(approx) 3 Hours
Mechanical expertise or professional installation required.
Hey, what's up, everybody. I'm Justin with americanmuscle.com and this is gonna be my detailed breakdown of the SR Performance subframe connectors available for your 1979 to 2004 Mustang. In this video, I plan on talking about the benefits of installing a subframe connector, what you can expect with the SR option from a design and material standpoint, and lastly, we'll cover some of the big points of the installation. And, guys, these are a weld-in option here, meaning you are gonna have to break out that MIG welder so just be ready for that. I'm still gonna go middle of the road two out of three wrenches on my difficulty meter. If you have welding experience this one really shouldn't be all that bad. Plain and simple, the SR Performance subframe connectors will be for the Fox Body and SN95 owners looking to get their hands on the most affordable weld-in option on the site at the $60 price point. And that will be the biggest draw here when checking these things out compared to other options in the category. Now, a lot of people watching this video might be wondering, "Do I need to add subframe connectors to my Fox or SN95?" And my short answer will always be yes. And that's because, guys, these older unibody cars, it can improve a lot of different areas of your car's performance, but more specifically the handling and the launching because you are gonna be eliminating some of that chassis twist that can be oftentimes problematic here with those older gens. And why is that? Well, these older cars, the Fox Body and the SN95 do feature that unibody construction here meaning you've got a rear subframe and a front subframe and the only thing tying those things together are the floor pan and rocker panels and this is your big weak spot for flex or twist. This is even more magnified on cars making big power and trying to launch on a sticky tire. Not only does this hurt your car's performance, but it can possibly even damage your car over time as well. In fact, stress cracks have been known to pop up around the mounting bolts here for the front driver and passenger seat. You even see some stress cracks at the top of the A pillar on these big power cars, and this is even just sometimes evident by trying to close the doors on these big power cars. Sometimes they just don't line up right and this is perfectly evident of that chassis flex or twist. So, by installing a subframe connector you're gonna be tying both the front and rear subframes together, strengthening the car in the process and reducing that chassis flex.So now that you know a little bit more about why you might need them, let's break down the SR options here and, in true SR form, these are gonna be a budget option in just about every way. And what does that mean to you guys? Well, I know on the surface a lot of these things probably look identical where you're just looking at a long piece of box steel tubing, some reinforcements and that's pretty much it. But if you dive a little bit deeper you're going to find some subtle differences between a value option like this and some of your more expensive options in the category. First up, let's break down the materials. The SR Performance option is gonna utilize a 1x2 piece of tubular or box steel and the materials will be a little bit thinner. If you compare that to your more expensive options such as your Maximum Motorsports or even your Steeda option you're going to be looking at a 1.5x2 inch piece of box steel tubing, they're gonna be a little bit longer and you're gonna be looking at a thicker material overall. And on top of that they also offer some reinforcements to every area that there is a slight bend. You heard me drop the length in there as well, and, yes, there will be differences in length. Now, even though SR Performance categorizes these as a full-length subframe option, both those Maximum Motorsports and Steeda options will be a little bit longer overall. Now, does this mean a lot to the casual owner out there? Well, not exactly, but for those guys who plan on building an all-out drag car putting down a lot of power, these might not be the best option for you. And with all that said, the SR Performance options will get the job done and will satisfy most owners out there and do feature two pretty big features that I like in the world of subframe connectors. First and foremost, these guys do feature a weld-in design. And I don't think anybody's gonna argue with me when I say that this will be the superior design over a bolt-in style subframe connector. Yeah, those bolt-in jobs are nice because they're gonna be convenient, you're not gonna have to break out the welder. However, they're just not gonna be as effective when merely just tying the two chassis points together, reducing the chassis flex. Secondly, I do enjoy how SR includes these seat brackets here that do tie into the bolts or the seats underneath the body of course, just reinforces a known weak spot in the Fox and SN95 chassis and that's something you will find with some of the more expensive options on the site as well. The last thing I do enjoy about this is kind of a double-edged sword or a good and a bad thing if that makes sense, just bear with me here. You will find that these things are powder-coated black and that's important because essentially these are just a mild steel part. They're gonna rust up on you very quick left uncoated. The only caveat to that is that you got to really just get that coating off wherever they're gonna be welded to get a nice good weld on the thing. So yes, I like how they're powder coated. It's gonna save you a step for spraying it, but at the same time you're gonna have to knock some of that powder coating off using a wire wheel or something similar just to get a nice good weld to your Mustang. And while we're on the topic of corrosion, there's one thing I would have enjoyed seeing here with the SR options. You'll notice the ends are left open and that's something that you might see with some of the other options as well, but if you leave those open, you get some water in there, over time you might see some corrosion from the inside out. Some of the more expensive options will include a cap to be tacked onto the end to kind of seal these puppies off. And if I were to buy the SR options, I'd probably just scour the shop for some scrap metal, tack it on the end just to seal 'em off completely, prevent any corrosion from the inside out. So, we're moving right along here, guys. We've talked about why you might want to install a subframe connector on your Fox or SN, we've talked about the construction here of the SR option, we've hammered home the point that these are your affordable option here on the site at just north of the $50 price tag. Now let's get into the installation a little bit further. And as I talked about it earlier, guys, obviously, there's some welding involved here, so be sure to break out the MIG welder and your helmet for this one. I'm still going two out of three wrenches on the difficulty meter, maybe a couple of hours from start to finish depending on your level of expertise and your setup. On the other hand, if you've been welding for a long time, you'll probably be able to bang this one out even faster. But either way getting started, you're gonna want to eyeball everything underneath the car first, line these guys up, make a few marks on where you want them to go, and then get to work prepping the surface first using that wire wheel or grinder to prep the actual subframe connector from SR, knocking off that powder coat. And then get underneath the car itself, just knock off all the dirt, grime, or whatever else might be underneath that floor panel. Once everything has been prepped go ahead and get to work installing these or tacking them into place, but before you do so it's very important that you put this portion up onto those seat studs first. It's gonna sit on the subframe connector like that. Very important because obviously once these things are bolted, or welded into place I should say, you're not gonna really be able to get these guys on, so very important, make sure you handle that first. Your final step will be, of course, though to weld the actual seat bracket onto the subframe connectors themselves. Finally, guys, once everything has been welded into place, just go around with a can of black spray paint, just rattle can it on the areas with the bare metal just to ensure it's not gonna rust over time. So, wrapping things up here, guys, the SR Performance subframe connectors will be far and away your most affordable option here on the site, and while they might not offer the thickness or length of other options, more expensive options on the site, they're going to be fine for pretty much anybody that's not building a high-horsepower dedicated drag car. So, that is my review of the SR Performance weld-in subframe connectors which you can grab right here at americanmuscle.com.
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(approx) 3 Hours
Mechanical expertise or professional installation required.
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