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Jake: Jake here for American Muscle, and today, I'm taking a look at the C&L Non-Adjustable Rear Lower Control Arms in Red, fitting 2005 to 2014 Mustangs. If you can't put power to the ground, then let's face it, you're not going anywhere, and if your S197 is in need of an injection of additional traction or is suffering from a lot of wheel hop, a set of these rear lower control arms will certainly prove helpful. These are a bolt-in solution that's gonna help you put down power much more easily for a very reasonable price.Now again, you really can't go anywhere if you're unable to readily transfer the power that your engine makes to the ground, and if you've got a lot of axle hop-on launches, well, you know all about that. Now, one way to combat the issue is a set of upgraded rear lower control arms like these ones from C&L. Now, these have some additional strength baked in versus your stock arms and they include new polyurethane bushings as well to help clean up any slop or play you might have. Those bushings are also greaseable to help extend their life and keep away any noise, too, and they're much stiffer than the OEM spec rubber bushing. So, whether you're on the dragstrip or on the race circuit or even out on the street, these are gonna do a lot to keep your rear axle more planted versus those stock control arms.The fixed seal and the poly bushings combine to give you a lot more grip, better overall traction, and thus more so control. So you're gonna have an easier time putting power down from a dead stop or coming out of a corner. This is really an easy mod that's definitely gonna make an improvement in how your car puts its power down to the ground. It's gonna keep stuff planted, making that transfer of power much smoother and easier, and it's also not gonna ruin the ride quality either.Now, construction is also a highlight here. The arms themselves are made from a high-strength, heavy-duty box steel, and they're fabricated with some pretty nice welds on here, too. So, they're gonna add some added durability versus your stock arms. Now, the whole thing is obviously coated in this gloss red powder coat, so it's gonna give you some added protection against the elements and it'll also look cool if anybody happens to get under there and see it. Those bushings, as I mentioned a few moments ago, are made from polyurethane, making them stronger, stiffer, and more durable than your stock rubber bushings. And again, these can be greased using the zerk fittings on either end of the arm. So, that's going to extend the life of the bushings themselves and it's also gonna help keep away the noise. Since you can get these greased up pretty easily, if you happen to have any noise coming from them, which is a common issue with polyurethane bushings, that'll help quell that problem right then and there.Pricing is also a big win here, coming in at just about $150 for the set of two. Now, that's gonna make them one of the least expensive options in the category. And while you're not getting the adjustability of some of the more expensive arms here, these are still gonna be an improvement over your stock setup and are also not gonna ruin the ride of your car or your bank account. Installation gets a two out of three on our difficulty meter, and it should only take you about two hours to complete. You are gonna have to get under the car and pull out some hefty bolts, but there are only four of them. These are a straight swap, a bolt-in process, and it's not gonna require any modifications to your car. Only thing you'll wanna do afterwards is get the car aligned just to keep it tracking straight and true since you are replacing a suspension component. And with that, let's throw it over to one of our AM customers who's gonna show you what the install process looks like.Man: All right, the tools we're gonna be using today for this install is a grease gun, a torque wrench, we're gonna use a 3/8ths-inch ratchet, 18-millimeter socket, flathead screwdriver, a 5/16ths wrench, zip ties, and a crescent wrench that we may need later on in the install.Hi. Today, we're gonna be removing our factory rear lower control arms off of our 2012 Ford Mustang and installing these C&L Non-Adjustable Rear Lower Control Arms that are powder-coated red. So, let's get started. Okay, for the install today, we're gonna use a floor jack and jack stands. You can also use a car lift if you have that available to you. To use a car lift, you're gonna need to use a pole jack stand versus jack stands. So, let's get started.Okay, so to jack our vehicle up, we're gonna bring this floor jack down underneath the car. We wanna go into the center of the pumpkin on the differential. You don't wanna use the jack on the differential cover because you could cause damage, and make sure you're right under the center of that pumpkin. Okay, so as I bring the jack underneath, we're gonna get centered under our pumpkin and we're gonna start lifting our car. Again, like I said, you wanna be centered and not hitting that differential cover where you can cause other damage that make you have to do another repair.Okay, now that we got the car lifted up, we're gonna take our jack stands, we're gonna put 'em under the axle on both the driver and the passenger side. We wanna put 'em under the axle because as we take off the rear control arms, if you're not supporting that axle, you can cause some shift that you'll have to make adjustments or go in possibly for an alignment later on. So, the jack stands will help support that axle, causing less shift in that axle.Okay, so now we got the jack stands under our axle, we're gonna drop up the axle a little bit and put the weight onto the jack stands. I, myself still like to leave a little bit of pressure on the jack just for my own safety. We're gonna start with removing the factory rear control arm on the passenger side and installing the new rear control arm on the passenger side. So, one of the first things we're gonna do is when your new control arms come in, we've got the holes on what's the bottom side of it that we need to put the grease zerks into. You wanna be very careful when you do this as you can end up stripping these out and that's gonna cause you more problems, so take your time, make sure they thread in right.All right, so now that we got our zerks threaded in, we're gonna take our 5/16ths wrench and we're gonna tighten down these zerks, but not over-tighten them because you'll strip 'em out. There we go. There we go. The first thing we wanna do is we're gonna come underneath, and as you can see, your emergency brake cable comes through your factory control arm. We need to release that from our brakes so we can remove the factory control arm. First thing you wanna do is of course you need to make sure that your emergency brake's off so that that cable will be able to pop out. And we're gonna come up, and there's a retainer clip up on the brakes.So, to make it a little bit easier, and I'll give you a little better visual, we're gonna go ahead and take our wheel off so you can actually see the cable and the retainer clip that we need to take off. So, break loose our lug nuts, and then we'll take our wheel off. All right, so like I said, one of the things we need to remove is our emergency brake cable. You're gonna wanna release the emergency brake so that there's no tension on it. And right here is that factory retainer clip, let's hold in that brake cable in place. If you can, you can either use your hand to pop it out or use a flathead screwdriver and pop your retainer clip out just like that.Now, we're gonna take the brake cable, it's sitting in a holder there, we're gonna pop it outta there And if we push down on the emergency brake lever, we could push the emergency brake cable up, and you might need to use your flathead screwdriver just to give yourself a little bit of momentum. And you turn it. Oops. And if you turn the cable, it'll pop right out just like that. Now, we have it removed from the holder and the brake as well from the retainer clip that holds it in place. All right, so like I said, that emergency brake cable comes through the factory control arm, so we wanna slide it out from in there so when we unbolt it we can take the control arm off. And we can just leave it hanging down like that.So now that we've got the cable removed and out of the factory control arm, we can grab our 18-millimeter socket and our socket wrench and take out...there's a bolt on the front end and the back end of the control arm. Okay, so we got our 18-millimeter socket and our ratchet, and right under here is the first bolt. This is towards the back of the car underneath on the control arm hanger, and we're gonna break that loose. Now, we'll see. We may need to use either some extra leverage or we can always use some penetrating oil to help break that loose a little bit.So, like I said, we're gonna loosen...we loosened the front bolt with the 18-millimeter socket on the rear control arm, now we're going to the front side of the car and we're gonna break this one loose with our 18-millimeter socket. Okay, and since we already loosened and we just got it hanging on on the back, we're gonna go ahead and just go all the way out with the bolt on the front end. There. Then on the back side, I'll finish loosening that one up. And there we go, we've taken out our stock rear control arms. We're now ready to install our C&L Non-Adjustable Rear Lower Control Arms.So, here is our factory rear control arm. You can see that, you know, it's a little bit narrower, not quite as stout, that C&L. It's a solid bar, steel bar, and you can see that even our bushings, the polyurethane bushings are just a little bit more thicker than the rubber bushings that come on the factory side, okay? So now let's go ahead and let's install our C&L Non-Adjustable Rear Control Arms onto the passenger side that we just removed our factory one from. So, as you can see on our C&L Non-Adjustable Rear Control Arms, they're a little bit thicker, a little more stout, but if you look at it, the backside has a wider range on the bushings versus the front side. Front side, the bar is centered between the bushings, on the backside, it's offset. When you install this, you wanna make sure the smaller bushing is to the front of the car, the bigger bushing is to the back of the car, and your offset here is facing towards the inside towards your driveway.So now we're ready to go ahead and install our C&L Non-Adjustable Rear Control Arms. Before we go ahead and put 'em up in the brackets, we're gonna take some grease, we wanna just grease the outside of our bushings just to make sure, you know, they slide in right and that we're all set to go when they're up there installed. We're gonna do all four sides, make sure they're nice and lubricated. Give it a little spread around, make sure we got it on the entire bushing.All right, now we're ready to go ahead and install this up into our Mustang, our C&L Non-Adjustable Rear Control Arms into our Mustang. Again, remember, your wider bushings are on the backside with the offset towards the inside of the car. We're gonna slide these up in, grab our bolt. And for myself, I like a little bit of peace of mind, you don't have to, but I like to put a little bit of threadlocker on there just so that I know that if I'm going down the road, nothing's gonna come loose on me.We're gonna take our clip, put it on the street side, run our bolt through the bracket, into the control arm, and through, and we're just gonna tighten it hand-tight on that, okay? We're gonna slide the front end up. Same thing, there's the factory clip right up here to hold it in place, the bolt in place, we're gonna... Again, my peace of mind, I like to put a little bit of threadlocker on there just so that I know it ain't gonna come loose on me as I go down the road. We're gonna slide that up, slide the bolt through the bracket through our control arm and hand-tighten it in to our retainer clip.Okay, so we're gonna grab our 18-millimeter socket and our wrench. We're gonna start on the front side. We got the new control arm up in place held by the bolts, and we're gonna go ahead and tighten that down nice and snug. Same with the backside, we're gonna tighten it down nice and snug. Now, we're gonna grab our torque wrench, we're gonna set it to 130 foot-pounds of torque, and our 18-millimeter socket, and we're gonna torque down both of these to 130-foot-pound torque. Again, this is a little bit of a tight spot, so it might take you a few extra clicks to get it in place. Oh, there we go.Now, we're gonna do the front side. Okay, so we've got the backside torqued down, we're gonna go to the front. Same thing, we're gonna use our 18-millimeter socket and our torque wrench, and we're gonna go to 130-foot-pound torque. There we go. Okay, so we got our control arms installed, now remember, we have our emergency brake that was ran through the factory control arm because it had a hole cut into it, fortunately, these ones are solid and they're a lot more stouter, so we have to go underneath that control arm and come back up to put it into our retainer clip and back into its holder.So now that we've got our emergency brake cable back around the bottom side of our control arm, we need to put it back into its holder, replace our retainer clip to hold it into place, and now we need to put it back into the bracket so that the emergency brakes are active. Again, I'm gonna use my flathead screwdriver on this backside here. Give it leverage to push it up so I can slide that into place and make sure it's seated just right. Pull it up, seated into place, and there we go.Now, we've installed our passenger-side rear control arm on our Ford Mustang. We'll repeat the same steps. Going on the driver's side, control arm installed, we've torqued our bolts down to 130-foot-pound, we've brought our emergency cable underneath the control arm, we've pushed it back in the holder with the retainer clip and back into the kick brake so that is usable. We're gonna go ahead and take a zip tie... And the emergency brake cable is kind of hanging a little low. If you've got a lowered vehicle like mine, you don't wanna leave it dangling like that. So, you got this metal fitting right here, we're gonna suck it up on the inside of the control arm using a zip tie, and we're gonna use that kind of metal fitting right there so that we're not cinching down on the cable and causing it to be inactive. And this just cleans it up a little bit, makes it look a little bit nicer, and you don't cause any possible chafing or anything on the ground. And I'm not gonna cinch it as tight as I can, I'm just gonna cinch it so it's up and just kinda out of the way and looks a little good.Now that we have that cinched up, we need to grab our grease gun. Now, remember, we got our grease zerks, and we're gonna grease those, make sure those bushings are nice and greased. I, myself like to give it a probably good three, four pumps, make sure there's enough grease in there, okay? We're gonna go to the backside. Same thing, I'ma give it three, four pumps, make sure there's enough grease in there. And we're done, install completed.Jake: That's gonna wrap it up here for our review and install of the C&L Non-Adjustable Rear Lower Control Arms in Red, fitting 2005 to 2014 Mustangs. Thanks for watching, and remember, for all things Mustang, be sure to keep it right here at americanmuscle.com.
Reduces Wheel Hop to Improve Traction and Handling
Non-Adjustable Design
Fabricated Steel Construction
Red Powder Coated Finish
Greasable Black Polyurethane Bushings
Sold as a Pair
Fits 2005-2014 Ford Mustang Models
Description
Improve Traction and Handling. Everyone knows that if you can't hook up off the line you're going nowhere fast. That's why C&L Performance designed their Non-Adjustable Rear Lower Control Arms to increase traction for quicker launches with less wheel hop.
Heavy Duty Construction. C&L fabricates their Rear Lower Control Arms to precise specifications from heavy duty, boxed steel tubing for superior strength and extra rigidity. C&L then completes the Arms in a high-grade, gloss red powder coated finish for good looks and long-lasting corrosion resistance.
Polyurethane Bushings. These C&L Rear Lower Control Arms use greasable black polyurethane bushings on both the chassis and axle side, which are far superior to the factory rubber bushings. The result is great traction during straight-line acceleration and predictable grip during hard cornering.
Bolt-on Upgrade. C&L designed their Non-Adjustable Rear Lower Control Arms to be a straight forward bolt-on upgrade using the existing factory hardware. There's no cutting, welding or drilling required for installation.
Application. These C&L Non-Adjustable Rear Lower Control Arms; Red are designed to fit 2005-2014 Ford Mustang models.
Extended Warranty. AmericanMuscle/Turn5 Inc. is proud to offer an optional 12 month extended limited warranty to our customers that purchase an eligible product. The program administrator will replace the cost of the covered part of a period of 12 months after the manufacturers warranty elapses, or from the date of purchase if the manufacturer does not offer a warranty.
Coverage. A Covered Part has failed when it can no longer perform the function for which it was originally designed solely because of its condition and not because of the action or inaction of any non-covered parts. The benefits available under this Limited Warranty are strictly provided to you for the replacement of the Covered Part(s) which fails due to a defect.
Notification Sent Via Email. You will receive notification of your enrollment in the extended product warranty program via email within 24 hours of placing your order. Please save this email for possible future reference.
No Deductibles Required. There are no deductibles required for use of this extended product warranty. If your covered part fails within the extended warranty time frame, simply call the program administrator at 1-844-870-4881 for instructions before any repairs or replacements have begun. Additional contact details and instructions will be included in your confirmation email.
WARNING: Cancer and Reproductive Harm - 
