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Eibach Sportline Lowering Springs (11-14 Mustang GT, V6)

Item 47808
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$330.00

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      Video Review & Installation

      Justin: If you're looking for one of the biggest drops possible with the lowering spring on your '11 to '14 GT or V6, well, then look no further than the Eibach Sportlines that we have here today. Now, these springs will drop your early S197 just over an inch up front and nearly 2 inches in the rear, while the progressive spring rate will maintain a relatively comfortable on-road experience. Now, price point for the highly-rated Eibachs will live in that mid-$300 range, while the install's gonna get a soft three-out-of-three wrenches on the difficulty meter, take about 4 hours, half a day or so to get everything in place from start to finish.But as always, guys, hang with me for a bit. I'll walk you through this job later in the video. So the Eibach Sportlines have always been one of my go-to choices for Mustang owners who wanna go low and wanna stick with a lowering spring. Now, because of that, they were a no-brainer for my best-of-list for the lowering spring category for all '11 to '14 cars.Now, that's because they consistently offer one of the biggest drops in the spring category, and that certainly is the case here, again, when we're talking about the S197. Now, the specific drops will vary a little bit, guys, depending on your car. For instance, V6s will see 1.1 inches in the front, 1.7-inch drop in the rear. GT Coupe owners will see 1.3-inch drop in the front, 2 inches in the rear. And then finally, guys, convertible owners will see about 1.4 inches in the front, 1.5 inches in the back.Now, if you notice, the Sportlines, for the most part, do offer a bigger drop in the rear compared to other options on the site that might maybe drop the car evenly on all four corners. Now that big drop in the rear will make for more of a leveled look eliminating some of the nose-down rake, which some people do like while others might prefer the old-school muscle car stance with the rear end a little bit higher.Now, regardless of what stance you prefer, that big drop will certainly improve different things like your appearance, for instance, by eliminating that factory 4x4 stance, along with that ugly wheel and tyre gap, which let's face it guys, can sometimes make or break the entire car. Now, in addition to that, lowering your car will also improve different areas of your performance thanks to that lower center of gravity and firmer spring rate.Now, for instance, the car might feel a little bit more confident in the turns, thanks to less body roll. Shouldn't really nose dive as hard when you're breaking and really shouldn't squat as much when you're accelerating hard out of the hole. But speaking of spring rates here, guys, the Sportlines do again feature that progressive spring rate. And that's something you're gonna see with a majority of the aftermarket springs in the category, say for maybe a few hardcore performance springs, which we'll use a more linear rate.Now, the deal here is that these progressive springs with the Eibach Sportlines will progressively firm up the harder they are compressed. Now, this way you're getting slightly softer initial spring rate here, guys, a little bit more comfortable. But once you really start rolling over onto those firmer rates, the springs start firming up a bit, and then, at that point, you're gonna start reducing some of that body roll that we mentioned earlier.Now, as far as your exact spring rates are concerned, well, owners will be looking at a starting rate of 183 pounds for the fronts, while the rears will range from 103 pounds on that initial rate all the way up to 217 pounds. As you can see, guys, Eibach does also kick in some brand new shorter bump stops, which will be used to take place of your stockers.Now, there are a couple of things to consider here, additional things. First and foremost, throwing this aggressive of a spring on the stock high-mileage shock and strut can be a recipe for disaster, in my opinion. The ride quality is certainly not gonna be the best. And I can almost guarantee that over time, you'll probably end up blowing out your factory dampers, again, if they are high mileage and just beat to begin with.Now, with that being said, probably not a bad idea to consider a new strut, new shock, even just fresh OE stuff, or checking out ideally an aftermarket option such as a Koni, for instance, that might be better suited to handle the lower ride height along with the firmer spring rate of the Eibach. Secondly, guys, because these springs do offer such a big drop, you might wanna consider a set of caster camber plates or camber bolts, at least up front, along with the adjustable Panhard bar in the rear.When you drop the rear of the car this low, again, that solid rear axle and that fixed-length Panhard bar does have the tendency to shift that axle to one side. So with that in mind, again, not a bad idea to consider an adjustable Panhard bar to recenter that rear axle after this big drop.But enough about all that, what do you say we switch gears and get into the installation process? Again, site's gonna call this one a soft three-out-of-three wrenches on the difficulty meter here, guys, about four hours or so to knockout from start to finish. Listen, if you've done springs before on an S197, it's really not that bad. The fronts will no doubt be the more time-consuming part of the install. The rears, well, you're simply just gonna drop those sway bar end links, drop the rear axle altogether, pop the rear springs out, throw in the new Eibachs in reverse order, and you're good to go.But to give you a better idea of just how things will go down at home, feel free to check out our detailed walkthrough and tool breakdown now.Man: Tools used for this installation, 3/8 electric impact gun, 1/4-inch drive ratchet, clip removal tool, ratcheting wrench, 18-millimeter wrench, 13/16 socket, 1/4-inch drive 10-millimeter, 8, 10, 13, 15, and 21-millimeter sockets, and 1/2-inch drive impact gun. Hey, guys, I'm gonna walk you through the installation of our Eibach lowering springs on our '14 Mustang GT. So let's get started.First thing we're gonna do in our uninstall is we're gonna start by removing the four nuts up top. We're gonna leave two tight. We're gonna come back down and remove two bolts here that hold the strut in. A 10-millimeter we have here for the break hose, a push clip, and then we'll be able to remove the strut, take it over, put it on our spring compressor, and then install our new spring and then come back and install it. So we're gonna jump into it by starting by loosening the bottom bolts, the 10-millimeter, and the four up top.So first thing we're gonna do is I'm gonna take my 18-millimeter, put it on my swaybar nut, and then my 8-millimeter on my 3/8 gun. And I'm gonna remove this nut and remove our sway bar link from our strut.Now we have that out, we're gonna remove our 10-millimeter down here that holds our brake line in place. Next, we're gonna remove our push clip right here. And we'll take my clip removal tool, get behind here, pop this out like that. Then we're gonna take our 10-millimeter on our gun, remove this bolt here for our brake hose. That'll get our brake hose out of the way. Next, we're gonna take our 21-millimeter, remove this nut here, and this nut here. This holds our strut onto our spindle assembly.I'm gonna take my 21-millimeter and my 1/2-inch impact gun and break these two nuts loose. I'm gonna pull one of them out, leave one in for now, and then we'll go up top and remove our four bolts holding the strut into the shock tower. So next step is we're gonna remove our four 13 millimeters up the top. I'm gonna take my 13-millimeter on my 3/8 electric impact gun, remove these four, and then we'll be able to get back down and pull the strut out and remove the last bolt.So I'm gonna leave that in just for now until I remove the bolt down there. And then the strut is just about ready to come out. So next step, I came in here, I'm gonna grab that bolt that I left in. Pull that out, pull the spindle down from the strut. I'm just gonna lift it up, tke off the 13-millimeter that I left on up top, and remove the strut from the car.Now that we have our strut removed from our car, I brought this over to our strut spring compressor. Now, if you're doing this at home and you don't have this tool here, you can use a clamshell spring compressor. Just be very careful. This is under a lot of pressure. So what I'm gonna do is just take the pressure off the spring. And once I get it compressed a little bit and get it off the spring, I'm gonna take my 21-millimeter here. Now, this is a tool that slides over top, holds the nut, and I'm gonna take my 10-millimeter here and get on the top of the strut.Once you get it started, remove our nut, and drop our strut out from underneath. Now, I'm gonna release the spring under pressure so we can take the cap and the strut-bearing top off because we're gonna reuse that portion onto our new lowering spring. And we'll just remove that like that. And this way, we'll put this onto our new spring. So now I installed our bearing cap on top. There's a little notch here that your upper spring goes into. You'll see it rest right up against.I'm going to take the strut and install this back in. Now, on this strut, it also has a groove where the coil's gonna lay. You're gonna see it's gonna stop with the end there. So we'll just line that up, put this up through, get our nuts started, and that'll line up just like that. We'll take our ratchet, put it back on. Once I have it in place, I have the nuts lined up. I'm gonna release the tension on the spring, let it seat down in there. And that's our install of our coil spring into our strut assembly.So now that we have our spring mounted onto our strut, I'm gonna take our strut and put it up into place here, start my 13-millimeter up top, and then start our two bolts on the bottom. Then I have two bolts start up top. I'm gonna take a strut, put it in place, get our bottom bolts in. And once we got them in place, now I can start reinstalling our strut assembly. So now that we have our strut in place, I'm gonna start our two 21-millimeter nuts here.I'm gonna use my 1/2-inch impact gun with my 21-millimeter, tighten these up a while. Now that we have those done, we'll install our brake hose and our sway bar link. And then we'll go back up to the top. So next, we're gonna take our 10-millimeter, reinstall our brake hose here. I'm gonna get that started. Take my 10-millimeter on my 3/8 gun, tighten that up, and then reinstall our push clip here. And once we have those done, now we'll reinstall our sway bar.So now we're gonna take our sway bar, lift up on our strut a little bit, put a nut on, get this started. I'm gonna take my 18-millimeter, hold it on here, and then my 8-millimeter on my electric impact gun. Tighten that up. Now we'll go up and tighten our four 13-millimeters up top. So now we're gonna push down on our strut brace here. I'm gonna start our 13-millimeters. I started two earlier just to hold it in place and I'm gonna put these on now. We're gonna take our 13-millimeter gun or socket on our 3/8 gun, and tighten these up. Now you're gonna just wanna repeat this whole uninstall and install procedure on the other side.Hey, guys, I'm gonna walk you through the steps of uninstall and installing our rear lowering springs. So let's get started. First thing we're gonna do if you're doing this in your driveway, you're gonna wanna jack your car up and support and make sure you get jack stands underneath. I have it on a lift, and we have our pole jacks underneath holding the rear up. What we're gonna do is loosen up our sway bars, take our shock bolts off, remove and lower our shocks, and then we'll drop the rear down and pull the coil springs out.First thing we're gonna do now that we have our rear supported with our pole jacks is we're gonna remove our sway bar bolt here that holds our sway bar link up into place. I'm gonna put my 18-millimeter on the back here and my 15-millimeter on my 3/8 gun. We're gonna remove this bolt here first. Next, we'll remove our shock bolt. So now that I removed our sway bar bolt and I went on the other side, and you're just gonna wanna repeat that same procedure on the other side and remove that bolt. You'll be able to drop your sway bar out of the way, which will give you access to your shock bolt here.So I'm gonna take my 15-millimeter on my 3/8 gun and remove my shock bolt. And now that I got that pulled out, you're gonna wanna repeat that same procedure on the other side. So now that we have our shock bolts out, we have our sway bar off, I'm gonna start lowering our pole jacks down so we can remove our coil spring out from its pocket. I'm just gonna drop it down. And then I'll go on the other side and drop this one down.And once you get it loose enough, you'll be able to pull the coil spring out. And you're just gonna wanna repeat the same procedure on the other side. So now that we have our old coil spring removed, we're going to start by installing our new coil spring. We're gonna take our new lowering spring. We're gonna use the wound coils that are the tighter ones here. That's gonna go up, and these will go to the bottom. So we'll start by installing this back into our car and getting our suspension back together.Now we'll install our coil spring. We're gonna use the tighter section to go up. We'll take it, stick it up into place just like that. Use our pole jack here, jack up on our rear. And we'll make sure it sits in the pocket where it's gotta be. Once it's in place, we'll just jack up on it, get our shock to line up. Now we'll be able to reinstall our suspension. Now we're gonna reinstall our lower shock bolt and our carriage nut. We'll get it started. I'm gonna take my 15-millimeter on my 3/8 gun, tighten it up. Next, we'll reinstall our sway bar.Next, we'll reinstall our sway bar, put our bolt through with our cage now on the back, and take my 15-millimeter on my 3/8 gun again to tighten this one up. And now that we got that on, what you're gonna wanna do, lower your pole jacks down, repeat everything I did on this side on the other side, and our rear installation is finished.That wraps up this review and install of our Eibach Sportline Lowering Springs for '11 to '14 Mustang GT and V6 Mustangs. Thanks for watching. And for all things Mustang, keep it right here at americanmuscle.com.

      Product Information

      Features, Description, Reviews, Q&A, Specs & Installation

      Features

      • Extreme Lowering & Aggressive Stance
      • Race Car Like Handling
      • Lower Center of Gravity
      • Progressive Spring Rate
      • Drops GT Coupe: 1.3 " Front, 2.0" Rear
      • Drops V6 Coupe: 1.1 " Front, 1.7" Rear
      • Drops GT, V6 Convertibles: 1.4" Front, 1.5" Rear
      • Fits 2011-2014 GT and V6 Mustangs
      • Clears Stock and Aftermarket Wheels & Tires.

      Description

      Better Handling. Give your Mustang the sports car type handling it deserves with an Eibach Sportline Spring Kit. This lowering spring kit lowers your Mustang's ride and center of gravity even more than the legendary Eibach Pro-Kit, for maximum improvement in acceleration, cornering, and braking performance. A set of Eibach Sportline springs are the no-compromise choice for the enthusiast that still needs a streetable car.

      Maximum Lowering.
      Eibach's Sportline Spring Kits are designed to deliver the lowest possible drop for a racecar like look and handling while still maintaining exceptional ride quality.

      Progressive Design.
      Eibach uses their proprietary progressive spring design to create the Sportline springs. The result is a spring that delivers the maximum lowering and aggressive stance a true enthusiast demands, without compromising safety or ride quality.

      Clears Stock and Aftermarket Wheels & Tires.
      These lowering springs were engineered to be compatible with your stock size wheels and tires, as well as AmericanMuscle's pre-configured wheel and tire combo kits (specific to your generation), to assure proper clearance with no rubbing issues.

      Application.
      . This set of Eibach Sportline springs is designed for 2011-2014 Mustang GT & V6 coupes and convertibles. Sold as a set of four. Specifications:
      • 2011-2014 GT Coupe
        • Lowers Front: 1.3"
        • Lowers Rear: 2.0"
      • 2011-2014 GT Convertible
        • Lowers Front: 1.4"
        • Lowers Rear: 1.5"
      • 2011-2014 V6 Coupe
        • Lowers Front: 1.1"
        • Lowers Rear: 1.7"
      • 2011-2014 V6 Convertible
        • Lowers Front: 1.4"
        • Lowers Rear: 1.5"

      Fitment:

      Details

      Eibach 4.12535

      CA Residents: WARNING: Cancer and Reproductive Harm - www.P65Warnings.ca.gov

      Installation & What's in the Box

      Installation Info

      What's in the Box

      • (4) Lowering Springs

      Tech Specs

      Springs Specifications
      Spring Rate: Front: 183 lb/in.
      Rear: 103-217 lb/in.
      Usage: Street/Track
      Year: 2011-2014 GT & V6 Model: Coupe
      Convertible
      Progressive or Standard: Progressive Estimated Drop: GT Coupe: 1.3" F / 2.0" R
      GT 'Vert: 1.4" F/ 1.5" R
      V6 Coupe: 1.1" F / 1.7" R
      V6 'Vert: 1.4" F/ 1.5" R
      4.9

      Customer Reviews (100+)

        Questions & Answers

        10 More Questions

        Will It Fit My Mustang

        • Boss 302 - 12, 13
        • GT - 11, 12, 13, 14
        • V6 - 11, 12, 13, 14

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