(approx) 3 Hours
Light to Moderate mechanical skill required.
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Jake: Jake here for AmericanMuscle. And today, I've got the MBRP XP Series Cat-Back Race Version Exhaust for 2016 and Newer Manual Transmission Camaro SSs with the NPP Dual Mode Exhaust. If you're looking to get some raucous good sound out of your Camaro SS without blowing out the budget completely, MBRP has got you covered here. The XP Series Cat-Back sort of adds that volume that you're looking for with some cool features and a nice subtle visual flair all for a really reasonable price. It's an excellent option for you if you wanna get more noise while keeping it budget-friendly.Now, since this is a full cat-back setup, it is going to eliminate your stock mufflers and resonators. And that means, as you heard from the clips at the beginning of the video, the tone is aggressive and it is loud, loud enough, in fact, to get a five out of five on our loudness meter. The look here might be kind of subtle, but the sound certainly is not. So if you're looking for that full-on race car-inspired sound, look no further. Because this is MBRP's race profile, that means that it's gonna have some serious volume to it, much more so than their street profile setups.Now, outside of the car, again, you're gonna get that loud, aggressive muscle car-type exhaust note. Now, at idle, it almost sounds like the car is cammed. You get a tiny hint of that lope tube, which I think is really cool. And inside, you're gonna get quite a bit more volume as well. However, you won't get a lot of drone like you might with other aftermarket exhausts. There's a couple of tricks that MBRP has up their sleeves for it. Now, these are what are known as Helmholtz resonators or J-pipes, hence the shape. And they're not something that we see very often on aftermarket exhausts. It's only become more prevalent recently. Now, it's typically something that would only show up on a custom setup before.And the premise here is basically that these are gonna cancel out the frequencies that cause that droning sound without affecting the overall tone or volume of the exhaust because this is a resonator and not a muffler. So it's not gonna change the actual sound of the exhaust. It's just gonna help eliminate some of those weird reverberations that you get. Now, it's a great best-of-both-worlds sort of deal. And having these is a really cool feature that I haven't seen a ton out on the market yet. Something that we are starting to see a little bit more of, though, are X-pipes, which this system also includes. Now, X-pipes are really great because they help even out the exhaust pulses that are caused by uneven firing orders like you find in a traditional pushrod V8 such as the LT1. With the crossover in the middle here, this also helps even out exhaust pressure.All that combines to help eliminate the exhaust thrown in the cabin. So between this and those resonators, you're gonna get the noise that you want without all of the annoying drum that usually comes with it. Now, up until this point, you're probably thinking that this is basically the same as MBRP's Installer Series. And you'd be forgiven for thinking that. Now, the sound profile is very, very similar but the construction is really where the difference lies. This piping is all 3-inch mandrel bent T409 stainless steel as opposed to the alumina stainless steel that they use in the Installer Series. So it's still gonna allow that smooth exhaust gas flow and the material is gonna have better corrosion and rust resistance, especially if you live in drier climates.Now, again, as compared to MBRP's own Installer Series, this one is gonna feature slightly better material quality, better overall looks, and durability, but it's gonna keep the same overall setup. You even might have noticed that the welds on this look pretty great. So, again, this is gonna keep that same overall setup with the resonators in the X-pipe, the tips, and that 3-inch mandrel bent tubing. So, again, gonna allow for great exhaust flow and provide some good protection against the elements a little bit more so than the less expensive option. Now, this is also a great option from an aesthetics perspective as you might have picked up on already. If you want a bit of a subtle upgrade to the look your exhaust, this is gonna be great for you. And the biggest part of that aesthetic upgrade are these quad 4-inch tips.So these are dual wall T304 stainless and they're polished to an almost mirror finish. They have a similar angle cut to your factory exhaust and they've also got the MBRP logo stamped into the edge here. Now, the staggered setup means that they're gonna mount pretty much flush with the bottom of your bumper. It's gonna look a lot like your factory exhaust. So it's gonna give a nice bit of a tasteful look when it's installed, but it's just different enough that you'll be able to tell that it's not stock. These are a little bit bigger than the original tips on your exhaust. And, again, they keep that polished chrome look, so only the eagle-eyed are going to spot the difference at first glance.Let's be honest, they're much more likely to hear it. Now, price-wise, this setup is coming in around $1,100 for a full cat-back system for the Camaro SS. This is still one of the least expensive options available. MBRP has made a name for themselves by making good quality exhaust with great sound at an affordable price. And this one is no exception. It is a pretty good quality. The welds look great and the tips are awesome too. It does come in a bit higher than MBRP's own Installer Series, kind of like we were talking about earlier, and that, again, is due to the better materials that you have here. This T409 is great for a build that is a bit more budget-focused, but somebody who wants to have a piece that's gonna last a long time. And, again, you're far undercutting some of the other options in the category too.So you get pretty good material quality, the resonators, the X-pipe, the nice tips, all makes for awesome sound, a great aesthetic, and a pleasant driving experience. And for the price, I really don't think that you can go wrong with any of that. Keep in mind that you are gonna be losing the active exhaust with this, which is part of the cost savings, but I do think that it still justifies the price for what you're getting here.As far as installation goes, this one like, most exhausts, is gonna get a two out of three on our difficulty meter. And you should plan on it taking around three hours to get everything completed. Now, everything you need, including new clamps and hardware is included in the box. However, it is worth noting that since the stock system on the Camaro SS is not a bolt-together setup, you are going to need to make some cuts in order to remove that stock system.However, there are only two of them to do, and they're very easy. You also get instructions on how to measure it out inside of the box. You're also gonna have to unbolt your active exhaust valves. But once that's done, this new system is gonna just bolt right in. Again, you get all new hardware included in the kit. And this uses all the factory exhaust hanger locations, so you don't need to modify anything else. Now, if you've done an exhausting your driveway before, you know it can be a little bit fiddly just because of the lack of space. But even with the cutting that is involved here, this is absolutely something you can do at home. And to show you how to do it, let's head over to the install bay right now.Man: Tools required for this install include an impact gun, a ratchet, a marker, a tape measure, a 5/16 ratcheting wrench, an 8-mil Allen, a 3/8t to 1/4-inch adapter, a 7-millimeter, 13-millimeter, and 15-millimeter sockets, an electric ratchet, pair of safety glasses, an exhaust hanger remover tool, a Sawzall, and a grinder.What's up, guys? Today we're gonna be installing an exhaust on our Camaro. So let's get started. So our first step to removing our exhaust is gonna be to disconnect our valves. Now, these are gonna be found on the outside of each side tip. So we'll get the harness, press the tab, and disconnect them. So now, our first step is gonna be to disconnect the wiring harness to our valve controller. So, to do that, we're gonna remove these two 7-millimeter bolts to clear up some access. You're gonna have to take these out later on, eventually, because we're gonna have to slide our exhaust back this way, and the valves are gonna slide under this. So I'll get a 7-millimeter socket to get these off.Now we can push that back out of the way, and then reach in there, and disconnect our wire harness. And then we'll do that same thing on the other side. So the factory exhaust system has six hangers. We have two here, two here, and then two by our tips. So we're gonna remove the inner four here, that way we can still have our two hangers in the back holding our exhaust up while we disconnect our flanges up front. So we can get the two on our passenger side first. So I'll grab an exhaust hanger remover tool, pop off these isolator.And then on this one, the hanger on our pipe's a little longer than the one from our chassis. So we'll pop off our top isolator, and then we can pop it off at the bottom, and slide it back on the top. Now we can do the same thing on our driver side. Now, our next step is to remove our brace here. We have five 13-millimeter bolts holding that in. So I'll get a 13-millimeter socket on an impact gun to get these off.Now, our next step is gonna be to disconnect our 02 sensors on both sides. You can do this either by unscrewing the 02 sensor or simply just unplugging the harness. We're gonna unplug the harness. So there's a white tab that you're gonna push up and then push in, and then it'll separate or connect. We'll take our white tab, push up on it, and then we can press down and slide our connector up. Now, this side is gonna be the same thing, just a little deeper in there, pull back on that tab, and then disconnect our connector.So now we can work on our two flanges. We'll get those disconnected with a 15-millimeter socket. I've got a pole jack here to hold the exhaust in place so it doesn't drop down once we disconnect it. And then once we have our two flanges disconnected, we'll grab a buddy to help us pull the whole exhaust out of the car. So, now, on this side, we don't have much clearance, so I'm gonna get a 15-millimeter socket with a ratchet on this side, and then we can use our impact gun on this side. I've got some penetrating lubricant sprayed on here just to make it a little bit easier to get these off.Now, on this side, we can use a 15-millimeter socket on an impact gun to loosen this clamp. So now, I have a pole jack setup underneath our muffler to keep it in place, and then we're gonna be removing the two bolts on our hanger on both sides to release the muffler. So now, we can take a 15-millimeter socket on a ratchet to get our two nuts off. And then we'll do that same thing on the other side. So now would be a good time to grab yourself a buddy. And you can take one end while your buddy takes the others, and then we'll just simply slide it out and remove it from the car.So now, with the exhaust removed from our car, we can take our valves off. Now, we'll be using a 5/16-inch ratcheting wrench to remove this. And then we can repeat that same process on the other side. And now we can remove our final two hangers on our stock exhaust using an exhaust hanger remover tool.So now, for this kit, you're gonna have to cut your factory exhaust. So we're gonna need, on the driver side, 1.7 inches of straight pipe and on the passenger side, 2.1 inches of straight pipe. So if you got time to grab your tape measure and your marker, then we can measure out where cuts will be made. So now we're gonna start on our passenger side. So once again, we want 2.1 inches of straight pipe. So instead of measuring from the weld here, we're gonna come out to about right here where our pipe straightens out. We'll get a tape measure down there. And then we can mark around 2.1 inches here.Now, on our driver side, we need 1.7 inches of straight pipe. So it comes out pretty straight right here behind the weld. So we'll start our tape measure there and mark down 1.7 inches. So now with our lines laid down for where we're gonna make our cuts, you can grab whatever cutting tool you'd like. We're gonna use a Sawzall, and we can make our cuts.So, now, once we have our cuts made, we can go ahead and come over to the grinder and clean up our edges.Now, with our cuts made and our edges cleaned up, we can reinstall our secondary cats. So we'll get it on here, get our nuts back in place, tighten those down, and then we can reconnect our 02 sensor.Then we can take our 15-millimeter socket to tighten our nuts down. And I'll get a normal hand ratchet on the other side. We don't have a lot of clearance. Now, on our driver side, we can reconnect our 02 sensor so we didn't end up having to take that out. And it'll click that white pin back into place on this side as well. So now on the other side, you're gonna take our driver-side secondary cat, slide that over the edge, and then we can get a 15-millimeter socket on our clamp to tighten that down.So now, we can install our driver-side front pipe. It's gonna take a 2-inch and 3-1/4-inch clamp. I'll slide that over the edge here. And we can slide it into our secondary cat, and then we can slide our clamps into position. And we can tighten that down with a 15-millimeter socket. And now, we can install our passenger-side front pipe. So we'll take another 2-inch and 3-1/4-inch clamp, slide it over the edge, and then lift our pipe up into place. And now, once we have our front pipe and our clamp in position, we can take a 15-millimeter socket to tighten down our clamp.So now, we can take our X-pipe and we'll slide 2-inch, 3-inch clamps over each side and then we can get this onto our front pipes. And then once we have our X-pipe in place, we'll just slide our clamps into position and tighten those down with that same 15-millimeter socket. So our first step is gonna be to mount our valve actuators to our brackets. Now, this system allows you to retain your valve so that you can plug it in and not get any check engine lights. However, there are no actual valves in this system. So, using sport mode to track and the normal driving won't change your sound at all with this setup. So we can lay our bracket down on top of our actuator and then grab our 5/16 bolts and thread them into the holes.And then we'll do that same thing on this side. And then we'll take a 5/16 ratcheting wrench to tighten these bolts down.So now, we can reinstall our valve actuator. So we'll reconnect our wire harness. And then this is gonna sandwich in between our diffuser and this metal heat shield. And then we can reuse our factory 7-millimeter bolt.And then we can take our 7-millimeter socket to tighten these down. And then we can repeat that same process on the other side. Now we can take our passenger-side tailpipe and one of our 3-inch clamps, we'll slide that over the edge, and then we can lift this up into our X-pipe. And then we'll install our hanger into our isolator. And then we can grab our clamp, and we'll slide it into position, and then take a 15-millimeter socket to tighten this down.And now, we can take our passenger side Y-pipe and another 3-inch clamp, slide that over the edge, and then we'll get this up onto our tailpipe. And then we can raise our hanger into our isolator. And then we can slide our clamp into position and tighten it down with a 15-millimeter socket. And now we can reinstall our hanger bracket. And then we'll grab those two 15-millimeter nuts. And then we'll take a 15-millimeter socket to tighten these down.And now, we can install our tips. Slide that right over the edge. I'm gonna do the inside one first so that we have access to our bolt here, which is gonna be an 8-millimeter Allen. So, again, 8-millimeter Allen bit in there, tighten this down. And now, once we finish this side, we can do the same thing on the other side. Now we can reinstall our driveshaft tunnel brace. We'll be reinstalling our factory 13-millimeter bolts. And then we can take our 13-millimeter socket to tighten down these bolts.So that'll wrap up this review and install of the MBRP XP Series Cat-Back Race Version for your 2016 and Newer Camaro SS Coupe with Manual Transmission and Dual NPP Mode Exhaust. Thank you for watching, and remember, for all things Camaro, keep it right here americanmuscle.com.
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Features, Description, Reviews, Q&A, Specs & Installation
|Exhaust System Type||Cat-Back System|
|Exhaust System Material||Stainless Steel|
|Exhaust System Tip Finish||Chrome, Polished|
|Exhaust System Tubing Diameter||3.00 Inch|
Aggressive Exhaust Note. Add an aggressive exhaust note to the sound of your Camaro's exhaust with a MBRP XP Series Cat-Back Exhaust - Race Version System. This Race Cat-Back Exhaust features specially tuned resonators that will produce an aggressive exhaust note under acceleration, but a mellow tone at idle. Besides an increase in sound, this MBRP Race Cat-Back, with its full mandrel bent piping, will reduce restrictions giving your Camaro a more free-flowing exhaust for gains in both power and performance.
T-409 Stainless Steel Construction. MBRP proudly manufactures their XP Series Cat-Back Exhaust systems from 3-inch diameter, mandrel-bent, heavy duty, T-409 stainless steel tubing for excellent exhaust flow and corrosion resistance. Besides the crossover X-pipe, this system features quad, 4-inch polished, T-409 stainless steel exhaust tips with embossed MBRP logo.
Direct Bolt-On Installation. MBRP engineered their Cat-Back Exhaust to be a direct bolt-on upgrade replacement. This Exhaust System will easily mount in the stock location with no cutting or extra modifications required. Installation of this Cat-Back can be completed in about two to three hours with just basic hand tools. This Cat-Back will reuse the existing factory hangers for installation.
Application. This MBRP XP Series Cat-Back Exhaust; Race Version is designed to fit 2016-2023 Chevrolet Camaro SS Coupe with Manual Transmission and NPP Dual Mode Exhaust.
CA Residents: WARNING: Cancer and Reproductive Harm - www.P65Warnings.ca.gov
(approx) 3 Hours
Light to Moderate mechanical skill required.
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