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Roush Chin Spoiler and Wheel Shroud 3-Piece Aero Kit (18-23 Mustang GT, EcoBoost)

Item 428424
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      Video Review & Installation

      Hey, guys. Adam here with Today, we're taking a closer look at and installing the Roush chin splitter and wheel shroud combo kit available for the 2018 GT or EcoBoost Mustang. Now, if you're the owner of that 5.0 or 2.3 liter Mustang, you might be in the market for something that will really beef up the front end aggression of your 2018 and really make this thing as mean as it's supposed to be. Now, this one does have a functional aspect to it as well as a stylistic aspect to it, most of which is really just giving you a lot of downforce pressure at the front end at top speeds simply because it does protrude out a little bit farther so it'll help with the aerodynamics of your front end. Now as far as styling goes, you can see it really hugs the body lines of your front end, giving you a nice, beefy aggressive look more so than your factory chin splitter, that's for sure. Now, it does follow the same general shape. Again, it just protrudes out a little bit farther. It does have a little bit of a thicker appearance, and it also includes those wheel shrouds also known as canards. Now, those canards here really complete that look on the side profile. I know a lot of guys might not be into that look, but I personally think this looks really aggressive, and it's extremely unique to the category. There's not a whole lot of chin splitters out there that come with those canards, that really complete that front and side look appearance. Now, this kit is going to include injection molded TPO materials for both the chin splitter and the wheel shrouds or canards. They're all made from that impact resistant, textured black stipple appearance material. Basically, what that means is it's that really hard ABS plastic and it also includes that finish just like your OEM splitter. Now, if you don't have an OEM splitter, this is going to be a really, really simple install because you're not going to have to uninstall anything, but there are a couple of things I want to go over before we get into it. If you do not have a performance pack Mustang, it is going to be a little bit different of an install than those guys out there with the performance pack Mustangs. Difference being your belly pan. Now, if you do have a performance pack model with the performance pack belly pan or the Ford Performance aftermarket belly pan, you are going to have to do some drilling and cutting to the lower chin splitter from Roush. Now, it's not too hard of a job to do, but you want to make sure you're comfortable doing it with a comfortable tool of your choice like a sawzall or something similar, and you want to make sure you have a quarter inch drill bit and a drill. If you do not have the performance pack Mustang, completely skip everything I just said. You don't have to drill, you don't have the cut. It will bolt on just like your factory splitter. Although, your belly pan will not bolt up to every single hole on each side. The holes on the sides here will not bolt up to anything, but that is not going to be a detriment to this install. You can still install your Roush chin splitter without the performance pack, it's just not going to be a 100% fitment for your factory belly pan. If you don't like that, no fear, you can pick up the performance pack belly pan separately, if you really want to round out that install underneath your vehicle, although, it is not necessary. Now, if you are looking to pick up this entire kit, 600 bucks is the way to go, you can pick up the whole thing together. And it is going to include a couple of extra brackets. Now, those brackets are not going to be for this particular install, but only for installing this with the Roush lower grille. That is sold separately. If you want to pick that up and really round out the bottom end of your Roush kit here, then you can pick that up and use the brackets included in the kit, although, you do not need them for the splitter install. Again, I'm gonna detail all of this confusing stuff for you in the installation. Now, if you have to do the drilling and you have to do the cutting, expect two out of three wrenches on our difficulty meter and about two, two and a half hours in the shop or garage at home. If you don't have to do that, because you don't have a performance pack, expect one out of three wrenches on our difficulty meter, and I'd say about an hour, maybe two at the absolute maximum in the driveway at home. Now today, we are not working with performance pack. Although, I am going to show you how to do that drilling and how to do that cutting. We're going to put the splitter back on the table, I'm going to cut out the template and show you how that gets done. Tools needed for this install will be a cordless impact, quarter inch ratchet, panel removal tool, flathead screwdriver, three-eighths extension, 7-millimeter short socket and deep socket, 8-millimeter deep socket, 10-millimeter deep socket, 10-millimeter short and deep three-eighths-inch socket, 13-millimeter deep socket, variety of swivel sockets and a 13-millimeter ratcheting wrench. The tools needed for performance pack models with drilling and cutting required will be a drill, a quarter inch drill bit, a center hole punch mark and an air saw or a sawzall or a similar cutting tool. So, the first step of our uninstall here, I'm actually going to start inside of our wheel wells. Now, we're going to repeat the process for both sides here. I'm going to use a panel removal tool. You could use a flathead screwdriver if you don't have one of these, but trust me this does come in handy. There are three push-pin clips that we're going to remove from inside the wheel well holding that liner to the bumper itself. So again, I'm going to use this panel removal tool, I'll pop the three out from the lower side here, and then I'm going to repeat that for the opposite side. Now, if it makes your life easier, you could always remove the front wheels. I don't find it completely necessary because with this tool, we can just reach those clips. So, three clips on each side and then we'll move on. Now we're doing the same thing here for our passenger side, pull the middle section out, pry up underneath, pull the whole thing out. I'm going to remove the eight 7-millimeter bolts holding on our factory splitter here. If you don't have a factory splitter, you can skip right over this and move on to the belly pan. If you do have one, eight 7-millimeter bolts along the edges here, there's four on this side, four on the opposite side then we're going to move on to the belly pan. Now, this belly pan has up to 18 7-millimeter bolts, depending on which package you have, performance pack have a little bit more, non-performance pack might have a little bit less. So again, 7-millimeter deep socket I'm going to use to remove all the necessary bolts underneath our vehicle. All right, now we can move on to the belly pan here, we're starting on the back ones. There's two in the back in these indents. So, at this point, we've removed about half of the bolts that we need to. I'm going to stop down and use our panel removal tool again to pop off these push-pin clips on the back of our belly pan just because I didn't want all the bolts to be removed and then all the pressure to be hanging down on those plastic clips, we don't want them to break. So, I'm going to use the panel tool, pop these two off and we'll keep going with the rest of the bolts. All right. We got about seven more bolts to do right on these indents here on the front end of our lift. Again, 7-millimeter socket, knock these out. All right. We got the last one here, just make you're catching the belly pan as it falls down. At this point, our mud flaps will come loose, so we can pop those straight out of place as well. Now that our belly pan is out of place, we still have a couple more things we have to do before we can pop off our factory splitter. I'm going back to our panel removal tool. And again guys, if you don't have this, I definitely recommend picking it up, it's super useful. We have three push- pin clips on my right here, three push-pin clips on my left, on the inside of our factory splitter, I'm going to pop those out and then we're going to get to work on the remaining bolts holding it on by the front. Once those are out of place, we'll pop it out and get to work on our install. So, these interior ones, I got the middle one out, but they are a little bit trickier since they are a smaller size. So, if you want to switch over to a small flathead screwdriver, this could actually work easily as well. You can pry up from the inside here or you can make your way on the inside and push up from the bottom, and that'll push up that plunger style push-pin clip and allow you to pop that out. The top is popped, can pull up on it just a little bit more. Now, we're going to do the same thing on the opposite side with our panel removal tool. All right. So, we have several more bolts, 10 to be exact, that we're going to remove from the inside of our splitter here. I got my 7-millimeter short socket for this one just because there isn't as much space with an impact gun. Going to use a swivel socket for this one just because it's at an awkward angle. We still have our 7-millimeter socket on there as well. Guys, when you get down to the last couple screws or bolts here, make sure that you're holding the splitter on because it is going to start falling off on you. Got my swivel back on here for this awkward angle. All right. Now, we can remove our factory splitter. So, we've got our factory chin splitter off of our 2018 EcoBoost and on the ground here, sitting next to our Roush option. Now, as you can see, they share the same general shape, it's just the Roush option is actually going to be about double the thickness of our factory one. With that, you're getting it to protrude out a little bit farther than the factory one which does help with downforce and aerodynamics, and it has the Roush name right in the middle there, so it adds a level of aggression. When you see that Roush name, you know it's got a really good quality build behind it. This one is injection molded TPO constructed which basically means it's a really, really durable plastic. It's impact resistant and it's got that black stipple finish which is basically just like very small black specks in the paint just like your OEM finish. So, it's got that textured look and does look super aggressive on the front end of your S550. We do have to make a few modifications to our Roush option before we get started on the install, simply because out of the box, it does require you to drill some holes into it, and then we have to make some modifications to our factory belly pan. So, before we can get this on the car, let's do some drilling and then we'll get started. All right. So, it's time to make that modification that I mentioned earlier to our Roush chin splitter. Now, we've got our template cut out, so you are going to have to cut that out of the big sheet provided for you in the kit. And then, I actually recommend using painter's tape or even scotch tape to tape down that template all along your chin splitter. Make sure it is the perfect size, make sure you're being very meticulous when you're cutting it out of the paper to make sure that it is going to fit properly. We've got it taped down around the edges here, as you can see by our blue painter's tape. I'm going to use a center hole punch just to mark our pilot holes in the template. Once I have my pilot hole marked with our center hole punch, I'm going to use my quarter inch drill bit to drill into those holes on our Roush splitter and then we're going to move on to those notches. So now, that we have our pilot hole marked with our center hole punch, I just want to make sure that you're aware, you want to make sure that you're measuring this twice before you start drilling. I know that typically applies to cutting, you know, measure twice, cut once, but same thing applies to drilling. Make sure that your holes are punched in the dead center of the template. Make sure that your template is on-point with the edging of your Roush splitter before you start drilling, because once you start drilling, there really is no going back. So once you double check everything, you can go in with your quarter inch drill bit. All right. So, we got our drilling out of the way. Next up, we have to cut out five of these rectangular notches as Roush is calling them. So, you want to have a cutting tool of your choice on deck. I'm using air tools, this way it'll make it a little bit more precise and a little easier on me. Also, make sure you have eye protection, anytime you're cutting, you don't want any plastic shavings to get up in your eyes, just to be, you know, a little bit on the safe side. I'm going to leave our paper template in place, making sure that we still have them taped down accordingly. Double check and make sure your template is in the correct location and make sure it's against the edging here and, you know, ready to be trimmed. So, I'm going to use my air tools here and my eye protection and we're going to make the five cuts that we need to. And then we're going prep our Roush chin splitter with the hardware provided for us in the kit and get it ready for install. So, we got our five rectangular shapes cut out. And as you can see, there is a ton of plastic debris so it's a good thing you have your eye wear on deck just to be safe when you're doing this. Make sure you're measuring twice and cutting once, like I said earlier. Make sure the template is in place properly. Now, they might not be the cleanest cuts depending on what cutting tool you're using, but if you do get the rectangular shape out, you can cut it out and, you know, grind it down later on if you want to clean up those cuts. We're good to go. So, what I'm gonna do is remove this whole template [inaudible 00:17:05] set that aside. And if you feel like when you go later on to install this, if you feel like some of those rectangular cuts aren't big enough, or you didn't follow the template enough, you could always realign it. So, it's good to have that template for later on. I'm going to go ahead to remove this. And as you can see, we got those rectangular cuts out pretty nicely. So now that we have our template being taken off now, we can take some of those metal push-pin clips that were provided for us in the kit and we're going to go ahead and install them on to our Roush chin splitter. Next up here, we're going to put our fasteners into place. Now, you want to use the smaller of the two different sizes. There's a smaller one and then a little bit of a larger one. Now, the larger ones are going to be for the holes we just drilled in the Roush chin splitter. The smaller ones are going to be for the pre-drilled holes on the inside of the splitter all the around and those doghouse holes along the middle. So, what we're going to do is install these and then move onto the larger ones, and we'll keep it going. All right, guys, I know we've been jumping around from place to place with this install, there's a lot of things we have to do. It can get pretty tedious. So, a couple of more things we have to set up. One of those things is going to be our canard. Now, the canard is actually going to go on to the end of this wheel well which is going to complete that three-piece chin spoiler and wheel shroud design. Wheel shroud, also called the canard. So, what we're going to do is before we can actually install this, we have to install our canard bracket. It's very small, included in your hardware kit by Roush. This is actually going to install over the stud with a factory nut holding your bumper bracket from the bumper to the fender. Now, you're going to peel back your wheel liner here, you're going to pull off that 10-millimeter nut, set your bracket into place over the stud and tighten it back down. In order to do so, I've lowered our car back down. Now, if you're working on the ground, that's nice too, you can use race ramps or just a jack and jack stands. You want to rotate your wheel to the opposite side of what you're working on. We're on the driver side, wheels facing the passenger, peel back your wheel liner. We've already got the retainer clips removed from the beginning of the install so it's easy to peel these back. With that peeled back, use your 10-millimeter deep socket to get that nut off the stud, install the bracket then we can do our canard. So, because our bracket now is going to be covered by our wheel well liner, I'm going to take my quarter inch drill bit, and just drill a small quarter inch hole right in front of that bracket. Now, even if it isn't completely precise, it is going to give us enough room to get a bolt through and into that threaded bracket. All right. Now, we can install our canard. We are going to line up those two open holes on the bottom of the canard to the pre-drilled holes on our interior well liner. The top one when we can line up for the hole we just drilled. It's about time we install our Roush chin splitter. It's been a long time coming but it's finally time to get to the good stuff. So, what we're going to do is slide this back into place over the factory mounting points. You know, you have those nipples that point out there, that will go through the factory holes. Now, the ends of the chin splitter are actually going to go inside of those canards that we just installed on our wheel wells. Now, that we have all of our bolts to our Roush chin splitter, what we're going to do is connect our canards to our new chin splitter. So, we're going to use our self-tapping screws provided in the kit. They're really tiny 7-millimeter ones, you can use a 7-mill short socket on a cordless impact. That will definitely do the trick the easiest way. So, what we're going to do, we're going to put our self-tapping screw into our socket, tighten everything up. You can look on the inside of your wheel liner to make sure that holes are lining up with where the push-pins would go. If everything looks good and it's tight, go ahead and drill a brand new bottom. All right. So, we've already bolted down the top portion of the canard. So, what we're going to do is start bolting down the bottom two portions. We're going to take these retainer clips, and on the bottom portion here, we're going to slide that over the open hole on our wheel liner. Now, that's going to line up with the hole on the canard and we'll be able to bolt through it. Now, the secondary retainer clip is going to go up here, actually on the interior itself, on this black little notch. That's going to go over top here on the side, making sure that the threading is facing the front of your vehicle. That way, you can bolt it through the inside of the wheel well. We can do the same thing the other side, slide our bottom retainer clip into place. All right. Now, we're going to take our small black 8-millimeter bolt, we're going to put that through. Now, we're going to use the black ones here. There's a couple of different ones that will fit. The black ones just blend in a little bit better in the wheel well with the black interior. All right. Now, we do the same thing for the opposite side. All right. The final step of this very long install is going to be our belly pan. Now, keep in mind that we're not using the performance pack belly pan, this is still our factory EcoBoost belly pan. And if you're using a factory GT, that's going to be the same thing. So, because we're not using the performance pack belly pan, the edges here are not going to bolt up to anything. They're just a little bit short, but it is still doable. So, we're going to bolt down the entire front here, all the bolts we took off in the beginning, we're going to bolt down the back. And of course, we're going to have some along the sides here and then we'll finish it off with those push-pin clips right on the sides. So again, the edges of our non-performance pack belly pan are not going to reach but that's okay, it'll still bolt up and hold itself in. All right. Now, we can do our push-pin clips. All right. So, this one here is not holding one of our push-pin clips. I'm going to use one of these retainer clips on this little tab, that fits over perfectly. We're going to put one of these black bolts to the outside here on the wheel well liner, this will give it some added security. That's going to wrap up my review and install of the Roush chin splitter and wheel shroud combo kit available for the 2018 GT or EcoBoost Mustang. Now, if you're looking to beef up the front end with the Roush chin splitter and a very, very, unique wheel shroud combo kit, this is really the way to go. It looks super unique. It's very aggressive on the front end. It blends in really well with the front end especially the accents under your factory grille. You can pick this kit up for your own GT or EcoBoost right here

      Product Information

      Features, Description, Reviews, Q&A, Specs & Installation


      • Aggressive Track Inspired Styling
      • Reduces Drag and Increases Downforce
      • Injection Molded TPO Construction
      • Black Stipple OEM Style Finish
      • Minor Trimming Required for Installation
      • Requires ROUSH High Flow Lower Grille, part #422081
      • Fits 2018-2023 EcoBoost and GT Mustang Models


      Track Inspired Styling. Add an aggressive track inspired appearance to your 2018-2023 Mustang by installing Roush's 3-Piece Aero Chin Spoiler and Wheel Shroud Kit. This Chin Spoiler replaces the stock spoiler to considerably alter the overall look of your Mustang's front end. This 3-Piece Aero Chin Spoiler and Wheel Shroud Kit is a great way to set your 2018-2023 Mustang apart from the rest.

      Functional. Designed utilizing techniques used in professional racing, this Roush Performance Front Chin Spoiler will improve your 2018-2023 Mustang's aerodynamics by directing the air under and around the car to reduce drag and increase down force. This Chin Spoiler not only increases downforce, but it also helps to force more air through your Mustang's radiator or intercooler for increased engine cooling.

      Roush Quality. Roush manufactures their 3-Piece Aero Kit Chin Spoiler in the USA at their own plastics manufacturing facility from OEM quality high pressure injection molded high-strength thermal plastic olefin (TPO) using the original OEM CAD data from Ford to ensure a perfect fit. TPO is an extremely strong material known for its light-weight, superior durability and impact resistance - making it perfect to withstand the hazards of daily driven vehicles. The Spoiler is completed in a black, stipple textured finish for aggressive good looks.

      Required Upgrade. For proper integration, mounting and appearance this Chin Spoiler & Wheel Shroud 3-Piece Aero Kit will require the Roush High Flow Lower Grille, part #422081(sold separately).

      Application. This Roush Chin Spoiler and Wheel Shroud 3-Piece Aero Kit is designed to fit 2018-2023 GT and EcoBoost Mustang models. Does not fit Shelby GT350.



      Roush 422082

      CA Residents: WARNING: Cancer and Reproductive Harm -

      Installation & What's in the Box

      Installation Info

      What's in the Box

      • (1) Front Chin Spoiler
      • (1) Front LH - Wheel Canard
      • (1) Front RH - Wheel Canard
      • (5) Foam Inserts - Chin Spoiler LH Outboard
      • (1) Spanner Bar
      • (2) Spoiler Support Brackets
      • (2) Spoiler Support Braces
      • Installation Hardware
      • Templates
      • Instruction Sheet

      Customer Reviews (12)

        Questions & Answers

        10 More Questions

        Will It Fit My Mustang

        • Bullitt - 19, 20
        • EcoBoost - 18, 19, 20, 21, 22, 23
        • GT - 18, 19, 20, 21, 22, 23
        • Mach 1 - 23