(approx) 2 Hours
Light to Moderate mechanical skill required.
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Hey, guys. Adam here with americanmuscle.com. Today, we're taking a quick look at and installing the set of Roush Rear Shocks available for the 2005 to 2014 Mustang. If you're the owner of an S197 and you're looking to improve your suspension and handling performance as well as your cornering abilities, these rear shocks are a perfect replacement and direct fit. It's also a good option for the guys out there working with a set of bad or blown out OEM shocks, which we all know after certain amount of years can definitely go bad. If you're experiencing the symptoms of a bad shock, it might be time for the replacement. Some of those symptoms could include excessive squatting during stopping, excessive swing during cornering, bottoming out on rough roads, noticeable tire vibration or vibration at the steering wheel. So if you're experiencing any of those, it could be the symptoms of a bad rear shock, in which case it's a really good time to upgrade to these. You can get a set of two for just about 200 bucks. And if you're a fan of Roush and you're going for a full Roush suspension, they've got a number of mods that can go perfectly with this set. You can get the Roush front struts, the Roush lowering springs and really complete that entire suspension even with a set of Roush sway bars.Now, I wanna show you how these things get installed so I wanna tell you up front here, one out of three wrenches on our difficult to meter, it does take a little patience. There is some steps in here that you're taking apart such as dropping down your sway bar, gaining access to these bolts under here with your tires removed, so there's a little bit of work involved. You wanna make sure you have a hydraulic jack and some jack stands on hand, definitely two, three would definitely help a lot more. You can also use a lift like we are today but if you don't have access to a lift, you can tackle this one in the driveway at home. I would say simple hand tools on deck like a ratchet and a full socket set, a couple of different wrench sizes will be required as well as a torque wrench. If you don't have a torque wrench you can pick one up from the local auto parts store because you'll definitely wanna make sure you're torquing these bolts to spec. Now, without further ado, I wanna show you how this gets done, so let's get to it. Tools needed for this install will be a set of pliers or vise-grips, cordless impact and or a ratchet, 15-millimeter deep socket, a 17, 18 and 19-millimeter deep socket, PB B'laster or WD-40 is recommended, a 19-millimeter wrench, 15-millimeter ratcheting wrench is recommended, and a torque wrench. So, of course, to kick off our uninstall, we gotta get these rear wheels out of the way so I've got my 22-millimeter socket, I'm gonna knock these lug nuts off, pull the tires off of the rear. Now, of course, you can leave the front ones on just because we're doing rear shocks today. So let's get to it. All right, once you get your car with the wheels off and supported on jack stands, we're obviously using a lift, what you wanna do is open up your trunk lid and gain access to the bolts on the top of your rear shocks. So, in order to do that, we're gonna peel back the trunk liner on each side to gain access to those bolts. Now I'm gonna use a deep 15-millimeter socket and my ratchet here, if you have power tools, that works even better. So what we're gonna do is go ahead and remove those top nuts on the top of our shock but it might cause the entire shock to rotate. So it is a good idea to have a helping hand on deck just to hold them steady or if you are really flexible, you can work it with your left hand and reach over and grab it with your right. In my case, we've already got loosened up just a little bit but I'm gonna show you how to get those off in just a second. So, first off, let's remove the trunk liner on the right side here and get started on the bolt. All right, so here's the top of our shock, got my 15-mil socket, I'm gonna go ahead and remove that top nut.With that top nut removed under the trunk between a liner there, all we have now is this last bolt here on the bottom of our shock. Now, in order to get to that, we actually have to move our sway bar out of the way. As you can see, we will not reach a socket in here, let alone pull that bolt straight back, we'll have to disconnect our sway bar from the top mount, that's only one bolt up here on the frame. Once that's disconnected, the whole thing will swing down but still stay attached to the bottom, so the sway bar is not fully coming off. With that swung down, we'll be able to remove that bottom bolt, swap out our shock, put the bolts back into place, swing the sway bar back up and reconnect it at the top. So I've got my 19-millimeter socket, it's a pretty big bolt holding on the top of the sway bar, as well as a 19-millimeter wrench. I'll hold the nut from the back, work the bolt head from the front, disconnect it, do the same for the opposite side and swing that down. All right, we're switching over to power tools here just to make life a little bit easier. So before you get going on all of this, you wanna make sure that you're having your pole jack or your hydraulic jack or jack stands, whatever the case may be, supporting the weight of your rear axle. And then you're gonna grab your 15-millimeter socket here and work on the bottom bolt here on your shock. Now, as you can see, it's got this retaining clip on the nut side, this will actually stop itself from rotating so you won't need to hold it with a wrench. As you can see, there's a cutout lip here on the axle piece itself so this extension will stop this from rotating and you can just work on the bolt head side on the inside of your car. So what we're gonna do here is grab our 15 socket, remove that bolt. We got it loose enough to work by hand, I'm gonna hold the shock so it doesn't fall out here, rotate this out of place, and your whole rear shot comes down. All right guys, so we finally got our factory shocks off of our '06 GT and on the table here sitting next to the Roush rear shocks. Now, off the bat, there really isn't a ton of difference aside from the color, visually. But there's a lot happening internally that's gonna make them very different than the factory shock as I mentioned before. Now, this one, in particular, obviously has a blue finish on top of it, which looks really good under your suspension, a lot better than the black, it gives you something to look at and a pop of color under that car. Now, internally, you're gonna get a preset damping, which means it's not adjustable, it's predictable, and it's consistent. So, you know you're always gonna have that same performance coming out of your rear shocks all the time. Whereas some of the adjustable options, you could always change it on the fly if you're really looking to fine-tune your suspension to different striving styles. For daily drivers, stock replacements, or even weekend warriors, people looking for a preset shock they don't have to ever touch again, just throw it up on the car and get going on the road with an improved performance, these are a perfect fit. Now, they come with a moto tube design, which means it's gonna be just like your factory shocks, long-term lasting, it's gonna have a really good performance, it's really durable and, of course, it's really high-quality, as you know, from the Roush name. Now, the installation is gonna be the exact same here, what we're gonna do, we're gonna transfer over our top bushing to our new Roush shocks. If these are all messed up on you or some of them are worn out, broken up into pieces after a while then you might wanna pick up a couple of replacements for the top bushings to swap over. Ours are in good condition so we're gonna swap them over and then reuse our factory bolt at the bottom as well as the top nut. So, without further ado, I wanna show you guys how this gets done, let's get to it. All right, it's time to put our new Roush rear shock into place here on my passenger side of the '06. So what we're gonna do is slide this up the stud through the hole in the frame there up into the trunk, that way we can make sure that that's lined up properly. Then we'll pop this into place here between the two open holes and stick our factory bolt through, tightening it down with that clip on the other side. Now, remember this clip is going to hold it into place in between this little fork here. So what we're gonna do is tighten the bolt through a little bit just to thread into this clip. Once we get it down all the way by hand, I'll grab our ratchet and tighten it down. Now that we've got this tightened down, we're gonna do the same thing for the opposite side here. And before we finish the entire project, we are to come back with a torque wrench, make sure we torque that down to spec. Now, once we put it on the ground, you drive it a little bit, those bolts might tend to just loosen up a bit so make sure you check it after a couple hundred miles you put on the new shocks here, just to make sure your bolts are nice and tight. So let's go ahead to the other side, get things finished up. All right, before we go any further, what we're gonna do is we're gonna take a torque wrench now, this is one of those things you can rent at your local auto parts store, it shouldn't be very expensive, you can definitely get one for this project here. You're gonna wanna torque your bolts down, that's definitely one of the safest things you can do, one of the smartest things you can do. Don't do everything by hand, make sure that they're torqued to the correct spec. Now our lower shock bolts here we're gonna torque down to 85 foot-pounds so I've got my torque wrench set to that and my half-inch 15-millimeter socket at the end of it, torque down these bottom bolts and then we'll reconnect our sway bar. Once you hear that click, it's torqued down to 85 foot-pounds and we're gonna do that for the opposite side. When you're torquing something down with your torque wrench, you wanna go nice and slow just so you don't over-torque it because that could be as detrimental as not torquing it enough. Once you hear that click, give it one more pop and we're good to move on. All right, last step in the process down here at least is to jack up our sway bar back into location so we can bolt down the brackets to the frame. Now, in order to do that, I'm actually gonna use a pole jack. So we can get it up so far and then to line it up with those holes, I'm gonna jack it up a little bit to put pressure on there while I put the bolts in and tighten them down. So let's go ahead and do that. All right, got that hole lined up here, take our bolt, put it through, tighten it down by hand. All right, with this one, you wanna make sure you've got the bolt head and then a spacer, and we're gonna put that through, spacer on the other side and then your nut to cap it off. All right, we're gonna do the same thing to the other side and then come back and tighten them both down. All right, now we're grabbing our 19-millimeter socket and our wrench, and we're gonna tighten these down. All right, so as you can see, we got the car back down on the ground. We put jack stands under the rear axle to support that weight and push our shocks back up into their pre-drilled holes in our trunk panel here. What we're gonna do is we got our 15-millimeter deep socket, we're gonna tighten down these end caps with the bushings and the nuts attached on top of the stud of our rear shocks now from Roush and that'll be the last step of the install. And then, of course, you're gonna throw your wheels back on at the end of it and you're good to go. Now make sure again, after you put a couple hundred miles on it, you wanna make sure you're rechecking those bolts just to make sure everything's still tightened down and torqued to spec, which I showed you earlier in the video. So last step here, throw these back onto the top of the shocks and we'll be good to go. All right, guys, I'm using a 15-millimeter ratcheting wrench to tightness this down. To get it to stop spinning, I've got vise-grips I'm gonna hold up at the top. Now, of course, you can do this a number of different ways and if you don't have a ratcheting wrench, regular wrench can do the trick. If you don't have vise-grips, any old pliers can do the trick, or if you have a really, really tiny wrench you can put it around the top of this, it's actually flattened so that can actually be held on by an actual wrench, if you have one small enough. That's gonna wrap up my review and install of the Roush Rear Shocks available for the '05 to '14 Mustang. Now, if you're trying to get a pair for your own S197, you can do so for just about 200 bucks. And when you're done putting them on, make sure you throw your tires back on because I don't think you're going anywhere without them. If you wanna get a pair for yourself and your own S197, you can do so right here at americanmuscle.com.
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Fitment: 2005 2006 2007 2008 2009 2010 2011 2012 2013 2014
CA Residents: WARNING: Cancer and Reproductive Harm - www.P65Warnings.ca.gov
(approx) 2 Hours
Light to Moderate mechanical skill required.
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