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Cervini's C-Series Grille (18-22 Mustang GT, EcoBoost)

Item 406108
AmericanMuscle no longer carries the Cervini's C-Series Grille (18-22 Mustang GT, EcoBoost). Please check out 2015-2022 Mustang Grilles for an updated selection.
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    Video Review & Installation

    Hey, guys. Adam here with, and in this video, we'll be going over and installing the Cervinis C-Series upper and lower grille combo available for the '18 and newer GT and EcoBoost Mustangs. You should be checking this out for your own S550 if you're looking to get rid of that factory upper and lower grille combo while deleting the front-end pony, getting them to match a little bit more and pushing more air flow into your engine bay. This is not only good for appearance, but it's also good for a functional standpoint. As far as appearance, you're getting something that swaps out that gloss black upper grille with the chrome pony for a completely matte textured black, really high-quality material that's polyethylene construction. Super durable, looks really good on the front end, follows the body line of your vehicle pretty well. And one thing that I noticed while I had this installed, is following that line underneath your headlight is continued in the upper grille all the way across. It looks like it belongs on the front end of the '18 here that we have. This '18 GT performance pack has that lower chin spoiler that has the textured black finish, and this is extremely close to the finish on our Cervinis grille. So everything matches really well. That's not really something you can say for the factory upper and lower grilles, which really don't match with the lower chin spoiler, at least for our performance pack anyway. The lower grille also does the same thing, it follows the body lines really well. And one of the things that I noticed about the Cervini C-Series is it deletes any backing of the grille that really would get in the way of that airflow. Now, I will say it has that honeycomb cut-out that we did screw on to our upper and lower grille, so it does look complete. It doesn't just have a completely opened up back end. It does have that grille on the back, but there's nothing blocking airflow. Airflow is gonna be cooling off that engine bay a lot better than your factory grille, and honestly a lot better than any aftermarket grilles out there. I've installed a couple of them on the S550 and most, if not all of the other ones I've done has some kind of black backing on the inside of those corner pockets, which is gonna block the airflow to your cold air intake. It's gonna block the airflow to your inner cooler if you've got an EcoBoost. So this is one of those things that's gonna maximize the amount of airflow you're getting to the engine bay to have a better cooled engine, which is always better for performance. With all that in mind, this polyethylene construction is really durable, but we'll go in depth with what the materials are like and the differences between this and your factory grille once we have that factory one uninstalled, which I'll get to in just a little bit. If you want to get the upper grille by itself, you can do so. It's right around 300 bucks. The lower grille's about 200. If you want to get the combo kit, right around 500 bucks will get you everything you see here. I personally think it's a good idea to pick the upper and lower up together simply because they just match really well. A little bit better than the upper grille would with your factory lower and vice versa. The install for this, simple two out of three wrenches on our difficulty meter simply because we do have to uninstall the factory bumper in order to get this job done, which is just a little harder than a simple bolt-on, right? Taking apart body panels can be a little tricky, so have a little bit of mechanical expertise on deck and you'll be able to get that job done. Overall, it's not impossible though. You can tackle it in under an hour. I'll take you guys through every step of the process, just have simple hand tools on deck. Does not require any drilling, no modifications or any of that nonsense. There are a couple of things I want to point out before we do get started. Number one, there are two optional things that you can install or choose not to install. In our case, we did not. There's vinyl included in the kit to cover up some of that bumper crash bracket on the inside. As you can see, we got the Race Red '18, and you can see the Race Red crash bracket through the bumper support bracket. If you wanted to cover that up and blend that in a little bit more, there is the black vinyl included in the kit to cover that up. Secondly, there's also vinyl to help you cover up that blue windshield washer fluid reservoir, which is coming through on the bottom of the lower grille on the passenger side. You can slightly see that. So you can cover that up as well to get that to blend in. The last thing I want to point out that's optional, I have it tucked back here, is your support brackets. There's two of them. This is one. The other one is a simple steel L bracket that attaches to this. What I want to point out about this is in some cases, if you're using your Mustang for drag purposes, if you find yourself going 100-plus miles an hour, sometimes the aerodynamics of that does push that lower grille and have that pop out of place slightly. So in order to give it some reinforcements, Cervini has graciously included a couple of brackets that'll install to the underside of your bumper and your radiator support in order to push forward on that lower grille. Now, of course, if you don't find yourself using your Mustang at extremely high speeds, upwards of 100-plus miles an hour, of course just for drag use, then you want to install these brackets. Since we are not gonna be doing that with our 2018 GT, at least for this video's purpose, we're not going to be installing these brackets, but it is a very simple bolt-on install and all hardware for this has been included in the kit from Cervini. That's just something to keep in mind moving forward. This is very easy to install. Again, no modifications necessary, and the vinyl, of course, is a very simple installation, although I personally don't think it's a problem seeing that red bracket through the middle. If you have a dark-colored Mustang like black or maybe even magnetic, then you probably won't need to install it. Everything just blends in really nicely. But it might be something to keep in mind for the washer fluid reservoir. With all that in mind, guys, I want to take you through every step of the process. I'll show you how this gets uninstalled with the factory stuff, and we'll install the C-Series and get it to exactly what you see here today. So what do you say we just get to it?Tools used in this install include an impact gun, 1/4 inch ratchet, 5-1/2 millimeter short socket, 7, 8 and 10-millimeter deep sockets, wire cutters or similar cutting tool, panel removal tool, and a Phillips head screwdriver. All right, so the first step of the installation here, grab your impact gun or your ratchet and a 7-millimeter socket. I'll recommend a deep socket because there are a couple of deep pockets here, and you're gonna remove 17 7-millimeter bolts or screws, along with two push pin clips or plastic rivets. Those are gonna hold on the belly pan underneath our front end. So we're gonna start here under our front lip or front chin splitter, work our way around, and then we're gonna work our way to the back. All right, we've got four more of the 7-millimeter screws right in the middle here in these little indents. So one, two, three, four straight across. I'm gonna pop those out. All right, with those four out of the way, we have one and two plastic clips or pushpin rivets. Then we also have a couple more of them in each of the wheel wells. So we're gonna grab our panel removal tool to pop these out. All right, now we have a couple of those plastic push pin clips inside of the wheel well. We've got two right here, and one more tucked in front of our tire. These are also holding up that belly pan. So we're gonna remove these three and then move onto the other side and do the same thing. For this last one in the wheel well, it is a little bit smaller, so a flat-head screwdriver goes a long way in helping you get it out. We'll pry them out from both sides. The next step here, now that we have all of our bolts and screws removed from the belly pan, is just pop it off our car. Next step here now that our belly pan's out of the way, we have access to our accessory lights. So you just want to unplug the harness so it doesn't pull when you get the bumper off. That's just going to pinch the top and pull straight back. I'll do the same thing for the other side. All right, the next step here, we're going to disconnect our accessory light, now that our belly pan's out of the way and we can access it. So you want to come up here and you're just gonna pinch right where the wiring you're coming out of, pinch the top, pull straight back. Repeat for the other side. The next step here is to work on the push pins holding on this side of the wheel well. Now, there's one clip here and another one inside this little indent. Now, we're gonna have to remove those two in order to fold back our wheel well liner. Now, it is also recommended that you could take the wheels off completely on the front end to make your life a little easier. I find that you can just turn them to the opposite direction and give yourself enough room. So first things first, grab our panel removal tool, pry off those clips. This one might be a little difficult to see, but grab your panel tool, stick it in there as well. The flat-head screwdriver works just as well. The next step here is to peel back your wheel well liner and tuck it behind your tire if you still got your wheel on. If not, you can tuck it right behind your rotor. That'll give you access to the stud block with the two 10-millimeter nuts holding your bumper to your fender. So grab a deep socket 10-millimeter, grab your ratchet, and take this nut off and one that's a little bit farther behind it. Repeat the same thing on the other side. The next step here is to actually just remove that black stud block. So we're just gonna peel that back, and as you can see, it disconnects your bumper. Next step, you want to get your car on the ground here, pop open your hood, and we're gonna remove our radiator shroud. Now, this is held on by eight more of these clips. So grab that panel removal tool we've been using thus far, pop all eight of these out all across the radiator shroud. Once those are out, we'll have access to some of the remaining bumper bolts. Now we can get that shroud off. The next step here since we're exposing the rest of our bumper bolts, there's a bunch going straight across the lip here. There's one on each corner that's a 5.5-millimeter bolt head. So I'm gonna grab my 5.5 socket, get that one off, and then I'm gonna work my way down to the rest of the 8-mil, and then we'll finish off again with another 5 1/2. So, we're gonna back this one out. All right, now we're gonna swap that socket off to an 8 millimeter and remove the rest of these. And for this last one, we're gonna pop the 8-millimeter off, put that 5.5-millimeter back on and get this last one off. All right, it's about time that we actually remove our entire front bumper here. Now, it's a pretty easy process. You're just gonna lift up on it and outward toward the outside of the vehicle. Once it's off, you want to make sure you're setting it down on a safe place. You don't want to put it face down on the cement. Obviously, you want to protect your paint. So first things first, let's lift it up and get it off the car. Now that we have our bumper off the car and on our table, we still have a couple of things we need to uninstall. First thing we're gonna uninstall on the back of our bumper here is this bumper support right in the middle of the upper and lower grilles. Grab a flat-head screwdriver and go right into here with these covered tabs. Those tabs are holding this bumper place in. You want to stick that in, rotate the flat-head and pull as you're doing that simultaneously. That'll pop the tabs off. Some of them will be easier to get off than others. Some might fight you a little bit, so you'll have to use your flat-head, just like this one here. There we go. Set this aside. Now, the next step here, we're going to remove our upper and lower grille. We'll start with the bottom one because it's a little bit easier. We have a little bit more room to work with and it's easier to show you guys how this is gonna get done. Now, the directions do recommend using a pair of slip joint pliers, as well as a large flat-head screwdriver. I actually found that it is doable by hand. If you need those tools, of course, you can use them, have them on deck just to give you a hand and make life a little easier. Because our car is red, our tabs are red. So, obviously, if you have a Lightning Blue Mustang, these tabs will be a different color, but for us, the Race Red Mustang has these Race Red tabs. You're gonna push upward on the upper ones and pull back on the grille at the same time to disconnect. So push up, pull back. Push up, pull back, and you do that all the way around for all of them. And of course, on the bottom, you'll be pushing down and pulling out. Once that's taken care of, you'll pop the lower grille out of place and do the same thing for the upper. All right, so doing the same thing here for the upper grille. I'm gonna pry down on the bottom clips. It's also a good idea to have your hand on the outside of the grille, pushing toward the inside here. It helps you to dislodge the grille from the position. Well, guys, we finally got our factory upper and lower grille off of our 2018 GT performance pack and on the table here sitting next to our Cervini's C-Series. Now, there are clear night and day differences between the two, not only visually and functionally, but also overall in quality and materials. That factory upper grille is that, of course, gloss black. It's got the honeycomb finish, the chrome pony right in the middle. Something we've seen time and time again, which, of course, we all come to know and love, but sometimes it's time for a change. The lower grille, however, from the factory has that matte black textured finish, so they don't particularly match. Not entirely a fan of that myself, but, of course, that's all personal opinion. Now, looking at the Cervini option here, completely different. It's completely open in the middle. There's no grille, there's no insert. There is an optional insert that you can install, which we will show you how to do in just a minute, but right out of the box it's opened up just like this. It's almost similar to the factory look, but overall, quality wise, very different. This has a textured, matte black, flat black finish, both the upper and lower grilles, and also it's kind of significantly heavier. I was a little surprised at that. This is a polyethylene material. It's crack resistant, fade resistant. It's extremely impact resistant. It just feels very heavy duty and very high quality with that material. Can't say the same for the factory grille. The factory one feels a little bit more flimsy and a lot more plasticky. This one just feels like it's got durability to it. Your lower grille has that exact same identical design. Polyethylene material, has that textured feel to it, has that separator in between. No insert, comes right out of the box like that. But there are inserts provided for you in the kit. Not only do we have honeycomb finishes for the centerpieces, but we also have smaller cutouts for the edges there too, and we'll show you guys how to install that. Of course, that will be optional. You don't have to worry about installing that if you don't want. You could always leave it as an open finish, but keep in mind you'll be able to see a little bit more of the internal wiring harnesses and things like that if you don't install this.Overall, bigger airflow to the engine bay with this installed when compared to the factory option. Factory option, as you can see, those corner pockets are closed off on the back, so there's not a whole ton of airflow going through there, on this side as well, which is a little bit concerning because your cold air intake does feed right into that pocket on the driver's side. So that might be something you want to open up, and that's exactly what you get here with the C-Series from Cervini. We'll show you guys how to install this. It is a very different process than the factory grille, so I'm gonna get that factory bumper on the table here and show you guys how to install that piece by piece, starting with the upper grille. All right, guys. The next step here is to install that honeycomb grille. Now, of course, like I said, this is optional. You could leave it completely open. Some guys will think that might not look completely finished. What we're going to do is show you guys how to install this portion. You're just going to line this up with the back open portion here, making sure that it's aligned properly. As you can see, there are about five holes at the top and five at the bottom. We're gonna use our Philips head screws provided in the kit to tighten this down. So we're just gonna line up open portions of that honeycomb grille to those holes, and then from there we'll tighten them down. For now, we're just gonna lay them in place to get everything aligned. All right, once you have the upper grille completed, you can repeat the process for the lower grille. Doing the same thing for our lower grille, I'm gonna switch over to a drill with a Phillips head drill bit just to make things a little bit easier on us. Using a Phillips head screwdriver is the simplest way, but you know, work smart, not hard, is what I always try to do. The drill bit will make things a little easier and move things along a little bit quicker. So, using the same hardware essentially in the lower grille kit, we're gonna tighten it down by hand just to get it in place where we want it. And then from there, we'll be able to use our drill bit, or if you're still using a flat-head or a Phillips head screwdriver, then you can use that as well. All right, now we can bring the bumper on the table and start assembling these into their location. All right, guys. Step number one is to grab your upper grille and place it inside of your front bumper from the front. You want to push it in from the front and it'll seat just like this. These tabs with those open holes are very similar to the ones that we just put that honeycomb grille in, and this is the bracket that's gonna line this up to the tab on your front bumper. Now, that open hole on your bracket's gonna go in just like this, and it's essentially going to hug the front bumper, tightening it down to each other. We're gonna do this for all of the open holes all around the Cervini grille, using the same hardware as before, these Phillips head screws. Now, again, I'm gonna be using my drill just to make life a little easier, holding the front bumper on from the front. All right, and that starts to get nice and tight. Repeat this for all of the open holes. Now that you have the upper grille done, repeat this exact same process for the lower grille. Now the next step here before we get our bumper back on our '18, is to take that bumper support bracket that we removed that was originally on the back of the factory bumper in between the upper and lower grille. This is actually going to get installed straight to the bumper support that's actually on our 2018 GT. So in order to do that, we're gonna use our 3M tape here. The combination of the 3M tape holding it in place on the support bracket and the bumper pushing this in, putting pressure on behind, will keep this dead in place and not moving. So there are two rolls of 3M tape provided in the kit. We're gonna put one strip across this bar here, two strips across this split bar here with that oval in the middle, and then a couple of strips on the middle block here. So what we're going to do, roll this out and just measure up approximately how long we need that to be. I got my wire cutters here. I think that's pretty easy to use. Snip that off, peel off the red 3M tape backing, and then we're gonna stick it into place. All right, now that we have the 3M tape in place, we can go ahead and put this on the front end on that bumper crash bracket. All right, guys. Now, before we put this on, I did want to quickly point something out. Now, in the kit, there is a role of vinyl precut for this specific bracket here. Now, this support can be black vinyl over top just to blend in a little bit more once everything is installed. It is completely optional though. Ours, of course, is Race Red, so we will see a little bit of this top Race Red bracket. We will see a little bit of this Race Red coming through with that bracket once we have the bumper installed. I don't particularly mind it. I don't think we want to install that vinyl, but if you did want to install it and you don't want to see the color of your car shining through, that is optional. It's in the kit. You can install that vinyl straight across here, and there's instructions included in the kit to help you along the way with that. Depending on your car color, if you have a black Mustang or if you have a darker colored Mustang, charcoal gray, things of that nature, if you have those, you might not be interested in installing that vinyl. In our particular case, we're gonna go ahead and skip that, but if you are gonna install it, now is the time. With that said, we're just gonna go straight to installing this onto the front of that, so we're gonna line this up here, making sure this is where we want it. Once that's in place, we're gonna put pressure all around that 3M, making sure it sticks in. It only goes on one way really. So once you have it in place and it feels like it snaps in, you can start moving on. From here, pressure on the sides. Same thing over here. Perfect. At this point, we can grab our bumper and start installing it back in. All right. With the front end clipped on, we have it set into place. We're gonna go back into the corners here and make sure that the fender and the bumper meets up and the studs go through those open holes. Perfect. All right, from here what we're going to do is bolt up the top end under the hood, put the radiator shroud back in place. We'll raise the car up in the air just a little bit in order to gain access to the wheel wells, and then we'll bolt it down from there as well. Next, under the hood, we're gonna grab our 8-millimeter bolts that go right across the center here underneath where that shroud went. Just gonna tighten those down straight across, and then we'll come back to the edges. If you remember, those are 5 1/2 millimeters. All right, now I'm gonna switch out that 8-millimeter deep socket for the 5 1/2 millimeter short socket and tackle the one on each corner. Perfect. Now we can drop on our radiator shroud. For this, we're gonna use those plastic rivets that we took off in the beginning. Now we can put the car up in the air and do the 2 10-millimeter nuts in the wheel wells. From here we're going to pull back our wheel well liner, push that stud block into place, gripping that front bumper to our fender, and we're gonna install that 10-millimeter nut. There's one in the front and one a little bit further back. You might have to hold the bumper up and push it into place and then tighten everything down with your fingers to get it to hold itself in the proper position. Do the same thing for both of those nuts. Grab that 10-millimeter socket and your ratchet, and tighten them down. Once you have those two tightened up, you want to put your wheel well liner back into place, pushing that all the way in. Grab that plastic rivet, and you can put that back down here to hold the liner in place. Once you have those 10-millimeter nuts tightened down, come down here to this open hole on the wheel well liner and insert that plastic rivet in order to hold itself in place. Go right in, push down. Now we can repeat the whole process to the other side.There's essentially three more steps left in the process. Plug in your driver's side fog light, your passenger side fog light, and then install your belly pan. So we're over here on the passenger side. We're just gonna pop this fog light harness back upward and you'll hear a click, setting that back in place. Same thing on the driver's side. Just picking up that harness, setting it right back into the factory clip on the back of the fog light. Hear that snap. Now we can pick up our belly pan, lay this in place, and reinstall all the bolts and the push pins. All right, now we can reinstall that belly pan by sliding it up into place above that chin spoiler. In order to hold it up, I'm gonna reinstall two of those push pins that are on each side. All right. Now we want to fold this out to make sure it's on the inside of the mud flap, as well as the inside of that chin spoiler. Well, guys, with the belly pan back in place, that's going to wrap up my review and install of the Cervini's C-Series, upper and lower grille combo available in the combo set or as individual pieces for the 2018 and newer GT and EcoBoost Mustang. If you're interested in getting this kit, whether it be together or individually, you can pick yours up right here at

    Product Information

    Features, Description, Reviews, Q&A, Specs & Installation


    • Performance C-Series Inspired Styling
    • Increases Airflow Directly into Your Engine Bay
    • Grille’s Honeycomb Structure Prevents Debris from Coming In
    • Durable Polyurethane Construction
    • Matte Black Finish
    • Direct Replacement for OE Grilles
    • Lifetime Warranty
    • Fits 2018-2022 Ford Mustang GT and EcoBoost Models


    Performance C-Series Styling. The Cervini's C-Series Grille injects your 2018-2022 Ford Mustang with style and utility, helping to increase airflow directly into your engine bay. Its construction and impressive open surface area feature a matte black finish along with double-layered polyurethane construction for long-lasting durability on the street or off-road.

    Ready for Punishment. This upper grille’s honeycomb structure also prevents debris and obstacles from hitting your engine. This unit is proudly made in the U.S.A.

    Installation Process. As a direct fit upgrade for your factory lower grille, this Cervini's C-Series grille is an easy swap and include a mesh screen to keep debris from getting into your engine bay. The grilles can be installed using basic hand tools and can easily be completed in your driveway in about an hour or two.

    Warranty. This product is protected by a lifetime warranty, which covers purchasers from any defects in materials and workmanship. Any extensive modifications or abnormal wear will not be included.

    The Cervini's C-Series Grille is designed for the 2018-2022 Ford Mustang GT and EcoBoost.

    CA Residents: WARNING: Cancer and Reproductive Harm -

    Installation & What's in the Box

    Installation Info

    What's in the Box

    Combo Kit Option:

    • (1) Replacement Upper Grille
    • (1) Replacement Lower Grille
    • Mounting Hardware

    Upper Grille Option:

    • (1) Replacement Upper Grille
    • Mounting Hardware

    Lower Grille Option:

    • (1) Replacement Lower Grille
    • Mounting Hardware

    Customer Reviews (35)

      Questions & Answers

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