Free Shipping On Orders Over $49. Details

Talk to a Mustang Enthusiast
M-F 8:30A-11P, Sat-Sun 8:30A-9P
Win $4,000 in Store Credit! Enter Now >

Roush Lowering Springs (05-14 GT)

Item 404859
Call a Mustang Enthusiast at 1-877-887-1105
M-F 8:30A-11P, Sat-Sun 8:30A-9P
Market Price $180.99 You Save 12% ($21.00)
Our Price


FREE Shipping

Will this fit your Vehicle?

Select a different vehicle Help?
Update or Change Vehicle
Ship to: Enter Zip
Sorry, please enter a valid US or CA postal code
We're sorry, zip can't be updated at this time.
    Create a list
    Add to New List

    Saved - View your saved items

    We're sorry. We couldn't save this product at this time.

    or use

      Video Review & Installation

      Justin: The Roush lowering spring should appeal to the 2005 to 2014 GT owners out there who are looking to go with a very mild drop compared to some of your other spring options in the category. In fact, the Roush springs that we are featuring here will lower the car a half-inch on all four corners when used with the factory dampers or one inch all around when used with the optional Roush dampers. Now, the springs will be offered in a full kit, including both the front and rear springs, but will also be available for just the fronts or the rears separately for owners looking to get a little bit custom. Pricing will obviously depend on whether you go with two or four springs, but you're gonna be looking at the mid $200 price point for all 4 and just north of 100 bucks for either of the front or rear springs.So, first thing's first here, guys, if you're looking for a big drop to slam the car, the Roush springs will simply not be the option for you. Instead, these progressive-rate springs will offer a very mild drop of, again, a half-inch on all four corners when used with those factory dampers and approaching one inch on all four corners when used with the optional Roush dampers and different aftermarket options currently available in the category. And honestly, guys, I don't think that's a bad thing, as not everyone out there is really looking to dump their car for a number of different reasons. This could pertain to ride quality, maybe not everyone is into that slammed look, or maybe the road quality in your area isn't exactly ideal. On the other hand, the mild drop of the Roush springs will keep that factory nose down rake, while at the same time chipping away at that factory wheel gap which, as we all know, is a bit excessive on those S197s.Now, as I did mention earlier here, guys, the Roush springs do feature that progressive spring rate in place of a standard or linear rate. And while Roush doesn't provide us with any exact spring rate numbers, one can expect a slightly more comfortable ride while on the road, thanks to the softer initial spring rate while also improved handling performance as these guys tend to firm up and compress, which will also help reduce that body roll and turns. It's also very important to point out that Roush does offer these springs as a complete kit of four, so two fronts and two rears, or you can just grab the fronts or rears by themselves, depending on what you are looking to achieve. For instance, maybe you wanna go with a bigger drop up front compared to the rear to fit a big old tire out back, which is something you can do, thanks to the flexibility of this kit. But as it sits now, with all four springs, most owners aren't going to have any trouble fitting either a stock or aftermarket wheel and tire combo due to the mild nature of the drop itself.Install will get a soft three out of three wrenches according to the site here and a few hours from start to finish, depending on your expertise and just how fast you like to work. Now, spring installs, 9 times out of 10 will require the use of a spring compressor, so just make sure you have one of those on hand before getting started, along with a good assortment of sockets and wrenches. And to give you a better idea of what's involved for this job, here is a detailed walkthrough.Male: Tools required for this install: 3/8-inch impact, 1/2-inch impact, prybar, various extensions, 3/8-inch drive, various universal swivels, a good socket set ranging from 10-millimeter all the way up to 21, flathead screwdriver, push pin removal tool, 18-millimeter wrench, an 8-millimeter wrench, soft rubber mallet, ball-peen hammer, and a bungee cord.So before we get our vehicle up in the air, I do wanna access the trunk to remove the top nuts on our shocks. Just gonna pop our trunk open, and then lay our little liner back to expose our nut. That is a 15-millimeter nut. I'm gonna grab my impact and hopefully, without having to grab the sleeve of the shock with a vise grip, you can just pop this nut right off. Yeah, there it goes. We're gonna do that on both sides and then get the vehicle in the air. All right, again, we're on the driver side now, pulling back that liner. I'm gonna take this 15 off. I'm just gonna keep these back here, because we are gonna be reusing our nuts and shocks. So when we get all of our springs in, we can get that rear...we can lower the vehicle back down, get the rear back in place and get these shocks back in.All right, so I am utilizing a lift. If you are performing this on the ground, please chalk your front wheels, because you can't set the parking brake in the front. But you need to get the rear up high enough that you can drop that rear axle to get your springs out. So I'm gonna go up with the lift. All right, now, I'm gonna get these wheels off. I'm gonna use a little prybar to get this cover off.All right, guys, now that we have our wheels off, you can see that the top of the shock came through the body mount there. That's exactly what we wanted. Next, we're gonna get the vehicle even higher in the air, disconnect our sway bar here, and remove our shocks, then we can lower the rear down and get that spring out. So let's get the vehicle even higher in the air now. All right, since we're lowering the rear axle, we don't wanna put any unnecessary stress on our brake line or speed sensor. So we're gonna be removing our little bracket here with a 10-mill. Just pull that out, and that'll give us a lot more travel when we go to put this up in the air and lower that axle.All right, so what I'm doing now is just putting the jack stands underneath the axle, taking a little bit of pressure of the sway bar, because we are gonna have to take our end links out next. All right, guys, our next step is to take our 15-millimeter bolt out of the top of our sway bar end link on both sides and then swing this down. We can swing this out of the way. Don't worry about that. That was just the little nut clip that goes in here. Just put that right back.All right, guys, now I'm on the passenger side, right at the end of our Panhard bar with an 18-millimeter socket. What we're gonna do now is remove this bolt and this little nut here. We're gonna drop our Panhard bar out of the way, because we need to, again, lower this axle enough to get the spring out. So there's the nut. I'll pull the bolt here in a second. All right, guys, now I'm gonna have a prybar right behind the Panhard bar here. I'm just gonna pry down on it just like that. We're just gonna leave it there. Now, we can lower our axle down even further.All right, guys, now I'm lowering the rear axle down evenly on both sides, just enough that we can get that spring off its seat. All right, just like that. Now, that top isolator did stay up in there, that's fine. We are gonna be reusing that. So we're gonna get the other spring out now. All right, guys, again, our rubber isolator on the top and bottom did remain on the vehicle. Our GT only has about 40,000 miles. If yours has more, they may come out. But you do have to reuse them, so just set it on top. But here we go, we're gonna install our rear springs now. They just slide right in the factory's location, just like that. Now, we're gonna go the other side and get the other spring in.All right, guys, now we're gonna be putting some of our suspension components back into place, starting with our Panhard bar. Now, I did come up a little bit on my jacks just to try to get it roughly in the same spot. We're gonna use a rubber mallet, just tap it into place. All right, it looks like I need to come up a little bit over there. Because if you come up on the driver side, it actually pushes the Panhard bar to the passenger side.Now, we're gonna put our nut tab on there and just start those threads. Again, this is an 18-millimeter. All right, guys, now we're gonna swing our sway bar back into place. And before I did this, I made sure my nut clips were seated in the right position. Do both at the same time if I can. I'm gonna start this bolt over here. All right. Now that that one's started, we can move on to the other one. Again, these are 15-millimeter bolts. All right, guys, now, once we have our sway bar and our Panhard bar back in place, we are going to take our jacks out of the way, put our wheels back on, and then the top nut for our shock.All right, guys, we have a couple more things to button up, first being our brake line bracket here. Let's get our 10-millimeter bolt back in. We're gonna do that on both sides. The next step after that is to get our shock back into place. Now, I'm gonna put the wheel back on, lower the vehicle down, that'll enable the shock to travel back up and us to get that stud back through the body hole. All right, let's put the wheel back on, get the vehicle on the ground, and get our shock back into its place. All right, once the vehicle's on the ground, your shock is actually gonna be touching the top of the body here. All you have to do is just pull it out a little bit. It'll start winding itself up into the hole. We're gonna do that on both sides and get the vehicle all the way on the ground now. All right, guys, we're back in the trunk, and remember, we left our two nuts here for the top of our shock. Let's use our 15-millimeter. I'm just gonna start them as far as I can before I start it with my impact. It's gonna be right about there. You just wanna squish them down pretty good. You don't want the top of the washer hitting the body though. All right. Then we're gonna put the nut on the other side as well.All right, guys, now that we're finished with the back, we're gonna move on to the front. I already popped the hood, got our wheel cover off, and every step you see on this side, we're gonna repeat on the passenger side. So let's get the hood popped open. And let's get this wheel off. All right, guys, now that we have the wheel off, we have to remove this brake line bracket that holds our brake line and our wheel speed sensor here. There's a 10-millimeter bolt on the backside of this strut assembly. Just gonna take this out. Separate that from there. All right, now I'm gonna grab my push pin removal tool and pry this Christmas Tree clip out of the strut. All right, guys, now I have a 15-millimeter socket, and I'm gonna take off the whole caliper and bracket. I'm gonna take the top one out and the bottom. All right, guys, I need a little more length on my brake lines. The caliper is out. I'm gonna take out this 10-millimeter bolt right here, take this bracket off, use my push pin removal tool for that brake line right there. Just get behind it. Pry off. All right, guys, I have my caliper hanging right here. I wanna get a little more distance out of our brake line. So I'm gonna take this bracket off as well. That is a 10-millimeter. All right, now with that I'm gonna use the push pin removal tool on this too, just to get a little bit more. All right. Now, using a bungee cord, I'm actually gonna use this little wiring arms that goes through the body here. I'm gonna run my bungee cord around it. And get my caliper right here. Right here. And let that just hang out by itself, so there's no stress on any of these lines. They're just free. Now, we're also gonna take off our rotor here. We gotta take off this factory little lock washer. All right, now that I broke a couple of these tabs off, we can just thread it off. This is kind of a one-time use deal. If your brakes have already been serviced, the chances are that this thing is not gonna be on there. Again, this vehicle has 40,000 miles on it, so it's in pretty good shape.All right, now we're gonna remove the 18-millimeter nut holding the top of our sway bar. All right, so it looks like this whole shaft is spinning. I'm gonna have to get an 18-millimeter wrench and possibly an 8 or a 10-millimeter on the end here. All right, guys, now I have my 18-millimeter wrench. I'm gonna use my boxed-end there. Then I have a ratcheting 8-millimeter, I'm gonna utilize the end here and take that nut off. All right, looks like I'm running out and I can get it off by hand now. Remove that. Just set that off to the side just like your brake. We are reusing our sway bar end link. Our next step is to support the bottom of our control arm, get these nuts off, and the nuts on the strut tower.All right, guys, moving on, we're gonna be taking care of our spindle nuts and bolts. On this side, the nut is a 21-millimeter then the bolt head is an 18. I have my impact and a breaker bar on this side just to hold what I got here. Okay. We are reusing the factory hardware. The only thing we're replacing is our spring. All right, now we're gonna pull this bottom bolt out, and you'll see our lower control arm wanted to shoot up. We are gonna have to push that down to get our strut back in place. But now, we're gonna lower the vehicle down, get the four nuts that are on top of this strut off. All right, now that we're on the top of the strut, we're gonna be removing these 4 13-millimeter nuts. I'm gonna completely remove three and leave the last one only with a couple threads left. That way, the strut doesn't fall out. All right, right about there. So with one hand, I'm gonna support my strut, I'm gonna remove this last nut and the strut itself. Now, let's take this to the spring compressor, get our old spring off, and our new one on there. All right, guys, you're probably not gonna have a fancy spring compressor like this at your house. You can go to your local auto parts store and rent the ones that clamp onto the sides. Just be extremely careful with them. All right, so I do have this set up as straight up and down as I can on the lowermost coil and up here on the top hat, I'm gonna slowly compress this down and release this 21-millimeter nut on the top. All right, that should be good right about there. The bottom is separating from the coil there. All right, now I have my 21-millimeter socket on my 1/2-inch impact, and I'm gonna grab the bottom of this because I don't want the strut falling right to the bottom. So I'm gonna hit this. All right, I just grabbed my air impact, because my electric one wasn't strong enough. And I'm going to zip off the top. All right, now we're gonna slowly release the pressure on the spring to get our top hat and our top mount back so we can transfer it to our new spring. All right, and there it is. Get the spring out of here, take our top hat off, and get our new spring up in here.All right, so we have our new Roush spring. I did steal the rubber isolator off of our old stock spring. It's gonna overlap just a little bit as you see here. We're gonna place it into our spring compressor the same way we placed our stock one in. This needs to come down a little bit. Again, we want the spring straight up and down as level as possible. Now, we need to bring our spring compressor down and set our top hooks. All right, once you have your spring set up in your spring compressor the way that you want, I have our top hat already on the top and our isolator set in the bottom. I'm going to start to compress our new Roush spring, you're not gonna have to compress this one as much as a stock one, because again, this is a lowering spring. All right, now, I'm gonna bring up our strut. And let's make sure our spring is sitting in the bottom correctly, and let's tighten that up. All right, so I'm gonna start loosening my spring compressor to get some tension on the bottom of this strut. All right, now that I have the spring sitting on our strut the correct way, we're gonna do this to the other one and get it on the vehicle. All right, guys, now that we have our Roush spring on our stock strut, we're gonna put it back into the strut tower. I have the four nuts in my hand. I'm gonna start a couple nuts. We can tighten these up. All right, now let's go back under. Now, this will move any way you want it. We're gonna make sure that our wheel speed sensor line, our brake lines are all in the back of strut and spindle assembly. So when we bring it into place, you can just slide it in and push it down and start our bolts. Maybe right here, the bolts go from forward in, if you remember. I'm gonna grab the end here. Don't need no stinking prybar. All right, guys, now let's start our nuts here. Then the one at the bottom. This tab is gonna go right on the bottom of the spindle and the strut. Let's tighten this up and get a good. Make sure our wheel speed sensor's good.All right, guys, now let's put our sway bar end link back in its place. That was that 18-millimeter nut. We used the box-end back here and my ratcheting 8-millimeter. All right, now once you get it close, can get your final tighten with that 18-millimeter nut. That's good there. All right, guys, let's put our brake lines back into place. So, that 10-millimeter bolt here just goes right into the body. And then there's one behind the strut assembly here. It's kinda hard to see and I got my hand back there, you're gonna have these push pins on the body as well for your wheel speed sensor line, put those back in. Let's actually get our caliper back on, our rotor and caliper back on. Then we can get that last brake line.All right, guys, let's put our rotor on first, make sure that it's seated all the way back. Then I'm gonna get my caliper bolts. I have my knee on the bottom just to lay that rotor flat. The rotor will slide on. Start our bolts at the top and bottom and tighten them down evenly. Again, these are a 15-millimeter bolt. All right, guys, let's get our last bracket back in place. This is the brake line bracket behind the strut. Again, it's a 10-millimeter, little machine screw type deal. Get my impact and zip that back in. Just recheck everything, make sure it's back to stock, minus the new coil in there.All right, that's gonna wrap up my install of these Roush lowering springs for this 2006 Mustang GT. For more parts like this, keep it here at

      Product Information

      Features, Description, Reviews, Q&A, Specs & Installation


      • Aggressive Muscle Car Stance
      • Lowers Center of Gravity for Improved Handling
      • Blue Powder Coat Finish
      • Estimated Drop: Front - 0.5 Inch; Rear - 0.5 Inch
      • Clears Stock and Aftermarket Wheels & Tires
      • Professional Installation Recommended
      • Available Front, Rear or as a Set of 4
      • Fits 2005-2014 GT Mustang Models


      Race-inspired Handling. Roush Performance Lowering Springs are designed to lower your 2005-2014 GT Mustang's center of gravity, which helps to reduce squat during acceleration, body roll in the corners, and excessive nose-dive under hard braking. Roush Performance Lowering Springs are and ideal upgrade for daily street and track driven S197 Mustangs.

      Lowered Muscle Car Stance. Not only does a set of Roush Performance Springs improve the handling performance of your Mustang, but they also improve its overall appearance. By lowering the ride height approximately 0.5 inches in the front and rear, that huge tire to fender gap is eliminated, providing your Mustang with a classic muscular stance.

      Quality Construction. Roush Performance Springs are manufactured from high-tensile silicon steel wire, which offers top-notch strength to endure vigorous utility. In the last step of the manufacturing process the springs are completed in a high-performance satin blue powder coated finish for superior long lasting corrosion resistance.

      Clears Stock and Aftermarket Wheels & Tires. These lowering springs were engineered to be compatible with your stock size wheels and tires, as well as AmericanMuscle’s pre-configured wheel and tire combo kits (specific to your generation), to assure proper clearance with no rubbing issues.

      Professional Installation Recommended. Seeing that a spring compressor is required for installation of these Coil Springs, AmericanMuscle recommends professional installation. With the proper tools installation can be completed in about three hours. Please note that an alignment is highly recommended after installation.

      Application. These Roush Lowering Springs are designed to fit 2005-2014 Mustang GT models. These Springs are available as a set of 2 Front, 2 Rear or as a complete set of 4. Please select from the options listed.

      Fitment: 2005 2006 2007 2008 2009 2010 2011 2012 2013 2014 Details

      Roush 401295

      CA Residents: WARNING: Cancer and Reproductive Harm -

      Installation & What's in the Box

      Installation Info

      What's in the Box

      Front Option
      • (2) Front Lowering Springs

      Rear Option
      • (2) Rear Lowering Springs

      Complete Set of 4 Option
      • (4) Lowering Springs

      Customer Reviews (27)

        Reviews of Roush Suspension products have an average rating of 4.7 out of 5

          Questions & Answers

          10 More Questions

          Will It Fit My Mustang

          • Boss 302 - 12, 13
          • Bullitt - 08, 09
          • GT - 05, 06, 07, 08, 09, 10, 11, 12, 13, 14

              Related Mustang Categories