's finished in this nice flat black. You also get brand new electronics already installed, and that includes both a high torque server motor and a non-contact Hall effect throttle position sensor. So, this is gonna deliver a really snappy and consistent throttle response much more so than your stock throttle body.Now, as far as pricing goes, this one's gonna run you about $300, making it one of the least expensive big bore throttle bodies for this generation of Mustang. It is a good quality item, and it's gonna definitely accomplish that task of getting some additional airflow. So I would call this one a big win.Installation is also easy, coming in at a one out of three on our difficulty meter. This is a total bolt-on type of install. Just do up a few bolts that keep the throttle body on, clip in that connector, and you're pretty much done. Should only take you about an hour to get it installed. Plus, you get brand new bolts, that new gasket along with a throttle body sensor, and also a new connector to have you get it all done. So you don't need to even reuse anything from your stock throttle body. And now, to show you the process, let's throw it over to one of our AM customers.Man: Okay, these are the tools that were required to install the Grams 90-millimeter throttle body on my 2012 Mustang GT. So, you got your 5/16s or 8-millimeter wrench to take your battery lose, well, for your negative terminal on the battery, and then screwdriver to take your connector lose for your intake. Your intake connector is a clamp. Use that to take that loose, again, or you could use an 8-millimeter socket.Moving on to that, the 8-millimeter socket was used to take the stock throttle body bolts lose. And as well I used this also to take the intake clamp lose or tighten it back up, rather. I used the screwdriver to loosen it and the 8-millimeter to snuck it back up. The 10-millimeter socket was used to install the bolts that were provided with the 90-millimeter Grams Throttle Body, and, of course, a ratchet to utilize both sockets.And an extension for when I installed and removed the throttle body bolts, that way, like I said, it's easier, in my opinion, to have a little bit of distance on it, so that way, one, if you drop your socket, you know what I mean, it's attached to this as opposed to falling down into your engine bay and getting lost or whatever. And then last but not least, the shop rag, which you use to clean up the gasket on your intake and clean up your intake mating surface before you put the throttle body and the spacers on it. That's pretty much all the tools that were needed to... Oh, yeah, and my hand.First thing we gotta do, [inaudible 00:04:36] socket, and we're gonna unhook this negative battery terminal over here. Tuck it out over here so it's out of the way and it doesn't fall back on when you're in the middle of your work. So, the next step, we gotta take this engine cover roll, which is pretty easy. It's only held in by, like, four snap clips. I believe it's here, here, here, and here. But all you really gotta do is give it a good tub. See, there's one, there's two, three, and four popped up with it. Basically, it's snapped down in these little rubber boots right there. Here's a video or a shot of the little clips. Set this off aside.There was no tool required with that, just your hands. Pretty easy. If they're down in there real good, you may need, like, a pry bar or something or a clip tool to get under there and kind of give it a little pop. But really all you need is to just give it a tug and that'll snap right loose. Next thing you're gonna wanna do is unhook your air intake, too. For the stock ones, it's pretty much a really similar process. You're gonna wanna loosen your clamp. Same on a stock setup. This is a cold air intake, so it's gonna be a little different. But like I said, you're gonna wanna disconnect your clamp, loosen your clamp up.You're gonna need to take this PCV tube loose and this vacuum line, vacuum or emissions, one of the two. But you're gonna need to take both of those loose as well as disconnect the clamp. And you're gonna need to take your mass airflow sensor out. On the stock one, you'll then have to disconnect the top section of the air filter box and take the whole thing off. With this one, it's pretty easy. I'm just gonna loosen this up, take that off, that off, and take that loose, and then that's pretty much it. Use a flathead screwdriver or a Phillips or an 8-millimeter socket or wrench, whatever. I'm gonna use just this flathead screwdriver.Now, something else to note is when you put this back on, you're not gonna be able to use your stock air filter housing unless you have something smaller than a 90-millimeter. The replacement one that I'm putting on is a 90-millimeter, so it will not fit on the stock air filter connecting the little rubber boots. Just way too small for it. So, to take this one loose, you just push this yellow clip in and pull out. And that's loose. Tuck it out of the way for now.Now, this bottom one is a little different. There's, like, a plastic... I don't think you're gonna even be able to see it, but there's, like, a little plastic tab that sticks out. You're gonna wanna push it. Is it push it or pull it? You push it down and then pull back on it. So, I'll show you here. This is the locking mechanism right here. You push this clip. It's not moving. Now, there we go. You push it down and then you pull out, and it'll come right off. But basically, this is what keeps it locked in around this little rib.Now, you're gonna take the mass airflow sensor connector off. With this, you got this little red tab. It's like a safety lock, keeps it from coming loose. Push that back. You just use a screwdriver. You can use your fingernail if you want. Screwdriver's in here, and then you'll push this clip in and pull out. So well done. No, never mind. So, this little tab right here is what you're pushing. You push it, and you pull. And then that's pretty much it.Just set your air filter tube off to the side, and now you're ready to get to the throttle body itself. So, to take the throttle body lose, you got a connector right here, yep. And it's got the little red clip also. And then you got these four bolts right here, or 8-millimeter, it looks like, and that's pretty much... Just take it right off. So, first, we'll take this clip lose, pop it out. [inaudible 00:09:39.557] So, pull the red tab back like I just did, and then you... Same with the mass airflow sensor, you push it in and pull it out, and it comes off. Set that off to the side.Now, we can take these screws or bolts loose. Take these bolts lose, and that's it. Throttle body's off. That's gonna be an 8-millimeter. We're gonna need an 8-millimeter, a ratchet, and a... I would recommend some kind of extension, be it even if it's a short extension that way you're not so right up on this. Make sure you're going the right way. Now, these screws and bolts are pretty easy to take loose. They're not real tight because their intake is plastic.And you're not gonna wanna put 'em back on real tight either. I mean, you're gonna want 'em snug, but you don't need to crank it down. Well, you take these [inaudible 00:10:49] out. Try not to drop 'em. One, two. This one has to be easier. Three. Let's get the last one. Be careful of the rubber gasket behind there. You're not gonna want to tear that over-in gasket up because you're gonna need it. That's it. It just comes right off. Old throttle body, old, small, little throttle body.This is the gasket you're gonna wanna try to be careful with. You don't wanna cut it or tear it. And you're gonna wanna inspect it to make sure it's not cut or tore or got chunks missing out of it or all cracked up because if not, you're gonna have problems. Let's take the box, open it up. Got your warranty card, your instructions, and all your necessary pieces to install it. Let's set them off to the side. Yep, gives you your detailed instructions. Pretty easy process. Take your gasket out. And here is a spacer, and what this spacer does is its taper. See, it's wider out here than it is on over here.I don't know if you can actually see the taper on camera, but when you get it, you'll be able to tell. What this does is it helps to take the 90-millimeter throttle body size because this is a little smaller than 90-millimeter, unless you have a different intake. And what you're gonna need is to make sure you put it on...you're gonna wanna put it where the wider side is facing your new throttle body and the tapered side is facing your intake, so that way, it helps channel the air through there nice and smooth without having, like, a crazy transition where it hits this edge and gets caught up.All right, so [inaudible 00:13:39] that. And you got some new bolts. They're probably a little longer. You're gonna need to use these if you're using that spacer. Now, if your intake opening is bigger in this intake opening and it's more closer to the size of your new throttle body, you probably won't need to use that spacer. And, in that case, you're probably gonna wanna use your old throttle body bolts to reattach it.But since we are gonna use the spacer, we're gonna use the supplied screws because they're a little bit longer, and that way, it makes up with a cap and the spacer. And you got a little wire harness also to change it over from the flat style to more oval, which is exactly what I'm betting the throttle body is. There we go. All right. Put it back on to the side. I'm gonna put that stock throttle body so you can see the difference. Yeah. A little bit bigger. I think it fits right inside of it.I would suggest probably attaching the harness first, so that way, that's out the way and just, you know, one less thing you gotta try to put on while it's down in place. Now, like I was saying, it's important now these gaskets go on. So you're gonna want this gasket to go on the throttle body itself because you don't need a gasket behind that because you have the rubber O-rings. What you need is, is you need a gasket, then you need the spacer.And make sure you put it on the correct way. You want the wider side facing your throttle body, and the more narrow side, the tapered side, to go towards the intake. So, let's put these on. Grab my screw up in there to keep it in place. All of them, so it helps hold it all together. Put this box off to the side, give me some more room. Now, also, these bolts are a little bit bigger. They're not 8-millimeter like the stock ones. These are 10 millimeters, so make sure you have a 10-millimeter socket. Set it down in there, and make sure your wire harness is off out the way and not getting caught behind it.Make sure there's nothing else getting caught behind it. And I would suggest set it up against it and get one of these bolts started, so that way, you can make sure everything's situated like it's supposed to. Let me start another one. Now, you don't wanna tighten it too much. You still wanna be able to wiggle the throttle body so you can get these bottom screws lined up and not cross-threaded or anything. Just wiggle it around and kinda... If they feel like they're getting tight, then back it off because it should not get tight. It should turn nice and smooth just like this.Once you get all your bolts started, then I would recommend coming back and hand-tightening 'em, just snugging 'em down so everything's all in where it's supposed to be. Make sure everything fits nice and good and there's nothing trapped or fall behind it. That'll keep it from fully seating against the intake. Basically, you just hand-tightening 'em down. Really easy. All hand-tightened and pretty good. Now, you're gonna put the ratchet back on and snug it down. You don't wanna tighten 'em up crazy because, again, with this plastic intake, the little metal...not exactly sure.The little metal plugs that go in there that these bolts thread into, you can mess 'em up if you ever tighten it. So, once you get it hand-tightened, just give it a little bit. Really don't use no force at all. And I'm gonna crisscross. I'mma go up top and then come down to this one, so that way I'm not pinching it this way or that way. I'm gonna pull it down tight this way and then tight that way, and these two should almost be able to be done by hand. That's tight. [inaudible 00:19:13.018] this. That's tight. That's tight.All you really wanna do is just trying to...that rubber gasket back there, and just trying to squish it up against that spacer, so that way everything's sealed. Really don't want 'em too tight. All right, and then, now we can plug our harness back up. So, it give you an extra couple of inches. Looks like 5 or 6 inches of harness to go along with already. Best way for me to do this is probably gonna be to plug it up and let it sit up here so it doesn't get caught up in the fan, or another alternative would be to zip tie it or somehow secure it to one of these hoses or one of these harnesses down here.So, I think that'll do fine, just like that, though. That'll keep it up. And then you're gonna want to snap your little red safety clip down too, so that way you don't gotta worry about nothing coming back off. And now you're ready to put your intake back on. Now, again, it may be a little tight, but this intake, it's set up where this connector should fit perfect in here. Yep, sit straight on. Now, I would connect all your other hoses and lines back up, so that way you still have movement of this. If you gotta move it around, I would wait to tighten that down.So, let's put this back on. You wanna push it in till you hear that click. That click means it's locked in. I'm gonna push this on. When you hear that click, that's how you know it's not gonna come back off. Now, reach down here, get your last airflow sensor back in. Don't forget to put your safety clip down because that'll keep it from working itself back off. And make sure everything's nice and tight up on there, and tighten your clamp up. Use your screwdriver or your 8-millimeter. I'm gonna use an 8-millimeter for that because you want it to be secure.You don't want it to come back off. But you could use a screwdriver as well. Make sure your clamp and everything's on there real good before you tighten it down. There you go. A little tug to make sure it's not gonna wiggle itself loose. That's it. You don't need to crank it down too much because, again, you're just trying to hold that rubber connector on. Everything looks good now.Now, we can reattach our negative battery terminal and put our cover back on. Let's see how that fit its new home. Yep, it's right in there. Perfect. All right. Push your little snap locks back down, and make sure it's not gonna rattle around on you. When it's down, take up the battery, and that pretty much is it. Great. You're good to go. Everything is done. Intake tube is secured, everything's plugged up. That's it.Jake: That's gonna wrap it up here for our review and install of the C&L 90mm Throttle Body for 2011 to 2014 Mustang GTs. Thank you for watching. And as always, for everything Mustang, be sure to keep it right here at americanmuscle.com.
Factory Programmable Non-Contact Hall Effect TPS Sensor
No Computer Re-Tune Required for Operation
Simple, Bolt-on Installation
Recommended for Highly Modified or Force Inducted Engines
Fits 2011-2014 GT Mustang Models
Description
More Air for More Power. Improve the power and performance of your 2011-2014 GT Mustang by upgrading to a C&L 90mm Throttle Body. This C&L Throttle Body delivers a measured increase in airflow when compared to the stock 80mm throttle body. This makes C&L's 90mm Throttle Body the perfect solution for heavily modified or force inducted Mustang owners who are looking for an extra increase in horsepower, torque and throttle response. Please note that stock or mildly modified GT's do not flow air enough to benefit from this larger Throttle Body.
No Tune Required. This C&L Performance 90mm Throttle Body is designed to improve the performance of your coyote-powered GT without the need of reprogramming your Mustang's computer. The engineers at C&L really did their homework to improve your Pony's power using the factory tune. Even though a re-tune is not required for operation, AmericanMuscle highly recommends a custom tune to reprogram the vehicles computer (ECU) to get the best possible performance from this Throttle Body.
High Quality Construction. Featuring a precision-honed over-sized bore, this Throttle Body is CNC machined from 6061-T6 billet aluminum. Brand new electronics, including a high-torque servo motor and a proprietary Non-Contact Hall Effect Throttle Position Sensor, are calibrated to meet the specific requirements of your Mustang's engine management system. The housing is completed in an aggressive black finish that looks great under your hood.
Simple Bolt-On Installation. C&L designed its 90mm Throttle Body to be a simple bolt-on upgrade. Featuring brand new pre-installed and pre-calibrated electronics, there is no additional modifications or wiring required. Installation can be completed in under an hour with simple hand tools.
No CARB EO Number. This C&L Performance 90mm Throttle Body does not have a CARB EO Number.
Application. This C&L 90mm Throttle Body is specifically designed to fit 2011-2014 GT Mustang models.
Extended Warranty. AmericanMuscle/Turn5 Inc. is proud to offer an optional 12 month extended limited warranty to our customers that purchase an eligible product. The program administrator will replace the cost of the covered part of a period of 12 months after the manufacturers warranty elapses, or from the date of purchase if the manufacturer does not offer a warranty.
Coverage. A Covered Part has failed when it can no longer perform the function for which it was originally designed solely because of its condition and not because of the action or inaction of any non-covered parts. The benefits available under this Limited Warranty are strictly provided to you for the replacement of the Covered Part(s) which fails due to a defect.
Notification Sent Via Email. You will receive notification of your enrollment in the extended product warranty program via email within 24 hours of placing your order. Please save this email for possible future reference.
No Deductibles Required. There are no deductibles required for use of this extended product warranty. If your covered part fails within the extended warranty time frame, simply call the program administrator at 1-844-870-4881 for instructions before any repairs or replacements have begun. Additional contact details and instructions will be included in your confirmation email.
WARNING: Cancer and Reproductive Harm - 
