(approx) 2 Hours
Light to Moderate mechanical skill required.
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All right guys, this is going to be an easy one, right? The Hurst line lock and roll control kit should be for those avid drag racing fans or, hell, avid burnout fans out there who are looking to do more controlled burnouts with your Fox body or SN95 heating up those rear tires properly but without putting the added stress on your rear braking components like with a traditional brake stand. The install is going to get two out of three wrenches on the difficulty meter from me as there is a little bit of work involved with some brake lines, but we're going to touch more on that later on. With this kit installed you're going to be able to lock up those front wheels and tires of course while allowing the rears to spend freely. It's great for the burnout box at the drag strip or, again, if you're just participating in a random burnout competition. This is even a good thing to have for those manual or stick cars out there who do a lot of drag racing to help you stage the car, keep it stationary but without rolling through the staging lights. The price point's going to be right around 100 bucks for this thing, not that bad overall. Line locks are one of those things that have been around forever in the drag racing and hot rodding world. Hurst even claims theirs is the original line lock, and I have no reason to disagree with them. The sole purpose here, again, is to just do some more controlled burnouts, locking up those fronts, allowing those rears to rip, heating up the slicks or radials when making a pass at the drag strip. Along with that burnout awesomeness that oftentimes comes along with a line lock kit like this, you are getting some functionality as well for a staging purpose as the roll control name implies here. It's going to control the roll or lack thereof of cars staging, not rolling through those staging beams or lights, red lighting nullifying your run in the process. Again, this is probably a little bit more beneficial for those stick cars out there as opposed to the autos with the trans brake. Besides those big awesome smoky burnouts and of course that roll control benefit you're getting with the Hurst product, you're also getting the benefit of saving some added wear and tear on your rear braking components when doing a burnout. If you think about it, guys, anytime you do a big smoky burnout, what are you doing? You're riding those brakes, hammering down, overpowering your rear braking components, and at that point you're putting some added stresses on it. In fact, if you've ever watched a burnout competition you can see this, right? Guys that don't have a line lock, those rear brakes get so damn hot they sometimes can catch on fire. Obviously that's not a good thing. With the Hurst installed, you won't have to worry about that of course and you will be saving some added life to your rear brakes. How does this thing even work? Well, the solenoid from Hurts is going to tap into the front brake lines of your '79 to '04 Mustang. Once you depress that brake pedal and hold the included button, the front brakes will lock up but the rears are going to spin freely allowing you to do your burnout. As soon as you let go of that button the front brakes will release pressure, and at that point you can operate normally once again. As far as your construction, well, Hurst claims this is one of your only billet stainless steel bodied roll control units out there on the aftermarket. It has been tested up to 30 Gs of force before mechanical failure and does operate at one one-hundred-thousandth of a second for that button release. As soon as you're off that button, you are going. This thing does operate at four amps. It is fused. It does feature eight inch inlets and outlets along with an additional port here that can be used for an extra bleeder or maybe a brake pressure valve. It is cleanable, it is rebuildable on the fly if you need to, and it does also include a bracket for mounting purposes. If I can make one suggestion, mount this thing a little closer to your master cylinder. It will certainly save you when it comes time for the install as you won't have to get too crazy or custom with your brake lines.As far as that installation is concerned, I did go two out of three wrenches on the difficulty meter here with this particular install because of the brake work and the bleeding of the brakes and maybe a couple of hours from start to finish in the garage or shop before you're all wrapped up. In addition to that brake work of course there is some wiring involved as well, so factor that in, guys. Make sure you have the necessary tools there - a soldering iron, butt connectors, whatever you prefer. Basically it's just power and ground stuff. You do have to run that switch inside the car itself. Some people like to leave it by the shifter. Others like to mount it to the steering wheel. That's totally your call. If I were to do this job, I'd recommend getting a small run of line that's already equipped with fittings that's already flared and ready to go. Just grab your line bender so you can make some small tweaks to the line itself. Again, if you mount this thing close to the master cylinder you're going to be better off because you won't have to make too many changes there. Just make sure you have a line bender on hand. It's probably not a bad idea to have some extra brake line and fittings on hand as well in addition to your flare tool and then finally a couple of open ended wrenches to get everything tightened up. Since you will be relieving pressure to your braking system here with disconnecting the lines, all that good stuff, just make sure you have a bleeder tool on hand and a buddy unless you have one of those fancy tools where you can do it yourself. Whatever the case, you will need to bleed the brakes on your Mustang before taking it out for a spin or a big smoky burnout. Speaking of those burnouts, whether you like to do them at the track to heat up those slicks or radials or you just like to do them for fun, you'll need the Hurst line lock in your life. You can grab one right here at AmericanMuscle.com.
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Fitment: 1987 1988 1989 1990 1991 1992 1993 1994 1995 1996 1997 1998 1999 2000 2001 2002 2003 2004 Details
CA Residents: WARNING: Cancer and Reproductive Harm - www.P65Warnings.ca.gov
(approx) 2 Hours
Light to Moderate mechanical skill required.
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