(approx) 2 Hours
Light to Moderate mechanical skill required.
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The Mishimoto Performance Intercooler, shown here in black, will be for the 2015 and newer EcoBoost Mustang owners who are looking to keep those charge temps down and performance up by going with one of the largest options available to fit in the factory location. Now, this particular option will feature the powder-coated black aluminum build for a stealthier appearance, all for right around that mid-$600 price point. Install, at least according to the site's gonna get a middle-of-the-road two out of three wrenches on the old difficulty meter, guys, and couple of hours or so to complete from start to finish, but if you hang with me for a bit, I'll walk you through this job later in the video.But what do you say we get into some of the finer details here with the Mishimoto option in regards to build, fitment, and benefit. And first up, guys, you are going to be replacing that small stock core and plastic intake factory setup with a 6061 aluminum TIG-welded intercooler, finished off in a very awesome stealth black finish. Now, just a heads up here, Mishi does also offer a silver option on the site, that can be had for roughly the same price. Now, the Mishi, by the way, is going to increase your finned surface area, basically, all of this right here, by roughly 163%, and will increase your internal core volume by roughly 58%.Now, all of this working together is gonna result in a 35-degree reduction of ambient intake air temperatures, but will also prove to be less prone to heat soak, like that factory stocker. And that's the big thing to keep in mind here. Because, ultimately, let's face it, the biggest killer of performance with the EcoBoost application in general, as you guys are probably well aware of, is heat. You make a few pulls, the car gets hot, the PCM starts pulling timing, and at that point, the EcoBoost feels kind of like a dog. So that's why upgrading your factory intercooler to something like this monster here is very important. And while it might not physically add power by itself, it will help keep the power you have from dropping off dramatically and preventing that heat soak.Now, just so you know, the Mishimoto is designed, again, to work in your factory location without having to modify anything, and will, again, be one of the largest to fit in this spot. Now, it will also work with your factory hot and cold side charge piping, but can also be used with Mishimoto's corresponding aftermarket piping later on down the road if you decide to switch things up. Finally, guys, the Mishimoto intercooler is backed by a limited lifetime warranty, is CARB-certified, and does not require the use of any tuning.But now let's shift gears and touch on the installation. And again, the site's gonna call this middle-of-the-road, two out of three wrenches on the difficulty meter here, guys, and about a two-hour job from start to finish. Now, a couple different ways to go about doing this. You can tackle it without dropping the front fascia or front bumper, however, you do have to kind of remove a few things to get it out of the way. I'm actually gonna show you the method with taking the bumper off, give you a little bit better access to viewing everything. So let's get out to the shop and do that right now.Tools I used for this installation include a 3/8 ratcheter gun, quarter-inch ratchet, small extension, 10-millimeter wrench, 10-millimeter socket, 8-millimeter socket, 7-millimeter socket, 5.5-millimeter socket, T25 Torx tool, panel removal tool, and a 2.5-millimeter Allen key.All right. Getting started here with our Mishimoto intercooler install today, guys. Now, Mishi is actually gonna point out that there are two methods to physically removing the stock unit and installing the new Mishi option. You can either remove your intake, remove the coolant reservoir, move your radiator out of the way. It's a lot of work that way, and honestly, it can get a little messy. Your other option is to remove the front bumper cover. Now, that's really not that difficult, as we're about to show you, and that is the method that we are gonna be using here today. So, to get started, we're gonna pop off our radiator cover first. There are eight push pins that we're gonna remove now with our panel removal tool.With our e-clips removed, we can now remove the radiator cover right now. Now, before we get the car in the air, we're gonna knock out these 8-millimeter bolts here securing the top portion of the bumper to the frame. With the 8-mills out of the way, there are two 5.5-millimeter screws right here on either side. So we'll remove those next. Now we need to remove the air dam here from the lower portion of the front bumper or front fascia. To do so, there are a number of 7-millimeter screws, and a couple of push pin fasteners as well, so we're gonna remove those next. Now, before we can totally drop our air dam, there are two more push pin fasteners here in the fender area that we have to remove next. And with that final clip out, the air dam splash shield here should slide on out.All right. Guys, we're just about to the point of pulling off the front bumper cover, but before we do, we still have a few more push pins to release here, and there is another 7-millimeter screw back behind the liner itself. So let's start off by removing these push pins. With those push pins removed, now we can kind of gently pry back on your inner fender liner here and expose this 10-millimeter nut. Now, you're gonna need to remove that in order to remove the bumper itself. Our bumper's been off a few times, so somebody loosened the nut for me already. All right, guys, since this is a 2018, they did change the bumper style a little bit here. There is a second 10-millimeter nut up there that we still need to remove. If you have a '15 through '17 car, then you'll only find one screw here, or nut, in the place. So, gonna remove the second 10-millimeter now.At this point, our bumper cover is essentially ready to come off, but before you just go yanking it off, you do have to keep in mind there are a few things plugged in, some lighting and sensors. So what you wanna do is carefully just kind of unseat the bumper from the bumper support, and at that point, either support it with your legs, grab a buddy, whatever, and then in that time, we're gonna go ahead and show you where you need to unplug. So, let's go ahead and release the bumper. Get it off the clips. And here's where we need to grab our wire stuff. Okay, depending on your year range, you might have a few more plugs to unplug. In our case, we just have this top one here for the fog light and turn signal. And repeat that process on the other side. With those plugs removed, we can now safely set aside the bumper, being careful not to scratch it. With the bumper completely off, now we can go ahead and remove our shutter system here. You're gonna be looking at four 8-millimeter screws, and then finally, two plastic clips up top here. We're gonna start off with the 8-millimeter screws or bolts.With our 8-millimeter bolts and two clips removed, now we can kind of pull this out, but before you start trying to remove it, there are two 5-millimeter bolts behind there that kind of secure the shutter operating arm, if you will, to the housing itself here, or the skeleton. So we're gonna remove those next. They're very hard to see because they're on the backside, and there's also an electrical connection that we have to disconnect there as well. So we'll do that next. All right. With those two 5.5-millimeter screws removed, you can disconnect the shutter arm. That's gonna give you even a little bit more room to pull. Connector is pretty simple. Find the tab, push, and disconnect.Last but not least, we're gonna come back to that temp sensor we just told you guys about, disconnect it, and that will allow you to get the shutter system around the sensor itself. With our shutter system unplugged, we're gonna come down to our ambient temperature sensor here. We just have to unplug this, and this will allow us to finally remove the shutter system from the front end. Just be careful when fishing it around the plastic.With our shutter system out of the way, now we can go ahead and remove this bottom mounting or supporting bracket for our factory intercooler. You have four 8-millimeter screws we have to remove, so we're gonna do that now. Now we're gonna start removing our factory intercooler by starting with this 10-millimeter bolt. With the 10-millimeter bolt removed, now we're gonna start working on removing our cold and hot side piping. First up is this bolt or clamp that's really hard to see back there. I'm trying to point it to you, guys. There we go. 7-millimeter head on that or a flathead screwdriver, whatever you have access to. We're gonna move that, or loosen that, next. And you just wanna loosen this up so we can slide the hose end off the stock intercooler.Now, over on the driver's side here, we're gonna loosen up this clamp, again using our 7-millimeter socket real quick. Next up, we're gonna remove our MAP sensor plug, get that out of the way. So this next step might not be necessary for everybody, but if you feel like the factory intercooler is fighting you, basically not being able to release it from the plastic clips, you may need to remove your radiator brackets on the top side here of the engine bay. Now, this is four 10-millimeter bolts, really doesn't take a whole lot of time, and basically, what that's gonna allow us to do is just lift up on the condenser and the radiator ever so slightly, to get it to clear that plastic lip, and at that point, we can pull the stocker out. Again, you might not need to do this. Sometimes there's a little bit more room in there, depending on your year, but in our case, we're gonna go ahead and remove these radiator brackets now and give us a little bit more room.Now, at this point, the radiator is basically just kind of hanging on by a thread. We are gonna remove our hot and cold side hosing, which is essentially the last thing holding this thing in place. With our hot and cold side piping now removed, we can go ahead and release this plastic clip right here. Again, the goal is to get this piece over that little ledge there. So, by loosening up those radiator brackets, it's gonna give us some play upwards, then we're just gonna push up and try to work it out of there. There we go.So, now that we have the stocker removed from the front of the car, we figured it'd be a great opportunity to throw it next to the Mishimoto option here, kind of compare the two, and show you some of the big differences. And first and foremost, guys, the most obvious difference, look at that difference in core size. You're getting more than 50% increase in core size here compared to your stocker. That's huge. Twenty-five percent more internal volume, and then lastly, over 150% more finned surface area. So, when all those factors kind of combine, that's gonna help reduce your intake air temperatures by roughly 35 degrees, and that's massive, right? Any time you can reduce the charge air temps or the intake air temperatures on a forced induction application like an EcoBoost, that's gonna keep performance up, keep detonation down, and just overall make for a better-performing vehicle.But outside of just the size difference, you're getting a much better-built unit here with the Mishimoto, 100% aluminum build, including the end tanks, fully TIG-welded. This thing's built like a tank. I mean, it's really, really solid. Compare that to the stocker here. I mean, this is really cheap core stuff, on top of the plastic end tanks, and obviously, you can see the big difference there in quality. Last but not least, we do have the powder-coated black finish here. You can also grab it in silver on the site if you like. Black's certainly gonna be a little bit more stealthy behind the bumper. I really dig it. And overall, guys, it's just a much better unit through and through. So, now that you know some of the big differences between the two, let's finish up a step or two and then get this guy in place.Now, before we can install our Mishimoto, we do need to transfer over our factory MAP sensor from the stock intercooler over to the new Mishi unit, so we're gonna use a T25 Torx tool right now to remove this first. Now, Mishi does include a brand-new 10-millimeter bolt that we will be using here on our Mishimoto option. They also include a brand-new O-ring just in case you damage your factory one in removal. With our MAP sensor transferred over, now we can work on installing our brand-new Mishimoto intercooler. Granted, this thing is a monster, but it will fit in the stock location. It might take you a little bit more finagling than it would with the stocker, but it will go into place. So, let's do it.With the intercooler up into place, now we're gonna go ahead and just reconnect our hot and cold side piping over here, and then once we get that in place, we can kind of work on getting this lip over into location there. That's gonna secure. And then when the...actually, Mishimoto does supply a little bolt to hook onto the backside of that to prevent the bottom from rocking. So first up, I'm just gonna work on our piping here and get that into place. And we're gonna get this one on as well. With both our hot and cold side piping in place, we're just gonna go ahead and tighten our clamps. And go ahead and tighten up this clamp as well.Our next step is gonna be to get this lip on both passenger and driver side over the plastic lip here, and then, again, we do have some hardware to secure it on the bottom. But your big goal at this step is to get this lip over there on both sides, to secure your intercooler in place. All right. There it goes. With that lip finally cleared, and our bottom bracket in place, Mishi does supply us with this little screw here. And what you wanna do is kind of get that under this lip, thread it into place, of course, and what this is gonna do is just basically prevent that bottom from swinging out. Now, it's very snug in there. I doubt it would move around much on you, but it's never bad to have insurance. Now, before we walk away from this side, we're gonna go ahead and plug in our MAP sensor here. We're good to go. Back on the passenger side here, we're just gonna go ahead and insert our 10-millimeter bolt and tighten it up.Now we're gonna begin the reassembly process, starting with the shutter system. Full disclosure, you don't have to install this if you don't want to. Matter of fact, it might actually open up some more airflow to the intercooler and radiator of your car, but for the purposes of this video, we are gonna show you how to completely restore the car back to its previous state. Now, on the backside of this, you will see there is a plug here that we have to remember to plug in, and this is gonna secure behind the bumper support, secured by the two 5-millimeter screws. So make sure that you plug that in first, which I'll show you right now, and then secure those two screws to lock everything in place.Let's start with this plug here. Sorry for the tough angle for you guys, but basically, just make sure you plug that in. Make sure our bracket is facing up. Get it into place. Our next step, again, will be to use these two 5-millimeter screws that we removed earlier to lock in the shutter system and secure the bracket. Going a little out of order here, guys, not the end of the world, but we also wanna make sure we don't forget to reinstall our bottom bracket for the intercooler. So, slide it behind the shroud. Now, this is side-specific, so just go ahead and make sure the arrows are pointing up, line up your holes, and secure it with the factory hardware.Next up, we're gonna secure the shutter system to the bumper support with the 8-millimeter factory bolts. With our four bolts in place, now we can grab these big fat push pins, and secure the top of the bracket. Before we move on to reinstalling our front bumper, we do have to reinstall our ambient air temperature sensor. So, it kind of clips into place up here. Don't forget to plug it in. Next up, we have to reinstall our four 10-millimeter bolts to secure the radiator brackets to the radiator support, and then we can go ahead and reinstall our front bumper. Now we can go ahead and reinstall our front bumper cover, guys, but, of course, you wanna make sure to plug in your turn signals and fog lights first before securing the bumper to the chassis. So let's go.With everything plugged in, let's go ahead and hang the front bumper on the tabs here. Now we can reinstall our bumper hardware, starting up top, before we tackle the sides. I like to do this just so the bumper doesn't come swinging off on you. Get them started by hand first. I'm coming back with my gun on low torque. Now we can go ahead and reinstall the sides here, making sure that Christmas tree clip is seated, and we get the studs in their correct location. Now we can go ahead and reinstall our two 10-millimeter nuts, to secure those studs to the side here, and repeat that process on the other side.Now, before we get the car up in the air and really finish the job underneath with the splash shield and all that good stuff, gonna go ahead and reinstall our rad cover now, with our factory push pins. Now we can go ahead and secure our inner fender liner there, with our two push pins we removed earlier, and then after that, repeat that process on the other side. Last but not least, guys, we have our lower splash shield, or air dam, here. We're gonna go ahead and re-secure that with our factory hardware and push pins next. And with that final screw tightened up, that's gonna wrap up our install of the Mishimoto Performance Intercooler here in black, available for your 2015 and your EcoBoost Mustang at home. Hey, guys, we hope you enjoyed this review and install. And keep in mind, for more cool products and videos like this, keep it right here at americanmuscle.com.
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Features, Description, Reviews, Q&A, Specs & Installation
CA Residents: WARNING: Cancer and Reproductive Harm - www.P65Warnings.ca.gov
(approx) 2 Hours
Light to Moderate mechanical skill required.
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