(approx) 2 Hours
Light to Moderate mechanical skill required.
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Jake: Jake here for American Muscle, and today, I've got the MBRP Installer Series Cat-Back Race Version Exhaust for 2016 and newer manual transmission Camaro SSs with the NPP Dual Mode Exhaust. If your Camaro SS came stock with that dual-mode exhaust, but you're looking to add a much more aggressive tone and more volume for a race-inspired touch, MBRP has got you covered. This cat-back system adds that volume and a nice subtle visual flare all at a very reasonable price. It's an excellent option if you want more noise while keeping it budget-friendly.Now, the LT1 in the Camaro makes a great noise right out of the gate, but if you want some more volume, getting rid of that stock exhaust setup is certainly gonna help. Now, since this is a full cat-back, it is going to eliminate your stock muffler and your resonators, and that means, as you heard from the clips at the beginning of the video, the tone is aggressive and it's loud, loud enough, in fact, to get a five out of five on our loudness meter.Now, the look here might be kind of subtle, but the sound certainly is not. So, if you're looking for that full-on race car-inspired sound, look no further, because this is MBRP'S race profile, meaning that it's gonna have that serious volume to it much more so than their other setups. Outside of the car, again, you're getting that loud aggressive exhaust note, and inside you're gonna get quite a bit more volume as well. However, you aren't gonna get lots of drone like you might with some other exhaust, thanks to no small part to these resonators right here. Now, these are known as Helmholtz resonators or J-pipes more commonly, and they're not something we see very often on aftermarket exhaust. It's typically something that only shows up on a custom setup. Now, the premise here is that these basically cancel out the frequencies that cause that droning sound without affecting the overall tone or volume of your exhaust. It's a great best-of-both-worlds sort of deal, and having these is a really cool feature that I haven't seen on many other exhausts on the market.Now, this setup also includes an X-pipe, which is also not something that you're gonna find on a lot of other systems. Now, X-pipes help even out exhaust pulses caused by uneven firing orders like you find on traditional pushrod V8s such as the LT1. This is also gonna help even out the exhaust pressure, which all combines to eliminate exhaust drone in the cabins. So, between this and the resonators, you're gonna get the noise that you want without all the drone that usually comes along with a setup like this. Now, the piping here is all 3-inch mandrel bent aluminized stainless steel. So, it's gonna allow the exhaust gases to flow smoothly and provide some protection against the elements as well.This is also a great option from an aesthetics perspective if you want a bit more of a subtle upgrade to the look of your exhaust. The biggest part of that, of course, are these 4-inch tips. Now, these are dual wall polished T304 stainless, and they have very similar angle cut to your factory exhaust. They've also got the MBRP logo stamped into the edge here and the staggered setup, they're gonna mount just like this, means that they will be pretty much flush with the bottom of your bumper. So, it's gonna give a nice, tasteful look when installed. These are also a little bit bigger than your stock ones, so it's gonna be just different enough for people to know that it's not stock. But only the eagle-eyed are gonna spot this difference at first glance. They're much more likely to hear it.Now, price-wise, this setup is gonna run you around $875, and for a full cat-back system for the Camaro SS, that's about the most inexpensive option available. MBRP has been well known for making good quality exhaust at a really affordable price. This one combines some really standout features like the resonators, that X-pipe, all at a more palatable price than some other options in the category. Now, of course, you're not getting the full-fat active exhaust here, which is a part of the cost savings, and you're not getting necessarily the highest grade material, but I think what you are getting more than justifies the price.As far as installation goes, this one, like most exhausts, will get a two out of three on our difficulty meter, and it should take you around two hours to get it all done. Now, everything you need, including new clamps and hardware, is included in the box. However, there are two things to note here. One is that the stock system on a Camaro SS is not a bolt-together setup, so you are gonna need to make two cuts in order to remove that stock system from the car. However, those cuts are easy to do and you get instructions on how to measure everything out right in the box. You're also gonna need to unbolt those active exhaust valves and get them out of the way. But again, once you get these two things completed, your new system will just bolt right on and use all the stock hanger locations.Now, if you've done an exhaust in your driveway before, you know it can be a little bit fiddly, but this one, even with the cutting is still not that hard to do, it's definitely something that you can accomplish at home in your driveway. And to show you how to get that done, let's head over to the install bay right now.Man: Tools required for this install include an impact gun, a ratchet, a marker, a tape measure, a 5/16ths ratcheting wrench, an 8-mill Allen, a 3/8ths to 1/4-inch adapter, a 7, 13, and 15-millimeter sockets, an electric ratchet, pair of safety glasses, an exhaust hanger remover tool, a Sawzall and a grinder. What's up, guys? Today, we're gonna be installing an exhaust on our Camaro, so let's get started.So, our first step to removing our exhaust is gonna be to disconnect our valves. Now, these are gonna be found on the outside of each side tip, so we'll get the harness, press the tab and disconnect them. Now, our first step's gonna be to disconnect the wiring harness to our valve controller. So, to do that, we're gonna remove these two 7-millimeter bolts to clear up some access. You're gonna have to take these out later on eventually because we're gonna have to slide our exhaust back this way and the valves are gonna slide under this. So, I'll get a 7-millimeter socket to get these off, and then we can push that back out of the way and then reach in there and disconnect our wire harness. And then we'll do that same thing on the other side.So, the factory exhaust system has six hangers. We have two here, two here, and then two by our tips. So, we're gonna remove the inner four here, that way, we can still have our two hangers in the back holding our exhaust up while we disconnect our flanges up front. So, we can get the two on our passenger side first. So, I'll grab an exhaust hanger remover tool and pop off these isolators. And then, on this one, the hanger on our pipe's a little longer than the one from our chassis, so we'll pop off our top isolator, and then we can pop it off at the bottom and slide it back on the top. Now we can do the same thing on our driver's side.Now, our next step is to remove our brace here. We have five 13-millimeter bolts holding that in, so I'll get 13-millimeter socket on an impact gun to get these off. Now, our next step's gonna be to disconnect our O2 sensors on both sides. Now, you can do this either by unscrewing the O2 sensor or simply just unplugging the harness. We're gonna unplug the harness. So, there's a white tab that you're gonna push up and then push in and then it'll separate our connector. So, we'll take our white tab, push up on it, and then we can press down and slide our connector up. Now, this side's gonna be the same thing, just a little deeper in there. Pull back on that tab and then disconnect our connector.So, now we can work on our two flanges. We'll get those disconnected with a 15-millimeter socket. I've got a pole jack here to hold the exhaust in place so it doesn't drop down once we disconnect it. And then, once we have our two flanges disconnected, we'll grab a buddy to help us pull the whole exhaust out of the car. So, now on this side, we don't have much clearance, so I'm gonna get a 15-millimeter socket with a ratchet on this side, and then we can use our impact gun on this side. So, I've got some penetrating lubricant I sprayed on here just to make it a little bit easier to get these off. Now, on this side, we can use a 15-millimeter socket on an impact gun to loosen this clamp.So now I have a pole jack set up underneath our muffler to keep it in place, and then we're gonna be removing the two bolts on our hanger on both sides to release the muffler. So now we can take a 15-millimeter socket on a ratchet to get our two nuts off, and then we'll do that same thing on the other side. So now would be a good time to grab yourself a buddy, and you can take one end while your buddy takes the others, and then we'll just simply slide it out and remove it from the car.So now with the exhaust removed from our car, we can take our valves off, and we'll be using a 5/16th-inch ratcheting wrench to remove this. And then, we can repeat that same process on the other side. And now we can remove our final two hangers on our stock exhaust using an exhaust hanger remover tool. So now for this kit, you're gonna have to cut your factory exhaust. So, we're gonna need on the driver's side 1.7 inches of straight pipe and on the passenger side 2.1 inches of straight pipe. So, it'd be a good time to grab your tape measure and your marker and we can measure out where our cuts will be made. So now we're gonna start on our passenger side. So, once again, we want 2.1 inches of straight pipe. So, instead of measuring from the weld here, we're gonna come out to about right here where our pipe straightens out. We'll get a tape measure down there and then we can mark right around 2.1 inches here.Now, on our driver's side, we need 1.7 inches of straight pipe so it comes out pretty straight right here behind the weld. So, we'll start our tape measure there and mark down 1.7 inches. So now with our lines laid down for where we're gonna make our cuts, you can grab whatever cutting tool you'd like, we're gonna use a Sawzall, and we can make our cuts. So now once we have our cuts made, we can go ahead and come over to the grinder and clean up our edges. So, our first step's gonna be to mount our valve actuators to our brackets. Now, this system allows you to retain your valve so that you can plug it in and not get any check engine lights. However, there are no actual valves in this system, so using sport mode to track and to your normal driving won't change your sound at all with this setup. So, we can lay our bracket down on top of our actuator and then grab our 5/16ths bolts and thread them into the holes. Then, we'll do that same thing on this side. And then I'll take a 5/16th ratcheting wrench to tighten these bolts down.So now we can reinstall our valve actuator. So, we'll reconnect our wire harness, and then this is gonna sandwich in between our diffuser and this metal heat shield, and then we can reuse our factory 7-millimeter bolt, and then we can take our 7-millimeter socket to tighten these down. And then we can repeat that same process on the other side. So now with our cuts made and our edges cleaned up, we can reinstall our secondary cats. So, we'll get it on here, get our nuts back in place, tighten those down, and then we can reconnect our O2 sensor. And then, we can take our 15-millimeter socket to tighten our nuts down. And I'll get a normal hand ratchet on the other side. I don't have a lot of clearance. And then, with our nuts tightened down, we can reconnect our O2 sensor, and then we'll push that white clip back in to lock it into place.Now, on our driver's side, we can reconnect our O2 sensor. So, we didn't end up having to take that out. And then, we'll click that white pin back into place on this side as well. So now on the other side, we take our driver's side secondary cat, slide that over the edge, and then we can get a 15-millimeter socket on our clamp to tighten that down. So now we can install our driver's side front pipe. So, we're gonna take a 2 3/4-inch clamp, we'll slide that over the edge here, and we can slide it into our secondary cat, and then we can slide our clamp into position and we can tighten that down with a 15-millimeter socket.And now we can install our passenger side front pipe. So, we'll take another 2 3/4-inch clamp, slide it over the edge, and then lift our pipe up into place. And now once we have our front pipe and our clamp in position, we can take a 15-millimeter socket to tighten down our clamp. So now we can take our X-pipe, and we'll slide two 3-inch clamps over each side, and then we can get this onto our front pipes. And then, once we have our X-pipe in place, we'll just slide our clamps into position and tighten those down with that same 15-millimeter socket. Next, we can take our passenger side tailpipe and grab another 3-inch clamp, slide that into place, and then we'll install our hanger into our isolator. And now we can slide our clamp into position, adjust that tailpipe, and then taking a 15-millimeter socket, we'll tighten down that clamp. Now we can do that same thing with our driver's side tailpipe. So now we can take another one of our 3-inch clamps, slide that over our tailpipe, and then grab our Y-pipe and wiggle that into place.Now we can connect our Y-pipe into our hanger, and then we can slide our clamp into position, and we'll tighten that down with our 15-millimeter socket. Now we're gonna take the hanger that we uninstalled earlier and we can slide that on and then lift our tips so that they line up with our studs. And then, once we have that over the studs, we can reinstall our factory 15-millimeter nuts. Now we can take a 15-millimeter socket to tighten down our nuts. So now we can install our tips. So, to make it easier to get a tool in here, we're gonna do the innermost tip first. So, slide that over and then get an 8-millimeter Allen bit to tighten this down. And then we'll install our outer tip.And now once we have our Y-pipe and tips installed on one side, we can do that same thing on the other side. Now we can reinstall our driveshaft tunnel brace. We'll be reinstalling our factory 13-millimeter bolts, and then we can take our 13-millimeter socket to tighten down these bolts.So, that'll wrap up this review and install of the MBRP Installer Series Cat-Back Race Version for your 2016 and newer Camaro SS Coupe with Manual Transmission and NPP Dual Mode Exhaust. Thank you for watching, and remember, for all things Camaro, keep it right here at americanmuscle.com.
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Features, Description, Reviews, Q&A, Specs & Installation
|Exhaust System Type||Cat-Back System|
|Exhaust System Material||Aluminized Steel|
|Exhaust System Tip Finish||Chrome, Polished|
|Exhaust System Tubing Diameter||3.00 Inch|
Aggressive Exhaust Note. Add an aggressive exhaust note to the sound of your Camaro's exhaust with a MBRP Installer Series Cat-Back Exhaust - Race Version System. This Race Cat-Back Exhaust features specially tuned resonators that will produce an aggressive exhaust note under acceleration, but a mellow tone at idle. Besides an increase in sound, this MBRP Race Cat-Back, with its full mandrel bent piping, will reduce restrictions giving your Camaro a more free-flowing exhaust for gains in both power and performance.
Quality Construction. MBRP proudly manufactures their Installer Series Cat-Back Exhaust Systems from 3-inch diameter, mandrel-bent, heavy duty aluminized 16-gauge steel tubing for excellent exhaust flow and corrosion resistance. Besides the crossover X-pipe, the system features quad, 4-inch polished T-409 stainless steel exhaust tips with embossed MBRP logo.
Application. This MBRP Installer Series Cat-Back Exhaust; Race Version is designed to fit 2016-2023 Chevrolet Camaro SS Coupe with Manual Transmission and NPP Dual Mode Exhaust.
CA Residents: WARNING: Cancer and Reproductive Harm - www.P65Warnings.ca.gov
(approx) 2 Hours
Light to Moderate mechanical skill required.
What's in the Box
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