(approx) 3 Hours
Mechanical expertise or professional installation required.
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Hey, guys, Adam here with americanmuscle.com. Today, we're taking a closer look at and installing the Roush lowering springs for all '05 to '14 Mustangs. You should be taking a look at the Roush lowering springs if you're looking to go with a very mild lowered ride height, coming in and about a half inch all the way around compared to your factory ride. This will stiffen up your ride, giving you that lowered center of gravity, giving you a better handling performance going around tight corners for a nice sporty feel. Now, this progressive rate is going to compare it to your linear rate, which we'll talk about a little later on on the table sitting next year factory spring. Now, that $250 price tag, in my personal opinion, is a very affordable tag considering it is a very mild drop in ride height, but it will give you a different performance you can feel. The installation for a set of lowering springs, regardless of which ones you go with from the category, are going to get that soft three out of three wrenches on our difficulty meter here. Now, there's no cutting, drilling, or any modifications necessary, but it does require the use of a spring compressor, which can be pretty dangerous if you don't have that mechanical expertise. Now, you want to have a pole jack if you're using a lift like we are or a hydraulic floor jack if you're working on the floor in your garage or your driveway. Jack stands also come in handy because you are pulling off all four wheels. Now, the rear assembly all gets done at the exact same time. You'll be simultaneously working on both sides then the fronts you'll do individually and I'll walk you through the process step by step, even how to use the spring compressor. Now, it'll take you about three hours if you're working in the driveway at home, maybe a little bit less if you have a lift like we do here. Want to show you, again, step by step so, let's just get to it. Tools required for this install will be a cordless impact or a ratchet, extension, 19-millimeter wrench, 10-millimeter deep socket, 13-millimeter deep socket, 15-millimeter deep socket, 18-millimeter deep socket, 19-millimeter deep socket, and a torque wrench as well as a spring compressor. Before we can get to the install or even the uninstall, we have to pop all four of our wheels off. I've got my air tools here and my 21-millimeter socket. Now, if you're working on the ground, you might want to have your lug wrench or appropriate tools on deck. Make sure you're supported nicely on jack stands as well. Now, to kick things off for the uninstallation of our factory springs on our '06 GT in the rear here, we have to disconnect our rear axle so that we can decompress those springs and pull them out. In order to do that, what we're going to do is put our car up in the air and support the rear axle with our pole jacks. We'll put one pole jack under each spring on both sides under the rear axle. Now, if you're not working on a lift like we are, you might be working on the ground in your driveway, in which case, a regular hydraulic jack, hydraulic floor jack will do the trick. You can stick that right under the differential or the pumpkin and just support that weight by jacking it up a little bit. Once we disconnect the bottom bolt of our shock and the brackets of our sway bar on both sides, we'll be able to slowly lower down our pole jacks holding up that rear axle in order to decompress those springs. Again, if you're not on the lift and you're working with a hydraulic floor jack, you'll just slowly lower that jack down to decompress the springs. Now, that's something you want to be very cautious about but we'll get to that in just a little bit. First things first, we're going to put this up in the air a little more, put those pole jacks under the rear axle, and start getting to work. The first thing we're going to do here is disconnected our sway bar from the bracket holding it to the chassis here. We've got our 19-millimeter socket and wrench. We're going to put the gun on one side of the bolt and the wrench on the other and just pull this out. Now, we're going to have to repeat the same process for the opposite side. You want to make sure you're duplicating everything you're doing on each side, dropping the sway bar out of the way and then we'll move over to the shock bolt. You can bend those brackets down and lower your sway bar. Now, the reason we had to drop the sway bar out of the way, number one, is because that is one of the factors holding up your rear axle, but also number two, we want to do that first because it is blocking that bolt head. If the sway bar was back up in its original position, we wouldn't be able to back our lower shock bolt out. So now that we have that dropped down, we have access to that bolt. I've got my 15-millimeter socket. We don't need a wrench holding the nut on the other side because it's got this locking tab. Now, if this is torqued down here too tight, you could, of course, use WD-40 to help you out or a breaker bar, that'll definitely knock that loose and then you can grab your impact gun or your ratchet and get it off. With that bolt out of place, you can see the shock comes loose. We'll be able to repeat this for the other side and then start lowering down our pole jack or if you're working on the ground, your hydraulic floor jack, and decompress our spring. Now we're repeating that for the other side. All right. At this point, you want to lower your jack down very slowly to decompress that spring. You don't want to go too fast because it's under a lot of pressure so you want to be cautious about lowering this down. All right. Now, that are springs are fully decompressed, we might need a little help getting them out, so I've got my pry bar here. We're just going to gently pry it out of its seat and then pull the spring off of the axle. We'll do the same thing for both sides. Now if it's not stuck for you, you might be able to wiggle it by hand, but given that they are factory springs, they've been on there for several years, a little over a decade actually, so they might be stuck. It tends to happen with OEM parts like that. You might need a little bit of help here. A pry bar definitely will do the trick, just have a little patience.Now that we have the rears all the way uninstalled, before we start installing anything, we want to tackle the uninstallation for the front here. Now, it'll start off the same way, we've got our pole jack here underneath of our front hub assembly supporting that weight. That way, we'll be able to disconnect our sway bar end link from the strut and then the two bolts at the bottom of the strut holding it to our spindle. Once that's taken care of, it'll release all the weight which is why we want that pole jack supporting the hub. We'll be able to go underneath the hood once you put the car on the ground and remove the four bolts holding it to the top of our strut tower and then we'll get to work with our spring compressor. But first things first, let's support the weight with our pole jack and then move on to the sway bar end link. Next step here, we've got our 18-millimeter deep socket, we're going to remove the nut here holding on our sway bar end link. All right. Again, with our 18-millimeter socket, we're going to knock off the bolts holding our strut to the spindle. All right. Now, we're gonna do the same thing for the bottom bolt. Since the bottom bolt is torqued on pretty tight, I'm going to use a breaker bar to help give us some leverage to break that loose and then we'll switch back to our cordless impact. So, I've got my 18-millimeter socket on the breaker bar. So let's get that off.All right. The last one here is the brake line bracket. All right. Same thing for the opposite side here before we lower it down and tackle the top of our strut tower. We've got our 18-millimeter socket, we're going to take off the sway bar end link from the strut, we're going to knock off the brake line bracket bolt, then, of course, the two holding the strut to the spindle. All right. Now, we can lower our Mustang back down and remove the bolts holding it on from the top of the strut tower under the hood. All right. Now that we have this down and we have the hood popped, what we're gonna do is remove all four bolts off the top of our strut tower to release that coilover. Now, we do have a strut tower brace on our GT here. If you don't have a strut tower brace, you don't have to worry about it. But either way, it's using the same exact bolts so, either way, those bolts are coming out. So, I've got my 13-millimeter socket. I'm going to pop these four off. Keep in mind that once you get down to the last nut on the stud, the strut is going to fall out from the bottom. So, we do have one hand underneath, you can hold on to the spring. Once you get that last nut out, just pull the strut out from under the wheel well. All right. So now that we have those two off, we can lift off our strut tower brace. So, we finally got our factory struts off of the front end of our '06 GT. We're back here at our spring compressor. Now, if you're working with a spring compressor at home or you take it to a shop, just make sure you're exercising extreme caution. This can be pretty dangerous. So, what we're going to do is we have this set up in our spring compressor rigged to the wall here. When you're doing this, make sure you're clamping down on the bottom coil and the top coil, compress the spring as far down as you need to, remove that top hat, and then slowly decompress the spring all the way back up. Once we have our new spring in place, we'll be able to put the top hat back on and do the same thing for the other strut. So, we finally got our factory springs off of our 2006 GT sitting on the table next to our Roush lowering springs. Now, there really isn't a ton of talk about when it comes to lowering springs. The materials stay pretty consistent throughout the category, whether it's compared to factory or some of the aftermarket options. You're looking at high-tensile silicon steel wire, but this one here has that progressive spring rate. Now, progressive as opposed to the linear spring rate from the factory or some of the other options in the category, progressive there is going to start at a low spring rate, give you a nice, comfortable ride feel just cruising around under normal driving conditions, but the second you start pushing it to its limits, the spring rate starts to grow and it gives you a stiffer, more sporty feel to your suspension. That's what you can expect from a progressive spring like the Roush lowering springs. The linear spring, on the other hand, gives you a very consistent spring rate, something you can predict, a lot better for guys who are constantly tracking their car, who want that linear and consistent spring rate. Whereas, the progressive option's great for guys with weekend warriors, seeing the track occasionally, but also driving a daily driver or something on the road more often. This is something you'd want for a more comfortable feel on a normal day, but something that gives you that stiffer feeling when you're taking those tight corners or under hard launches. Now, this one, on top of, you know, those tech specs, you're looking at a blue powder coated finish, which does look a lot cooler than your factory ones. But, I will say, since it is under your suspension, don't plan on seeing this very often. Now, getting these on the car is basically going to be the same process in the reverse order. So, we're going to pop our front springs here on to our factory strut, compress it in our spring compressor, then we're going to put on that top hat, repeat that for the same strut on the opposite side. The rear springs are pretty self-explanatory, no extra work needed, no spring compressor. It is going to seat right in our factory spot with the factory isolators. Now, if your isolators are, you know, mangled out of the factory spot, now, you want to pick up some new ones. We are going to have to transfer over our isolator sleeve here from the factory spring over to the Roush option. All right. So, we can tip our factory strings off to the side and peel off that sleeve. We're going to go to the bottom of our Roush spring and just install these in the same spot. Now, in order to make sure that your ride is sitting properly, you want to transfer over these sleeves which just slide on just like they come off of the factory ones. It's very simple to slide over. You want to make sure you're leaving a little bit of a gap for the end of that coil. Now, we're about ready to head back over to the spring compressor, sit this on our factory strut, cap it off with the top hat after we compress it, and then we'll start with the installation. Now, we're going to enter this into the arms, make sure you've got that seated properly. Once we have these seated properly, we'll slide our factory strut through the center here, cap it off with the top hat. So, it's time to install our new Roush lowering springs on the rear end of our '06 GT. Putting these in, it's pretty simple. You want to make sure that the cone shape is facing up, the smaller down to the larger portion. The end of the coil at the bottom here is going to be on the front side of the vehicle section facing the middle of the differential. So, what we're going to do is slide this into place here, rotate it so that this coil is at the front facing the inside of the vehicle. All right. Now, we can lift up the pole jacks on both sides to compress our springs. You want to make sure you're lining your shock up into its factory holes here on the axle when you're compressing that spring. Remember, the nut for your shock has this little tab here so that will lock into place. You just want to tighten the bolt on just a couple of threads then you can grab your socket and your impact gun or your ratchet and tighten that down. All right. Once we're done the other one, we'll come back and torque this down with our torque wrench. Wing up our rear sway bar, and you want to make sure you're putting those brackets back into the appropriate holes on both sides. You're going to have to line them up on both sides before you can bolt it down, otherwise, it won't line up. All right. So, once you have that in place, you're going to take your bolt head and spacer, put that through the outside then a spacer and your nut on the inside. Put the bolt through the other side of the sway bar and then tighten them down. All right. Now, we can tighten them all down with our socket and then go back to our shock bolt and our sway bar bolts with the torque wrench. All right. Now, remember, for this, you need your 19-millimeter wrench holding the nut on the backside while you work the socket on the bolt head. All right. So now that we have our torque wrench set at 85 foot-pounds for the bottom shock bolt, we can torque it down. All right. Now, we can torque down our sway bar brackets to 52 foot-pounds with our torque wrench. With our rear lowering springs in place, all we have to do now is lower down our pole jacks and move on to the front. So, we got our Roush front springs on our front struts here so it's about time we put it back in our suspension assembly. We're gonna pop it through the strut tower and put the two bolts up top here under the hood for the outside of the vehicle, not the ones that would go on the strut tower brace because we don't want to put that on just yet. So, we'll slide this in place, put those two nuts on top of the studs just to hold this strut up. There we go. All right. We're gonna do the same thing for the opposite side. You want to line up your spindle with the bottom of your struts, the two open holes, put your bolt head through to hold it in place. All right. Now, we can do the brake line bracket. Next up here is our sway bar end link, we're going to swing this back up to our strut, pop that straight through that hole, thread the nut on just a little bit, grab your 18-millimeter socket, and tighten it down. All right. Now we can repeat that same process for the other side and then go back and torque everything down. All right. Now, the brake line bracket bolt. All right. And we'll finish things up on the driver side here with our sway bar end link. Now, we're going to swing this up, position that so it slides through the hole. You might have to drop it down a bit then cap it off with the nut. Now for the two spindle bolts for your strut, you want to make sure you're setting your torque wrench to 148 foot-pounds and then torque them down. We're gonna go back and torque down your sway bar end links to 85 foot-pounds. Now, before we can put our final two nuts on each side of our strut tower, we want to throw on our strut tower brace. So, this is going to go right on over. We're going to feed the strut studs through the holes of the strut tower brace, lining them up on both sides. All right. Now, all we have to do is throw our wheels and tires back on and we're good to go. Well, that's going to wrap up my review and install for the Roush lowering springs, fitting all '05 to '14 Mustangs. You can pick up the Roush springs right here at americanmuscle.com.
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Features, Description, Reviews, Q&A, Specs & Installation
Improved Ride Quality. Lower the suspension of your 2005-2014 Mustang GT or V6 series with a set of Roush Lowering Springs for improved track stability. Not only do they provide ride quality, they are also finely tuned to ensure an equilibrium with your Pony's integrated system.
Aggressive Muscle Car Stance. If you thought these Roush Coil Springs only provide improved ride quality, you're wrong. After installation, the front and rear lowers by 0.50 inches for an intimidating exterior look that's natural to a muscle car like yours.
Quality Construction. Roush Springs are engineered from high-tensile silicon steel wire, which offers top-notch strength to endure vigorous utility. It is then coated with a high-performance satin blue powder coat finish to provide corrosion resistance for product longevity.
Variable Spring Rate. To ensure your ride quality is not compromised regardless of track conditions, these springs have a progressive spring rate; you experience a low start rate, but if pushed to the limit, the spring rate shoots with continuous compressions to offer you a quality driving experience.
Clears Stock and Aftermarket Wheels and Tires. These Suspension Springs are designed to be compatible with the factory size wheels as well aftermarket upgraded wheel and tire kits.
Professional Installation Required. For reduced rubbing, you are urged to seek professional installation services. The process takes about 3-hours.
Application. Roush Lowering Springs are engineered to fit all 2005-2014 Mustang GT and V6 models.
CA Residents: WARNING: Cancer and Reproductive Harm - www.P65Warnings.ca.gov
(approx) 3 Hours
Mechanical expertise or professional installation required.
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