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Eibach Sport-System-Plus Suspension Kit (94-04 V8 Mustang Coupe, 99-04 Mustang V6 Convertible)

Item 404414
AmericanMuscle no longer carries the Eibach Sport-System-Plus Suspension Kit (94-04 V8 Mustang Coupe, 99-04 Mustang V6 Convertible). Please check out 2015-2022 Mustang Suspension Handling Kits for an updated selection.
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    Video Review & Installation

    Justin: The Eibach Sport-System-Plus suspension kit should appeal to the '94 to '04 V8 Coupe owners, along with the '99 to '04 V6 convertible owners out there, who are looking to completely change both the looks and the handling of their ride, thanks to a few key components from one of the most trusted names in suspension. Now, these components do include a set of front and rear sway bars, a set of non-adjustable dampers, and then finally, Eibach's very popular Sportline lowering springs, which are gonna offer a very aggressive drop, all for right around 1,200 bucks. Now, the site does call this a soft three out of three wrenches on the difficulty meter, which I feel is a bit extreme, but nevertheless, hang out till the end of the video, and we'll show you how it's done.Now, first things first, guys, I do wanna start with the drop here, because this particular kit is certainly going to cater to those owners who prefer more of that slammed look. In fact, you're getting a 2-inch drop for the front here, thanks to the Sportline spring, along with a 1.8-inch drop for the rear. So, if that's a little too low for you in your ride, then you can check out Eibach's Pro-System-Plus kit as well, which is simply just gonna replace the Sportline springs in this package with the Pro kit springs and reduce that drop a little bit. And by the way, of course, you can find that here on the site for a very similar price as this kit. But getting back to the Sportline lowering springs here, guys, and they are gonna feature a progressive spring rate, which is always a nice thing to point out for street cars out there, because they're gonna balance comfort and performance, thanks to the softer initial rates, which will be a little bit more comfortable while cruising. But then once you start rolling over onto these things a little bit more, they start firming up and giving you a bit more performance.Now, specifically, you're gonna be looking at a starting rate of 550 pounds for the front springs and 251 pounds for the rears. Now, along with improved roll control, you're also gonna be seeing subtle improvements in things like weight transfer, front to back, back to front, basically less brake dive when you're hammering on those brakes, and less squat when you're accelerating hard. And finally, guys, just flatter in turns, reduced body roll, things like that, all around performance improvement when going this hard on your suspension. But one thing I do enjoy about these complete kits from Eibach is that in this case, they paired up their Sportline springs with their Pro-Damper shocks here, basically making this a complete turnkey system. The reality is, guys, throwing this aggressive of a spring on your high mileage factory dampers is really only asking for a bad time, including the rough ride and accelerating the wear and tear on those factory dampers, possibly even blowing them out.Now, Eibach definitely recognize this, and, as such, completed the Sport-System-Plus with their Pro-Dampers. So, we've covered the Sportline lowering springs with this kit. We even talked about the non-adjustable Pro-Dampers from Eibach. Last but not least, let's talk a little bit more about these sway bars, because, in my opinion, it just pulls the whole system together and really offers a nice increase in handling performance. Now, you're gonna be looking at a non-adjustable bar up front here, along with a two-way adjustable bar in the back, and basically, just huge improvements over the factory bar that you are replacing.Now, specifically, you're gonna be looking at a 35-millimeter tubular front bar, along with the 25-millimeter solid rear bar here. And that tubular front construction is nice because it's gonna save you a little bit of weight compared to some of those heavier solid options, but without really compromising any stiffness or strength. Now, by upgrading both the front and rear bars together, the car will feel more responsive overall, certainly be flatter in turns thanks to that reduced body roll. But at the same time, depending on how you set the bars up, should help rotate the car through the turns a little bit better than before. Now, this should be a welcome change because in the factory form, these cars tend to have the slightest bit of understeer, meaning the car just wants to push or plow through those turns. With these bigger bars in place from Eibach, the car will certainly experience a more neutral balance, if you will, and maybe a little bit more oversteer, depending on how you set that rear bar up.Ultimately, the sway bars working with the Sportline springs in the damper should make the car feel like a completely different animal on the street, especially when you really start throwing it around in turns. Now, these Eibach sway bars have been made right here in the USA from cold-formed, high strength aircraft grade steel before being finished off in this bright red powder coat to help prevent any corrosion over the years. Now, Eibach does toss in a lot of nice little extras with this system, including your jounce bumpers, dust shields, greasable polyurethane bushings, and rear sway bar links. However, they do not include any front end links in addition to new spring isolators, which, by the way, I highly recommend picking up with this kit, because chances are the factory isolators on your SN are probably pretty trashed. But what do you say we get into the installation? And again, guys, the site does go soft three out of three wrenches on the difficulty meter here. But to give you a better idea of what's really involved for this job, here is a detailed walkthrough, along with a tool breakdown.Man: Tools required for this installation are going to be a 1/2-inch drive, 3/8, as well as a 1/4, various extensions, sockets ranging from 8 millimeters all the way up to 24. Also, an E8 E-bit socket, wrenches ranging from 10 millimeters up to 15, as well as a 9/16, push pin removal tool or a flathead is very helpful, pry bar, a caliper hanger. Optional tools will be an impact, air ratchet, and this 1/2-inch air impact, and also a pry bar.All right, so we're gonna start off in the back, and we need access to our trunk, and we're gonna remove a few trim pieces in here, the sides, to get access to the top of our shock. But right here on this trim piece, there are four push pins. I have a push pin removal tool. If you don't have one, you can use a flathead screwdriver. So, let's remove all four of these. Again, they're push pins, like a Christmas tree type. There's two on each side of that hinge plate. Just lift that piece out of the way. And then on the back side of your trunk, you're gonna see two plastic screws. You can use a flathead. There is a little slot right there for it. We're just gonna spin it off with our finger. These are just like plastic nut type deal. Just like that. All right. Now, with those two nuts and four push pins removed, we are going to get this panel out of the way, set it off to the side. So, we're also going to remove the two side panels that cover our shock towers in the rear. These will just slide out of the way, just off to the side there. And that will expose the nut for the top of our shock. Do that on both sides. All right, so I have my air ratchet right here. It's a 3/8 drive with a deep 15-millimeter socket. We are going to loosen up and remove the nuts on top of our shock. We'll do that on both sides. And now when we lift the vehicle in the air, those shocks will drop out. All right. Now, we're gonna go ahead and get our wheels and tires off.All right, so one of our first steps in the uninstall process is to get this quad shock out of the way. So, if you have a GT or a convertible version, you will have this quad shock here. I have an 18-millimeter socket. I'm just gonna remove that nut and take the quad shock off of that stud. Just pull it like that and let it sit. Do that on both sides. All right, so since we already removed the nut on the top of our shock, what we're after now is the bolt here. It's a 15-millimeter head and an 18-millimeter nut on the back side. So, I'm just gonna pull the bolt and then get the shock out of the way. Do that on both sides as well. All right, so now we're going to remove our rear sway bar. First, we're gonna get this wheel speed sensor out of the way and off of this bracket here. And then we're going to use a 14-millimeter socket to remove the two bolts on this side and the two bolts on the other. Then the sway bar will just slide out of the way.So, as you see on this bolt right here, you're gonna have a parking brake bracket, and you're just gonna slide that out of the way. We'll reattach that when we put our new sway bar in. Now I'm gonna get the last two bolts out and slide this sway bar out of the way. All right, so you can see that I have two pole jacks supporting the entire weight of my rear end. I'm going to get the last bolt that holds in my sway bar out of the way. And you can see these handles are facing straight back, so hopefully, this sway bar will land on there. There is a little bit of weight, so if you have a friend to help you out, I highly recommend you grab them. Now, I'm gonna give one hand to the bar and one hand to my impact, and get this bolt out of here. There's that side. And I'm gonna pull this bolt, and there is our factory sway bar out of the way. So, minus your upper and lower control arms, those are the only things that are attaching your rear axle to the body of the Mustang.So now, I'm going to lower my jack stands evenly, both at the same time, and then I'm going to lower one side a little lower than the other so I can angle it and get that spring out of there. So, as you can see, there's no tension on that, but there is on this. And if I pull on this side of the axle, I can get that spring out. So, I'm gonna lower down even more to get some more travel out of it, just like that. And now I can get my spring out of there. All right, so we are just in front and above the rear end. There are three 8-millimeter bolts holding this snubber nose right here, and we're going to remove it and replace this rubber piece right here. So, again, this is an 8-mil. I've got it on my 1/4-inch drive. I'm just gonna remove these three screws. All right. Now, we're going to replace our snubber with this much smaller one. We are going to use a 1/2-inch impact for this. Change my socket up to a 14-mil. Tighten this up.All right, so now we're gonna start with our install on the rear. First, with the our snubber back here. These are those 8-millimeter bolts we pulled out just a little earlier. Definitely wanna try to start these by hand before you get in there with your tool, to make it a little easier. All right, so I have a little tip for you when installing your rear springs. You can see that there is some tape right here. That is actually from the factory. So, the factory does this as well. And what we're gonna do is we're gonna make sure that we have the right orientation. You can see where our stock spring sat before. We're gonna make sure that the Eibach spring sits in the same spot, and we're going to tape that in place. So, when we are maneuvering this thing into place, the top isolator does not rattle off or jump off, as they are known to do. So, I'm just gonna put some electrical tape on here. Won't have to worry about this thing rotting out or causing any extra noise underneath there. So, do this on both sides and then we'll get these installed.All right. These Eibach springs are gonna be really nice and easy to get into, because we are dropping the rear about two inches. So, we're gonna make sure that that rubber isolator on the bottom is there as well. Then I'm going to put a little tension to make sure this spring does not pop out. Again, make sure that it is seated correctly on that bottom isolator, and that the top is sitting square on that. Just going to tighten up this distance here, and then get the other spring in. All right, so what we're gonna do next is get our sway bar into place. I'm gonna bring a buddy in here in a second to get one of our bolts started. I'm gonna put the other bolt in the other side. So, let's get this into place, and then he should be able to put the bolt through now. All right. There's that one. Let me get this side in, and then I will get another bolt on this side just to hold it up.All right, so what we're gonna do now is put the nuts onto the bolts securing our sway bar to our lower control arm. Now, you do have to thread these on through the back side of it. So, I just used a wrench to hold my nut, and then I used an impact on the other side to tighten up our bolt. Now, for the one towards the rear, I'm going to pull it out, bring my parking brake cable back in, lift up on it, and get my new bolt through that hole and into our new sway bar. Just run that bolt in a little bit. Now, I'm going to get another nut on my wrench and bring that close to my bolt. All right, now we're gonna do that on both sides. All right, so let's install our rear shocks. You can see that we have our dust boot on there, as well as our bump stop and lower portion of our rubber isolators. I have the other rubber isolators in the trunk ready to install when we get the vehicle back on the ground. But let's guide these things up into our body mount there, and we are going to reuse our factory hardware on the bottom. Use that 15-millimeter bolt with an 18-millimeter nut on the back side.All right, so with our shock in place, let's go ahead and tighten up this hardware. All right, so now we're gonna get our quad shock back into place. We're just gonna slip it right over that stud. Make sure that bushing goes back into place. These are the 18-millimeter nuts we took off in the first clip. All right, so there are a few different ways that you can get the top of your shock tightened up. You can put the wheels back on and lower the car back onto the ground. That is going to push the shock back up into the body mount. I'm not gonna do it that way. I have the vehicle lowered down to the ground, a jack right underneath the center of the differential, and I'm going to jack up on it, and watch what happens to the top of the shock here. Make sure you have enough threads to work with, and that you're not pushing the car off the lift or jack stands. And then we're going to put our rubber isolator, then the top of it right over that stud, and then we're gonna start our nut on top of that.All right, so the nuts for the top of our shock are going to be a 9/16, and I'm going to use my air ratchet to tighten those down. And that's exactly what you want right there, that rubber isolator, nice and squished. All right, so moving onto the front, you can see that I have both my wheels and tires off. I've already disconnected the sway bar end link on the driver's side. So, I'm gonna do the same on the passenger's side here. It's a 15-millimeter nut. So, let's get this nut off and this bushing as well. If that doesn't come off, it's fine. You can usually hit it up, hit the sway bar up, and both those bushings will pop. So next, we're gonna get both of our end links out of here, as well as our sway bar, because our kit comes with new end links, sway bar, and bushings.All right, so now we're gonna remove our sway bar end links. Again, I have that 15-mil deep socket on my air ratchet, and then I have a 10-millimeter wrench on the shaft of the end link, just to keep it from spinning. Just start this nut and pull that end link out of here. Remove that on both sides. All right, now we're going to remove our sway bar. You can see this is our mounting point with our bushing in there. These are 16-millimeter nuts. There are two on each side, and this plastic piece right here, we're actually gonna snake it through. So, I'm going to buzz these off. Hoping that plastic is going to keep it up while I remove the other side. All right, now I'm going to snake this out of here.So, there are some push pins that we can remove on the inside here. Let me get my tool real quick. Get this inner fender. All right. So, there's that push pin, it's a Christmas tree type clip. We are going to slide our sway bar out of the way. All right, so what we're gonna do now is remove our caliper and rotor. First, starting with our caliper, we're gonna take the whole unit off. So, we're after these two 15-millimeter bolts on the back side. Let's get a breaker bar on here first. Make sure that we can loosen them up. All right. I'm gonna get my air ratchet in here. And just to get ready, I have my caliper hanger right there. I'll keep that where my body bolt is. Where is this guy? All right, now we're gonna hang this caliper out of the way.All right, so next up, we're gonna remove our rotor. If you haven't replaced your brakes or removed your rotor yet, you may still have these factory locking washers. Our '99 only has about 40,000 miles on it, so these are the original brakes. And we're going to remove these little metal washers, the lock tabs that hold your rotor onto the hub itself. So, you don't need to replace these or put them back on. We'll show you a trick when I reinstall the wheel, how to get your rotor to stay in place. But I just bend it so it's a misshape and then just spin it off. And now we can pull our rotor off.All right, so what we're gonna do next is remove our wheel speed sensor, or our ABS sensor right here, and we need an E8 E-bit. So, it's like an inverted Torx, and I have this on my 1/4-inch drive, so I'm just going to loosen this up and remove it, because we've gotta separate our spindle from our strut here in a second, and we don't want to cause any unnecessary stress on this wheel speed sensor, because they aren't cheap. All right, so that's out. Then I'm going to take a push pin removal tool and go up this line, removing any of the push pins. All right, so let's remove that wheel speed sensor. I'm just gonna push it in the front and pull it in the back as well at the same time, as this has not been removed since new. There's a lot of road grime on that. All right. So, that's out. Then I'm gonna take my push pin removal tool and get this loom out of the way. And then lift up on these and just get that out of the way. Again, this is a magnet, so you can just stick it to a body part and it'll be out of the way.All right, so our next step is to remove this one 24-millimeter nut holding this little brake line bracket in place. So, just spin this off. We are going to attach that again later. And then we're going to lower the vehicle down to the ground so we can get a jack on the lower control arm, and then we're going to remove the two nut and bolts holding our strut assembly to our spindle, and what that'll do is release the tension on that pocket spring. So, we can lower the jack, get that spring out, and get our strut out all at the same time. All right, so as you can see, I have a jack directly under my lower control arm. The vehicle is pretty low to the ground, and what I'm going to do is now jack up on my jack and take up some of that tension on my pocket spring.Now I can remove the nut and bolt on my lower strut assembly. I'm gonna need a 21-millimeter socket for my bolt head on this side, and then a 24-millimeter socket for my nut side. Let's go ahead and get our tools in place here. All right, there's the first nut. And let's get the second one out of here. Second nut. I'm gonna try to pull one of these bolts out. All right. There's one, there's two. Then I'm going to let my spindle just hang out here. And you see my strut is free now. Now I can lower my jack slowly and have this pocket spring come out. But first, I'm going to remove my strut so I have some more room to play with. All right, now we're going to remove our strut. We'll start off by removing these nuts. These are 15-millimeter. Now I'm going to hold onto my strut, take out this last bolt. Just gonna grab that, and remove your strut. All right, so now I'm going to release the tension on my jack. And watch what happens to my pocket spring. It's gonna wanna fall out of there. So, I may need a pry bar to help get it out. That's what we're gonna do now. All right, so there may still be a little bit of tension on this spring, so just be very careful and wary of that. And there it goes.All right, so before we can start installing our new parts onto our Mustang, we have to swap a couple things over, including our sway bar bushing brackets. Now, these don't require any tools, they just require a little bit of muscle. But what I like to do is just slip into the side, slip that bracket out. Then you can just hit that bracket off. Then what we're going to do is put the bushing around our sway bar, bring our bracket over and onto that bushing. Do that on both sides. Make sure the bushing goes on there nice and square, then you can lock it down with this. All right, now we're going to move on to our struts. All right, moving on to our struts, we have to remove our top hat and move that over to our new Eibach unit. So, I have a 21-millimeter socket on my 1/2-inch impact, and I'm going to hope this nut just buzzes off the top. If not, it is slotted on the top for a flathead screwdriver, but sometimes this will work. It's almost there. And there's the nut.So, I'm going to take this bushing out of here, as well as the top hat itself. Now, I wanna make sure it is installed all in the same direction. So, we're actually gonna keep this dust boot as well. All right, so now we're gonna assemble our new strut. Dust boot first, followed by our top hat and bushing, cap, then our 24-millimeter nut. All right, so for our install, what we're gonna do first is put our pocket spring back into our lower control arm and in our body mount. I am first going to take this lower isolator out of here, off our stock spring, and transfer it over to our new Eibach. Now, this is rusted on there, so bear with me a second. All right. And you can see the height difference on these. That's where you're gonna get your about 2-inch drop in the front. Just go ahead and slip this on just until you see that coil. And this is the bottom side. So, let's lower the control arm here. I may need to get my pry bar out, hook it onto my lower control arm here, just behind my brake dust shield here. All right, so there you have it. The spring is sitting in the pocket. Now I'm gonna get the jack back underneath the control arm, jack up on my control arm, and get my strut into place.All right, so now we're going to install our new strut assembly. Those studs, again, are going to go towards the inside of the body here. I'm going to put those nuts on first, followed by that one bolt. I'm gonna get my 15-millimeter and tighten those up. All right, so as you can see, I have my jack positioned right under my control arm and I'm going to jack this up and get my spindle to line up with my strut. But I wanted to show you these little shims that Eibach included with this kit. This bottom of the strut is a little bit wider than your factory strut, so they do include these to make up that difference. Let's go ahead and jack up on this control arm, get the right position of my spindle. Make sure my bolt holes are lining up, right about there. Now, I'm going to slip one or two of these shims into place while getting my bolt in there as well. It's gonna be a little tough to see on camera. There's the top, and bottom one is started. Now, I'm going to slip my forward shim in. So, here's the second shim. You can shimmy the strut, get that into place. And you can also use a flathead screwdriver. All right, so there's that top, that top bolt made it through. Just gonna make sure the bottom one can. Just gonna kick it out a little bit, and there's the bottom one. Let's go ahead and put our 24-millimeter nuts back on there. All right. Then we're going to tighten these up with my 1/2-inch impact, 24 on the nut side, and a 21 on the bolt side.All right, so what we're gonna do now is install our sway bar. Again, you're gonna have to snake this into place. This other side up and in first. Start a couple of your nuts. You're gonna wanna make sure both of your brackets are through those bolt holes. All right, let's tighten those up with our 16-millimeter socket. All right, what we're gonna do now is go ahead and install our end links to our lower control arm, and our sway bar itself. Now, this is a one-piece design, so we're gonna remove, completely remove all the top stuff. Go ahead and slip in the bottom, put that stuff back on, put the shaft on. Just swing this out of the way a little bit, because the other side is not connected. Put our bottom bushing on, and then go ahead and lower this. All right, so with your sway bar end link assembled, we're gonna top it off with the last top bushing and the cup, put our 9/16 nut on the top. And I'm going to put a wrench on the top and an impact on the bottom and go ahead and squish these bushings down. All right. That should be good right about there. All right, so we're gonna get our wheel speed sensor in now. This is gonna go in the same spot, with that E8 E-bit head bolt. All right. Make sure that's nice and tight, but not too tight, because that is a plastic sensor.All right, let's go ahead and get this bracket on. And you can't mess these up, because they are labeled right hand and left hand. These slip over the rest of the threads showing on your spindle bolts, and this low profile 24-millimeter nut will go on to that. Go ahead and tighten that up, then we can slip our wheel speed sensor line back onto that and put our bracket back in like that. All right, now we're gonna reassemble our brakes, starting with our rotor. We'll slip that right on, and then we're gonna grab our caliper. Get that bracket off there. Make sure our rotor is nice and squarely on there, slide our caliper pads over. Grab your two 15-millimeter bolts. Go ahead and start these. Then I have my impact, my air ratchet here. Then I'll do my final tighten with my regular ratchet wrench. All right, so that's gonna wrap up the passenger's side. Repeat all those steps on the driver's side to complete that install. Don't forget to tighten down your lug nuts and get an alignment.All right, that's gonna wrap up my install. And for all things Mustang, keep it here at

    Product Information

    Features, Description, Reviews, Q&A, Specs & Installation


    • Corrects Factory Rake for Improved Stance
    • Lowers Your Mustang for Enhanced Center of Gravity
    • Pro-Damper Shocks and Struts
    • Multi-Rate Coil Springs
    • 35mm Tubular Front Sway Bar with Bushings
    • 25mm Solid Rear Sway Bar
    • Estimated Drop: 2.0 Inch Front; 1.8 Inch Rear
    • No-Welding Installation
    • Million-Mile Warranty Coverage
    • Fits All 1994-2004 Ford Mustang V8 Coupe Models, V6 Convertible Models


    Improved Center of Gravity. Experience greatly enhanced handling at every speed with the Eibach Sport-System-Plus. This Kit has been designed to lower the front of your Mustang by 2 inches and its rear by 1.8 inches. This results in faster cornering, reduced body roll, and better braking. With this suspension kit on your Pony, you can take advantage of Eibach’s renowned Sportline Springs, Pro-Damper Shocks, and Struts, and Anti-Roll-Kit Sway Bars that greatly enhances your car’s handling and performance on the street or on the track.

    Superb Struts and Shocks. Your Mustang will be equipped with two front struts and two rear shocks with this kit. These have been designed with multiple stage velocity sensitive valving, which means that at every speed your Mustang maintains maximum control and superb handling.

    Sportline Lowering Springs. This kit includes 4 Sportline lowering springs with progressive spring rates. This means you can lower your ride to a maximum allowable level without sacrificing its ride quality and drivability. These springs effectively lower your car’s center of gravity to allow you to feel the power when cornering and braking.

    No-Welding Installation. Eibach engineered this kit to be installed without welding required. It bolts directly into place of your Mustang's stock parts. It comes with all the necessary hardware for an installation process which takes about a day to complete.

    Million-Mile Warranty. Eibach covers this Sport-System-Plus lift kit with a million-mile warranty against defects in manufacturing or materials. This does not include damage caused by improper use, faulty installation, or abuse. Other limitations may apply.

    Application. This Eibach Sport-System-Plus is specifically designed to fit all 1994-2004 Ford Mustang V8 Coupe and V6 Convertible models.

    CA Residents: WARNING: Cancer and Reproductive Harm -

    Installation & What's in the Box

    Installation Info

    What's in the Box

    • (2) Front Struts
    • (2) Rear Shocks
    • (4) Sportline Lowering Springs - Progressive Rate
    • (1) 35mm Tubular Front Sway Bar with Bushings
    • (1) 25mm Solid Rear Sway Bar

    Customer Reviews (25)

      Questions & Answers

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