1) At the bellhousing, remove the plastic splash shield. Use a prybar to slacken the clutch cable and disconnect it from the clutch fork. Remove the clip which holds the cable to the bellhousing. In the engine compartment, disconnect the cable support bracket(s) from the car. Disconnect the cable from the firewall.
2) Under the dash, pull the end of the cable loose from the quadrant and remove the cable from the car.
3) Insert the end of the new cable through the firewall and bolt the cable to the firewall with the factory screw. On some vehicles, the original cable will have two screws at the firewall. In most cases this second screw is not used on the new cable. Hook the cable over the end of the clutch quadrant.
4) Route the cable through the engine compartment to the bell housing. 1994-95 Mustangs may need to follow a slightly different routing than stock to make the cable reach without interference. Attach the cable support brackets.
5) Reconnect the clutch cable to the clutch fork.
6) Secure the cable away from hot engine parts and sharp edges with cable ties.
Note: Care must be taken to keep the cable away from long tube headers. Clutch cables are not designed to withstand direct contact with exhaust components. Long tube headers should be wrapped to keep radiant heat from damaging the cable.
7) Adjust the clutch cable by turning the ball nut with a wrench. Be sure the clutch fully releases when the pedal is depressed, and the clutch is fully engaged with only light tension on the cable when the pedal is released. Tighten the jam nut to lock your adjustment in place.
Have someone step on the clutch while you check to make sure the clutch fork does not bind against the bellhousing and the threaded rod does not bind against the end of the cable-housing coming through the bellhousing..
Call Steeda tech support at 954-960-0774 if the cable is binding.